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RSTDdog

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Everything posted by RSTDdog

  1. Don't forget to replace your brake fluid when changing pads. As stated earlier, Clean the pistons before pushing them back in. A good trick is once the caliper is off the rotor, CAREFULLY apply some brake pedal to push the piston out just enough to see a clean spot. Then clean off the dirty part and push back in. Be sure your reservoir isn't over full or pushing the pistons back in will cause the fluid to run out the top of the reservoir. This only happens if you added brake fluid some point before the pad change. Since I change brake fluid at pad changes (or every two years), I remove the old fluid from the reservoir before pushing the pistons back in. Remove the rest of the old fluid after the pistons are pushed back in. Install pads and caliper. Fill with fresh fluid and keeping bleeding until it comes out clean. With respect to uneven wear, I just noticed when removing the rear wheel, the hole for front nut for the caliper bracket, where the caliper bracket is bolted to swing arm is slotted. I'm thinking after changing pads and installing the caliper it would be a good idea to loosen this nut, spin the wheel and hit the brakes several times to center the bracket/caliper on the rotor and retorque the nut. Probably should do this when ever you change tires too. RSTDdog
  2. In addtion to the body style change in 07 as Freebird mentioned, they have an updated interior as well. I like the 07 and newer interior better. More moderm and better materials. This change is across the Avalanche , Tahoe and Suburban for 07 and up. Look at an 07 before you decide. Fuel economy is somewhat improved as well, particularly on the models with the 5.3 with active cylinder shutdown. 18-20 highway which isn't too shabby for a vehicle that size. Not sure when that became available. RSTDdog
  3. But the RSTD already has Hard bags??
  4. Thanks. 453.00 with Shipping charges from YPS to my zip. Still 14.00 cheaper than Boats.net with Free SH. I am shock shopping as well. RSTDdog
  5. If there is fuel coming out of the overflow tube, there is too much fuel in the carburetor bowl, float (or floats) is not sealing. The seat for the needle valve has an oring around it. Even if there is no trash on the needle, if the oring for the seat (brass part) is bad, fuel can leak around the seat even when the float needle is seated. Keep in mind that Seafoam has alchohol in it. So does pump gas. I'm not sure if you literally run seafoam all the time or periodically. I am not a fan of continuously running solvents with alchohol through my carburetors. Bad enough its in the fuel. Alchohol and solvents will deteriorate the rubber parts with time. I personally prefer Marine Stabil or Startron since neither has alchohol and both contain additives to combat corrosion and fuel phase separation associated with ethanol. If draining and flushing the float bowls as suggested above doesn't fix it, I would go back in and have a close look at everything.Fuel leak is nothing to take lightly. RSTDdog
  6. Don't know about Partshark itself, but with Yamaha even if you order the old part number, it will automatically supercede and ship the new part number. The price you will be charged (old or new)will depend on the dealer or vendor selling the part. Is the Partshark price free shipping or plus shipping? Boats.net has it for 467.00 with free shipping. RSTDdog
  7. Yes, Going to take it all apart. Prepping for an up coming trip. Now need to decide on the shock. Wasn't really in the budget. Leaning towards the Hagon based on price and availability. Derrek
  8. Any updates or more miles. Have you rode two up with this shock yet? Curious any reason you picked the YSS over the Hagon seeing they are similar in price/design? Thanks, Derrek
  9. Thanks Rick. May be that's the ".1" in the 4.1" inches of suspension travel...... Out of curiosity, do the aftermarket shocks also have this looseness for lack of a better word in the top mount? I have never heard any unusal noises when operating the bike, except the typical groan if you bounce the bike stationary . Was going to skip the swing arm bearings for a while longer since that seems tight (no side slop), but see some grease build up on the frame around them. May just take it all apart and grease everything. After looking closer it seems there is also some slop though not nearly as bad in the large dog bone joint too, more so where it pivots at the frame. Bottom shock mount and Level arms (links) seem to be pretty good. Every thing is stock with 22k miles. Maybe just expecting more precision in these components than they have by design. Slop may be there to promote movement and prevent binding in the absence of routine maintenance. Thank You. Derrek
  10. So I am pulling the rear wheel for a tire change and once the wheel is off I am checking the swing arm, shock etc. WHen I pick up on the swing arm, there is up and down slop where the bolt goes through the top shock mount. Bolt is tight, its like the mount hole in the shock is too large. I would figure this to be a near zero tolerance fit where the bolt passes through. Sufficient slop that you can make impact noise with it if you push up and down slightly on the swing arm. Amounts to about 1/8 inch movement up and down at the axle just from the slop in the bolt. Anyone else seen this before? OEM shock 22,000 miles. There is also oil on the bottom of the bellows. Still holds air and no excessive bouncing I can tell, but likely not long for this world. Thanks, RSTDdog
  11. To put a radial on the rear, you need at least a 16" rim. 16" is the smallest rim I have seen a radial tire offered in. I have yet to find a radial tire of any profile in a 15" rim diameter. I have assumed that since people use the FJR rear end (diff) on these bikes that an FJR 17" rim should mate to the OE diff as well. However a 17" radial will be two wide with out doing serious swing arm modifications and not sure if the wheel offset is correct to maintain alignment geometry. This would be cool if it would work, but would require serious custom fabrication. Possibly need a donor FJR swing arm, cuttting and welding,etc. In terms of what size will fit the stock 15" rear, a search in the second gen forum will turn up several discussions on it. Some report the 170/80-15 will work, others have reported slight rubbing on the swing arm. Then of course using a larger tire on a rim that is too narrow can also result in having less contact patch than you had with the stock tire. A larger tire on the appropriate width rim ( assuming it all fits) would look better though. All that being said, I have scraped both floor boards on my bike negotiating twisty bits of road and have not created wear at the limits of the OE rear tire size. I doubt there is going to be any improvement in handling using a larger or lower profile tire tire. A lower profile tire with a shorter overall tire diameter may have you touching down floor boards even sooner. The stock tire sizes on this bike IMO well exceed the handling limits imposed by the bike's weight, frame and suspension components. RSTDdog
  12. Stock Windscreen is listed under Cowling 1 on the Parts Fiche. I guess Cowling 1 is the literal translation of Windshield or screen from Japanese? Not sure why they don't just call it windshield.... http://www.boats.net/images/diagrams/yamaha/MCY/2006/XVZ13CTMV_CTMVC/IMAGES/COWLING_1.png So its just a mear 319.00 MSRP for the stock height or $270.00 at boats.net ..... maybe less at others.... 1 1D6-2837U-00-00 SCREEN $319.88 $270.30 I'm in the market for a replacement as well. Kind of like the Memphis shades batwing, but no listing for the RSTD. Derrek
  13. May want to google oil consumption on Kawasaki V twins. It was linked here before in a prior discussion. Seems around the 30- 50,000 mile mark, they can start using oil. Kawasaki apparently considers it normal wear for people who had hit this mileage while its still under warranty. This was for models prior to this so not sure if its still an issue. They are nice looking bikes, but has been said the seating looks tight. There are two for sale down here that I have seen. The HD dealer has one and so does our local Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki dealer. The blue one is sharp. On edit: Here are links to the local ones. Our dealers here are a little high. Your seems to be a good price. http://www.sunsportscycle.com/new_vehicle_detail.asp?sid=0304043X6K3K2012J8I45I10JAMQ980R0&veh=153556&pov=2444607 No link for the one at the HD dealer. Not on their site. RSTDdog
  14. The battery is under the seat if you didn't know. On the forward part of the riders seat there is an allen bolt on each side. Take those out and lift the front of the seat up and forward to remove the driver seat. Should be looking right down at the battery now. As has been said, check the connections first, they may simply be loose. Next check the battery. I would be curious to know what brand it is. I am personally not a fan of the majority of batteries available at auto parts stores, Sam's, etc. If its the type with removable caps thats needs water added, I would get rid of it. Higher probability of leaking and corrosion issues, particularly if they didn't run a vent line. The bike was designed for a Maintenance free sealed battery. The best battery for this bike in my opinion is the Original Yuasa Maintnenance free battery that came with it. My original battery is 6 years old and still in the bike. That battery is not cheap, but if you only have to buy one every 6 years, it ends up cheaper in the long run than most of the aftermarkets. RSTDdog
  15. Glad you and yours are OK. Remember 2nd gear is very versatile.Good to around 40 or 50 before the rev limiter kicks in IIRC. As long as you own the bike outright and don't have a lien holder you should be able to collect the check form the insurance company no problem. If you are doing the work yourself, you'll probably have to pay the dealer their fee for writing the estimate. If they total bike, depending on your state, you can request to retain the salvage rights on the bike. In most instances, you will get the "totaled value" less whatever the insurance company assigns as a salvage value. In some states in this scenario, if you retain the bike, The Insurance compnay cuts you a check for the net and the title never changes or gets assigned a salvage designation. Other states the title will get branded. RSTDdog
  16. Took me a minute to see there was a history slider on the right side. That's pretty cool. RSTDdog
  17. Very sad to hear about this. My wife's sister lives in Muskegon. She doesn't ride but knows alot of people in the community. I typically feel safer on rural roads and relax more than when riding in town. This is very disturbing. God Bless ALL. RSTDdog
  18. How much do they cost compared to the other popular choices? Thanks RSTDdog
  19. If its rated 74H like the OE rear tire, religiously check and keep the cold tire pressure at 41PSI , or the max pressure allowable as indicated on the sidewall of the tire if its higher than that. Also Keep at least 25psi inthe rear shock and more 40-45psi if loaded or two up. V7Goose has a tire thread that includes a write up and the miles he got out of several brands of tires including the Route 66. RSTDdog
  20. RSTDdog

    Topless!

    My other bike is a Mazda Miata. Just like the RSTD, only the Miata has less storage space.....
  21. If you have to add choke to make it run better, You either have partially plugged jets, an air leak, or possibly both. Also check that your electric fuel pump is working. RSTDdog
  22. The part number for 05-09 Royal Star Tour Deluxe Passing Lamp Mount is STR-1D635-40-00. http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/accessories/acscitemdetail/5/433/1812/11878/all/1/2557/0/detail.aspx According to the part numbers in your post, unless its a typo, You ordered a set of sealed beam passing lamps and a set of Halogen Passing lamps. You did not order a mount based on the numbers at the link above. STR-4NK35-40-01 is the part number for the early Royal Star Mount 96-01. I do not know what is different about it, but Yamaha would not have changed the Part Number if it would work on the newer Royal Stars (05 -09). 1D6 is the model code for the 05-09 RSTD. 4NK is the model code for the early Royal Star (1996-2001). Part numbers for the SAME part with unique model codes typically do not interchange.Would be nice if it worked since the 4NK mount is cheaper than the 1D6 mount. The actual Star paper Accessory catalog at the dealer is more clear and easier to figure out what goes with what than the online accessory info at Yamaha's website. The link above shows what you need. RSTDdog
  23. Are you sure all your sinks and drains are vented through the roof? My kitchen sink has a window over it, and since vents can't have 90's in them ( atleast not in FL) it has a stoddard vent inside the cabinet, essentially a one way check valve. If the check valve goes bad that could cause it. Just one thought. If the smell came back after running the dishwasher, which pumps a lot of water into the drain, I would suspect a leak in the waste pipe. That doesn't explain the smell in the other bathrooms since they should not be connected to the kitchen or share a vent with it (at least not through the wall). Do you have access to a moisture meter to check if the base of the cabinets or the wall are wet? Do a visual check for peeling paint or swollen cabinet base? RSTDdog
  24. I measured and the stock yamaha bucket is 4 3/4" across. The HD 69732-05 Frenched visor trim rings are also 4 3/4" across on the outside. The HD rings use a clamp style attachment (sideways screw across the bottom) That tightens the trim ring around the bucket. So these are a viable option with the Yamaha bucket. These are also available after market from what I have seen. My HD dealer gets 59.95 for them in the HD package. RSTDdog
  25. That information and more is located here. Lots of good info in that link. http://www.avonmoto.com/download/Tires101.pdf If your tires are cracked deep and less than five years old Avon may help you out with another set. RSTDdog
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