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RSTDdog

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  1. RSTDdog
    Very glad to hear that!!
  2. RSTDdog
    Yamaha has a semi- automatic version of the FJR1300. No clutch. You can foot shift or use buttons on the left handle bar control. You could buy that and have money left for the price of the Ridley. Of course if seat height is an issue, the Ridley is the only option or one of the new scooters, they are getting better looking and more motorcycle like. I can't see having Autoglide as a must have TM. I would have let Harley have it. I don't think changing the name to Autodrive or something else would have hurt their sales any. But what do I know. RSTDdog
  3. RSTDdog
    Very best of luck to you. I hope the VA has a good retinal specialist on staff. My wife works for an eye surgeon who's quite good, but he doesn't do retina's. Let us know how it turns out.
  4. RSTDdog
    Any chance that someone has removed the thermostat in your bike or maybe its stuck open?? If the thermostat is removed or stuck it will take a long time for the engine to warm up when its cold out. As a temporary check you could partially cover the radiator to see if it warms up faster, runs better sooner. Have you checked for air leaks around the intake manifolds? When its cold things shrink. Should not take 15 minutes for bike to warm up to run off the choke. RSTDdog
  5. RSTDdog
    Yes, except no counterbalancer to give it vibes (on purpose) and about 30 less horsepower. Not sure what Yamaha was thinking there.
  6. RSTDdog
    There are very few if any carburetor related issues that are manufacturer defects that would be covered by warranty. Old fuel, bad fuel, ethanol related issues, letting the bike sit and carbs varnish, are all non-warranty items. If the last dealer that worked on the bike damaged them with carb cleaner or something else that would be a pissing contest and up to the dealer to fix, not Yamaha. Only one person I know of in this area i would let open up my carburetors beside me.
  7. RSTDdog
    I know Yamaha PWC are assembled here, Newnan, GA I think. Also some of their ATV and UTV line. Not sure if any of the Motorcycles are though. Not sure about Yamaha, but I heard/read somewhere Honda own's a stake in every company that supplies parts to them. Part of their strategy to control quality.
  8. RSTDdog
    Actually it was the FIRST visit to the "correct" #2 carb:doh: Not sure what part of the TPS being there didn't clue me in that the first visit was #1 carb. Just not thinking...... Having Six individual carbs is kind of a PIA except for when you only want to have a look at one of them. Runs good on 5, but runs much better on 6!!
  9. RSTDdog
    I have never had a problem, but others have including newer Royal Stars and Ventures. Try a few drops of blue loctite, that should keep the screw from backing out if thats what's loosening up on you.
  10. RSTDdog
    Yes, that's my thread. ddog is me. I tried for ddog here but somebody had it already, thus rstddog. I tried for rstddog personalized plate in FL and that was already taken too. Any way I figured it out today. Found a piece of trash in the #2 carburetor main jet. A sliver of something, my best guess some varnish residue broke loose from inside a fuel line. Carburetor still spotless otherwise. Diagnostic errors I made. 1. Over thinking it. 2. If you have spark and compression move on to fuel. 3. Misread spark plug (will update with pics) closer examiantion revealed there was spark taking place. Lean misfire. 4. On Yamaha V76 carbureted motors, the carburetor is on the opposite side of the cylinder. i.e Carbs 1,3,5 are on the port side, Spark plug and coils for 1,3,5 are on the starboard side and vice versa for 2,4,6. So I first examined the #1 Carb (thinking it was #2) for a problem with the #2 cylinder. Realized it today looking up parts, went and pulled the real #2 carb and fond the problem. Running on the main tank again with anti-syphon valve still in place. Thanks for the input. rstddog
  11. RSTDdog
    Don't have a picture of mine, But I did this mod courtesy of Leland. Link has pics. It makes room for your feet (I'm size 12), but leaves you with options if you want and looks pretty sano to boot (no pun). http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=412083&postcount=32 rstddog
  12. RSTDdog

    Harley owners

    RSTDdog replied to Zane's topic in Watering Hole

    Once you figure out how to get the Venture engine to fit in the frame, the rest will be easy....
  13. RSTDdog
    Yes its a two stroke. I checked compression 125-130 psi in all cylinders. I replaced the spark plugs twice. When it first did it, that's what I thought it was and my friend brought me out some BR9HS-10 because thats what he had (one heat range off). Still had the problem. DUring diagnostics I replaced them again with BR8HS-10 which it calls for. It sparks on all 6 while cranking (visual spark check at plugs), Stator and pulser check good, sparks on all six with the timing light running at idle and under load at 4000. I went through the carbs (all six of them) in December. Other than slightly rough idle in gear (which it has always had), starts easy, idles good, and ran fine until this problem started. Since the last carb overhaul I have only bought non ethanol fuel from the marina. GOing to work on it some more today. Thanks for the replys, rstddog
  14. RSTDdog
    Well its not spark related, have continuous spark (per timimg light even when it surges). No significant combustion taking place though. #2 is colder than the other five. Surges and tries to make combustion around 4-4200 rpm jumps to 4500 when it does hit. Ran using a 6 gallon tank and eliminated the boat fuel system, still does the same thing. Boat starts right up every time, hot or cold, never need to prime it. Fuel pumps seem to test ok per the manual. Next step is have a look inside #2 carb I guess. Getting enough fuel to keep from melting pistons but not enough for combustion ( or that's my theory since there's spark and compression) With all the Yamaha motorcycle folks here I figured we have at least some Yamaha outboard techs in this bunch. This one has got me stumped. rstddog
  15. RSTDdog
    Ultimate is another aftermarket seat brand. Not cheap, but I think they are less money than the Russell day long. If you get the Harley Seat to work, be sure and take pictures. I often wondered about it. You see them for sale all the time on Craigslist. So far I am Happy with the switch to the Venture Pillow Top. Not easy to find a deal on those though. I think I paid 275.00 total or thereabouts for driver and passenger seat. RSTDdog
  16. RSTDdog
    Yes, but at least you have frost heave to keep you awake. Experienced some of that in New England this summer. Frost heave with the cracks filled with tar snakes and curves and hills. Keeps it interesting....... And if the OP didn't see it in the upper right, I'm in Cape Coral, FL. Its just paradise
  17. RSTDdog
    1. Yes, a Racor with the clear bowl,Has always had one, No water in it, Replaced it anyway. 2. Running Non ethanol 90 Octane marine fuel, always run Blue Stabil. Just bought 77 gallons and changed Racor at the same time. Running with the air cleaner off, Its fueling (would have melted the piston by now otherwise) 3. NA_ As indicated in post its carbureted not DI. 4. Same as #3, No injectors, Carbureted. I have it posted there as well. Figured I would try here too. We have a lot of members with a lot of experience. Thanks for the reply. Derrek
  18. RSTDdog
    Well figured I would post this here just to see if we have any out board Techs or folks familiar with this engine. Here's what I have got. 1995 Yamaha 225TXRT. Carbureted (6 individual) 76 degree V6 First noticed the problem as a surge sensation running at 4000, would get an intermittent burst for 1-2 secs then drop back. Had a little miss stutter I could detect coming up on plane, but otherwise planes easily (226 GW Seafarer). Replaced spark plugs, ran the same. Ran it for about an 1 hour after that. Checked the plugs and number 2 looks new. Here's what's been done. The engine has spark on all six at idle and I have visually verified spark at the spark plugs on all six at cranking speed (old school test with plug in the boot). Checked the ignition coils resistance primary and secondary windings. All OK per spec. Checked the resistance on the spark plug caps and found #2 way out . Replaced the spark plug cap on # 2. Test ride no change. Swapped complete coil assembly between #2 and #4, Still no change, problem does not follow the coil. Still missing with no coloring of the #2 plug. Resistance of Both Charge Coils and each of the 6 poles of the pulser coil are in spec. Using the Yamaha (Electro Specialties) CDI Tester (Black box with the dial, light and High/low switch) The Pulser coil (all six poles), the charge coils, and the CDI outputs to the ignition coils (using the specified load coil) all test in range. All of them tested higher than the minimum specified set point. Spec for CDI output to coil is dial at 75 and switch on high. All 6 cdi outputs would continue to light the light up to a dial setting of 82. Cranking speed with all plugs removed. Same for pulser coil output. Spec is 45 and low switch. All 6 poles will light the light with a dial setting up to 55. Repeated the output tests with the Yamaha CDI tester with engine hot. Same result. Ran boat with Air intake removed and confirmed fueling on #2 with same spray pattern as 4 and 6. Fresh fuel, 90 octane No ethanol Recreational marine fuel, New Racor filter, have never had any fuel starvation problems. Still have even compression 125-130 in all cylinders. Can Pulser Coil check good at cranking speed and be bad at higher Speed?? Pulser coil is over $300.00 don't want be wrong on this. Anyway to check if I'm dropping the pulser for #2 under load?? Don't have a winky blinky (Yamaha Diagnostic Tool YB 6444), but the manual says it works on mine. Is the winky blinky a reliable test? Would you condemn a pulser based on the Winky blinky code? Have I missed, not checked anything obvious that would effect just #2? Thank You in advance for any help, suggestions, Derrek
  19. RSTDdog
    AND STRAIGHT! The only curves and hills are on-ramps and bridges, at least in South Florida. (I feel your pain tufftom) . To the OP, Welcome to the site. RSTDdog
  20. RSTDdog
    I will also agree with the above. I have considered a wider tire primarily because I think it will look better, But, depending on the recommended rim widths, the above holds true and you end up with less net rubber on the road. I'd like to up grade to a 17 inch rear wheel so I can run radials front and rear (I have a strat front wheel with a radial), And thought about using an FJR rear rim, but then theres a whole another set of issues to work out. So far a bias rear and radial front hasn't been an issue. Your groove tracking could also be the brand of tire or the tread patterns. Other than that, At 21k miles if they haven't been checked, steering head bearings can make it feel loose an dpossibly exagerate any groove track sensations. Can't help much with the what's the largest that fill fit beyond what's been posted. RSTDdog
  21. RSTDdog
    Cool!! :cool10:Just seeing this. My wife wanted a new computer. This is officially the first thing I have ever won in a drawing. Hope to try and make some of the VR events next year. Thanks for putting this all together! Derrek RSTDdog
  22. RSTDdog
    Pilot screw adjustment is best (ideally) done with an EGA Exhaust Gas analyzer. While every good shop should have one, most don't and neither do most mechanics. There is typically no "set number of turns out". When tuned with an EGA you will find that none of the screws will be set the same. Yamaha provides threaded ports on eac of the exhaust head pipes to insert EGA probes. The options for adjusting mixture I am aware of are 1. EGA. 2 Lean Drop method. 3 Color tune product. I am not familiar with the Color tune product but a search will turn up discussion of it. 2 to 2 1/2 turns out is a good starting point for mixture screws. Prior to EGA's the lean drop method was typically described for setting mixture if the original settings were out. You will need a good tachometer (not the one on your bike if you have added one) to see small changes in rpm. Some people also do this procedure "by ear". I'm working from memory, but generally this is how its done. FIrst you start the bike and warm it up to operating temperature and set the idle speed to spec first. Then turn one mixture screw slowly in or out as necessary untill the maximum idle speed reading is obtained Changes (increases) of 100 to 200 rpm are not uncommon. Once the maximum idle speed is obtained ( whatever that happens to be) on that cylinders adjustment turn the pilot screw in to drop the rpm by 50 (So if you started at 1000 rpm, turned the screw until you got to 1150, turn mixture screw in until it drops to 1100) Now reset to the spec idle speed with the idle speed screw and move on to the next cylinder and repeat. After completing the above on all cylinders, re check the sync. You can use your sync stick while doing the above procedure as well since typically the max vacuum in a cylinder will also be when you are at max rpm. The sync stick readings should change while you are adjusting the mixture as that cylinder starts burning more (or less) efficiently. I would not resync between each mixture adjustment though, just use for a visual tool to see changes if by ear is not your thing. If you have a good shop nearby with an EGA I would pay them shop time to do it with an EGA. If not the above will get it pretty close. RSTDdog
  23. RSTDdog
    With respect to the high pitch whine at low speeds, try dragging (lightly applying) first the rear brake and then the front brake. That might help tell you if its a brake related noise. Or possibly isolate the nosie to front or rear. Don't forget to check the rear pads if its new to you. On many of these bikes the rear pads wear unevenly. WHile your at it check the front pads. Is the noise at idle a true grinding noise or more of a grumble?? If the carbs are out of sync, they can make some some unusual noises at idle. With the clutch pulled in the trans is disengaged. When you release the clutch the main shaft is spinning. WHen the engine is out of sync you can get noises from there. WIth 61K miles I would check the rear wheel splines and pins for grease (though this usually results in clicking noise). Also pull the rear pumpkinn and check, clean lube the splines on both ends of the drive shaft. Look at the records and see when the last time the differential fluid was changed and whether there are notes to the affect of the splines being lubricated. These are the things that immediately come to mind. On edit, here is a recent thread on cleaning greasing the drive pins and splines with two very good links with pictures. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62855 RSTDdog
  24. RSTDdog
    That looks really nice!!! I have a midnight model and Yamaha just Chromes over the casting marks and flaws that you sanded out. The lower triple is still black, not polished like yours. Very Nice Job. That takes time and patience! RSTDdog
  25. RSTDdog
    I would check that you didn't inadvertently loosen or change the connections at the wires and plug caps and that every thing is still tight and properly seated etc. Your pulling twisting and moving the wires when changing plugs. Not hard to disturb that plug cap to wire connection since they just thread onto the end, particularly if the wires are old. Let us know what you find out. RSTDdog
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