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RSTDdog

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  1. RSTDdog
    With "most" yamaha fastener part numbers like the one below (this is not the Shifter Bolt part number BTW) you can get the diameter and length form the part number. 97024-06020-00 BOLT, the middle 5 digits give you the diameter and length, in this instance the its 6mm by 20mm long. This happens to be the part number for the pinch bolt for the shifter linkage. The part number for the bolt you lost however doesn't appear to follow the same convention as "most" 90149-06280-00 SCREW This is the part number for the shifter bolt that falls out. You can still tell from the first two of the middle 5 digits that its 6mm diameter, but its clearly NOT 280mm long. 28mm is also too long I think from what I can remember. There is however an extra one of these on your bike. Each side cover has two similar (but not identical based on part number) fasteners. The one toward the rear holds the side cover on but the forward fastener is there just for decoration but un-threads out of the cover. Others have posted this before as an on road fix.I figured it was worth repeating here and mentioning to use the one that doesn't actually hold the cover on. RSTDdog
  2. RSTDdog
    Here is a recent RSTD thread with additional input (mine and others) including some maintenance questions. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53557 With respect to your first gen question, I have never owned one, but have had occasion to ride one when I worked at the motorcycle shop years ago. If top heavy is a concern for you, its my recollection its going to be similar to the ST and Vstrom. That being said, with proper mods (fork brace, progressive springs) its probably still one of the fastest, best handling, full dress tour bikes you can buy. Most all of the engine, suspension, and drive line parts are still available, but most if not all of the ancillary components you will need to find used. Going through the carbs on one thats been sitting can be an expensive propositon if it needs the vacuum pistons replaced. Last made in 1993 (Rare if you can find one) the newest one you'll find will be 17 years old. Good luck and Welcome! RSTDdog
  3. RSTDdog
    Earl, Good advice, but the 05 and up RSTD windshield and back rest come off with out tools. Just levers, come off in less than a minute. I personally don't worry about it. When we rode to indy, all the hotels on the way let us park up front under the canopy. Your bike is insured right? RSTDdog
  4. RSTDdog
    It looks nice. Has alot of the features the new Stratoliner deluxe should have had (cruise, bagger duals). Not sure I would rush out and replace my RSTD with one. I am debating the Strat deluxe fairing if I think I can get it to fit the RSTD. Been at the dealer eyeballing it. its more swept back than the harley style batwings so it should look better with the RSTD bars. Its available as an accessory item now and so is the radio package. A little pricey, but its available in Raven, so no painting for me. I saw a STratoliner deluxe with lowers on it at Indy at the yamaha tent. The lowers are an accessory but they aren't showing up yet on the website. I would wait to see where Yamaha heads. I am starting to think/agree with some of the earlier posts that the next Venture is going to be a full dress Strat with cruise, radio, trunk, bagger duals etc. Economy of scale. My bet will be called Stratoliner Venture. Who knows.... It would be great if they built something with the new Vmax motor, but I wouldn't hold my breath on that. Anyway, so much for the HIjacking. I think Kawasaki hit the feature option package right on. I need passenger options so it doesn't work for me. RSTDdog
  5. RSTDdog
    The whine is there to tell you to downshift....
  6. RSTDdog
    Star- Thanks for the price info on the Stock rack. Solo- The naturbar bracket places the trunk to high in my opinion. I prefer to keep the weight down as low as possible. I have a tour pack from an Ultra classic and am placing it at the same height relative to the rear seat as it is on the Ultra. This is also roughly the same height as the Venture trunk. I try to keep any mods as close to the stock design as possible to reduce any potential ill effects on handling. The rack on the rear of my bike now (pic) is almost perfect for height and placement, but its not stout enough, needs more support. The base of the naturebar bracket should be at or near the top of the pillion seat mount bolt by my estimation for more stock trunk height. RSTDdog
  7. RSTDdog
    Your Welcome! Good Luck! RSTDdog
  8. RSTDdog
    Must have missed that. What are they getting for the mount typically at Pinwall? Nothing there now that I can see. Racks and Pillow tops seem to go fast. RSTDdog
  9. RSTDdog
    Being you are a First generation Concours owner (an 04 concours is like a ZG1100 A-18 or something like that), you'll appreciate the technology or lack there-of in the RSTD. This motor, like the Concours, is virtually unchanged in its base form since it was introduced in 1984, withthe exception of tuning and power variation between the models it is used in and a bump in displacement from 1200 to 1300 cc (original 1st gen venture and Vmax, and 2nd gen venture and and Royal Stars) You can synchronize the carburetors without pulling the fuel tank which is nice and is generally easy to maintain. The only known issue is the gear whine. Intrinsic to the straight cut gears used in this engine, some have it worse than others. Search here and the 2nd gen forum for more discussion on this topic than you can stand. I can tell you my only regret (my prior bike having been an ST1100ABS TC) is that there is no sport aspect to his bike at all. Coming off a Concours, you will be scraping the floor boards. Knock 10-20mph of the speed of your favorite road on the Connie depending on your ability to tolerate your feet being pushed on accompanied by scraping sounds. That being said, the fact I live in Florida makes this an ideal bike since the majority of the curves are the interstate on ramps. Passenger comfort was also a consideration for me and the looks and cruise control won me over hands down. I am mostly about the touring these days, but a recent trip to indy via North Georgia, Deals gap, the Skyway and other roads had me wanting more sport on ocassion. Unless you are dead set on a brand new one, there are a bunch of these out there used, with low miles (less than 5K miles) in the 5-8k range depending on the year/miles. The value on these unfortunately tanks pretty badly. If you are going to put 100k miles on it, than that doesn't really matter. There has been an 06 midnight with 9k miles for sale by me on craigslist for about 6 months now. He started at 8K and is now down to $6900 (Midnights are black with extra chrome from the factory, The S models also have extra chrome). If you want a new one to get the 5 year warranty, be sure that the in-service date with Yamaha Corporate is the day you take delivery. Sometimes a dealer will buy (or have an employee buy) left over bikes in inventory in order to take advantage of any incentives before they expire. The problem is the warranty clock starts ticking at this point and the "new leftover" may not have 5 years warranty remaining. If the dealer is ethical he should advise you if this has occurred. Good luck and be sure and post back what ever you decide. What you ride doesn't matter around here. RSTDdog
  10. RSTDdog
    1. They don't know what they are doing. They can bench test the carbs to make sure they don't leak before they put them back on and/or to see exactly where its leaking from and proeprly diagnose the problem. I would not go back to this dealer if you have a choice. If all that is wrong at this point is the carburetor leaks, where exactly is it leaking? Still left rear? Is carburetor overflowing (float valve assy problem) or is there a leak somewhere else (fuel joint). If the o ring on the brass float seat is bad, the fuel will leak around it into the carburetor float bowl even if the float valve needle is fine and the float height is set correctly. Could have a bad o ring or crack in the plastic (I think they are plastic) fuel joints between the carburetors. Now that its not dirty carburetors (assuming they cleaned them properly), Its a warranty problem. If it turns out to be an oring, and they want o argue its damaged from fuel, I would argue an 07 bike should have ethanol compatible parts. I see you have it up For Sale? Is it because of this? If you feel like trailering it to Fort Myers Area, You have two options. I can look at it or you can have Jim Peters (and ONLY JIM) look at it at Sunsports Cycle and Watercraft- they are the Yamaha dealer. Only mechanic besides me that I would let work on my bike. RSTDdog
  11. RSTDdog
    Where did you find the Venture trunk mount? That's harder to find than the trunk itself. With that you can mount just about any trunk. If the GW trunk doesn't do it for you in the end, craigslist is the place to find a tour pack. Just do google and enter the following tour pack site:craigslist.org Also search the variant tour pak On average about 500.00. I have also seen ones with the speakers and all lights and the quick disconnect hd rack go for that, but they go fast. Loaded ones are usually 650-700. Person also has to be willing to ship if not near you. What they get on ebay for them is nuts. A guy could make a living buying tour packs on craigslist and relisting them on ebay I found a basic tour pack side lights only and backrest for 350 from a 1992 bike. Those packs are FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) and a little heavier. Newer packs are ABS. Old tour packs (70's 80's) are FIberglass and heavy and prone to cracking. I am still looking for an appropriate rack to weld to an extra backrest bracket I have to make mine quick disconnect. Although if I could find a venture mount I would use that since it puts the tour pack at the right height and less fabrication. Good luck and keep posting update pics RSTDdog
  12. RSTDdog
    When I had my carbs apart, the oring for the brass float valve was not in great shape. There was also oxidation build up ( water attraction from ethanol)on the aluminum sealing surface/wall for the oring where it seats in the carb body. The carburetors were other wise very clean and not varnished from sitting. A poor oring seal on the brass float valve can cause fuel to seep by even if the float holds the needle closed. The only way you will know if sea foam fixed it is to let it sit for a couple weeks. I'm guessing if its a slow seep, it will recur. Mine would flood the left rear if I let it sit a period of time. Riding regularly it was not an issue other than afterfire on decel. rstddog
  13. RSTDdog
    There would have to be a manufacturing defect, bad -broken part, etc for the carb work to be under warranty. Damage from ethanol, a load of bad fuel, water, etc would not be a warranty repair unless your dealer likes you and gets "creative on the claim". That being said the only parts you should need are float bowl gaskets and possibly float valves, but unlikely. I have successfully reused float valves many times on old carburetors. It looks like form your posts that you ride alot and the bike doesn't sit so i would rule out "conventional" dirty carbs from varnish, etc. How many miles? has it sat up any length of time (more than 4 months)? I had the carbs off my bike because someone didn't put the float bowls back on right. The float valves have little screens on them, so debris holding up the float needle is also unlikely. Now the orings around the push in float valve are another matter. Mine didn't look great after four years and 16k miles and didn't fit super snug. This is a place fuel can seep or leak by even if the needle valve is fine. I replaced those orings, reused the float bowl gaskets and reset the float levels per goose's tech article. Cured my decel pop/afterfire. YOu might be able to get bad o-rings on the float valve changed under warranty. It's my opinion they should be ethanol resistant and should last at least five years. I would venture a guess that's what it is if it hasn't been sitting. I'd be glad to help you with it, its not a bad job but I'm tied up this weekend already, so I couldn't get you going before your Oct 1 trip to Sebring. There is one mechanic at the Yamaha Dealer in Fort Myers I would trust to do the job. But only him! Don't care for the dealership otherwise. Used to work with him, he's been doing this 30 plus years. He's forgotten more stuff than most people know.. Let me know if you need help. Rstddog
  14. RSTDdog
    If you look inside from the inlet side, they should look the same. If one looks different, with stuff begining on the inlet side and basically keeping you from seeing all the way through it, that's the one with the converter in it. I think as mounted on the bike its the right one. The left one is virtually straight through, its open except for a baffle on the inside at he outlet side of the muffler. At least that's what I remember from the set I had from an 08 ultra classic. I ended up not wanting to try and knock the converter out and just re-sold them. I would want two mufflers that were the same just so there is no imbalance in the flow between left and right. I am keeping mine stock for now. I have a set of stock venture mufflers I may modify at some point, but after being on a 1300 mile trip, quiet is nice. RSTDdog
  15. RSTDdog
    9830 miles? Original rear tire? If its original, might be time for a new one before your trip. If it was just replaced and you have a vibration, look for a balance, tire, installation issue. RSTDdog
  16. RSTDdog
    To check steering head bearings, get the bike securely supported with the front wheel of the ground. Grab the front forks at the bottom near the axle and pull in out (front to back) and check /feel for movement at the neck bearings. Helps to have a second person just because the bike is heavy and difficult to impart force at the base of the fork and have a look at the same time. If you can feel movement they are definitely loose. They could be on the loose side with little or no visible movement. I think these bikes have a rubber washer in the neck bearing adjustment hardware. I think some people remove and replace that with a metal washer. Doing that you have to be more precise with the bearing adjustment in my opinion to prevent overtightening. There is a tech article here on adjusting the steering head (neck) bearings. The interval per Yamaha is to check every 16000 miles. RSTDdog
  17. RSTDdog
    The oil ends up in the part of the airbox over the carburetors. You won't see it where the filters go. Mine the oil from the airbox would run down on the left side rear carburetor. I just recently cleaned all that up when I had the carbs off. Think the prior owner overfilled or let it sit and had fuel contamination over filling the oil. I can tell you that it was oily, but there wasn't half a quart up there. Maybe an an ounce or two at the very most. These engines are pretty much bulletproof. As long as there is oil in it, its going to run. A half quart of old oil left over is not going to hurt it. Change it when you think it needs it and don't worry about what you don't get out. It just doesn't matter. That being said, I use an air hose to back flush the oil leading to the filter area. Thst usually gets me a couple of ounces more out of the drain. Part of being anal is knowing in your mind it doesn't matter but having to do it anyway because it makes you feel better. I should take my own advice.... rstddog
  18. RSTDdog
    I am quite surprised the owner of this site allows this waste of bandwidth thread to exist...Considered a troll post on most forums... Certainly not what I spend $12.00 for.... Sad RSTDdog
  19. RSTDdog
    Here is the thread on the trunk bracket Naturbar makes. It has pictures of it. HIs pics show an aftermarket trunk, but you could bolt on any of the Harley trunks as well. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35033 You will find all of the RSTD trunk discussion in the the RSTD tech forum. Search "trunk" within that forum and that will bring up all the discussion threads, most have pics as well. RSTDdog
  20. RSTDdog
    I had a pop on decel. Just left side from what i can tell. Mine was a single distinct pop when shutting down the throttle.Didn't want to have it happening during the group ride to Indy so set out to investigate. Carbs had been off before with prior owner because the float bowls were on backwards (couldn't get to the drains on two of them). So that's where I started. Goose mentioned the exhaust pop being caused by unburned hydrocarbons (rich) and also got me to thinking carbs. With carbs off, I inspected everything, checked the float valves and the seats including the orings that seal the brass float seat. There was a little build up corrosion around the oring area on the carb body. Cleaned all that up and replaced the o-rings. Then set the floats per goose's tech article. I found the floats were adjusted low (richer or higher fuel level) than compared to the spec similar to what Goose had found.I set them all to mid spec .34" IIRC. I did not check to see where this puts the static fuel level relative to the separate spec for that. None of the jets were plugged but the brass was dark colored. No varnish or algae at all in the carbs. CLeaned the jets for grins and blew through all the passages with carb cleaner then air. I did not split the carbs off the rack. Put It all back together and No more pop/afterfire on decel. Bike feels crisper.Haven't even checked the sync yet. Can't tell if mileage has changed, since everything since I put it together was riding in the mountains and backroads using mostly 3 and 4. Even at that, mileage was 38-40 just under my Florida Flat road mileage of 40-42 before the carb service. That's uncorrected mileage based on bikes odometer. I should note that I still have exhaust leaks at the crimp on both Y pipes and the AIS is still hooked up. Exhaust is stock. Not one pop in 1300 miles from Atlanta to Indy and back. RSTDdog
  21. RSTDdog
    Has the bike been sitting up for any length of time prior to this? If the the carburetor is dirty or its a fuel contamination issue, this won't be covered under warranty unless your dealer likes you and is creative with the warranty claim. Are you sure its fuel on the the left carb boot and not oil? Mine was oil. Prior owner either overfilled it or it had fuel in the oil from sitting. Causes oil in the airbox and it leaks out usuallly on the left (side stand side) I just cured my pop/backfire on decel by resetting the floats per Gooses tech article. I also cleaned jets while I was in there for grins, but none of them were clogged. I replaced the orings on the brass float seats. Runs much crisper. No pop in 1300 miles of riding from Atlanta to Indy and back and thats with exhaust Y's that both leak. Anyway if its flooding, its float/fuel level related. The excess unburned fuel will ignite in the exhaust causing the backfire (after fire). Seafoam may fix it depending on what it is, but unlikely IMO. If you have the appropriate allen socket, you can try draining the carbs in conjunction with the trick mentioned above. The float valves have very fine mesh screens on them, so the odds of it being a piece of debris is slim. If its been sitting varnish will stick them. This doesn't long with E10 gas. rstddog
  22. RSTDdog
    Keep in the mind the dealer taking your trade-in has to compete with craigslist/ebay when he sells it. Want to know what its worth? Do a nationwide search on Craigslist. Disregard the high listings at NADA or KBB. Ebay look at sold listings (you need to be logged in to do that). There has been a 2006 RSTD Midnight for sale on the Fort Myers Craigslist, low miles. Started at $7500, when to $7300, now at $6999. One owner, hasn't sold its been on for at least three months. Do a google search on Royal Star Tour deluxe and the posts about the whine show up. THis doesn't help resale either. These are great bikes, People that have them love them, but people who don't have them, don't buy them. RSTDdog
  23. RSTDdog
    I have had my belt tool for years Its the non ratcheting kind. Would not be worth buying even the cheaper one IMO just for this job. The amount that comes out is less than 4 ounces. Ill post apic when iget back from indy. Rode deals gap cherohola skyway and roads in between today . All I cansay is yeehaw gotta love that 3rd gear. Rstddog
  24. RSTDdog
    Have you checked the Carb Sync yet?? When they are in Sync and everything is stock the idle is pretty smooth. I would make sure it runs perfect in stock form, then start making changes. I have not done the Jason mod so can't comment on that. To me its really Half a YICS and not really comparable to V boost at all. Tying all four together like you are suggesting is most similar to the YICS ( Yamaha Induction Control System?) from the 1980's. Yamaha inline fours used to have all four intakes tied together via a casting through the cylinder head. I do not remember the marketing hype about it at the time but I'm sure Mr. Google does. That port going through the head was like 3/8-1/2 inch IIRC. There was actually a YICS block off tool to block the ports so you could properly Sync the carbs. Once synced the tool is removed and the intakes are connected with each other. The connection is after the throttle plate so it should provide balance and compensation for minor differences in vacuum. IT also adds volume to the vacuum side of the intake tract. The Early Ventures (Ist gen)had a version of YICS that used plastic boxes to tie the intakes together. The boxes would split and leak and cause rough running and most people removed that. If there were any real benefit to YICS or tying the intakes together, (fuel Economy, emissions reduction, performance, etc) IMO Yamaha would still be doing it. No matter what mods you do its always good to establish a baseline first. Let us know how you make out. RSTDdog
  25. RSTDdog
    Changing coolant tonight, reviewing the coolant change tips etc. (Thanks for those). Did the complete drain including water pump, but did not want to remove the exhaust, Just not a fan of that. So started looking at it and what I had in my tool box and Bam! Serpentine belt tool. If you happen to have the one I have, its a Lisle if I remember correctly, and it comes with a set of three different size very shallow sockets and the end of the socket has a hex that fits into the flat bar for the serpentine belt. And yes it fits in from the side without removing the exhaust. Total depth of everything is less than an inch. One caveat is my particular set only comes with an 18mm socket (3/4" equivalent). It is a six point and fits well enough to remove the drain bolt. If you have an older bike with some miles or the coolant has never been changed in years and you suspect the drain bolt might be stuck ( after all its a steel bolt into aluminum), This might not work.My bike at 4 1/2 ears old and 16,000 miles, the bolt broke loose easily. I'll check and see if Lisle has a 17mm that fits my Serpentine belt tool. The tool comes with a drive adapter too so I could grind down a 17 mm socket to get it shallow enough to work in the future. I'll try and post a picture tomorrow. Getting too late. Having said all that, when I saw what came out of the water pump drain bolt, even having the ability to remove it easily, I probably wouldn't bother pulling it again. But for those who like to get out every last drop, but don't want to pull the exhaust, here's one way to do it. RSTDdog
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