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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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Where does it plug in at??? Under the tank or somewheres else?? I ask because my brake light is stuck on, I disconnected the foot switch and it stayed on so it pretty much narrowed it down to the front.
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On the MKII's trunk light, is it turned on with a mercury switch or is there a momentary switch that turns on the light when the trunk is opened? I noticed the brackets on the left hand side hinge that lead me to believe it would be a momentary switch. Would anybody happen to have an extra one they want to part with? Thanks, Bill
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Cruzin down a dark country road and I hit the high beam and the headlight simply goes off. Dang it gets real dark and scary at 60 MPH and no lights with road construction all around. The first thought that entered my mind was all of the discussions about HID failures. My first reflex action is that if I just did something and did not like the result, first thing is to undo it. So I switched back to low beam the light flickered a couple of times but did not come back on. By now I am down to about 30 MPH and still hard on the brakes. While still breaking I wiggled the hi/lo switch and the headlight came back to life just as I was coming to a stop. So as long as I was stopped any how I did some quickie diagnostics, switching to hi would still cause the light to turn off, jiggling the switch I could get it to come on in hi, switching to lo would make the light go out, jiggling the switch I could get it to go back on. So I got it on in lo and hotfooted it back home, praying that a bump in the road would not make it go out again. So I guess that this weekend I get to tear the switch apart and hope that it is just a mater of cleaning and lubing the contacts. It was NOT the HIDs fault it was the bike that told it to turn off. I guess that I will be adding some driving lights so that if the big light ever goes out again, I will not be left in the dark, It could have been real bad had this happened on a curve instead of a straight. -
Had the bike(98 RoyalStar) out for a few hours every thing seemed fine.The next day went to start the bike and nothing,no lights ,nothing. I looked at the battery and it was a little wet like it was leaking.I bought a new battery charged it up and still nothing.I've been searching around a little and was thinking May be some thing fell off the switch or some thing dumb.checked the ignition fuse,looks ok.I did not check the Main fuse,I saw that looking around the forum,I guess the location for that is behind the cover at the left passenger foot rest?Is that some thing I can tell is cooked by looking at it? Is there some other common thing that causes this I should be looking at? Thanks jim
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I've searched and cant really find anything on my problem, usually people have the problem that the brake light wont come on.... my issue is it wont go off. I tried doing some trouble shooting and I unplugged the foot brake switch with no avail so its looking like its the upper switch. I took the upper off and it seems to be moving freely, if I knew where it plugged in at I would unplug it to see if the light went off. So.... anyone know where it plugs in or have any idea what it could be???? Almost forgot... 2006 RSTD with 30k miles.
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Oh Big Family on the Internet, Was on the American Legion Legacy Run from Indianapolis when my bike decided not to start. The shop hasn't come up with a solution yet after telling me it is probably the ignition switch and some "other" electrical issues. They also told me they can't locate a switch in America and aren't able to order one. They looked at a switch from a 96 but claim it is totally different and the wires are not compatible. I asked them to install a way to bypass the switch but that didn't work either (lights won't come on, no starter) The bike is still in Indianapolis at the shop, the Legacy Run is completed (rode with a support vehicle) and I head back to Indy tomorrow. Anybody in the area with knowledge about where to get a switch and know how to correct such problems? Unfortunately I don't know how to work on a bike but am willing to learn. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. -
Again, thanks for all the help yesterday. I got the wires spliced and bought a 50amp toggle switch as per the tech. library. Question is, I had grip heaters and already have a toggle switch mounted on the plastic cover over the gas cap. I have no idea how many amps it is? It was mounted to heat my grips and had both a low and high setting. I no longer use the heaters and have removed them, but left the switch. Can I us this toggle switch instead of mounting another? Do I really need a 50 amp switch?
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So many kudos to the very knowledgeable folks here! Had my ignition short out today and between the how too's here in the library, long distance telephone help from Eck and Sleeperhawk, and FLB's quick site pictures and clarification, I got a switch installed to by pass and get the bike going! This site is so full of great members!!!!!!! Thanks all!
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Anyone on that can answer a question about the wiring of an ignition by-pass switch?????????? errrghhhhh 770-624-4569????
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now this was scary this morning.. I had been away visiting family yesterday and had to leave the bike out in the heavy rains overnight.. because I have a dodgy ignition key slot cover, I put electrical tape over the hole where the key goes in to prevent it from flooding.. This morning, I go to the bike and go to start it: Key goes in, turn key, electricals come on as normal and with the bike in neutral, I hit the starter and the engine turns once to what feels like to a full compression then stops.. Another press of the starter button and the bike starts normally, runs normally and all is good. That 'stop at compression' thing happens every once in a while, not sure what causes it or what it means but it doesn't seem to cause any harm.. 10 minutes later I'm leaving and pull into a gas station for a fill up.. This time when I go to start the bike, I get that odd 'cranking over to full compression stop' but now all the electricals are out.. ooops!! Turn the key full to the right, red switch ON, no headlight, no radio, no instrumentation, nothing.. wow, its like the battery got disconnected.. no smell of arching or burnt wires, check the ignition fuse and it's good. huh? Nothing.. I move the bike out of the way of the pumps and try it again.. nothing.. nothing. No juice.. ouch.. I'm 500 km away from home and prolly 5000 kms from a decent Yamaha dealership that could help me out.. I cycle the kick stand a few times, remembering something in an article about this.. not sure though.. I wait 10 minutes while chatting with someone about how nice my 'harley' looks etc.. huh.. And then the bike starts as if nothing was wrong.. Mind you, the radio has to have it's channels reset and the trip odo went to full odo as if the bike had it's battery disconnected. So odd! The bike ran well and well, I decided I had better head for home. Luckily for me I had a spare key on the bike so when I had to do fuel stops, I left the ignition "on" with the key but killed the engine with the red switch, used the spare key to open the gas cap.. I was leery of wanting to turn off the ignition switch with the key in case I could no longer get juice through the system again like it did earlier this morning. When I got home, I shut the bike off via key and turned it back on.. every thing is back to normal as if nothing wrong ever happened this morning.. I've been back out several times this evening to see if I could duplicate the error but nothing.. it's all good.. (knock on wood).. So the question is "what happened this morning" ?? Will it happen again? I'm worried this is going to develop into an intermittent problem like my fuel pump did to me last summer.. it would fail every so often but never enough to be properly diagnosed until it finally died the big death.. I'm thinking I will soon need to replace the whole ignition switch (where the key goes in) since the spring loaded slot cover doesn't slide over anymore.. Does anyone have any ideas or comments on what happened or what I should do? $136 for a new switch..
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OK I believe i have an ignition switch going bad. I turn on the key and nothing other than the stero works. I keep turning it off and on and finally the dash and everything else comes on 28,000 miles on the bike. Does everyone agree it's the switch and if so where is cheapest place to buy one and can I keep the original lock and key.
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Tried to start my 86 VR after it had been sitting about a month. Had a little trouble getting it to fire right away, and ended up running down the battery (it might have been low to start with). Grabbed the jumper cables and hooked them up to the car. Got plenty of cranking power, but the bike still wouldn't fire up (might have flooded it by now). Then I just lost the starter completely. When I press the start button nothing happens except I hear a relay click, to cancel out the headlight I think. I have it in neutral, so I don't think it's related to the sidestand switch or the clutch lever switch. I tried rocking the bike a little in 3rd gear in case the brushes in the starter motor are a little worn and might move them a little. Still nothing. Any suggestions what might be wrong or what else I should be looking for? Thanks.
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I have a 2008 Venture and up until now, everytime I turned the key on and moved the kill switch to the on position, I immediately heard a series of clicking noises which I presumed was the fuel relay. My battery had died and I recharged it and now it makes no clicking sound but it will start OK. Have I fried the relay or is that even what the noise was. I called the stealer and he said as long as it starts and runs it is nothing to worry about but I don't know. Please help.
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Would 47,000 on a '99 be too many miles to switch over to MC Synthetic oil? Whacha think??
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Last month I picked up a 92 Venture project bike in pieces, bad rear driveline and final drive. The bike had sat for at least 6 years, supposedly ran real well prior the the driveline/final drive failure . I now have it reassembled and am ready to get it running. The problem is that I do not have any spark to any of the four cylinders. I find a lot of information for the models prior to 1990 with the two pickup coils, but not very much about the single coil system. I checked the wiring to the pickup coil, took the crankcase cover off and inspected the internal wires to the coil, cleaned the connection. By the service manual, the coil ohms out within spec's. Can anyone tell me what the pn is for the single pu coil? Took apart and cleaned the right handlebar stop switch. I cleaned the contacts for the ignition coils and ohm'd them as well, they also tested out good. Have not yet looked at the side stand switch or the emergency stop switch. I also cleaned the fuel tank and lined it, cleaned the carbs, fuel pump and installed new fuel lines and filter. I suspect that my problem may be the TCI. Is there a diagram of the tci box for the 90-93 models with the pinouts and ohm values available? What is the best way to remove the TCI? I have the battery and air box removed so far. If it is the TCI, anyone have experiance with the ignitech TCI unit on a 90-93 Venture? Is this a better way to go than finding a used one? There do not appear to be a lot of used ones available for these years. Anything else I need to be looking at? Thanks
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Would someone explain to me how my engine stop switch on my right handle bar is supposed to work. I have an 89 Venture Royale and the switch says "run" and "off" I believe. The writing is a little faded. If it is in the "off" it will not start with the start switch but "off" does not "kill" or "stop" the engine when it is running. Is this the way it is supposed to work on the Venture? Usually the "engine stop" or "kill" switch does just that. I was wondering as there might be a problem with the wiring as the previous owner did a few modifications. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thank you. Sam
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OK folks, I got a sticky kick-stand switch that is aggervating the mess out of me.lol Tried WD-40, white spray grease and no luck. It doesn't come all the way out and make contact lately...was just once in a while but now it is every time. Anyone got a good fix for this or no where I can get one new or used? Thanks in advance, Roy -
Ok, put in the HID kit from that everyone is raving about. Well of course, Murphy's Law now steps in. I have low-beam but no high-beam, put the old bulb back in, both beams work. Called the Canadian company and they say not enough power to the ballast for the high-beam or could be a faulty low/high beam switch on the bike. Took the switch apart and of course it is a sealed plastic unit with three wires coming out. Now I slowly push the switch to high beam and the HID high beam comes on, but that is with the switch barely depressed and when fully enaged, no HID high beam. So anyone have a possible answer, otherwise I am going back to the standard bulb. -
I want to remove the kickstand, but i'm not sure how to bypass the switch . Can someone tell me how? Thanks Ron -
I'll have a limited supply of Royal Star Venture Mic-Mutes kits @ MD. I'll also have Mic-Mutes kits for the GL1800 Gold Wing and for the J&M CB JMCB-2003-DU. I'm no longer able to accept credit cards at MD. I can though accept CCs thru a PayPal email invoice or also on my website. Cash is always best though. If you know that you'll want to install Mic-Mutes @ MD. let me know so that I may reserve one of the RSV Mic-Mutes kits for you. I can also bring GL1500 Gold Wing and Valkyrie Interstate Mic-Mutes kits by request, but I don't intend to have those kits if no one asks in advance. Price is: $139.95 for GL1800, GL1500, RSV or Valkrie Interstate. $154.95 for GL1800+CB PTT switch, GL1500+CB PTT switch, Valk+CB PTT switch $119.95 for the JMCB-2003-DU I'm not charging for installation, nor am I performing installations. I'll be glad to help and direct you to do it. Like last year I'm sure that there will also be plenty of others willing to lend a hand as well. Hope to see you there! Bill Morphy www.Mic-Mutes.com
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I have read a couple of posts about cleaning the contacts in the kill switch. Can someone explain how to get at them. I split the housing and see a white block under the red switch, does the red switch pop off the top of the housing and the block pull out to get at the contacts? Thanks.. -
Ok, I put some 1.5 inch risers on my bike this morning and it was a PITA to do. All the hoses and cables seem to be OK but I found that when I turn to near full lock on the bars, the handlebar clamps hit the center console next to the ignition switch. Does anyone have a remedy for this?? It has already marked the chrome in that area!! Pics below.
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I've not been satisfied with the Ajure passing lamp lens and I would like to go to a halogen housing. So I'm still wondering if the Vstar lamps will fit on the Venture light bar? The catalog says they are not for the Venture and I just wonder why they won't work. I know the switch is on the housing so it would be tough to reach if that was the only switch. Any other reasons? Dennis -
Yeah, so it's not a Venture... But I can't figure it out. I put together a go cart for my kids, using a single seater frame, and a Honda 5.5hp engine I got from Craigslist. I got everything together and buttoned up and apparently it's a Naskart. You can only turn left!!! If you make a right turn, the engine just shuts off! You can turn left all day long (which the kids are getting bored with) but turning right means I have to walk across an acre of land to pull start it again. Here's what I've checked, feel free to make suggestions... Oil level is good. (Thought there might be an oil-level kill switch that was tripping when oil shifted to the left side) Gas tank is full. Cleaned the jet on the carb, and put new gaskets on it. (Yes, I'm running SeaFoam) Checked kill switch. (Thought maybe the wires could be grounding out on turns) I'm running out of ideas (and tired of walking across the field.) I'm open to suggestions!
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OK, I am really confused on this. My new bike has the extra lights which are set in chrome all over the back of the rig and a simple switch to turn them on and off, which works fine. I was replacing it with a rocker switch that has an LED (so it now needs it's own ground). When I flip the switch the on/off functionality of the switch works fine but the LED only goes on for a brief moment before the switch engages (basically just flashes on then back off). Any thoughts on why this LED wouldn't work. For the supply I am using a blue wire that comes from the fuse box. The load is the one I am assuming goes to the lights. I ran a ground wire right to the negative terminal of the batter, do I need a different ground point? I also went and got another identical switch in case there was something wrong with the rocker I bought first. Thanks!
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