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Showing results for tags 'clean'.
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Asheville meet in 2 weeks. I guess I better clean up a scoot.
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The windshield on my Royal Star has a hazy film on it. What is the best way to get a clear view again? -
Like to do it myself.Read the instructions in the manuel and fainted.Said to remove everything but the sink.Is there a way I can just flush it and replace the coolant with less hassel.Collant is clean and leaving some in system will not bother me.Bike is 07 RSV Thanks in advance. Curtis
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Hey sleepy, you were asking about the product so here you go... Over the last few months I’ve been experimenting with a product and I find it helps tremendously to keep the white walls clean and looking white. It provides a coating and helps seal the rubber to prevent brake and road dust from embedding in the rubber. The product is “Inflatable Boat Protectant” and it’s made by Strico Products Limited. I’ve been using this product for over ten years on my Zodiac and its great stuff. It’s designed to protect the boat material from UV rays and subsequently the coating also makes the material much easer to clean. I thought of using this product on the tires one day after having worked so hard to clean them up. I did want time to test the product before I mentioned it on the forum, it’s been almost three months and 6000 miles and thus far I’m more then satisfied with the results. *Please note this is ‘not’ a cleaner. The product is designed for PVC and Hypalon and is also suitable for Vinyl and rubber. It’s a milky liquid that you apply with a ‘small’ (about 1 sq. inch) sponge or piece of paper towel. Although this product has a dry finish and does not wash off with water *Do not put any product on the part of the tire that comes in contact with the road. I put two coats on in the spring to test the product and another two coats when I washed the bike a month later and haven’t put any since. Just wipe it on and let it dry about 10 minutes between coats, two coats should do (more is not necessarily better). I won’t have to put any more on for a while now as it seems to hold up very well, even after washing. It will dry with a bit of a sheen (which I think looks good) but more importantly it makes cleanup MUCH easer and you won’t have to scrub so hard or as often to get the ww’s clean. I wipe mine with a little Vim and I’m done. It helps keep the white white and the black black, I also use it on some of the vinyl. Use what you want to clean up the tires there are a lot of products that work just fine. Just make sure that when you put this stuff on that the tire is clean and dry. You won’t have to be as aggressive with the cleaning after applying the Strico. Now for the bad news, this bottle has lasted me for a while, I’m not sure where you can get it or if it’s still even available. I’ll go back to where I got this bottle and see what I can find out, in the meantime if anyone else happens to know where it can be found please lets us know.
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Okay, I bought new plugs for my 87VR. So I could check how the bike is running, clean or not? Well after 500 miles on the new plugs I got some misfires at idle when hot. Like when doing a carb sync. or setting the low speed screws w/digital tach. 1st let me say I did all these same things 2 month ago w/old plugs and had no misfires. Now I decided to check everything before getting ready for Americade next week. I have new spark plug wires and caps as of 4 years ago . The misfired showed up as a loud tick coming right from the spark plug cap of #3 & #4 along with a skip or drop in rpm while simply idling, which shows clearly on my digital tach. I changed the spark cap...no change in problem. Then changed the spark plug and problem gone. The plugs removed are clean, not fouled. My low speed screws for all cylinders when adjusted show an obvious "sweet spot" varying from 2.25 to 3.5 ccw. Not trusting these new NGK DPR8EA-9 plugs. I now have all my old NGK plugs back in. I may try to get non-resistor DP8EA-9. Fact being, it's normally the resistor element being faulty under extreme heat that causes the issue. I do not like iridium plugs as the electrodes are very sensitive and should not be touched by even a gap gauge. I guess even Japan is making crap these days...Anyone else had similar problems like this???
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I have my 87 stripped down so that is look like something out of a mad max movie. Had to take the saddle off, so I thought since it was off do a good detailing job. Any suggestions on how to clean it and whatever. D
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I just bought a Show Chrome windshield. Is there anything that I shouldn't use on it? I plan to use mostly water and pledge to clean it. Does car wash soap hurt them? Thanks, John
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A while back I had asked about a fuel problem I was having. I had changed the plugs, wires, and caps. I ran Seafoam through a few tanks. But I was still only getting about 33-34 mpg. Someone here had mentioned that I might have a float problem and told me how to check for the fuel vapor rising out of the carbs after I shut it off. I didn't see any vapor but I did notice that one slide was not moving at all. I pushed it open with my finger and it wouldn't close. So I pulled the diaphram and slide out so I could clean the carb where the slide moves. there was some build up of something along one side of it and it came clean fairly easy. The slide moves freely now. Now I wonder if I'll get my milage back.
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Ok had a problem lift blinker is flashing faster than normal, the right side is fine. Got an 1157A bulb did the mod and still have the same problem, socket looks clean. Any idears? Thanks
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After the first 100 miles on my new '84 Venture, I spent time doing some initial maintenance on it today. Changed the oil and filter, final drive gear oil and the spark plugs. What a pain in the butt changing those 4 plugs. At first I thought I would check, clean, and regap the old ones, but I don't want to do that again for awhile, so I just replaced them. Trying to find the correct thinner walled socket, length of extension, and a smaller ratchet to fit in those tight quarters was fun. I used my shop vac to clean out any debris before pulling the plugs to be safe as I couldn't really see down there. I used a 3" piece of 3/4" clear hose in placing the new plugs, with a touch of oil on the threads, down in there and starting them without cross threading. Clear tubing allowed me to see if it was turning and it reduced the amount of "tiny" turns with my ratchet too. I put some seafoam in the gas tank and then went for a 40 mile ride with my wife in the balmy 55F weather. I noticed it ran a little better. With new tires, new brake pads front and rear, and clutch and brake fluid recently changed by PO, I hopefully won't be doing much else for the time being. At some point I will tackle the carb synch and valve adjustments as needed. My wife is now spoiled with the comfort of this bike!!
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60 deg in Ohio had to do it. Pushed my bike out and went for a ride. Roads were a little salty so couldn't chance it had to pull out the cleaning stuff and clean her after an hour ride. Oh thats right I was supposed to be grouting a floor well looks like rain tomorrow :missingtooth::banana:
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Wow this is getting expensive. I went to advance to get a couple thing to clean the bike with. After my military discount and still $40 later i have a few things to clean the bike with. My wife is going to kill me soon. I bought the bike as a way to save money on gas to work. I am making up for that money on products to make her like aweome. I am getting away with it so far becaue i explained it isnt something i have to buy every week. Anyone else having this problem? its like a drug addiction right now.
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I recently received and installed a Clearview windshield. What does everyone use to clean thiers??? The instructions say to soak a towel with water, and then wring the cloth over the shield while scraping the bug remnants with your hand. I have no problem with that, but imagine the mess it makes on your fairinf and fender... Any suggestions??? -
I recently saw a used RSV at the local dealership, the previous owner had replaced the saddlebag mounting screws with screws that had knobs on the end, thus ending the need for the allen wrench everytime you want to remove and clean behind the bags. I haven't found them anywhere. Anybody got any suggestions? Trooper
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Does a clean title and a frame for an 86 VR have any value? I have them if anyone wants to make an offer. Bull
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Received this in an e-mail this morning... found it kind of fascinating. So I'm using my BBQ this weekend... so I thought I'd clean it up.. I have noticed there are bees coming from under the cover so I thought I 'd kill them, obviously... So here's the BBQ in question. Now i know these bombs aren't for bees and that but i thought i'll suffocate/smoke them out. So here is the weapon of choice and delivery system. I thought I was pretty smart hehehe designed to be easily maneuvered under the cover of darkness... so then i release the weapon of buzz destruction.. OMG! the sound from under the cover was incredible!!! You could hear it 3m away easy... Then I ran like the clappers.... coming back few mins later to see the death toll... was at least 20mm deep mass grave I continued to remove the cover and to light the bbq to give it a clean when i noticed some fattly looking substance on the top of th side shelf thing.... Bit weird.. i clean it before i put it away for winter and no way was there fat there so i begun to wonder...... NO..... it can't be could it? I slowly removed the rest of the cover only to find the HQ..
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Manage to pop the miror galss out and back in again on a first gen to get at the swivel screw without breaking it. I was thinking of attemting it with the help of a hot air gun to try to clean up the swival so i can proper adjust and keep my mirror position.
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http://cycle-car.com/ Very interesting looking motorcycle/car. Would be a bi*** to clean that engine after running it around thru the bugs. RR
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Hi y'all, When I pulled the rear wheel on my Venture the inner race of the needle bearing on the LH side fell out, exposing the needles. I want to clean up the bearing and put in fresh grease. However, I can't get the needle bearing and its cup (outer race) out of the wheel without damaging it. Any ideas on how to clean the bearing while installed in the wheel? I wonder why Yamaha elected to use a needle bearing there instead of a sealed ball bearing like on the other side? The rear wheel on my Virago has no needle bearing. Seems like a strange solution. Jeremy -
My best friend has been really jealous of my RSV since I bought it. He has two Kaw Drifters and is looking at a 1999 loaded with extras for a REALLY great price. The only issue is it has over 200k on it. Looking at it, it looks sound, clean, never dropped and all the reciepts for maintenance. Anyone have any idea of problems that might arise with buying such a high mileage bike?
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'87 with 60K miles. not all the time but 2 times in the past three weeks, I will start off my first run of the day and about 3 miles into it, the Oil indicator comes on. It lasts about 15 seconds. Just long enough to get scared then it goes out. After that.. nothing. I can rev the engine, let it idle down upshift, downshift and the engine is happy. The oil was changed about 1000 miles ago so it's not like i have molasses in the pan. Has anyone seen this? Can I pull the oil sensor and clean it? Any thoughts? That's a false reading I can live without. -
I had a spare windshield in storage for a number of years. It was stored between two pieces of cardboard held together with scotch tape. Is there a easy way to clean the tape off the windshield? A few small strips are being stubborn.
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I was in the process of overhauling the carbs on my 86... I had thown in a heavy dose of SeaFoam and shortly thereafter it started really acting up... but mainly #1 cylinder was really not wanting to fire. I had drained the bowls and took a week or so to get back to them and then broke them apart and opened up #1... and when the fuel bowl cover came of... look what I found in the bottom... http://bergall.org/temp/venture/carb-rust.jpg Yep, that BROWN stuff is rust. Everybody put down your hands... it wasn't the tank. It was from the fuel overflow pipe. Just above the bevel at the top of the picture, the inside of the overflow was coated in rust. #2, #3 and #4 look fine, dull but clean. That tiny idle jet (37.5) looked opaque on all four... rather a light brown, but almost clear... when I tried to blow through them, it didn't work. Seems part of the problem was easy to solve. I also found the enricher diaphragm on #1 had RUST. Now it's the right rear so I thought it would more protected from the elements but that's what I found... It may be a rare case of "Mike gets the good one"... but it's an easy check for you guys that get that filter housing off to pull the overflow lines and look inside! And of course, mine had four totally different lengths of overflow hose... come on... put your hands down... the front carbs take ONE length and the back carbs take ONE length... I have four separates... and one (by golly) seemed to be the right length... the others were varying degrees of too short. And yeah, #1 was the shortest. My day for weird I guess. Nromally I would just soak the jets and bodies in cleaner and then use carb cleaner to blow them out. This time I called around and found a "speed shop" that would ultrasonic clean them and the jets for $20. And believe me... it's a world of difference. What looked like a human hair opening in the tiny jet now looks like you can fit three and everything is CLEAN. Strangely the bath didn't get rid of some of the aluminum oxide where the rack bolts go but everything else was sparkling. The regular motorcycle shops wanted $80-$150 for the bath and blowout... shop around.
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Now that I'm going thru the process of cleaning the carbs with seafoam its time to tackle problem # 2: Brakes Before I took the 84 off the road last year the brakes were spongie and leaked fluid. Now the fluid leaked out somehwere on the handlebar down the side of the fairing. In reading the posts it looks like the next step is to break it all down and flush and clean the entire system First question: do I start high and work towards the back of the bike? When removing the hand lever/resovoir, what's the best way to clean it all? is there some kind of solvent. I read blowing out with air is good too Thanks in advance Jim
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Hey, How does one go about cleaning a K&N air filter without buying their cleaning kit? They say not to use gas, oil, kerosene, tranny fluid, ETC.. Someone said awhile back to use mineral oil to dampen the filter, but didn't mention what he used to clean it. Got one coming due shortly Thankx Gary C
