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Showing results for tags 'bit'.
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I am starting to get a bit concerned about the changes happening in here Avatars are going all weird with the likes of kregadoodle, and cupcake Some folks' posting in pink What is happening to the tone of this place???
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My new to me 2009 RSV has Kuryakin iso grips. When the previous owner installed them he didn't put the original or any replacement handlebar weights back on. Does anyone have a set that they are no longer using? I understand that it's necessary to modify the isogrips a bit (thanks Al) to get them to fit. Thanks
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Hello all, I have decided after some looking around... ok A LOT of looking around that I like this venture bike quite a bit. I am a technician by trade and understand most issues when encountered but I also know that every machine has it's own little quirks that can only be understood by owning and riding. I need to know what (if any) major issues to look for on the 1986 Royale 1300cc (2nd generation?)... at least that is how it's advertised... and am about to drive a long way to check it out! I'm ready to buy, and to own my first full blown touring bike... a bit excited, yet weary at the same time. Any help here? Thanks, Kelly kjp40.05@gmail.com
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I have just purchased a new KOSO GP Style Tachometer with Water Temperature, BA551B23, (first item on page 12 here): http://www.kosonorthamerica.com/ Paid $150, delivered. The idea was to reduce the number of gauges I need by one to fit them all under the dash, like this: [ATTACH]46369[/ATTACH] So far, my report is decidedly mixed. First, the gauge is very impressive in the details of construction and parts supplied. But that is dampened by the absolute WORST Chinenglish - no, let me rephrase that - the documentation that comes with this thing is not NEAR good enough to be even derisively called Chinenglish - let's say Chinengiliberish! Not only is the wording so bad that much of it is totally unintelligible, but a few very key points are absolutely WRONG! The wiring harness is very impressive, with each section connected by plugs. The harness for the water temp sensor is just barely long enough for our bike, but I guess that is better than being too short! The tach input can be picked up by EITHER connecting to a coil or wrapping a wire around a spark plug lead. Compared to the minimal length of the temp sensor wires, the wires for connecting to a coil are plenty long enough to connect to your buddy's machine as he rides next to you on the highway. The gauge mounting hardware is all rubber mounted, and while the bar clamp is specifically sized to use on a normal 7/8" bar, it will work on our 1" bars with a bit of effort. The gauge itself is a bit larger than the 1 7/8" mini Drag Specialties tach which I prefer, but if you get it positioned just right it does fit under the dash at full lock, but just barely! Partially because this gauge is completely electronic, the wire connections are just slightly different than usual - one wire connects to battery hot, and another wire connects to ignition 12V. There is no separate wire for dash lights, so they are on all the time. While this probably makes no difference to most folks, it irks me a bit since I have the other gauges wired separately to a switch specifically for dash lights. Oh well . . . I can learn to live with that. The tach is truly a universal tach, as there are settings to select for both two stroke and four stroke engines, from one cylinder all the way up to 12 cylinders! But you do need quite a bit of imagination to understand what the instructions are trying to tell you about how to set those selections. Likewise, the temperature gauge can be set to display either Celsius or Fahrenheit. Unfortunately, the biggest issue is that the gauge did not work for more than 5 minutes! Everything seemed fine when I first hooked it up and set the proper formats, but the next time I turned the key on, the LCD display (temperature and configuration settings) was completely blank. The tach still seems to work OK, and the lights are on, but I can't get anything from the mode buttons or any display at all on the LCD screen. So now I am waiting to see how much trouble it will be to get this thing replaced. I'll let y'all know how that comes out. Goose
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Screws that hold TCI in place. I used #2 Phillips this morning and it slipped on first try and I quit right there. Don't remember having any trouble with them before. Do the take a special Hong Kong bit?? Tip on valve covers. Do them when you have reason to remove Air box and battery box. Another question. How many put heat sheilds back?? I left them out most times I got in there.
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OK folks. The time is getting near. If you haven't signed up on the calendar yet, please do so. At this time, it shows 159 Yes and 46 maybe. It will really help me to know how much food to order if I could narrow that down just a bit. If you signed YES and your plans have changed, please go back and remove your name. If you signed MAYBE but now know for sure, please remove your MAYBE if you are not going to attend and remove it and add YES if you are. Thanks Much. Here is the link to the calendar page. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/calendar.php?do=getinfo&e=153&day=2010-6-19&c=1
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Hi, Here is a link to the map of a route I have in mind for a day long ride around part of SE Ontario some time this summer. The motivation, besides getting some saddle time, stems from a nostalgic desire to relive a bit of my childhood by making a crossing aboard the Glenora Car Ferry. See the blue section between C and D on the map. I can't believe that these old boats still run and want to get one more trip in while I can. As long as the weather cooperates, its a very pleasant and scenic crossing of about 15 minutes duration. (I might even park the bike once across and do another round trip on foot just for the fun of it) Any one interested to join me for all or part thereof? I am planning to go on a week day, since I have time off available and dislike weekend traffic. Other than that, I am flexible as to dates and open to suggestions, although SWMBO will, of course, have the ultimate veto power on any proposed dates. Also be aware that I am planning on an early start, somewhere in the 06:00 time slot I think. A rain date should be factored into the mix also in case of a washout of the primary date. Notice, I have deliberately avoided any 401 travel as its not what I am interested in but it might make a quick escape route should anyone need or want it once the main attraction is done. In general, I am planning a leisurely ride and will not be speeding, too much. I'll likely stop and do a bit of a look around Picton, lunch there is in my mind but I'll see how the time goes and how grumbly my tummy gets on the day. What do you say folks ? Brian H.
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Hi, Was browsing ebay the other day and came across this Turns out its a local firm who say they make SS brake lines to order. I emailed and asked for a quote on a full set x 2 of first gen SS brake lines, since a cursory read of the ebay description implies that they have bike specific knowledge related to XVZ13's. They say though, that they don't have ANY bike specific info, and I'll have to order everything a la carte so to speak. A bit misleading but OK I didn't read far enough down. Not wanting to re invent the wheel, I looked in the tech library for a list or description of some kind describing all the requisite brake hoses and fittngs, but I don't find one. Have I missed it? Is there such a thing already compiled in some kind someone's private archives who'd like to share? If so, it would save me a bit of work and would be a great thing to post in the tech section. Thanks, Brian H. -
Ok folks, I need some help.. I just got my set of passenger Highway pegs from Diamond R Accessories for the Misses.. I attemped to remove the rear Hex screw and ended up stripping the head, so I got out my "easy outs". Well the heads of the factory screws are pretty soft and the easy out just ate into it.. Ok now I'm getting a bit pissed off so I get a extractor bit and drilled a pilot hole and try it.. NO LUCK !! My question is, wha't my next course of attack ?? Thanks 06 RSTD
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I'm still riding with my Bell helmet and the liner isn't removable so, given I sweat at a stoplight, the old brain bucket is getting bit pungent. Tried some carpet deodorant and some baking soda, neither helped much. Anybody found a product that works for this?
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A friend is doing some live streaming online tonite...he'd appreciate it if some listeners would please tune in and post here how it sounded...his name is Dusty and he is using the same software combination I use when I run the show in our chatroom. The URL is: http://64.218.114.222:8000/listen.m3u You can either click this link or right click and open in your favorite player. He's playin some classic rock, and a little bit of other stuff thrown in for good measure. You dont have to listen long if you dont want to...were just trying to see how the feed will do. Thanks!
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I read somewhere on the fourm that the only real rule was to post pictures of your ride so I thought I would follow rules and show off tanto. I've had him for about a year and I don't know a whole lot about him, but I hope to learn some stuff here. It seems to me (from looking at other 96's) that theres quite a bit of aftermarket chrome on him, would I be right? And is are the seats and sissy bar stock or aftermarket? Also, I'm pretty sure those wheels are aftermarket right? Also I posted a picture of my other bike, which is a Suzuki Intruder 805 http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad19/fsatatkid/th_royalstar1.jpg http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad19/fsatatkid/th_royalstar2.jpg http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad19/fsatatkid/th_suzuki.jpg http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad19/fsatatkid/th_royalstar.jpg
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Did a bit of work on my bike this weekend. Installed the Diamond R leveling links. Have to say this was the easiest mod I have ever done. When I removed the old and compared them to the new, thought there must have been a mistake because there isn't much difference between the two. Until you drive it. Kinda crazy how a 1/4" difference makes the front end seem so much lighter. And now I can look over the windshield no problem. And I didn't even have to remove any thing to change them out. Did a carb sync and once again am amazed at how simple and quick it is to do. A shame that the dealer charges anything for this. This would be a procedure that they could do as a courtesy, not lose much on it and build a ton of good will. Did a clutch fluid change, the old was getting a bit dark, so chaned it out and got a bit more lever out of the clutch and not as big a thunk going into gear. Good times working on the bike. As soon as my HID headlight gets here I'll have something else to work on.
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Hi, I have had the front brake lever / master cyl assembly off my red bike to fit a new sight glass. The brake worked fine before this, so I know all is well except that I have let a bit of air in up top. After re assembly, I have air in the system and soft lever action but I know its all up top at the reservoir end. Whats the simplest way to re prime the master cylinder in this case? (Sorry for what might be a well addressed question, but I am under the gun a bit as my temporary permit for this bike expires after tomorrow and I have to get it to the inspection station before then or legally it becomes a paper weight. They seem to think front brakes are important.) Thanks, Brian H.
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Well, I finally got around to changing out the plugs. Only 10 k on the 07 RSTD but the book calls for change at 8k. Called several shops; they wanted to charge between $100 and $125 plus parts---wow! Went down to local auto supply and a purchased 4 new plugs for a bit over $10. Took off the tank and was able to get at the plugs--not too bad at all! She actually started right off----
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I try do do things to my skuter, that makes it a bit different from others... with that said, here is my latest addition in the "quest for more chrome" the lower fairing on the 2nd gens are made of a clear thick plastic, and they take quite a few hits with the bugs and rocks and such, and after a few years and a multitude of miles, they start to look a bit tacky. i took a new set of lowers and had them chrome plated, inside and out, then automotive grade clear coating added to help hold the shine. whadya think?? mike
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I find that the rear lights are a bit dim... How can I make them brighter?
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I've been busy on ebay looking at getting a few things for my RSTD, kind of to personalize it a bit although I must say the fellow that owned before me must have had similar tastes and hasn't left me much to do. But I love the Star Front Fender Ornament and think it would be a nice addition, the only thing is I will have to drill 2 holes in the front fender. I plan on using a new drill bit and tape the fender off where I will be drilling. Are there any other suggestions to prevent any paint chipping etc from occurring or anything else I need to concern myself with?
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I am hoping to tap into the brain trust here once again. I have been working on mounting the passenger arm rests I got from Snaggletooth. I have got that part figured out (photos to be posted later), but, when I tried to put the saddle bags back on, the "posts" were a tiny bit short. I am at work right now and was wondering if there is any adjustments to the length of the mounting posts that go into the slot? Thanks in advance. Dave
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Due to several request to make crash bar braces I've built a limited number of them. Currently there's 6 of them listed in the classifieds but if there's enough demand I'll build more. I built these a bit different than the ones I did in a post 3 years ago. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6069&highlight=crash+supports Simplier and stronger. Here's a link to my ad -- http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2692 Please note that you'll also have to purchase a set of clamps for the crash bars. There are two types to choose from. These from are the best -- http://www.kuryakyn.com/index.cfm/go/Home.ProductDetail/catID/18/scID/121/IMID/531 #1002 or from Dennis Kirk -- http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=494431&store=&catId=&productId=p494431&leafCatId=&mmyId or a 3piece type -- http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=406929&store=&catId=&productId=p406928&leafCatId=&mmyId= or http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=406933&store=&catId=&productId=p406932&leafCatId=&mmyId= I have found both types being sold at e-bay with decent prices in the past as well. Larry Note: The first two pics show the braces and clamps on my bike. The ones I have listed are a bit different at the clamp end but will still do the same job.
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One of my winter projects was to convert all my running and marker lights to LED. I've got my front fender marker and then four double sets in the rear light bar and then four mini Barons on top of the light bar. That's fourteen 194 bulbs alone. I can see the drop on the volt meter when I turn them on. Wanted to get that down a bit. I stopped at about every truckstop and and independent bike shop I came across looking for housings and light assemblies and never really found anything that would make a clean mount or look like it belonged there. Then I found these guys a while back. www.superbrightleds.com Right out of Missouri, USA! I bought a few LEd bulbs with the 194 type wedge base to try and liked what they did. In fact, I had one out of the first batch that was a bit intermitant and I shot them an e-mail and they sent a replacement the next day. No problem at all with their customer service people. These LEDs have voltage range from 5-14.5 volts depending on the LED type and a full selection to cover about any application. You can select the beam pattern, how wide, on most of the styles and luminous intensity for your application also on most. So I ordered everything I needed to do the markers and will get to the dash lights later on. For under $45.00 I got enough to do everything and that included shipping. A whole $5.00 for that. But I took a pic of the rear bar with only two LEDs in the Barons. Should be able to pick them out easy enough. Brought the red back out instead of that orangish color. Betting that my volt meter won't even flinch when I kick all these puppies on. I paid about .96 cents each for the stock 194 bulbs and $1.99 each for the 5 bulb LEDs that went into the Baron. Just read the spec sheets on the LEDs before ordering. The LEDs are bit bigger depending on the application. I ordered three different types for mine to get them to fit. Now if that ain't a poor man fix......what is? Mike
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I took Blu out for a couple hours today and i almost feel human again. I was down to the last fuel bar and still had enough seafoam to cause a let of very smelly smoke. It took a bit to warm up but once it ran a bit, I took to the road. I rode it to the station and filled up. there was just a bit of flutter taking off but after a few min on the interstate, everything smoothed out and she was silk again. I had not ridden it since I had trouble with height and almost dumped it at a stop sign. After Yammer Dan and others helped me through the settings, I got a mud wasp nest out of the shock area and I could flat foot her. I decided to go play in the slow traffic and get used to it. I was amazed that I never had to put my feet down until I was totally stopped. She balanced very well even going really slow. I tried some tight turns. It was no effort to pull into a parking space in an empty lot pull through the spot and u back into the third spot with no problem. As much as I would like a RSV, I hope the guy does not come up with the money this weekend. Thanks for the help guys!
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First time I have seen this upgrade for a 1st Gen, looks like it would provide quite a bit of light........... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Venture-83-85-Halogen-Projector-Light-Upgrade_W0QQitemZ170454829736QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27afe64aa8
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Just wanted to let everybody know that I have repaired the tech article that Squidley had done on installing the auxiliary line splitter on the RSV. It was an excellent article but the photos were linked to a now defunct photobucket account so none of the images were showing up. I have now uploaded all the images are corrected the article to point to their permanent location. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3905 I actually got caught up a bit tonight and had a little time to practice my guitar for a while. I always take it with me when I travel but haven't had much time to play it lately. It sure felt good to pick for a bit.
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http://jimspages.com/States.htm Map of USA Puzzle.. THIS IS NEAT Wonder how a high school senior would do on this one? See how you do in placing the states of the United States Of America .. All you do is look at the top of the page and drag'n'drop the state to where it belongs. Smart map, varies the order of the states' placement with each new try! It isn't easy mostly because placing a state in the precise location when it as yet has no boundaries in place is a bit tricky! No half credit for close but over a tad.... 86% Score 20 mile average error 263 seconds time Gary
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