Jump to content

AZSpyder

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by AZSpyder

  1. Sounds like it took a hit meant for you!
  2. Found an interesting article on the fuzz using louder exhaust. It's seemed funny that it said there was no proof that louder exhaust reduces accidents but it was very clear to me. I had a stock Dynaglide muffler on a Suzuki S40. Not real loud but a bit more then the too quiet stock one. I used to average having someone switch into my lane once a day. With the muffler change it never did end up happening again, though with time eventually some blind moron would have done it. Jerry http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/06/09/BAJB114OUT.DTL&tsp=1
  3. Anybody try making sheep skin to fit. I have a bunch of odd sizes of sheep skin scraps with a few a good size pieces but I can't picture how to attach. If I could just sew I'd love to make new upholstery with sheep skin replacing the pillow padded area. Jerry
  4. Does anyone know for sure this is a 55 amp stator? I couldn't find the specs in the owner's manual but 55 amps is quite a bit. Just for entertainment I totaled all the lights listed in the manual and it is still under 15 amps. There is another 5 amps for the carb heaters and no idea on anything else (ignition, audio, cooling fan, horn, etc.) Still seems like lots of room left if we are dealing with 55 amps. Jerry
  5. Gotta love it!
  6. AZSpyder

    50 mpg (US)

    Sounds like something terribly wrong. Better get it in and have the motor torn down for inspection ASAP! Actually my second generation just did that. Normally I get low 40's, 44 had been my best. I took a trip with the wife last weekend. Did about 75 miles at 25 to 45 MPH depending on the roughness (lots of pot holes and generally trashed surface). Another 75 miles in a 55 to 75MPH speed limits. Got 51MPG on that tank. It was getting hot and running easy. Also, no Ethanol here this time of year here. Jerry
  7. You don't seems to be catching what has been said. Is there someone that can read the posts and tell you what they say? Do you have a friend that knows something about machinery? Maybe you did have five bad final drives. Maybe the swing arm did fix the problem. What you describe the bike doing now, not the last times, not the screaming, not what ever went one before, now, this time, TODAY, sounds like grease.
  8. I missed that response. Maybe the dealer does know about greasing the splines. Maybe they also forgot. Greasing the drive pins weren't even talked about, may they need it. We don't know how loud the noise is. Without that bit of information it does sound like a lack of greasing. The bike doesn't need greasing after every trip, no one said that. It could use it when it is apart. I expect the splines on a new drive would be dry, both the drive shaft side and hub side, nice new and clean. Now, did the mechanic remember? Clean drive into a mating spline using just the grease that was on the mate could last maybe 1500 miles, just to throw a number out. I wouldn't expect it to make it to the next tire change or service. You yourself said a bad drive "screams like a banshee". I have never actually met a Banshee, maybe they make a clicking and grinding noise? Otherwise first off sounds like a screwup installing the drive.
  9. I tried but they are just too small. The just turn into blurs when expanded. Jerry
  10. Just wondering if someone with this group was west bound on Golfllnks on a 1st gen about 5:45 this morning? There was a cop on a 2 wheeler in the traffic too so I didn't get a chance to catch up. Jerry
  11. I turned mine out about 45 degrees. Of course you have to take it all apart to do it. I had mine about 1/2 way back together when I noticed. At least I was much faster the second time. Jerry
  12. It's on other site: http://www.venturers.org/Library_Intro.shtml You can't make a link directly to a artical there but check under the Tech Library. Look for Phases Defined under 2nd gen exhaust. I'm at phase 2 and like it. Jerry
  13. I personally would be cautious go much over on the tire pressure. I took the Dunlop 404 my bike came with to 46 to see how it felt with a passenger. I forgot to drop it back down when I went off to work the next day. When a green light changed with me close enough to brake hard it locked up and I slid through a red light. A few miles later when a light turned green it spun big time off the line without even trying to launch hard. Even feathering the throttle it didn't want to hook up. I dropped the pressure back to the books number before the ride home. I think too much pressure reduces the contact patch and for me really turned dangerous. Jerry
  14. I sure like my little Avon and no problem with real winds. I do find something slight going on that may relate to which direction even the lightest breeze is coming from and having handle bar mounted fairing. I now think the wide front tire was just to hide what the fairing does to the bike. Now for real winds I think the bike may be even better tracking then stock. It doesn't take as much muscle to fight a strong cross wind. Sometimes the desert breezes can get really strong here in Tucson. Recently I had a commute the had winds strong enough that a couple of times I thought the stronger gusts were going to blow me over while waiting at a light. Once I was under way they were nothing to deal with. I think they are also a bit better on the tar snakes then the original Dunlop D404s were. Jerry
  15. My J&Ms have been good for over a year since I got them but my wife doesn't ride a whole lot, maybe 2 dozen times. I don't know if all are alike but mine have a connector maybe 6 inches from the headset. She plugs just the lower cable into the bike before getting on. Once in place connects the upper plug. If whatever type you were using just had the one plug for the connection to the bike it could have stressed the cable trying to plug into the hard to reach connector while seated. Just a shot in the dark not knowing how it was done. Jerry
  16. Maybe not silliness, just the way of the times. If they stuck their neck out at all some low life would find a way to blame them for something just to make some money. We are own our own to find what works best for each of us. It all seemed to start with the moron Nader and his proven incorrect chapter on the Corvar. All he really proved is you don't have to know what your talking about to drag someone through the mud. Jerry
  17. Instructions are on the venturers site, under tech library. The CASS display even goes away on the control head! Jerry http://www.venturers.org/
  18. Dan I have thought about removing the cassette too but seems like I read somewhere of a jumper or need to connect two wires together to get the audio system to behave. I haven't got around to sorting that out. Did you need to do anything to the wiring? Jerry
  19. I don't know about a link but it is easy. I used a Y harness from Radio Shack. The connectors are the same size as whatever you have that fits the aux input next to the cassette player. There are inch and millimeter sizing on the Y harness and I don't remember which it is. I think the choice was 1/4 inch and 3.5 mm. Bring the cord with you. To get to the place to plug it in you need to split the fairing. There is a cord near the right side of the audio system head unit with an in line connector, maybe 6 inches forward of the factory aux jack. The cable is a small diameter like the cable the Y adaptor is made from. Pull the connector apart and insert the Y cable. From there I added an extender, 8 foot I think and ran it under the tank and seats into the trunk. I have a MP3 player on shuffle and just put it in the trunk and let it run. Jerry PS, I type too slow. By the time I got this up Freebird found the link. Very nice article!
  20. Joe Check out the 2nd gen tech pages at this site: http://www.venturers.org/Library_Intro.shtml There are a number of articles on the HD exhaust. I used the "P" clamp mounting. Jerry
  21. Maybe it actually is a twinky. They are cheap at the corner store and worth a try. Jerry
  22. I did the Goose mod. It does help and the price is right. Here is a link to a discussion on the vents. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8570 Jerry
  23. For me that's what I thought but this bike really screwed with my mind. The best thing I could do with it stock was try to get rid of that last couple of miles per hour and get it stopped and feet down before the lean got to far for me to stop. Leveling links and lowered front (one at a time) all helped but the narrow Avon finally did it for me. I took the front drop back out after a week with the Avons. Lighter then I wanted with the narrow tire and the front drop. I have the Ride Like a Pro DVD and took an advanced riding course recently that has given me some fine points to work on but the bike just didn't work for me stock. I love it now, in traffic, in parking lots and picking my feet up even if pulling forward a car length. The thing even likes to turn. The best I could do stock is force a turn and it just didn't feel like it wanted to. Jerry
  24. No wobble on mine though I only have had it up to 95MPH. Not a hint and tracked very nice. If you are a bit short on leg and want to try changing the heavy low speed handling this is a good mod. I tried mine at 1 inch and later 1/2 inch. The 1/2 worked well for me. It's free and for me it was fun learning the bike. I like tinkering with things and I learned my way around the front. Also if you are into the front at all check your steering bearings. Mine were a bit loose and adjusting them also help the low speed control. Jerry
  25. I don't think there is much difference in unit operations but motorcycle intended units may be the way to go. Water proof would be good but sunlight readable display is worth thinking about. I have been using a Garman auto unit since I already have it. The navigation is great wondering around the blue roads but it is hard to see in the sun. I see motorcycle units advertised a easy to see but I haven't tried one myself. Jerry
×
×
  • Create New...