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AZSpyder

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Everything posted by AZSpyder

  1. AZSpyder
    Bar I sure couldn't say one way or another about sport bikes. Overall the influence seems to be on steering caster angle and trail. When I was messing with it I was amazed on how responsive the bike is on what looked like minor adjustment. When I was running the front lowed 1 inch I would normally ride one up with no air in the rear shock and it was nice easy handling. With air in the back keeping the rear height up and still one up it was very light handling, just about too much for me. Thats when I went to 1/2 inch down in the front. What ever I have the suspension set to I ride no air so the rear will settle some helping with my reach. No good at all with a passenger. Maneuvers like a pig with a passenger and no air. This part got me thinking. Do you air up the shock when you have a passenger? Jerry
  2. AZSpyder
    Bar I didn't see mention of how tall you are. I have tried the "leveling links" that raise the back, tried a lowing kit on the back, lowered the front both 1/2 inch and 1 inch and a narrower front tire. Lots of fun seeing what worked for ME. Raising the back with the leveling links really does lighten up the handling. They don't raise the back much but they really do make a difference. I also had a bit of a reach to the ground at stock height and the links just made me more uncomfortable holding it up. For my height lowering the front helped with the low speed and its free (if you have access to a motorcycle jack). I scraped the boards a little more but wasn't that much of a difference. I put a kit on to lower the back 1 1/2 inch. A lot more comfortable at a stop but it was noticeably slower maneuvering. At the moment I'm running the narrow front tire and stock height suspension. Jerry
  3. AZSpyder
    My only plan so for is to ride. Temperature is down to 74 at the moment but a bit breezy. Just got back from a short ride with nowhere in particular to go. Jerry
  4. AZSpyder
    Dragonslayer, thanks for sharing. Heard many stories about people that have had experiences like that but they had been strangers and maybe fictional. Maybe there is hope. Jerry
  5. AZSpyder
    First bike: A Hodaka Ace 100 stripped for the dirt. Simple, light and easy to work on. First street bike: 1966 Honda 305 Scrambler. Heavy but lots of soul. First new bike: 1975 CZ 250 Enduro. The only thing I could afford at the time. $550 in a crate. Still have it but the lighting is rebuilt but not installed. Been thinking of getting it back on the street. Jerry
  6. AZSpyder
    Is it just the 1800 Goldwing that has the louder horns or would they be the same on some of the other models? Jerry
  7. AZSpyder
    I used the pillow type one from Diamond R. It is aso a good match for the later RSV. It's the one described as "Overstuffed". Jerry
  8. AZSpyder
    Worked for me. Nice selection of crash videos down below along with one that seems to be just passenger seat examples. Jerry:thumbsup2:
  9. AZSpyder
    There is also this site. Jerry
  10. AZSpyder
    My only experience is 7000 miles on the stock Dunlops and 6000 on Avons with a narrow front. I got used to the light feel and really like that the bike really likes to turn. The bike feels alive. The roll rate is much faster without having to muscle the handle bars so much. I did notice the front will slip easier when pulling a U turn on gravel. I may try the stock size in an Avon next time just for a good comparison. Jerry
  11. AZSpyder
    Looks like someone got a 99 Venture to do 13.65. Would a RSTD be a bit faster being a bit lighter or is the Venture better at top end drag with a fairing to break the wind? Should be close. Jerry
  12. AZSpyder
    I was looking at one not long ago. If Honda still made a 1200 I would have never gotten the Venture. I wanted a clean low miles one but the wife said no way to touring on a 25 year old bike and made me get the Venture. As for myself I had no fear of a older Honda. The only thing that worried me was a reputation for the stator going bad. If not loosing the charging system a few states from home isn't bad enough you have to pull the engine to change it. Years ago an improved stator was available. Don't know how to tell if it had been done. There is also a mod out there called "The poor boy stator mod". It involved adding a small automotive alternator to the front of the engine. Even with the stator issues I would have gotten it if it were up to just me. Jerry
  13. AZSpyder
    The best pressure will be up to you. For me I run zero by myself. My legs are short enough that I like the little bit the back end settles when I get on. I do figure it is the opposite of putting the links on the back raising it for lighter handling. I find it is lighter if I keep some air in the back but with the smaller front tire it is still good enough for me and I don't have any bottoming issues. I find the bike is much heavier handling with a passenger and the back end down. I dropped it the first time I had my wife on it and no air (and only 7 miles on the clock). Went by Yamaha for a pump and they didn't know what I was talking about. I ended up with one from Harley for about $44 out the door. After experimenting I run from 25 to 35 PSI in the rear depending on the road. 25 is good enough for the load but sometimes the suspension will run out of travel on the big bumps. You will be able to feel it when that happens and just put in a bit more. Jerry
  14. AZSpyder
    How's your tire pressure? May be higher then needed. Thats about the only time mine get choppy. I still have never tried air in the forks. I run just enough in the back to keep it from bottoming, usually 25-35 pounds. The two of us weigh about the same as the two of you. Some of the cattle crossings here show me if I have too little. Jerry
  15. AZSpyder
    If you do run out remember there may be some in the right side of the tank still. If you need to make it a little farther try to slosh some to the left. Jerry
  16. AZSpyder
    OK, one more idea. I took a look at what a "Modulite" is. Never messed with a lighting adaptor that prevents loading on the tow vehicle light, at least if your is like the one I saw on line. I suspect you would also have your problem if the Modulite didn't have a good connection to the battery, through a fuse of course. Jerry
  17. AZSpyder
    Sounds straight forward enough. The running lights work, the brake lights work and the turn signals work. Break lights on and the turn signal doesn't keep flashing, you have a bad module or a bad ground going to the module! If you had a ground problem with the trailer you would see things like other lamp elements coming on dimly as the current goes across the other side of a dual element bulb to find another way to ground. The module would need a ground from somewhere to be able to switch the voltage on and off when both the brake and turn signal are on. The module should mix the separate turn signal and brake lights on the bike to a single combo brake/turn signal. When you have turn signal 12 volt blinking on and off into the module it should turn off the continuous break light voltage going through the module and blink the voltage instead. Jerry
  18. AZSpyder
    There was a thread around here on the big rig oil. If I remember correctly it is blended for high shear strength due to the high pressures in the valve train of the big engines. The owners manual metions what additives you can't use. From the manual for my 07: API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA. Do not use diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality then specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENGERY CONSERVING II" or higher. The jug of Rotella dino I have sitting around seems to meet all of the requirements. For that matter so does many of the automotive oils on the shelf. Add that it (I think) carries the higher shear strength and about half the price of motorcycle oils it will work for me. After reading that report it also sounds like what I will be using in a semi high performance small block Chevy I hope to get done some day. Motorcycle oil blended for more intermittent use is something I hadn't hear of before but it would be a good idea. At least the no riding season is short around here, just have to wait for the temperatures to get under 110. Jerry
  19. AZSpyder
    I have seen every type of AHRMA vintage racing except roadracing. Great time around friendly people. I sure wish this one was a bit closer. At a local track you could set up a tent in the parking lot during the AHRMA event and spend a great three day weekend there. I always considered MX racers to be a bit on the nuts side but that AHRMA bunch have had me considering competing with my CZ. Jerry
  20. AZSpyder
    My Toyota truck calls for 7500 miles normal use or 5000 miles heavy use (off road or towing). I use the 5000 mile even though it dosen't see much of the heavy use. Wife's Scion has a 5000 mile maintenance reminder that flashes a few time when you first start the car or stays on steady with 7500 miles since reset. I understand there is a push in Europe to go to 12000 mile/12 month. Jerry
  21. AZSpyder
    There may be variations in the 3 prong flashers. The ones I have worked with have been a ground one of the pins along with 12 volts in and out to the lamp. The connection to the bulb in the center of the three. The two side ones vary on which is power and ground with at least two different series. Here is a nice little article with flasher part numbers. Jerry
  22. AZSpyder
    Never had a Harley but always wanted a 60's ElectraGlide, but then I like odd things. Sure would make a nice weekend bike It would be the Venture to actually go places. For now I need to hold at the three bikes I already own including the one that I have never even see run. Jerry
  23. AZSpyder
    First there should be a fuse right off the battery. Your risking a fire without one. The blinker should be next between the fuse and the switch. Otherwise if is after the switch you will need two. One in the circuit going to the left lights another to the right lights. A standard blinker needs to have the current of two or more good lamps going through it. The basic relay type use the heat from the lamp current to open and close. Not blinking with low current is a designed in function. They are intended to stop blinking when a lamp burns out. The steady turn indication on your cars dash is an indication of the burned out light. Check for a "heavy duty" solid state flasher at your local hobby type auto parts store. It should carry a warning on the package with something to do with your burned out lamp indication will no longer work with that flasher. If you used a decent size wire I don't understand the heat. Check to be sure there are no shorts and you have the correct pin of the flasher grounded. Hope this helps. Jerry
  24. AZSpyder
    Here is some more on the bike. Jerry
  25. AZSpyder
    No helmet, lucky he didn't mash his mellon on that beast. From time to time I have looked at electric vehicles. The technology is there now that would cover my commute but the price stinks. I had looked at some of the stories on that bike on the net. It is very impressive. Would be a neat simple to maintain toy to have fun on the drag strip with. Jerry
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