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AZSpyder

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Everything posted by AZSpyder

  1. AZSpyder
    Wild guess...... maybe the wiring for the set switch shorted to the kill switch. I don't know if the 1st gens were the same but if so may be worth opening up the right switch assembly and checking for pinched wires. Jerry
  2. AZSpyder
    I think I found something. Check out the link, starting with the 6th posting. I didn't have the time to try and see if the information is usable but there is a bunch of information. Jerry http://www.clubsaxo.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=113001
  3. AZSpyder
    That Ipod interface is for the CeNET Bus. I am sure no expert but I think that is the later type bus. The Yamaha system uses the C-Bus. I think they are completely different animals but I hope someone can prove me wrong. This sure looks like a nice interface. I have looked at this a bit before. I understand a little on serial data communication buses but I was never able to find the format information on the C-Bus. Jerry
  4. AZSpyder
    For me the 1st advantage is not having to keep the cassette door open. I also setup the trunk for the MP3 since I figure I wouldn't be able to work the little buttons on mine while riding anyway. Along with a splitter I got a long headphone jack extender. It was a bit of work having to remove the tank, seats and panel on the front of the trunk but works great for me. Jerry
  5. AZSpyder
    I tried mine velcroed to the handlebars. Discovered that along with not being able to read the display in sunlight well there was no way I was going to be able to control it on the road. Buttons way too small for me. Also worried about rain or dropping it. I ended up putting it in the trunk. Ran a audio extension cord under the seats and tank into the fairing. Connected into the aux input with an Y harness so the cassette door stays closed. Not being able to change songs isn’t too bad in use since it is at least its like my own radio station with no talking. Jerry
  6. AZSpyder
    Leonard I’m not positive but I think the leveling links may have been better for the low speed handling. It is very close. The leveling links do allow more cornering clearance but cause even more trouble if the bike is a bit too tall. In my opinion go with the leveling links if you have the reach, drop the front if you don’t (or you are cheap, the front is free). If you don’t do either watch the rear shock pressure. My bike was worse on the handling if the back drops with a load, like two up. It got very slow responding at low speed. Did a lot of S turning starting off. Jerry
  7. AZSpyder
    Check out this thread for a discussion. In that there is a link to the "how to" Jerry http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7530
  8. AZSpyder
    I dabbled with different heights for the bike. The bike is much easier to control at low speeds with the leveling links lifting the back a bit. Once stopped I was having more trouble with the reach to the ground. I removed the links and lowered the front an inch and the bike is again easier to handle at low speeds and easier to reach the ground. I personally suggest you try lowering the front up to an inch and see what you think. I then tried lowering the back almost and inch. I liked the reach even better but found the low speed responsiveness going away. With a passenger I was getting a bit of hunting back and forth and it just didn’t seem to want to hold a line. Now I’m back to stock in the back and down an inch in the front. This is the best for what I was trying for and will be staying here. Of course peoples tastes vary. Just remember that both ends can be adjusted, try it all and I’m sure you can make the bike what you like. Also other owners have mentioned having the seat modded to make it lower or narrower to help. Jerry
  9. AZSpyder
    Absolutely use a fuse, unless he wants to see just how much energy a battery can put into a short. If something should short or overload the outlet the heat on the wire can get hot enough to damage steel, melt plastic or just start a fire and let the gas in the tank finish the work. Fuses are cheap. Also keep the fuse as close to the battery as possible. Any wire between the battery and fuse would not be protected. It is very important that any direct battery side wire be well protected from damage. Jerry
  10. AZSpyder
    Very interesting thought. I have a 650 single that has a bunch more top end noise with a windshield on. I was thinking that since the Clearview is raked back a bit it might direct the noise differently. Does anyone here with a Clearview have any thoughts? Mine has the noise but I don’t know if it is one of the loud ones or not. I like the sound of the exhaust and at some speeds and light throttle you could hardly hear it over the chirp. I did notice it is louder as the day gets hotter. During the cold winter days, cold for Tucson anyway, it was very quiet. Winter may vary from high 30’s to mid 60’s. Now that it’s summer the lows are in the mid 70’s to 106 on the ride home. I felt sorry for those of you that couldn’t ride in the winter but now we are paying for it. I don’t care to ride above 106 and it hit 111 yesterday. The thing seems to be getting quite loud above 100. I stopped by to talk with the service manager at the local shop the other day (The high was forecasted as 108 that day so I didn’t take the bike to work). He had some experience with the issue but found it, like many of you have said, just changed the speed the noise appeared at. He did offer to ride the bike any time I like to see if it is an unusual level of the normal noise. He did offer one possibility that I haven’t seen mentioned here. He suggested trying 20-50 weight oil. Since I had already seen mine as a temperature related problem it seems to be worth a try. My next service point is about 1000 miles away and I’m going to try it then. I had my first good ride with stage 1 modified Road King mufflers mounted. The exhaust now sounds great even above the 100+ degree chirp so I have a partial fix already. Jerry
  11. AZSpyder
    Thanks Brad! Carl For the other half of my 2 cents worth...referencing the 3rd page of the wiring diagram .pdf. it’s worth checking the grounding at: Item 90, the riders remote controller unit but maybe even more so at item 91, the remote controller box. This is going on that you already checked the amp item 79. Item 80, the tuner is sort of interesting in that it shows it as sharing the amps ground. It also seems odd that there is no ground at what seems to be the passengers headset unit, item 85. I would have expected a ground at what is suspect is a remote volume control but I really don't know just what that circuit looks like. If the noise could be at all matched to engine speed changes it would be worth checking item 76, the filter. Other then that there is always checking all the connections. Jerry
  12. AZSpyder
    Anybody have a link to a wiring diagram for an 85?
  13. AZSpyder
    I've seen similar problems with bad grounds, either power or audio ground. Maybe check for something loose, touching good sometimes, sometimes not. I don't know what your system looks like but possibly even the case of something trying to find ground when screwed down onto a painted part. You may want to see that whatever the main unit is that it is grounded good, maybe even with a wire attaching its case to the frame or negative side of the battery. It this audio system stock on the 1st gens? I don’t know a thing about those antiques but I wouldn’t mind looking at the design. Jerry
  14. AZSpyder
    I have been getting poor results after I bought some new filters. They don't seem to filter as well as the one that came with it. I have been getting great results wiping it down with a microfiber towel after washing. It works on the windshield and makes the painted and chrome parts spot free. I picked up a bunch of 16 inch square ones on Ebay. About $15 delivered for 20 (two orders of 10). They are washable but I have only been able to get two of them dirty. Jerry
  15. AZSpyder
    Here is a thread on lowering the front: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=939&highlight=lower+front I thought it was easy enough and helped me a lot. It the bike really fits me now without doing the back and its free! Jerry
  16. AZSpyder
    Fuel, spark and compresson will at least get some sort of fire. I don't know if these things ever pop a cam chain or experiance some other sort of silly failure. Maybe its worth a compression check. Jerry
  17. AZSpyder
    Has anyone been able to compare the Stebel and the Harbor Freight Wolo Bad Boy horn? Its just two blocks away and on sale again. I have my doubts about any horn being able to hit 139dB but I have no doubt the Stebel is very loud from all the postings on this thread. The bad boy is rated at 118dB but may be measured differently. Jerry
  18. AZSpyder
    Sounds like a good idea, just placed the order. Thanks Jack it up Jerry
  19. AZSpyder
    One way or the other I am going to try the leveling links. Now I am trying to figure out if I should make or buy them. Going by the link on making them is doesn’t seem too hard. There was a post somewhere in this group that Diamond R’s may be made of stainless. That could make a difference to me. Can anyone confirm the material used by Diamond R? Has anyone had trouble making them from the information here? Thanks Low Rider Jerry
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