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dingy

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Everything posted by dingy

  1. dingy
    Been there, done that, didn't get the shirt. Front brakes much better than the stock 83.s. I also swapped the rear set up for an MKII setup, but I am not real impressed with the rear unit. I changed the rear master to an MKII and that may have been a mistake when delinking. I have a VMax rear master I may try if I get around to it. Rear MKII is to big a dia. bore for the one rear caliper and doesn't produce enough PSI to grab good. VMax is smaller bore. If you do change rear setup there is a mod that must be done to rear brake mount arm. Not much to it other than rebuilding forks, might as well put in a set of seals while they are laying on the bench. Couple of write ups in the tech forum. Bleeding the front brakes was a major PIA. Rear and clutch was easy. Get a set of speed bleeders for the calipers. I have seen it recommended that the wearing faces of the rotors be bead blasted to remove glazing. Easy to do if you are swapping them and have access to bead blaster. You will need at least the lower fork tubes from an 86-93, both rotors and calipers from an 86-93 or if you are feeling lucky, a set from an R1 Yamaha. The lower tubes are different on the 86-87's (anti dive on front, 88-93 they are on the side.) If you put progressive springs in, get rid of the anti-dives. They are basically useless on a good stock set of forks springs let alone progressives. Skydoc17 has block off plates to eliminate them and the current draw. Might as well delink the brakes and put S.S. lines on. If you delink, the rear master is OK, but you will want to change the front master to a 5/8" bore. I just posted a comparison chart on the caliper/master ratios below. Techy type stuff, but enlightening. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60986 If you are into red, I would sell my MKII front calipers. Good pads & rebuilt last spring. Powder coated bright red. I have a set of R1's that are going on. Also anti dives are available, they are powder coated black. Gary
  2. dingy
    Is this what you need? PM me if it is. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/DSC02118.jpg
  3. dingy
    It is defiantly not stock. Gary
  4. dingy
    Another shot of the date code. Didn't see the other picture posted till I went out in garage got a decent picture after 6 tries then came back in. Heck with it, after that I'm posting it. Not easy getting a decent shot of black on black . This is from an Avon Venom I got a few weeks ago from Jake Wilson. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/tiredatecode.jpg
  5. dingy
    Check with Skydoc17 and/or RandyR Gary
  6. dingy
    Good luck, I know the unemployment feeling from last year. It sucks. Gary
  7. dingy
    One of the interesting discussions that has been on here in the past has been the braking ability of the Ventures and the relative effects of items such as swapping caliper/rotor/master cylinders and the benefits of de-linking the first gens. I came across an article on another site which is linked below discussing the ratios between the master cylinder area and the caliper area and the effects on braking. http://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm I created a chart that shows some of various Yamaha bikes and these related calculations for anyone that is interested. There is a screen picture attached as well as the excel spreadsheet if you want to experiment with various combinations. Bottom of chart also shows calculations for de-linking brakes on a 1st gen. Explanation of the numbers shown: Master Cyl dia: The I.D. of the front or rear master cylinder bore Master Cyl. Area: The area of the I.D. of the master cyl. Piston Dia. A: The I.D Of the 1st piston bore or only piston bore in a 2 piston setup Piston Dia. B: The I.D Of the 2nd piston bore, only shown in a 4 piston setup Piston area A: The area of the piston bore of piston A Piston area B: The area of the piston bore of piston B (if used) Total Caliper Piston area: Total area of the pistons in a caliper assembly Rotor Dia.: O.D. of the brake rotor Ratios are expressed as : Piston area/master cyl area:1 (numbers shown in graph do not have the :1 shown. Didn't know how to do that in excel 2003) If you find any errors in this, let me know & I will correct. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/ratiospreadsheetpicture3.jpg
  8. dingy
    Is this an overlay for the face of the speedo/tach faces or a colored transparent plastic that would attach to the face of the plexiglass cover? Pulling the needles of off the gauges to install an overlay on them could be a hit or miss action. Gary
  9. dingy
    Sent you enough to get a decent meal tonight. Maybe a beer or two. Gary
  10. dingy
    That was my Jabs, Digs, and Pokes effort for this afternoon. And yes on the no caps thing, don't care about the shouting, it's hard to read. That's why I make my type large and double spaced, so older people from WV can read it. Gary
  11. dingy
    I don't think you should use different shims combination on the two sides. The faces should be machined perpendicular to the axis on each mating surface. The shimming process is to compensate for machining tolerance variations between parts. Helical cut bevel gears are a tough item to machine so there is going to be an acceptable manufacturing tolerance to keep the cost within reason. The way to then compensate for a reasonable tolerance is to shim the parts. I do see the part about checking it at 90 deg points which would seem to indicate there could be an axial run out, but I do not see any mention of compensating for this by staggering the shim pack make-up. By checking the 90 deg quadrants, a worn bearing or bent shaft may become apparent. I attached the 86-93 cut for the middle drive gear setup if anyone would like to read it and comment. Gary
  12. dingy
    Well isn't that special. Gary http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv72/dingy1010/caps-lock-1.jpg
  13. dingy
    That's what I was able to do with mine today at the grocery store. Clerk used card and applied the $25 towards it, then I paid balance with my regular card. Gary
  14. dingy
    Fairly certain you need this switch in place to get turn signals working. Unless you do some extensive mods to wiring. Clean contacts good and also check connection into the 41R relay near headlight. Big unit, about 1" x 3" x 4 1/2 or so. This box contains the start circuit and the flasher/cancel circuits. Called Flasher Relay Assy on schematics. 9 wires going into it. Also check fuses and see that they are all 4 are tight on both ends in the fuse box. A hazard switch from an 84-93 will work. Not an 83, they are totally different. Here is a link to schematics if that will help you. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary
  15. dingy
    Depends where it's leaking. You could try putting some soapy water on the two rear end air hose connections and see if they leak. One on compressor is easy to get at, one on top of shock will be a bit harder. There also may be a junction point in the rear line. Follow the air line to find it. There is an o-ring on each of the compressor ports, maybe one is bad or missing. Gary
  16. dingy
    This is an ebay item # for a set of 8mm wires. # 160606108106 Vendor ID spiritusantu They will fit in place of the stock 7mm wires. I had them on my bike all last year. Gary
  17. dingy
    Pay attention. The man has an RSV. Anything helps it go faster. Gary
  18. dingy
    Said something about not being able to pay at the pump with it. Also was a procedure if you used it at a restaurant, they had to take other form of payment that was in excess of Card amount and process it first then apply the exact amount that was on the card. Just read paperwork that came with card and it must be processed as a signature based credit card. Any purchase that exceeds the amount on the card will be declined. So it sounds like you need to pay the amount of bill down to $25 or $50 depending on amount on your card with cash. Then have merchant process card for the remaining amount (or less). Scanned usage rules, attached below. Gary
  19. dingy
    I didn't think the 83's had a CB in them from the factory. I could be wrong though. I would believe your 83 has been modified at some point. But, since neither of mine had a CB, I don't know about the PTT switch. I do know that the MKII's (86-93) had a PTT switch in the left handlebar switch housing on the front surface. Gary
  20. dingy
    You will be alright with adding a moderate amount of lights. Below is rated current draw for an 1157 bulb. Model-- Filament --Volts------Watts--- Amps----CP-- Life 1157 -----Low-High --14.0-12.8--8.26-26.88--0.59-2.10--3-32---5000/1200 You have 4 low wattage bulbs on the on the tail light circuit. Two in front turn signals & the two rear in the tail light. Each filament is rated at .59amps * 4 = 2.36 amp draw.There is a 10 amp fuse in the Tail circuit and that is all I see on this circuit. Turn signal bulbs are on signal circuit, and appears the brakes are on the signal circuit fuse. Check the glass fuses in the fuse block and see if they are tight in the clips on both ends. If they are not, you need to replace the fuse block. Bending the clips will almost always break them completely off. Here is a link to a kit Skydoc 17 has made up to replace fuse box if you have to. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3231&title=first-gen-fuse-box-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 Here is a link to wiring diagrams for the bike. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary
  21. dingy
    When you replaced ends, did you put the end on the bike side that only had 1 exposed pin? This should be the ground pin and wouldn't blow a fuse if it contacted something. The other 4 pins should be shielded by the rubber housing & difficult to contact frame with. Gary
  22. dingy

    Women

    dingy posted a topic in Jokes and Humor

    WOMEN A real woman is a man's best friend. She will never stand him up and never let him down. She will reassure him when he feels insecure and comfort him after a bad day. She will inspire him to do things he never thought he could do; to live without fear and forget regret. She will enable him to express his deepest emotions and give in to his most intimate desires. She will make sure he always feels as though he's the most handsome man in the room and will enable him to be the most confident, sexy, seductive and invincible... No wait...Sorry. I'm thinking of whiskey. It's whiskey that does all that crap. Never mind.
  23. dingy
    Dan, Are you feeling OK???? You posted in a thread about a carb problem and didn't mention SEAFOAM ???? Did you sell your stock???? Gary
  24. dingy
    Here is link to try & fix the class controller. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=493 To fix/disable the battery warning light get a 1000 ohm (or close) resistor. Disconnect the probe that goes into the battery, solder resistor to lead that probe was connected to. Hook other end of resistor to 12v+. DO NOT HOOK TO 12V+ WITHOUT RESISTOR. Yes it's in caps & I was shouting. If you do, you will very possibly (absolutely, positively) smoke the CMU (dash computer). http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=489 As far as crickets, like Carl said, these bikes are happy above 4K. They don't even start breathing good till then. I know redline is 7,500, It ain't gonna break if you get close to that. My 1200 would hit about 8,300 before valves started floating. I have a similar motor now (1300), better heads on it and I have hit 9,500 on it many times. Gary
  25. dingy
    You open the post that you want to link to, highlight it in the browser address bar, (right click and hold right button down in address bar and drag cursor till all text is highlighted) then press ctrl-c (or right click in address bar press ctrl-a, this will highlight every thing, then press ctrl-v) Open a new post in another thread, click in message area and press ctrl-v Otherwise known as copy & paste This is windows way, not sure about the Mac-Nuts guys. Gary
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