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MiCarl

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Everything posted by MiCarl

  1. There is a difference between unsteady vacuum and the normal rapid pulsing that occurs in the intake. You need a restriction (near the vacuum port) and a significant volume (long hose) between the restricter and the gauge to damp the oscillations.
  2. Everything has a cost associated with it. When you go to the dealer he has a nice facility on a prime piece of real estate. He has items in inventory so you can have it right away. Hopefully he has a warm body to assist you with your purchase. He also likely has a cute gal greeting you at the front door. The store is staffed 60-72 hours per week so a warm body is there when you want them. All of those things cost him money and get rolled into the price of your purchase. Online sellers have a warehouse in the cheap section of town (assuming they have any inventory at all). Everything is packed so tight you couldn't see one item from another if you were in there. The lighting will be minimal and there will be no extravagances like windows. They are probably only staffed 40 hours (or less) per week to ship and recieve merchandise. Their customer service may well be outsourced to some place that pays their people $4/week and lets them eat every other Thursday. Those kind of facilities cost much less and that reduction is passed along in the lower price of the item. Most people are not willing to pay for excellent service. That's why the country is buried in Wal*Mart stores and the mom and pop shops are gone. Of course most love to complain about the poor service they get from bargain outlets. They should have sent you a more polite response. It's a safe bet though that the flunky who does them has to do sixty or more an hour. He probably got beat up the day before for only doing 59. As far as sale prices go - Motorcycle Superstore did not necessarily make $35 more on your purchase. It's entirely possible the manufacturer or distributor offered them an incentive that was not in place when you placed your order. I regularly get calls that offer me sweet deals if I place orders for large quantities of an item. My
  3. It's not normal (unless you're going up a steep hill, strong headwind, lots of weight). Almost certainly fuel system. Most likely carburetors. The fact that you are trying to "blow out" your jets is a pretty good indication that you know of a carburetor problem.
  4. Motorcycle transmissions are very difficult to shift when things aren't moving. The different relative motions of the gears in the gearbox let the tabs and slots slide together to engage. When it's stationary the transmission will only shift if everything happens to be perfectly aligned. Attempting to shift while rocking and working the clutch will often let you get to that next gear. It's entirely possible that in 2nd gear you didn't have enough leverage to turn the engine through a compression stroke. It's also possible that he has a leaking float valve and it filled a cylinder with gasoline while he was parked and hydro-locked it. I would pull the spark plugs and try to push start it (kill switch off) to clear the engine of any pooled fuel. Of course if he has a cylinder full of fuel he needs an oil change too. The noise you described sounds like failed starter clutch though. Very common on the early Viragos I understand. It doesn't have a "bendix", but a clutch behind the rotor just like on the Ventures. Oh, the clutch is a one way affair. Even if the starter was stuck you should be able to push start it.
  5. Been there, done that, chose the wrong time to glance down at a switch - loaded the Venture on the trailer for the haul home myself. Glad I was wearing the gear. The armor may or may not have prevented breaking my arm and shoulder when I struck the car. The broken engine side cover and toes that hurt for six months tell me that the heavy leather riding boots were just barely enough to prevent serious injury to my foot. The front of my full face helmet speaks volumes about what the pavement would have done to my face. We all make mistakes. Every time one does not result in a crash is because we were fortunate that no one near us was making his mistake at the same time. I also have fire insurance - even though I've avoided ever having a house fire and have known many people who avoided house fires their entire lives.
  6. It changed in 86 for the MKII. However I believe the change was in how the bars mount. The lower part of the tree is the same all years. I've had my hands on two that were hit pretty hard in the front. The forks seem to break before the steering neck bends. The steering neck on the Ventures is pretty beefy. Unless you've got something mounted wrong your problem is likely bent forks.
  7. Interchangeable.
  8. She goes to school out of town. End of Dec. she called and said she skidded on the ice, hit a sign, and damaged a strut. $400 to fix. In March she was home and when I saw the car I realized she'd spun through more than one sign. Thing looks like it's been through a garbage disposal. No getting rid of it unless I pay someone to haul it away. Besides, it has an almost brand new water pump.
  9. We're having an issue with the 2002 Intrepid (2.7L V6) my daughter drives. Sometimes (and becoming more frequent) when accelerating from slow speed or stop there is a massive hesitation. The RPMs might rise a little bit but then acceleration stops and the tach stays steady. I can hear the intake noise from the open throttle plate but there is no power. No perceptible stumble, just no power. If the pedal is released the engine idles fine. After 15 seconds or so everything straightens out and it runs great. The service engine light seems to be non functional. The OBDII is showing five codes, four for the four oxygen sensor heater circuits and one for a multi cylinder misfire. I'm assuming the multi cylinder misfire is being set when we see the hesitation. My understanding is that the O2 heater circuits should not create a driveability issue. For those of you that have been around outboard boat motors: The engine sounds just like when you open the throttle butterflies on an outboard without pushing the linkage that works the spark advance. There is the BWAAAA of intake noise but little RPM increase and no power. I had similar behaviour with a Virago where the TCI was not advancing the timing. So I suspect the hesitation is being caused by a failing PCM not advancing the ignition timing. Of course the problem is intermittent enough there is little chance of verifying that with a timing light. Appreciate any feedback on my reasoning or alternative thoughts. Thanks.
  10. It might. Even with the clutch pulled there is still a little drag. Probably doesn't spin quite as fast as in neutral.
  11. OUCH! That's how you guys do it removing only the windshield. I hate wiggling those bent screwdrivers in tight places. If you pull the signal/marker lamps it's a straight shot to those screws with a long Phillips driver.
  12. I was thinking that we ride through some corn to get there, and could grab some corn cobs. In June though the cobs are still pretty skinny. Perhaps you should move Maintenance Day to late August when a good supply of "full size" cobs will be available......
  13. If your gauge reads like min 1/2 tank is less than 2 gallons. I think when you fill up you're going to be pleasantly surprised.
  14. As you described the position of your bike next to the lift it was an accident waiting to happen. And the parts should be protected when they're laid down. I'm wondering how they can afford to tie up a lift for as long as yours was apparently on it too. That's expensive real estate. Gotta get them on, get them done and get them off. A few weeks ago I scratched the rim on a customer's wire wheel changing a tire. I refinished it as best I could, told him what I'd done and offered him a new rim or $200, his choice. He took the two bills and headed for the hills with a smile on his face. Hurt like heck to part with the $$, but it was the right thing to do. On the plus side, he'll be my customer for life.
  15. If the error is fairly consistent it can be corrected. You'll need to disassemble the instrument cluster and remove the speedometer. This is an excellent time to lube the bushing where the drive cable connects. When you look at the speedometer you'll see that it is an aluminum cup attached to one end of a shaft. On the other end is the pointer (needle). There is also a spring which pulls the assembly toward 0. On the back of the pointer there is a brass sleeve. The sleeve is pressed on to the shaft to attach the pointer. If you hold the cup steady you can twist the pointer on the shaft. It's a tight fit, so twist the pointer by grasping the base rather than pushing on the end and possibly breaking it. To precisely set the pointer: You'll notice that behind the aluminum cup there is a bracket. Turn the pointer to 50mph and hold it steady. Using a very fine marker draw a line on the cup where it passes the bracket - it is helpful to extend the line onto the bracket. Now you have a mark that shows how far the cup is rotated when the speedometer reads 50 MPH. Now you can hold the cup in place, keeping the lines matched, and rotate the pointer to the correct speed. So, if when the speedometer reads 50 when you're actually going 65 you rotate the pointer to 65. Now your speedometer will be exactly correct at that speed. It's tough to hold the cup steady - that's the reason for the marks. It'll likely take a couple tweaks to get it where you want it. YOU NEED TO BE VERY CAREFUL THAT YOU ARE HOLDING THE CUP FROM TURNING - NOT PUSHING ON IT. The cup and shaft are fairly delicate and if you bend either the speedometer is junk.
  16. Actually according to the GPS mine is spot on at 52mph.
  17. You start with all screws turned completely counter clockwise. The way you calibrate it is to connect all four hoses to the little manifold that comes with it. Then you hook the manifold to one vacuum port. Start motorcycle and let warm up. Adjust the four screws down until all columns are equal near the bottom of the gauge. Once it's calibrated you take out the manifold and hook each tube to one intake port. If you're out of sync they'll be at different heights. Adjust the sync screws to bring the columns back into alignment.
  18. I wonder if a spray chain lube wouldn't be a good choice for that bushing? Seems it might wick in then firm up. When I remove the cluster I pull the windshield and headlamp. Removing the headlamp lets me get a long extension with a 10mm socket in to take the mount bolts out. Unplug the electrical connectors and disconnect the speedo cable and it lifts right out.
  19. Yes, but why order there when the VentureRider price at Thunder Valley Powersports is 36 cents cheaper? (shameless plug)
  20. 4! We ride two up on 2. To need 4 I imagine I'd have to pick up a really fat chick, her twin sister and all their cats. He's got a MKII Royalle. No place to hook up the bicycle pump. Automatic controller won't over inflate them.
  21. Two pieces you have with rubber on them go above the headlight one in each pair of holes on the windshield. Rubber points down. Only one hole gets a screw (the one with threads). At the corners of the windshield there are no brackets. On mine I don't have the OEM bolts, I just use a 6mm screw with washer. I tighten down until the windshield is snug against the rubber piece that goes between it and the panels that hold the speakers. Your description of the bracket isn't ringing any bells for me either. Pic please.
  22. I don't believe the air shock system operates unless you have the key in the "ACC" position and have pushed buttons. In any case, it shouldn't leak down when you turn the motorcycle off. More likely you're holding the brake when you're trying the front suspension. It has electric anti-dive units which don't work unless the ignition is turned on. They make a big difference in the feel of the front end. Before you tear stuff apart try setting the rear to low and turn the damping dial by the passenger floor board to "1". If somebody stuck a progressive spring in there low pressure is plenty for 1 up, even a large guy.
  23. I'm not clear from your post - If the idle drops back when you push the throttle closed you probably do not have a vacuum leak. Just a throttle cable problem. On the throttle cable it could be adjustment, lubrication or bad cable. - Do you have free play at the throttle? You should be able to rotate the grip back and forth a bit without the RPMs coming off idle. If there isn't free play it'll tend to bind. - When were the cables last lubed? There are 4 of them. - If free play adjustment and lubing doesn't resolve the problem then you probably have to replace a cable. Figure a couple hours labor plus the parts. I'd be tempted to have them replace both "open" cables while they were in there. The "close" cables don't normally have any load on them and are less likely to wear out. The "close" cables won't likely strand you alongside the road like the "open" ones will. If you have a vacuum leak it's most likely to be the 3 vacuum caps on the sync ports or the vacuum line to the pressure sensor. If you're at all handy you might want to do those yourself just to rule them out. The caps and hose can be acquired at your corner auto parts store for well under $10. If the carburetor holders are leaking you are looking at a very large expenditure. There is a lot of labor involved and the parts aren't cheap either.
  24. Mine has a progressive sticker on the hitch receiver so I assume it's got a progressive rear. I've had the front apart and can tell you it's not stock and not progressive, it's a very stiff linear spring. One up I ride 0PSI in front and 14 rear. I'm not a little guy either. 2 up (heavy!) I still run 0 in front and 40 rear.
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