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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    Any good chemist knows the precise requirements to turn Scotch, Whiskey, Burbon or even Beer into urine.. And I see there are some going for post graduate courses... Learning is a wonderful thing. Hic....
  2. mbrood
    Logic says the highest priority is the bathroom... then "she who speaks so loudly" will be happy with most all else. Just my experience... And then Skydoc offers the perfect solution?
  3. mbrood
    It sounds like your custom seat ain't fitting you right, mine slides be back into the "bucket" at the back. Rick Butler is an angel for refitting these to our needs. Is there someone there in GA that can swap seats with you for 1 minute to let you feel a better seat?
  4. mbrood
    Are you idling at 1k? Both carb sync and knowledge of the "health" of the diaphragms are both reasonable maintenance issues to keep up on. My 86 needs a sync about twice a year... they don't drift far but enough to notice on the sync unit to warrant a touch of the screws. If the plugs are looking the same (and flesh brown rather than sooty or whitish) then the majority of the run time is getting the right mixture and burning (firing) all four. Low speed stumbles could be either and the diaphragms are candidates for inspection if you havn't seen them in a while... and for about $100, a sync tool is cheap, it pays for itself after comparing one stop at the shop to let THEM do the 5 minute test...
  5. mbrood
    Kross gave the two classic cures, beveled leading pad edge and some compound on the back (metal). No shims on my bike but the "stop squeel" was definitely needed after new pads were installed.
  6. mbrood
    Running light replacement lenses: Drag Specialties DS-28015 large red DS-280153 large amber DS-280168 small red DS-280167 small amber
  7. mbrood
    These bands are also know to "stretch" over time. You might just need to replace it.
  8. mbrood
    No it will be pointed the other way. (sorry, just couldn't resist)
  9. mbrood
    The unit I'm looking at is 6 1/4" from the back of the faceplate to the end !!! The faceplate and writing look brand new but the metal body ends in with a cutout at the rear... the short "shelf" has the rf connector and the power lead and din connector are at the extreme back. part # 59J-88180-01 on the part and Yamaha micro-fiche says the same number for the 86 through 93 . I guess just the MK1 was short as noted... but they aren't even shown in the micro-fiche listing. I guess my 86 was "fixed" with an earlier model, strange.
  10. mbrood
    Here's rather a step by step out of the service manual... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/cruise/
  11. mbrood
    I have a line on a CB for the 1st gen in pretty good shape but it looks to be about 5" deep where my 86 uses one that's only about 3"... anybody know the year this one would fit?
  12. mbrood
    Bolts and BBs come out through either the fuel petcock or the fuel gauge hole.
  13. mbrood
    Once you have the front lower fairing pieces off and pulled the carbs... you just pull the valve covers off... you will probably need two new valve cover gaskets and 16 bolt grommets. There IS a kit floating around the US... don't recall who "runs it"... You may be able to pull this off with the carbs in place but it's SO much easier...
  14. mbrood
    for the 1987 models... XVZ1300T Regular Venture XVZ1300TC Regualr Venture with California vapor cannister XVZ1300DT Venture Royale XVZ1300DTC Venture Royale with California vapor cannister
  15. mbrood
    So there I was, minding my own business and all of a sudden my chain gets jangled... so I took care of it. (Then got rid of the darn chain!) Thanks again, Mike
  16. mbrood
    This is look at the BOTTOM of the carbs with the left carb bank on the left... between those thwo, you can see the nobby wheel that mounts the idle screw threads, between the two rubber drain hoses. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/carb3.jpg
  17. mbrood
    "The function of the cap appears to be for plugging a hole left over from casting the body of the carb." Um, no... as was said, it's the cap over the fuel screen and float needle seat... It IS replaceable... but if epoxy works for you... so be it... 37 1FK-14190-15-00 NEEDLE VALVE ASSY 1 38 1J7-14994-00-00 NET, FILTER 1 39 1FK-14147-00-00 O-RING 1 40 41R-14118-01-00 CAP http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/floatplug.jpg
  18. mbrood
    Did you ask him about the part number supplied and the vendor pricing supplied? I've heard several guys that have replaced the float seat... and you have to destroy this plug to get there...
  19. mbrood
    A large bobby pin (look in the bathroom) has the flat side that is the perfect extractor tool... with the connector off, push the wire INTO the connector, push the bobby pin into the square cutout next to the wire (this releases the pin locking tang)... holding the bobby pin in the slot, pull back on the wire. (what do you mean you don't have three hands?) We DO need to get a layout for the CDI units.
  20. mbrood
    I believe that is the plug over the inlet screen (filter) and the fuel bowl, float needle seat. Item 40 in the micro fische. ( 41R-14118-01-00 $6.35 from Zanotti) https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/pLookUp.php
  21. mbrood
    On a roadside, you can pop pin D out of the housing, this removes ALL safety interlocks to the ignition (sidestand, tip over relay, etc.) but you STILL have to have a good kill switch to put the battery volts on the TCI (pin 1). http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tciplugs.jpg
  22. mbrood
    There SHOULD be a thin flat washer (5) between the spring and the outer rubber grommet on the filter... this keeps the spring from tearing up the grommet, easy to drop, easy to lose. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/oil-filter.jpg
  23. mbrood
    What an attitude Reiny! Yours in one of the reasons this group is doing so well. Maybe another there in Canada has a need? Mike!
  24. mbrood
    Don't know about your inseam but I had the same results... my biggest worry was the heavy LEAN when on the sidestand. I ended up taking OUT the spacer as a preload and STILL had to fight to get the cap bolts down to start them... but she sits up with a "regular" lean and I can ALMOST flat foot both feet... 29" inseam... The ride is infinitely better and no more clunk when I go over the drivewy lip!
  25. mbrood
    They aren't pretty and round but here's a car unit that has been used... BWD Automotive Solenoid Starter Switch Part Number S63. $17.99 also it's said that the solenoid from a Datsun B210 works dandy. Except for the fit of the Yamaha unit in it's cute holder... it's just a heavy duty solenoid!!!
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