Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'plastic'.
-
I just received my run/stop/turn light from Super Bright LEDs. I know to mount it to the bolt holes between the helmet locks on my RSV, I need spacers, to set it out enough to clear the trunk. I have seen where some of you that have this light bar have used what looks like white plastic bushings. I'm wondering what they are and where did you get them? Or what have others used?
-
.thumb.JPG.bfcefdc0995aabc77d6b4e8cf9125c91.JPG)
What are the black plastic panels on top of each head? I would like to remove them. -
A little while back my funds were running out and Randy Atkins found a bike for me in TN that needed work but was very reasonable.I bought the bike with the help of Randy and had it shipped down here. I couldn't work on it at first because I am still recovering and the holidays were here but lately I have been able to start doing things to it as you can see in the first pic it needed a right fairing and other things done.I have since replaced the fairing and plastic to the class and CB, changed the oil to Amsoil, flushed the brakes and clutch,replaced the headlight and I have both front and back tires mounted and balanced ready to go on, I had them for my other bike.It still needs more work but it is getting there.I have managed to make a mess in my driveway. Tom
-
Today I decided to start the ABS plastic Welding on my bike. I figured I would start with something that I wasn't using to test the unit. I also documented everything from the tack weld to the primer in several videos. When I went to edit the pieces into something shorter than Gone with the wind, I found the part one, that actual welding process segment of the video, was corrupt. SO, I will have to redo the video when I begin welding the ACTUAL bike parts. For now I have a few vid caps of the repair & the finished fender. CLEANLINESS is the key. Prep your work before tacking and clean the work between steps with plastic cleaner. It was actually fairly simple. I have no fears to moving forward. I used the hot air welder from harbor freight, a dremel with a rasp & a drum sander, I did have to use my Air D/A sander as well for the bondo. Anyway here are the vidCaps AFTER I welded the piece. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/album.php?albumid=994
-
For anyone with plastic parts on a bike, you will eventually need to do this. This is the easiest and best video I have ever seen on plastic welding. Give it a go . [ame= ] [/ame] Cheers, D.W.
-
My clutch master cylinder has leaked onto my left side fairing weakening some of the plastic on the bottom. I have a replacement top panel, but more worried about the fairing shell. It has broken off a tab , and it "feels" oily. Is there anything I can do, or is it best to just bite the bullet and try and replace this fairing (ebay). I just don't know if plastic welding/glue/plastex, etc.. would work when it is contaminated like this.... I have the shell removed and can post pictures if that helps. Just was wondering if anyone had dealt with this before and had found something that works. -
here's the deal. i have the chance to buy an 86 venture that is in need of most of the plastic parts. the saddle bags and the trunk are in decent shape but the rest is pretty much toast. it supposedly runs ok and it will need a battery,tires and the valve covers are leaking. it looks like it has been down on the right side but it wasn't very hard. do you all think it is worth 300 bucks? would it be worth the money after having to buy all new plastic? it is something that i would get going and give to my son and his wife. thanks mike
-
It looks like we are going to update the Canadian money yet again. This newest edition is definitely eye catching and looks to be tough on security, I am wondering about it being a plastic polymer and how it feels when spending, lol! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X_hw8ze5qo]Bank of Canada collection of new polymer Canadian notes - YouTube[/ame] Brian
-
I just found this product called Q-Bond, it repairs just about anything. I glued two pieces of abs at 90 degrees and within 15 seconds I could not pull them apart. If you google the product they show repairs to gaskets, plastics, abs, wood, etc. It can also be built up like a weld, it would be great for all of the plastic repairs on your bike. It is extremely strong and very easy to use. Just thought I would pass on.
-
Anyone out there have a lower right side fairing/wind deflector with louvers? Black would be great:o) While I'm at it...since these pieces are plastic as opposed to fiberglass...is special paint required. I'd hate to paint this baby and see the stuff melt away!! Ride safe, Mike
-
Ok I was cleaning my garage, a work in progress, when I came across my dremil tool. A light bulb went off as I purchased aftermarket saddlebag rails and they are smaller diameter. I did try some grommets but didn't like the look ( can you say afterthought) and they didn't work well. I decided to mark the location of the rails and with a sanding wheel remove some plastic to allow for mounting in the original position. I used the insides as a template for the radius as a starting point and a small sanding wheel to ease away the plastic. Once one sided was done and fit I placed them together to position the other half and repeated the process. -
fuses on top of the battery
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hello everybody. I've just bought a 1986 venture and i need to know what the five fuses on top of the battery are for and what size they are. There's nothing marked on the plastic cover or on the owners manual. I'm going to replace the old glass fuses with new atc ones Tks. Gus.... -
I got this from a facebook friend. BTW, you will need one of those plastic bucket side car.
-
Hi, I am taking a compression test, and have removed a plastic shroud, that sits above the front cylinders. Its about a foot long, and has a large diameter hose running thru it allowed by a slit in it. The shroud sits on top of the valve cover bolts, this is an 83 model. Is this shroud necessary to replace or what. It sure complicates taking the left front plug out. I realize that maybe its there to help direct air thru the radiator or whatever, if you can let me know what its purpose is, and if it can be left out, it would be appreciated. My bike has the fairing lowers and side covers left off the bike if that matters. -
I watched one of our mechanic's doing a plastic repair today and thought I would share it ! I have never seen it done before.....he clipped the end off a hose clamp.....heated it red hot with a torch and then embedded it into the plastic piece that was broken......see pic below. Not a repair you would do that can be seen but I'm sure someone may be able to make use of it somewhere. The picture is of a bench grinder shield arm. Keith
-
hey yall, im new to all this, where can i find body parts to replace the bad parts of my 86 venture?is there a pdf with the part # for all this plastic and the clips,plugs,and grommets that hold the plastic fairings ? i would really appreciate all the help i can get,so i can ride like the wind.
-
After installing my highway lights, the fuse got so hot after about 2 hours of riding that it literally melted the solder right off the caps. That cheap plastic fuse holder is total junk. I cracked the fairing open, re-routed the wires to the opening under the triple tree in the back of the inside fairing, replaced the stock fuse with a weatherproof mini AGM 10 amp fuse, and was able to tuck the whole thing under the tank where it is totally accessible without having to split the fairing again. What a pain, but it beats the alternative. That stock in-line plastic fuse holder and old style fuse just aren't designed to handle the current I guess. The new one is working fine, and doesn't get warm at all to the touch. -
Layed the bike down recently on Lt side in gravel and not much cosmetic damage, but this plastic screw mount TAB broke off inside the front cowling. So I plastic soldered it back on.... Used heavy soldering iron and cut strips of some black plastic I found laying around to ‘plastic solder’ the mount back together (w/ tywrap support) and to solder it back in place on the cowling. Worked good. All looked great, then I had the wonderful idea of adding some contact adhesive/sealer, that I had, to help reinforce it. FAIL!!!! It seems that adhesive has a negative reaction to the plastic that the front cowling is made of and caused a soft spot/wrinkle all the way through the front. Tube didn’t say what is was good to use on or not… so tried it. Web site says good on MOST plastics.. ugghh Depressing because the plastic welding seemed to do pretty good.. Oh well, Live and Learn.. *** Dont use SealAll on plastic w/o testing it first. (Its probably real good for its true purpose..) www.seal-all.com Tried to remove as much of the adhesive as possible but afraid I will do more harm now.. Hope it stabilizes and hardens back up… May have to add some chrome to cover it OF COURSE now I see the posts about Plastex for broken Tabs on RSV fairings... that prob would have worked just fine..
-
I have been trying for some time to figure out why my 86 VR doesnt get the mileage some on here claim. Mine, ever since installing the 89 motor (and even with the original 86 motor) struggles to get just slightly over 30 mpg. In addition, the bike has always seemed not to have the umph at higher rpms. My old 88 ran like a scalded dog all the way up to redline. And I have done about all one can do, carbs, sync, plugs, wires, caps, compression is great, valves are right on, no vacuum leaks etc. Well, after reading another thread earlier this week about boost sensors, today I pulled the b/s vacuum line from the manifold, applied vacuum with a mity vac and it would hold nada, nil, ziltch. I had no choice but to pull the necessary stuff to completely remove the rubber vacuum line to check it out and it is just fine; no cracks, plastic connector or balancer, whatever that little gray plastic piece is called is just fine as well. Applied vacuum to just the hose and it holds vacuum just fine. I then pulled the b/s and tried applying vacuum direct to the sensor and you can suck air through it like a straw. That is the culprit in my mileage issue and can't help but call it the culprit in the lack of high end performance. So, does anyone have a good one they are willing to part with? If so, please let me know and I will gladly pay your price. There are several on fleabay but no way of knowing they are any better than the one I just removed. Hope this works. Thanks so much Herb -
Hello: Does anyone work around thick plastics? I am looking for a piece of 3/4" solid black plastic material 15"X15" for a motorcycle related project. Thanks
-
I have a 2001 RSV, the base of the radio remote has crumbled, and is no longer able to be secured to the bracket. I used JB Weld, but was wondering if anyone knows a part number for just the plastic case. I have checked all the online catalogs, but only find the complete remote. Thanks in advance for you help.
-
Hi fellow riders. I just installed the Stebel horn in place of the stock horn on the lower right side of my 07 RSV. I used Carbon One's bracket and it works fine. The chrome plastic cover does touch the clutch housing and the exhaust shield. I have not taken it out for a ride yet, was wondering if anyone has had any melting on the chrome plastic cover with this installation. Thanks in advance for your replies.
-
My plastic gear for the odo is worn out so it wont turn the steel shaft and the odo doesen't work What to do? Find a good used speedo at ebay or can it be fixed? I was thinking something like using a glue gun and adding material to the plastic gear and try to reshape it... -
Loctite Threadlockers and many plastics lead to very sad owners. With ABS plastics it slowly disintegrates the plastic which begins to crack, then crumble. Never EVER apply Loctite directly to plastic, and I strongly recommend you NEVER use it on any fastener that even passes through plastic and into a metal part. It is just not worth the potential grief. We report this information in various threads here every year, but inevitably we see sad stories from some people who just do not get the message. Goose
-
I got a couple new projects starting up and sending some parts to the platers to have the old chrome stripped so I can clean them up and paint them. The thing is I also have some parts that are plastic that were "chromed" and I need to remove that also. Any suggestions on removing that without damaging the plastic? Other than a lot of scraping and sanding? Thanks Mike
.thumb.jpg.4e1b3809c4633f365ba67afc212f21df.jpg){kind=avatar}
