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Showing results for tags 'low'.
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So I was thinking of switching up to the Docsis 3 Technology from Docsis 2 Have any of you had to pleasure or even noticed a differance in these Docsis 3 Technology type modoms? I just switched from Fiber Optics DSL Back to Cable, I was NOT happy with the DSL at all. Very pricy for such a low download speed. The Cable company does support the newer Docsis 3 Technology now. Just wanted to hear what others thought. Thanks Jeff
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My low beam on the driver side went out, but still have high beam. Replaced the headlamp and all is fine for 24 hours then the same low beam goes out. Being that that the Passenger side both hi and low works I tested both the old and the new lamp in the Passenger side and yep both the low beams are out on the old and recently new one. I then put the good one from the passenger side and put it into the Driver side and the Driver side now has both low and high beam. I can see why the low beam on the old headlamp go out after nearly 17 years but why would the brand new headlamp low bean go out within 24 hours. If there is a short wouldn't the fuse blow instead of the headlamp low beam? I now that one possibility would be that the low beam on the new one might be defective. I sure would like to know other possible reasons. Thanks Brian.
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My low fuel indicator has stopped working. The light does not come on and the odometer does not switch to the "find a gas station, dummy!" mode. Is this an indicator that the sending unit has gone bad? Anyone had any experience with this? The gauge itself still works.
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The auctions that are currently running to benefit St. Jude Childlren's Hospital will be ending tomorrow. Some of the bids are stupid low, get you bid in now. Remember this is for the Kids at St. Jude.
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I've noticed that when I'm low on fuel (1-2 gallons), the engine picks up a vibration at different rpm ranges, similar to the carbs being out of sync. When I fuel up it goes away and runs very smooth. Could it be vent related? Thanks in advance. The following has been done: Fuel filter replaced this spring. New plugs (pulled the tank). Sea foam treatment. -
Everyone up the Eastern Seaboard pay attention to this girl, she means business. We hope everyone stays safe and has little to no damage. Right now the eye is projected to make landfall about 15 miles from us and then go right over us. Everybody in low lying areas head to higher ground she is going to be a big Rain Maker ala Floyd. Only she will be moving faster thank God. So play it safe please. Wayne
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My daughter (21) just finished her MSF class :clap2:and is now in the market for her first bike . She wants a used sportbike (250-500cc) to learn on and really likes the Kawasaki Ninja 250. We both took one for a ride and I have to say it's a fun little bike and very easy to ride. Does anyone know of anything for sale in the 15-1800 dollar range? I'd like to stay somewhere near Michigan if we must go outside Michigan. The one we looked at was low sided at low speed and has a cracked fender, scratched upper fairing and cracked windshield otherwise was a nice low miles bike, the guy was asking top dollar for a damaged bike though.
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Have 1993 Venture the CB comes on it transmitts and receives, but the volume is so low you can hardly hear it. Have checked all connection they are fine. Check coax cables they are fine. When you turn on the CB hear it come on but volume is very low any ideas:mytruck1:
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So there I was geting rid of the YICS on my 83 and then I started to think, could the lines be hooked back up together in the same way as the Jason mode or along with the jason mode to help the low end power in any way ?
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Does anyone know what the resistance reading should be from the starter cable connection to ground. My friend's '82 Yamaha has 0.2 ohms. This seems low to me. Can not find any info on reading in service manual. Frank
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With my girlfriend starting a new temp job last night and 47 degree celcius temperatures (with humidity) it was best to stay inside and enjoy the air conditioning. What else to do but something bike related. :-) I put together the following chart based on my experiences, Yamaha specs, magazine articles, and member experiences. The figures are based on a "stock" RSV with normal fuel tank and un-corrected odometer. I've also taken into consideration what the "real" main tank capacity differences are from spec (0.5 U.S. gallons) in calculating maximum distance and "real" total fuel capacity. Some numbers don't total up due to rounding. I've wondered just how far I can go on a tank of fuel, or gotten to the point where I was wondering if I could make it to the next gas station before I ran out of fuel and would have to walk. Hopefully this table is helpful to others. NOTE - "Low Fuel distance travelled" counter comes on at inconsistent points because of leaning the bike into a corner when you are low on fuel. Once it starts the count down it stays on. The low fuel indicator light goes on and off depending on the lean of the bike.
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well, i have had my stratoliner a week and just turned over 700 miles. i changed oil in it saturday. a minor 3 hour job. it is a ***** to change oil on these big twins. i will make some special tools and cut the time in half. so far this bike has passed the ultimate bike test. the power is awesome. the handling is the best. i think it will out run and out handle my wing. it weighs 100 lbs. less. low speed handling on parking lots is far better than any bike i have ever owned or rode. it feels 1/3 as heavy as it is. it has a very low center of gravity. i had a vibration around 65 mph, but that is disappearing with the break in miles. the engine is so massive it will pull smoothly down to 1700 rpm. i just found out parick racing has a big bore kit for the strat along with a few other go fast goodies. think i will pass on that. ive got to stay in my limits and leave that stuff to the kids.
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Hi folks, I've been tracking a charging problem on my machine and using the electrosport troubleshooter I believe I have the problem identified. As I see it, the brown wire on the R/R is an input to the unit and should supply system voltage to the R/R. It reads low on mine at the connector nearest the R/R. In my belief, connectors, then switches are more likely than wire to create voltage drops. The connector nearest the R/R checks OK in that voltage is the same on both sides (LOW). Where else should I look / test? Other connectors in the signal circuit to the R/R? How do I test out the ign switch? The other fix could be a later R/R with an internal sensing that would not rely on the brown wire to monitor voltage. I believe the Shindengen unit is like this. What is the list wisdom on this. The Electrosport guide indicates this is the hardest fault to find and, honestly, I need a hand. Everything I wrote above could be wrong, I'm building my Venture charging knowledge up even as I post this. Thanks in advance!
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I have a Drag Specialties liquid filled gauge installed by the PO with tap in usual place near the clutch. Pressure is within spec per the yammy manual so I believe it to be normal but as some of you know it's essentially 0psi with a hot motor at under 2k rpm. I have to assume it's reading the other side of the relief valve or something. Any of the experts here know why the readings are so darned low on a warmed up motor? -
I filled my tank up a few days back and have been riding back and forth to work in the rare Scottish sunshine, on my way home yesterday I noticed the fuel gauge dip and the "F" count begin, I anly had 78 miles since brimming her . Now I am riding solo and doing anywhere from 55 to 90 mph (mostly above 70 ) so it looks like I'll be lucky to get 100 miles to the tank before empty, unless I bumble around at 55 all day . However I never had any "Low fuel warning light appear" is this only on the Venture model as I can't see a low fuel light on the consol ? Cheers. -
As some of you know, I bought a new HD Road Glide in feb. Its ship date from the factory is April 29th. I have checked in on it a few times. Today I get a call from the dealer telling me to come get it. Boy was that a surprise, I just talked to the parts guy yesterday about an add on that I wanted. He didnt say that my bike was there. I suppose he thought I already knew it. So hopefully on saturday I can make the trip to get it. Party sunny with low 50's for temps and north winds at 10 to 15 sounds ok to me. Hopefully I can get things all lined up to get it then. Next week is more rain, like today and tomorrow. So I guess I should get a little more aggressive on getting rid of my Tour Deluxe. Maybe deep down I still kinda like the thing......
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Hello, Looking for some input from all you knowledgeable Venture riders. My 2003 RSV has just turned over 95,000 km. Last year I put on Barons Bag Slash pipes - was told no need to re-jet, so I didn't. Prior to this I had noticed a slight reduction in fuel economy but nothing I worried about...but it continued to worsen to the point of only getting about 300 km to a tank, some days 269, depending on the riding I was doing. No backfiring or performance issues noted. I put back the stock pipes this year and am on my second or third tank of gas after storage for the winter. The plugs were replaced prior to winter storage. While in storage I cleaned and re-oiled both K&N filters. I went through 15 litres of fuel going about 169 km on the way to work at speeds around 120 - 130 km/h. On the way home, I went through 11.4 litres of fuel for about 159 km on the way home travelling more like 130-140 km/h. I rode faster home, which is predmonintley up hill and went through less fuel on the way home than I did going downhill to work. So, doing the math, I got about 26.58 mpg on the way to work (downhill and in the sunshine) and 32.73 mpg on the way home (raining in part of the way, going uphill and faster after through the rain. These are far cries from 40 to 50 mpg spec'ed. I popped in to one shop....they are going to go through the Yamaha update manuals. Initially, they thought maybe I oiled the air filters too much and perhaps some of the oil plugged up the K&N's. (I did give them a good amount of oil, but didn't think it was excessive-like no puddles or dripping) I called a Yammy shop and they quoted the new estimated fuel economy saying I should be getting 51 mpg and should consider a carburetor rebuild. One other knowledgeable colleague of mine seconded that opinion. (additional question - what has changed to give such a difference in estimated fuel economy? 42 mpg to 51. Are the carbs the same? If not, can the 03 be rebuilt to the same specs as the 2011?) So, I am throwing it out there for your learned opinions. I will try some seafoam tomorrow after my night shift - can't hurt... $19 on the way to work, $17 on the way home foe 370 km...for economy, I may as well drive my Ford Escape, the way it is now. Thanks for your guidance. -
Finally bought a 2008 venture. I'm looking for a low windshield. Anyone have one to sell? Must be like new. I don't want any defects. Thank you.
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I just completed my complete motorcycle maintenance getting ready for the summer rides. I adjusted the air shocks on both the rear and front forks using the following tools and they worked great. It is so nice working with such accurate tools. I brought the rear pressure up to 35 lbs and the front shock up to 3lbs. The bike was place on my motorcycle stand prior to adding the air as the manual states. Some folks are saying that there is no pressure difference if the bike is on the side stand or on a motorcycle lift. However I will most always go with the service manual but have devitated several times in my life! ha ha Anyway here is the tools that I used and they worked great/SUPER. I used the pressure pump to put the air in the front shock and took it to about 6 lbs although I only wanted 3 lbs. With the 0 to 15 lbs gage I just removed some air slightly until it reached 3 lbs. Worked great with the low pressure gage. It was hard to tell the low pressure accurately with the 0 to 60 pressure pump. So two gages are required for good results. I use a Harley Progressive pump # 54630-03A, 0 to 60 lbs. and Accugage low pressure gage SX series, 0 to 15 lbs which I bought from BikeBandit.com, part# 24729 (TR-150251). See Photo attached. Hope that this helps someone. DanC -
What a beautiful day for a ride today. Meet up with Art (Art 708) this morning before joining up with a local group of riders for a nice 5 hour ride through the back roads of the low country. Art's Mods to his bike looked great the pics he posted did not do it justice. Sorry our newest low country resident could not join us maybe next time. Joe http://i760.photobucket.com/albums/xx248/etcswjoe/Bike%20Rides/Lowcountry%20Ride%20Feb%206%202011/IMG_1970.jpg
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My wife wants a bike of her own. After year of seeing the world with a helmet directly in front of her she wants to see where we are going. So she went and took a MSC on her own, loved it and has her learners permit for this next year. I am thinking of a Vulcan 750, it's low and a small bike so she can flatfoot the ground. Is that too big? she was throwing around a Buell 250 at the MSC.
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Good afternoon everyone, Both hi and low beam on my 08 RSV went out last week. I have been reading the threads on this problem and have done the starter switch lube and fuse checking. I have read there might be a possibility of the Reserve Light Unit going bad but how often is this a problem? I'm not sure as to what direction to take at this point. Its difficult to get to the headlight lamp but is it possible for both hi and low to go bad in one lamp? Any suggestions would be helpful. By the way, everything else is working fine, it's just the headlight. Thanks Frank
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This information will seem like old hat to those of us who have been around these bikes a while, but what I will explain below is that knowing and understanding something it is NOT the same as grokking it! This may be a little long, but I'll do my best to keep it concise. If you have noticed voltage fluctuations on your bike, this thread's for you. The problem: For at least the last 20,000 miles I have had intermittent periods of low voltage on my 05, but only when running extra load like passing lamps. Occasionally the voltage while riding would drop down below 12, and at idle even below 11. But if I turned off the driving lamps it would jump all the way back to 13.8 - 14. I also noticed that when the voltage was low, often just a sudden increase in load such as a quick touch of the air horn or just flashing the high beams would cause the voltage readings to go back to normal. I have NOT had any problem with dead battery. Although my bike is close to 100,000 miles and has the original six year old battery in it, I also noticed this identical problem on the 07 I had for a few months. This was a clue that I ignored. Analysis: These are absolute classic symptoms for bad wire connections or pin contacts in plugs. Since the voltage was only low when the load was high, it indicated that excess current was being sucked from the battery instead of being supplied by the bike's charging system. The fact that it was not always low under those conditions proved that the charging system did have the full capacity, but it was not always being delivered to the battery. On the Royal Stars, the plug connecting the regulator/rectifier is a know problem with the pins for the main 12V and ground wires often overheating and melting the plug. The excess heat that melts the plug is caused by poor pin contact that works like a resistor. Long ago I pulled this plug and it looked perfect. I also pulled the plug for the three stator wires, and all looked good there too. Over the past year or two I have periodically checked just about all plugs and wires, including grounds and battery cables without finding any problems. This problem can also be caused by an old or defective battery that just sucks up too much charging current, so this knowledge coupled with the fact that I still have the original six year old battery in the bike made me assume that had to be the cause. I never did see an excess charge current flowing into the battery on the ammeter, but just assumed that was because the only ammeters that are available these days have a + - 60A swing, and that is just too much to accurately see current flow on a 30A max motorcycle. I was just waiting for the bike to show some slow cranking to buy a new battery and prove the point. The problem has been getting noticeably worse in the past few months. Still not having charging problems, but probably because I have been mostly leaving the driving and passing lights off. If I did not have full gauges and monitor them regularly, I probably would never even have a hint that there was a problem at all. If the battery had died two years ago, I would have just assumed it was normal old age for a motorcycle battery. Surprise easy fix: Well today I decided to pull the regulator/rectifier one more time to check that plug. It still looked perfect. Although this circuit seems to be designed on the absolute minimum of what is needed for the 30A current, the plug does have a very good rubber seal in it that keeps out the crud if the plug is properly seated, and even after close to 100,000 miles, mine still looked like new. But still, I took the time to plug/un-plug the thing about 10 times to scrape the pins good, then I took a pair of needle nose pliers to slightly tweak the pins for the big red and black wires - the idea here was to make them press harder on the fittings in the plug and guarantee good contact. Well guess what? When I took it out for several hours, even with fairly low battery voltage to begin with from sitting for several weeks, the system voltage NEVER DROPPED EVEN ONE TIME! This was an obvious fix that I should have done a couple of years ago, but the fact that my plug never showed any signs of heat problems fooled me into believing there must not be any problem with the pin contact there. WRONG. The moral here is that even when things look right, they may not be. Never hurts to go the extra distance to clean/re-seat/tighten something that you suspected in the first place. It sure won't make things worse, and it just might fix it! Goose -
I just installed my headlamp bulb with a Silver Star Ultra. After install, low beam was dim but high beam was super bright. Now I get the headlamp message on display. After having it in for a week the low beam is not on at all but works on high beam. This morning low beam was on and very bright for a few minutes then went off. High beam still works fine. Did not have any issues with the other unknown bulb that was installed from PO I was surprised to see the wattage to be 55/100 with no name or numbers on bulb just the words not for use in Germany. This is the old bulb. Do you think the Silve Star is defective or my scooter just didnt like me changing out a perfectly good headlamp? I would really like to run with the Silver Star as it is much brighter looking. Maybe with some of your suggestions I can get it to work. Thank you for all of the support this site provides! Bob -
Hello, what does the second light down on the left of my 1989 venture royale mean? It kinda looks like a small bulb surrounded by a housing. Does it mean low brake fluid? Or could it mean I have air in my brake lines?? Is it a symbol for a drip of something? I don't have my manual, so I'm at a loss.
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