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Showing results for tags 'frame'.
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Took some McGyvering, but I got the pull throttle cable to work and clear the frame finally. I had to make a new, repositioned mount on carbs for it. Also cut about a half inch off end to allow it to clear frame. Bent tube on end of cable about 30 deg. farther. Choke cable is now secured to frame bar. With the solid motor mounts the relationship between engine & frame should be consistent. I got a coil front & rear coil mount brackets from a VMax. Between these and some creative sheet metal forming, I think I can get the battery on its side in front of the air box. The two rear coils are going to be behind the rear cylinders. The front coils will hang down below the battery tray, with the Vboost motor behind them. I keep at it, I may make MD in Oberlin. Gary -
Ok I had been told that if a dealership had repaired second gear problems on an 83 to 85 that they put a center punch mark on the frame by the sticker under the rear brake pedal. Well mine has that punch mark. I called a friend at a yamaha dealership and he did some research and found that yamaha had indeed instructed there dealers to mark the frame in this manner. I will try to get a picture up. Mine is on the top portion of the sticker and the sticker is peeling somewhat away from the punch mark now. Shaun
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You guys might just want to pull your trunk and check the mounting bolt holes on the chrome trunk frame. When Squid and I pulled my damaged trunk off this past weekend we discovered that the FRONT mounting bolt hole plates on my trunk frame were cracked... and it appears the only thing keeping things together was the chrome plating...and yes the stress cracks were clearly visible through the chrome too. From the response I got from my Dealer this morning I don't hold much hope of Yammi eating the $500+ bill to replace the chromed trunk frame....And yes, the Service Manager was NOT surprised to see the damage on the trunk frame... and that tells me that this may be a trunk frame defect that Yammi is fully aware of.....And the typical response from Yammi it seems is that they attribute the failure to the customer "overloading" the trunk with weight. My Yammi Dealer took a complete set of good pics of the trunk rack both top/bottom and is going to submit a request for Warranty replacement at no cost to me. Note to Squid: If this goes through I will get the NEW trunk rack to you Bro!! Boomer....With regards and respect to all.
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My son was at the pharmacy getting a prescription filled and saw a can of this polish. The clerk said they didn't think too much about carrying it in the store but since word has gotten out that they have it they can't keep it on the shelf. It supposedly cleans and prevents finger prints. I used some on the glass frame of my autographed picture of Larry Pegram on his racing bike. It really leaves a shine. I'm going to try it on my bike. Just wondering if anyone has tried it.
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Does anybody have one? I want to look up a couple of serial numbers for time frame of when they were made.
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I just completed building a "lift frame" for my 2008 Venture. I would like to thank "Carbon one" for his pictures and diagram of his lift frame. It really helped me out in making mine. Carbon one used 1&1/4" tubing for his lift frame. I was a little uncomfortable with this size tubing so I really when over the edge for strength. I used 2" X1/4" thick square steel for the main frame and the 1&1/4 for the cross beams. I also installed an additional support cross member. Its simple to build and I will be writing up an article with pictures to put in our site here for all to see and possibly use. Hope that is helps someone out. If you need the directions now with pictures you can write me at Dan4852@aol.com and I will send you photo's and a diagram. I feel very secure with my bike up in the air with the 2" steel framing. The bike is perfectly level and very secure. Note: Because I used the 2" steel framing with the 1&1/4 on top for cross beams I was unable to get it fully under the bike. My motorcycle jack would not go down any more so I raised the bike up by driving it up on running board. Just a little heigth was all I needed. It went right under then and up went the bike. I get goose bumps with the 2' steel beams!! ha ha
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For those of you that are doing some major repairs on your 83, such as transmission repairs or whatever, I suggest you think about doing what I did as a frame repair, even though you have not experienced a frame breakage as I did 4 1/2 years and probably 35,000 miles ago. Even though I don't feel it is a common problem of frame breakage, I do feel that if you are serious about keeping your bike on the road and having the structural integrity it needs, this is something I think you should seriously consider. RandyA http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1521 -
well i'm way ahead on my winter project. the drive train and engine is all mounted after much machining, fabricating, and welding. had to lengthen the frame 2" to fit the new engine and automatic transmission in. like putting 10 lbs. of crap in a 5lb bag. the body which was hammered from one end to the other, is almost ready for the paint shop, i had to fabricate and weld in some new panels. i have to disassemble it and send the body off for paint, and paint the frame. then i can start the final assembly. it should look almost original at first glance accept for the oversize aluminum wheels and front disc brake. another cushman sleeper will hit the road this winter. i'm hoping for a cruising speed around 65 or 70 mph.. got an idea for a small trailer to tow behind and taking a cross country trip with my buddy on his cushman eagle that i built for him. pics to come soon, i hope. bill:2133:
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Was someone here bidding on chrome frame covers on EBAY?If you were the winning bidder i guess you needed the alot more then me:crying:
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Was curious if its possible to replace the trans gears without pulling the motor? I know you have to split the case but I do see the one side frame rail comes apart. I have limited room in my garage, so even if it takes longer thats fine, i have all winter.
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I learned why we wear off the left side of our tires , I have sold bikes because i think they have a bad frame . check out this link and tell us what you think ? http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/index.html
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well after 1 1/2 yrs i got the 86 i bought stripped down for a frame swap and re-paint. with help from the brother of a co-worker who want to learn about working on bikes, we got it down to the engine ready to remove from frame. alread found several problems as we took things off. the whole area below battery box is corruded up from acid, need to clean and re paint computer mount, clean and coat wiring blocks with electric gel. found diaphrams in carbs stiff and holes in them, need to order new ones. linkage set-screw between 2 of the carbs was loose and not opening the carbs at the same rate, could have never got them synced right. other than that it's in pretty good shape over-all. i'll have a few spare parts left over, because he gave me 2 extra fake gas tank covers, 1 radio and some other parts i need to find out what there for. the seat is in bad shape as the cover is cracked-up, if anybody has a good one or know where i can get this one re-covered that would work. i'm going to take it to a guy who did some other work for me and see if he can do it reasonable. looking foward to getting it back together and see how it turns out.
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Does anyone have a picture of the front lower, and side panels? I am specifically looking for how the panels attach to each other, not necessarily to the frame. I think I may be missing a piece or two. Thanks Kevin
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Just doing a little maintenance on my son's, new to him, bike. Picked up a free 2007 Vulcan 900 Custom with 3200 miles. Swapped out the frame and going back together. http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n315/rlyons_photos/Vulcan/Vulcan.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n315/rlyons_photos/Vulcan/Vulcan3.jpg http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n315/rlyons_photos/Vulcan/Vulcan4.jpg
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Jeff; So not to take away from your headlight thread I started this one for the Aux Gas Tank. NO NO the rear end; as in Frame work doesn't have to come off just the tour pac and body & running boards if you have them. The rear end ( pumpkin ) it self may have to be lowered ( basically removed, and sit down with axles still attached like putting in the drive shaft ) to do the welding there, but maybe not too. That could be done with asbestos blankets laid across the rear end. As simple as it looks it was done in a sort of complicated way. Meaning for an installer, it has to come off before the kit can be installed, and they supper locktited the mounts to the tank side, and you have to bend the rubber stand offs to the point of breaking loose to get the tank out of the frame to put the kit on the bike, and then go through it again to install the tank. I was able to break loose the stand offs, and eliminate 90% of that part. I think that there has been a retro fit of a couple from this board if I remember right, but haven't heard too much about it. This board is a little slow with activity compared to other boards, but the Quality of the threads makes up for that.
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I'm getting out of the used 1st gen parts business which has been slow and time consuming and am about to haul what is left of the XVZ1200 and XVZ1300 motors to the metal salvage yard for scrape value. If anyone is interested in engine parts or frame parts please speak up and PM me with what your looking for. Or any other parts I still have a wide range of all kinds of parts left.
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I have a 08 venture & would like to put a reciver type hitch on it. do all hitches for a venture lust bolt on with the 4 boults in the back or is there some other bracing that goes up to the main frame? If all I need is the frame across the back I cam make that! for now I would just like a rack on the back for more storage on long trips. trailer later?
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I looked and got a few ideas from other cold pipe threads. I got the 01 RSV about a month or so ago, and don't know the history on it except that it needed an oil change soon. I have ridden it a few times, just to get the feel of it, and have found that there are a few annoying little things that were mentioned when I picked it up, like dropping out of curse,,,, and it does. In a couple of weeks I am going to tare it down to the frame and do a repaint, and Trike it. I am going to get the normal things while it is down to the frame like fuel filter, plugs (maybe platinum ) things like that that are a little bit of a pain to change. I am in the toolies, and don't have access to a sync thingie to check the carbs,, I start it now and then to keep the battery up, and fluids flowing. I noticed tonight that the right rear cylinder pipe is cold..?? I run the RPM's up a little and it gets hot like the others, but as soon as it goes back to idle the pipe cools right off and can be touched,,,,, Stumped, and out of my element some here. I sprayed carb cleaner around that carb while idling, and it seemed that the pipe got a tad hotter for a split sec. Am I on the right track. There are other cruiser types here in our big city but closest shop is 75 miles away. I guess I will be looking for a good local guy to help, and maybe sync the carbs. It runs out good some slight hesitation on pull off then OK...
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I'm installing a Back-off brake module and was wondering where to attach the ground wire. Should I attach it to the frame or the battery? Thanks
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I was wanting to know if they make this piece the same for all the years between 83-93? The reason I am asking is because when I put my bike back together again and started riding it my front fender is hitting on the radiator cover and scratching my paint off. I have two different sets of these top and bottom and I don't know which set they used. I know where this is a front end crash that it could have very well bent the frame but I don't see where it is bent and I am hoping that I can just change these and change the rake on the front of the bike. I also notice when I ride it that it is hard to control at very low speeds. 1988 venture with no air in front forks
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The 83 I bought runs really great - but it has rust everywhere. Basically anything chrome is rusty. I am not sure how much to put into this bike. I checked Ebay and can find chrome pieces such as engine gaurds, stator cover, etc - but shipping is the huge killer. The frame even has rust on it - but not much I will do about that except clean up and paint a bit. So, anyone out here have any parts they want to sell and ship at a decent price?
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OK several people have been asking about the leftover parts from ythe Hannigan hack, so here';s what's gone already. Diamond R hide a hitch, gone! Rear fender, Gone! Rear rotor, gone! Saddlebags are going on Goldie mounted backwards to accomodate the Ventureline rear bumper, so gone! Rear brake, gone. Yet to find a home, chrome triple tree, rear shock, rear tire, differential (hoping to sell to a VMax owner exchange) and rear sub frame. These parts have only 8K on them. The rear shock was sold but the interested party recently totaled his scoot. If interested just PM me...
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After installing risers, I've now rerouted the throttle cables 3 times, and they're still sticking when turned to the right. I also lubed them and it didn't seem to make any difference. For those of you who have been successful in getting the throttle not to stick at all via rerouting, exactly what route do your cables take? They originally went (starting from the left) around the steering neck, inside the front brake line, outside the right vertical bar of the inner fairing frame, and around the outside of the right side of the fork. That's the route shown in the service manual. I tried bringing them inside the inner fairing frame, no luck. I then tried outside the front brake line, still inside the inner fairing frame, and up, coming out by the top right of the triple tree, by the pinch bolts, no luck. So what route works? And for those of you who have purchased longer cables, where did you get them and how much did they cost?
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In addition to our RSV, We also have a "50" Ford fullblown custom convert. Chopped/sectioned/lowered/molded/louvered etc etc.....The RSV is all bundled up for the winter but, being a restless one, I had some "under the car" issues I wanted to address before spring. ! I wanted to re-route the floor shift cable as it seemed to bind a bit.The car is LOW, really LOW. I jacked the car up just enough. I let my neighbor borrow my "creeper" (don't remember when) so, I had to wiggle my way under. Ok, trouble light in place, all the tools I "think" I'll need and under I go. As I suspected, the shift cable needed to be moved to the outside of a support bracket. Now, I've got about 5 or 6 inches between my head and the frame, as I reached up to loosen the bracket for the re-route, lifting my head off the floor about 3in, a small piece of dirt/something became dislodged. As normal, (?) it was right in line with my cheek just below my right lower eyelid. My head was now somewhere between that 5 and 6 inches from the frame as I had my head off the floor about 3. As the little foreign piece of whatever hit my face, I involuntarily jerked back causing my head to smack the concrete floor. Of course the immediate reaction was to snap back causing my forehead to smack the frame which caused a reaction to jerk back as I once again hit the floor and returned to the frame for one more self destructing thump before I could stabilize. I lay there for a moment amused with a vision of my head as a "ping pong" ball under there. I managed to squirm out from under a bit perplxed, actually a bit dazed. I have a small red scraped spot on my forehead not unlike that little red dot on an Indian Believer. I'm thinking of a "lift" and I want my creeper back "JEFF"! Renne
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http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/LicensePltFrame/cd_chrome_led_frame.jpeg A few weeks ago I replaced my tail light with a LED board and a clear lens. What I failed to do and I didnt realize it until one night last week when a cop pulled me over at 230 am by work was the fact that I didnt have a licence plate light anymore. I then realized that when I switched to the LED board it no longer illuminated upwards like a regular bulb, thus no plate light. My explanation worked and I promised the kind officer that I will get a lighted frame this weekend. After searching several sites, JP being the most expensive in the 59.00 to 120.00 dollar range. I found the above frame at www.signaldynamics.com for a paltry sum of 35.00. 42.00 with shipping and tax....yes, they are located in my home state. Exciting, huh!
