Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'cylinder'.
-
Im appealing to the wisdom of this site to find a mistery. Well here goes. I'm not getting a spark on second cylinder. I've gone thru the diagnose on the clymer's manual and all indicates is the igniter unit. I've changed it twice and same. I've switched the wires from the front primary coil to the second and I get a spark. Hence it's not the coil. A mechanic friend said it was the pickup coil. I changed it. Same symptom. Both sparks and caps tested and good. The only thing left is the stator, which test fine and produces spark in both coils. Any suggestions? Thanks! -
Hey all, I have a 06 RSV. Everyone is talking about upgrading the brakes to R1. What year or type of R1? Am I doing just the front or also the rear? What about the other components, master cylinder, lines, etc. Any input whould be great. Thanks
-
I'm doing my 52,000 mile valve adjustment. My dilema is this. The manual states that when #1 cylinder is at top dead center you will see the timing mark through the viewing hole and the cam lobes will be facing away from each other. Mine lean in towards each other. When turning the engine 180 degrees and so forth it all works out that when you hit #3 cylinder you see the other single timing mark so I guess I'm doing it right. I noticed this last time nd chalked it up to a mispraint in the manual. Anyone else experienced this?
-
Can someone give me a quick verbal (walkthru) of how to "properly" perform a compression check. Bike is an 86. I have a pretty good idea of how to check the compression, but since it has been literally years since I've done one on anything, I just need a quick review of the procedure. Here's how I would do one. Once the motor is exposed, I would 1) remove all the spark plugs 2) short out all the spark plug wires to not harm the CDI box 3) connect gauge 4) at full throttle, crank the motor over until max pressure is observed on the gauge for each cylinder 5) if low one tests low (what would be low??), squirt a little oil in that cylinder chamber then recheck 6) record all results Good compression would be where no one cylinder is more than 10 off from any other. Add anything you think I missed or should know before proceeding. Thanks
-
I found my rear caliper leaking so I'm going to rebuild it. I have rebuilt calipers on cars before and don't think it should be difficult. I just thought I would ask if there is anything special I should be aware of. The other question I have is the size of the cylinder bore if I have to hone them. I dont have my small hone anymore. So if I have to buy one, it would be nice to know what the size is. Thanks for the help. -
So... a week ago I went to ride the 89 and by the time I had rolled backwards out of the garage and was ready to leave... bummer.. no clutch. Then saw the puddle by where the kickstand was. Ordered the parts for the clutch slave cylinder. Rebuild it Friday night. Saturday morning... fluid puddle. Guess it is the short hose from the long tubing to the clutch slave cylinder. The problem... i can not locate the part number, or find it on Boats.net/(aka) Powersports. Their microfiche show it a a ghost part under clutch, but I can't find the part to order. I looked in my manual (copy attached) and found the part, but again no description. Any help out there on where to order this hose ? Also, would a hose off of an 84 MKI be the same one as a 89 MKII ?
-
I've been doing some searching, but no luck yet, for a set of master cylinder covers. The only left-side I can find is in a set of Kuryakyn's for a VTX-1800. I have a set of aftermarket lids on both, but am looking for covers to hide the peeling/dull clearcoat on the reservoirs. I know I may have to do some "tweaking" because of the audio control mount. Here is what I've found so far.
-
ive got the dredded oil puddle looks like its coming from around the clutch slave cylinder im thinking it may be the slave cylinder is it hard to replace
-
:fingers-crossed-emoI have a (Barn find) 2000 RSV MM only 10k mile on it. Last month when I first got it a ran a can a sea foam as recommended but I always thought is ran a little ruff. But with past BMW experience most bike runs a little ruff. Well after some late night reading someone here said that they run surprisingly good on only 3 cylinders. Well, mine does. After starting it and running it for 30 seconds my left rear (#1) cylinder exhaust pipe is still cold. I pulled the plug and it looks oily and not firing, all the rest look great. I stuck the removed plug in the wire and cranked it and it has spark. I checked the compression and its fine. I suspect a plugged carb? When I pulled the gas tank I also noticed that the Carb for the cylinder that is not running has a nice coating of Oil/Gas seepage crust. I ask you, What would the guru’s do next?
-
Alright I really want to thank all of you for your help. I have narrowed it down to my front right cylinder with no spark. Pulled the plug and it is as clean as when it went in. Where do I go from here
-
I've only ever broken in ONE new engine in my life...so far. But I came across this article in the Wheels section of a newspaper and found it interesting. It might be wise to keep this in mind when breaking in your NEXT new engine. The sole purpose to the break-in procedure is to seal the piston rings to the cylinder walls. This can only happen with high combustion pressures, and these pressures happen when the engine is forced to accelerate under load. In a perfect world after a new engine is installed in a given vehicle, the vehicle should be driven on a vacant airport runway. The drive should consist of full throttle acceleration from a stop to approximately 60 km/h then brought down to about 15 km/h – with the throttle closed. Followed by another acceleration run to at least 60 km/h, followed by another deceleration to 15 km/h. This accelerate/decelerate process should go on for about 50 kilometres. During the acceleration period, the piston rings are forced squarely against the cylinder walls, which trues them to each respective cylinder. In effect, the rings will conform to the shape of the cylinder. The deceleration period creates a very low pressure in the cylinders (relative to the full power combustion pressures) and in the intake system. This low pressure is exposed to the cylinder valves and the oil that gathers in and around the valve guides. This low pressure (essentially a vacuum), draws this oil past the guides and into the engine cylinders. This helps lubricate the cylinder rings in excess of normal operation. The rings need extra lubrication because of the excess friction created by the break-in process.
-
Hey Walt thanks for the help on the clutch yesterday, I got real lucky on that... I never seen poot like that thru the master cylinder....Anyhow thanks my friend
-
As both a procrastinator and one who's latest promotion has consumed a ton of my free time, I admit that I have had almost all of these parts sitting on the shelf for a full year. What a colossal mistake on my part. The last bit I was holding out on was a 14mm master cylinder. I found what I wanted on eBay last week -- had to strip and refinish, but that took less time than I expected. Skydoc_17 had provided the SS lines (I asked him to special order black so it would look more like stock and it does) and VMax splitter; all of which were still in the sealed USPS box that he mailed them to me in. I cleaned and painted my eBay sourced R1 calipers solid black to get rid of the blue anodized stars. Installation was straightforward and uneventful. Since I already had the bike torn down for the valve adjustment (another big thank you to skydoc_17) it was a couple days before I could get it on the street. My initial impression was, lets say much below satisfactory. I was actually pissed within the first 2 stops at how much time I had put into the project. To be fair, I had gone cheap and reused whatever pads (still had good meat, no idea what brand) were loaded in the calipers. Fortunately, my local shop had a pair of the EBC HH pads on the shelf. Second impression was light years ahead. I couldn't have asked for a better result. The albino water buffalo now bleeds off speed equivalent or better than any other big touring bike I have ever owned or ridden. If you are on the fence, let me shove you over to the other side. Even if you stick with the stock 5/8" master cylinder, its a step in the right direction. Iz
-
Does anyone happen to know about the finish on the OEM master cylinder? Is it paint, raw aluminum with clear, or some other kind of coating? I'm trying to get a used 14mm master cylinder but would like to make sure its the same color as my original silver color on the 2000 RSV.
-
Finally got my carbs back together and decided to make sure nothing else needed attention before putting them back on. There is a black plastic box (air chamber assembly on the parts diagram) that sits on top of the motor. there are 4 lines going from it to each cylinder. 2 of my lines are cracked/ split. Do I need to replace the lines or can I remove them and cap off the ports in the cylinders? What does this thing do? here is a pic:
-
My 89 VR, last year, ran fine. I normally run an ounce of SeaFoam in each gas tank, and at the end of the year on a full tank I put in about 4 or 5 ounces of Seafoam, then ran it about 30 minute ride, then top of the tank. Now it is ready for the winter lay up Sometime in Jan of 2012 during a nice day I took it out for a mid winter warm up. Just to make sure everything was running ok. It ran perfect until the last 5 minutes. All of a sudden I could tell that I was not getting the normal throttle response. At a stop light I noticed that it was idling at less than 500 rpms and I could hear what might sound like not firing on all 4s. Got it home and let it sit. See I was too busy putting accessories on my 91 VR. But all the time been thinking about how to attack the 89 VR issue. So I finally got to it this morning. As I turned the key on the fuel pump did it click click thing like a machine gun. Hit the choke and with in about the 2nd hit of the starter it started right up. During warm up I could tell that the symptom was still there. When I took the choke off, yep it is idling below 500 rpm, and not sounding good. From cold start up I hit each cylinder with the laser temp run and all 4 cylinders seem to be warming up fairly evenly, temp wise. I will start it up tomorrow morning when cold and be more attentive with the temp on the left banks. The left banks temp may have been a bit behind the right banks. I just wasn’t paying too closely So this morning I did the following: I sniped off 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the spark plug wire. Started it up - Same symptoms. Facing in the forward riding position While running I pulled the right back cylinder plug - the engine died. While running I pulled the right front cylinder plug - the engine died. While running I pulled the left back cylinder plug - engine kept running. tiny bit less rpm. While running I pulled the left front cylinder plug - engine kept running. tiny bit less rpm. So it is my 2 left cylinder bank. I pulled the plug cap of each left cylinders and put a spare plug in it to test for spark. Both have good spark. I then unscrewed each plug and then tested the two original spark plug for spark. Both have good spark. Infact the plugs almost look band new. Well they should be for very little miles were put on them last year. Also when I pulled the original plugs they were not wet with fuel. They were very dry, meaning they aren't getting any fuel or what fuel it was getting was being burnt off. It was running initially with the choke but later I took the choke off. So with good spark and the cylinder temp seemed to be going up some what normal would indicate that the 2 left cylinders were getting proper spark and fuel. I'm suspicious it still is a fuel issue. I’m going start it up tomorrow morning, cold, and record the cylinder temps. Meanwhile any suggestion for me to think and plan would be appreciated. I’d like to start with the less expensive and simpler solutions. Thanks -
Anyone have a good rear master brake cylinder? My 92 xvz13d has a pitted one and the pedal will drop out after a couple days riding. Sorry about the repeated message. This is the first time I've done a forum or thread and i have no idea what i'm doing! Pete -
Anyone have a rear master brake cylinder? I bled the brakes on my first gen. Foot brake works great for a few days, then pedal will push all the way down - no resistance, no brakes. I pulled the master cyl apart and it is pitted. Anyone have any suggestions? Looks like it is obsolete. Didn't see one on ebay either. Thanks, Pete
-
OK the project got started yesterday. Yesterday I took off my floorboard and brake pedal and removed the old master cylinder. Today I did a little planning and thinking and fabricating. I decided to use the stock brake pushrod and I am fabricating a mounting plate for the master cylinder. I am tapping the side mounting holes on the new master cylinder so I can bolt it to the plate. The plate is going to be bolted to the brake pedal equalizer mount. I am slotting the holes so that the master can be adjusted up and down a little, and adjusted closer and further away from the brake pedal. I did a lot of hacking away on the piece that is the brake pedal mount so that the fabricated bracket will work out. I am trying to avoid drilling holes into the frame if at all possible. I have been taking pictures but probably not enough for a step by step illustration. I will make a template of the mounting plate once it is finished, I'm using 1/8 inch aluminum. My next obstacle is coming up with a nice SS brake line to go from the master back to the T block that will be SAE on the Master cylinder end and metric on the T block end. More to follow and pictures...
-
One of the screw holes used for securing the top cover on my clutch master cylinder is stripped. The screw is fine. Its the hole that is boogered. I currently have a slightly longer screw in there which did bite but I am not happy with it. Has anyone tried repairing the hole with a heli-coil or Does any one have a master cylinder that I can buy? Thanks, Ray -
Lost my clutch shifting into third yesterday got lucky and road it home in second ( about 2 miles) I beleive it' the SLAVE CYLINDER only becuse I can't find any leaks all lines seem good . I is there any where on this site that has Pictures so that I know what to look for when I pull the cylinder It's only $20 for spring and new seals so I figured I would do that first and go from there I did bleed it but got just enough clutch to get into neutral so I could push it into garage. ANY advice comments etc... would be greatly appreciated. Oh 1999 Venture and it was going bad the other day and I bled it and got about 150 miles and this happened.
-
Well i decided to take one of my 2 new bikes out for a good long test ride today. Went over 200 miles and the bike ran flawlessly, minus the rear master cylinder seizing up and almost burning out my back brake. Only got 34 mpg though.
-
I am currently in the market for a rear master cylinder or a rebuild kit. Any help would be greatly appreciated! -
Hi folks.. Yesterday I had the bike parked outside in the cold for a few hours while cleaning out the garage (30'F or less with the winds?). Today I noticed a noticeable green coolant fluid puddle under the bike, about the size of your flat hand on the floor.. I pulled the cooling fins off the front right cylinder and saw where coolant leaked out of the hole (as seen in photo). I think this is the frost plug? The bike was not run that day nor were any leaks apparent before. I pulled the other three covers off and saw the same thing but not as much fluid leaked out as on the front right cylinder.. Best that I can tell the majority of the fluid on the floor came from this cylinder. What's the remedy for this, a quick fix or an expensive repair etc? Any info would be highly appreciated.. Thanks in advance.
-
The other day I ran into a guy that needed to sell a 1983 venture that his father in law had sent down to him from PA. he didn't want it because they were getting ready to move. timing is a great thing, I picked this bike up for $1000 and it only had 24000 actual miles on it, garage stored the whole time not even a scratch. the carbs were gummed up, I went through them, checked the compression it was good 130psi on each cylinder, good spark but still runs like it is only running on half the cylinders. sluggish week. if any one has any suggestions on what to check for nest, PLEASE tell. and Thank You for all for the great website. Steve
