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Showing results for tags 'carbs'.
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Seems like there are ALOT of carb issue threads, so I may as well add one more. I've been wrking on my 83 which supposedly ran just fine a couple of years ago. I saved the bike from the scrap yard due to transmission issues. I upgraded to a 1300 trans and now trying to get the bike running. The carbs ended up being really really dirty, after going thru them a couple of times, the bike runs now, but I'm having an issue with a bad delay when I give it throttle coming off of idle, and then a very slow drop from 2500 rpm back down to idle. The carbs are really nice and clean inside, every passage seems very clear now. I did not mess with float levels, nor did I check them. I have sync'd the carbs using a carb stick and that went well. I did not replace anything, not even the diaphraghms because they look to be in excellent condition. The slides all dance about the same when the bike is running. No vacuum leaks at all that I can find. I've sprayed starting fluid around the intake boots and bottoms of the carbs and no leaks. Any ideas of what to look for next?
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So I thought I had it licked but back to the drawing board I guess. My 85 is kinda new to me. I bought it awhile ago but until the summer I just sat and waited for my attention. PO needed money and it was to good a deal. I have done alot of work thus far, from draining the gas tank to replacing the fuel lines and filter and ran a can of sea foam thru. After the filter was changed it seemed to run better but today I went for a good 200km ride and its not fixed. I have not opened the carbs yet. I was hoping to avoid that, seafoam has worked on other bikes I have owned in the past.....I believe the bike sat for 2 years ish before I got it. On the road it pulls ok up to 4000rpm then dies....like its running on pilot jets. Check the plugs and they are black? To much fuel? New air filter. The bike starts and idles perfect. Just won't pull on the road, I mean these bike were known to pull.....hell its a vmax motor....ideas as to why it would run aok up to 4000rpm and then die's out....hard to stay at 100kms/hr in 5th?? My Buell would go 100 in 1st/2nd!! HELP! Any, even bad imput is ok with me:) Does someone in Ontario excell at carbs? My budget is kinda tight and it seems to be a big job if the carbs need to come out according to my searches on the site. Thanks a bunch!!
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Okay so here's what happened: Occasionally, my bike drops a cylinder or two, both on the right side, for no apparent reason. My cute boyfriend, who knows what he's doing, found that the problem was not ignition related and decided to pull the carbs out and clean them up. The carbs were filthy throughout, but what was unusual was that he found that the rear carbs both had the 122.5 jets installed, but the fronts had two different jets, a 117.5 and the other which was visually a different size (couldn't READ the numbers.) Not having any idea why they would be different, but also not having any good reason to wait on an answer to this question (the bike ran fine, aside from the occasional loss of the right side cylinder) he put it all back together and Carbtuned them and the bike runs great. Hasn't been back on the road long enough to discern whether or not the arbitrary loss of cylinder(s) has been cured. But, herein lies the question: WHY WOULD THERE BE 2 DIFFERENT JETS IN THE FRONT CARBS? We (he) knows why the jets are different from front to rear, but this is the first time he's ever seen a set of carbs with 2 the same jets in the rear and 2 TOTALLY different jets in the front. Has anyone else seen this before?
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Can anyone tell me if and how much the cv slides should bounce while the engine is running? If I blip the throttle just a bit, they move quite a bit. Does this indicate a problem? Starting to take the carbs out and apart and man they are dirty!
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I have a vibration from my motor between 1-3k rpms, its not real bad but I can fell it thru my seat and floorboards. The carbs have been synced and the valves have been adjusted. any ideas?
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Hi All, New Member here and learning a lot. I have 2002 Midnight Venture with less than 8000 miles. She still has the original tires. Below is a picture. Lately she has been been doing nothing much beyond sitting in the garage collecting cobwebs. At one point several months ago I brought a new battery and went to start it up. It did not start and there was fuel leaking from the carb overflows. I am in SW Florida and and we have 10% ethanol in our gas and I'm figuring that did me in. Thanks to the great article from Freebird: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7830 I got the carbs off and cleaned up. Now the bike runs great and idles great. I had them on and off about 8 times before I finally got it right. On the last attempt I looked through one of the pilot jets and realized the tiny pinhole was a bit smaller than the rest. No amount of blowing would clear it. I have a carb cleaning tool that has wires in various diameters. I poked the smallest one through a good pilot jet and felt no resistance. I then poked it through the one with the smaller pinhole and felt resistance. I pushed it through and then blew it out again. I could *see* some crud fly out of it. After that it finally idled OK. Only issue is that I somehow ended up with a left over screw that I *think* is from the bike. Probably from the area around the middle of the bike because I also replaced the fuel filter and checked out the fuel pump which turned out to be OK. There is a picture of the screw. It is a philips head and about 3/4 inch long with a washer. If anybody recognizes it and knows where it goes, I would appreciate it if you could let me know. Since I got so much from this forum already, I would like to contribute something. One of the warnings in dealing with these carbs is to not lose the tiny O-Ring in the edge of the bodies that gets exposed when you remove the diaphragms. Of course I lost one - perhaps it was never there. At any rate, I had a set of O-rings I picked up a while ago from Harbor Freight to fix a leaky hand held sprayer. The smallest in this set worked pretty well in the carb and I like I said, the bike is running real sweet now. There are some pics showing the O-ring set and the label. Your biggest problem will be what to do with the other 381 o-rings in the set. I also found that using plastic cups to protect the intake while the carbs were off worked pretty well. Thanks again Freebird for the great article. I probably would not even have tried this without it as a guide. After about the 4th time taking them on and off, I was able to do it in about 10 minutes. First time is always hardest!
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Hello Im completly new at this here street bike experience, I bought a 1996 Royal star. Not Realising that two of the carbs had striped fuel mixture screws holes, now Im searching and looking around on Ebay and so on for a used set of carbs. New each carb at Yamaha is almost $600 I cant not aford that at all. Im hoping that you guys might be able to tell me what years and models may be swaped onto my bike. I tried the local Yaamaha Dealers and the are not helpfull at all, they dont want to share part #s so I may compare and try to figure out what might swap. Thanks for your attention... -
Anyone have a good step by step procedure on how to swap an MKII carb. My 89 carbs are acting up and would like to put the carbs from my wrecked 91 in. Then I'll rebuild the 89 carb. -
So I started looking for my proverbial gas smell on my 89. Couldn't find anything wet or seeping. Decided to sync the carbs. I also checked the vacuum caps that I had to remove to hook up the sync hoses. I checked them by sucking on them and letting them stick to my lip. The last one I checked would not create suction. I could not find a crack, or leak, but it would not create suction. So, I replaced it with one off of the 87. after syncing and the new cap, boy...it runs smooth. Here is the question: When syncing the 89, the Carbtune reading was close to 32 on the scale. Is there a level/reading that it should be ? What/how is that adjusted ? I was able to balance the carbs and the sides. I was also playing with my 87 and even though I still have major carb issues on that one, The reading was around 20 on the scale. Now I know that the 87 could, and probably is not an accurate reading due to the carb issues, but it got me thinking about the readings. -
Just heard that State Route #130, a toll road between San Antonio and Austin, TX, are changing the speed limit to 85 mph! Now that should be a good way to clean out your carbs! Yama Mama:225::225:
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i purchased a Carbtune about two years ago and shortly thereafter sync'd my carb. i thought it wouldn't hurt to re-sync, so i hooked up the Carbtune and lo and behold all four bars were within a gnat behind of each other. to those who are more familiar with syncing, my question - "is it normal for the carbs to stay synchronized"? btw the bike has been running great and i don't really have any complaints after 36k miles.
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I finally got home from over the pond and decided with all the warm dry weather to get the 1st gen out. Guess what? it wouldn't run without the choke on. If I tried to rev it up it just died. Bit of history, 86 Venture Royale. 36,000 miles, stock with the exceptions of upgraded fuse block, I put the aftermarket CDI box on it (bought through Dingy). Progressive springs, fork brace. After all the mods last year, I rode it for 18 miles and it ran great. I drained the carbs, put stabil in the gas and it sat until today. I drained the old gas out of the tank and put new in replaced the fuel filter, and tried to fire it up it wouldnt run without the choke on. Today I pulled the carbs, and cleaned them fully, I did find one of the little plugs in the carb on the bottom of the main jet block kind of looking mushy. ( they were new a year ago with a full carb overhaul. (Done by a carb re-builder) I replaced it with a new one from a kit I had left over. I tried it again and the same thing. Pulled the carbs again and made sure everything was good. The diaphrams are new last year, I replaced the plugs, checked for vacuum leaks and bad plug wires didn't find anything wrong. It still wont run without full choke. I even put the known good stock CDI box on and tried it. Still don't work. I am out of ideas to find the problem. I dont use the gas with the ethonol in it. can anyone help? rjjammer -
I stumbled across a couple of vacum gauges I had in the drawer. If I was to use these to sync up the carbs do I do the left 2 carbs together, then the right 2 and then connect the gauges to say the front left and front right and match them up. That is what I get from the sync article I read here, if I break it down right.
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I have heard of people gutting or straight piping their factory exhaust. How would you go about this? I.E. pulling the exhaust apart, gutting etc. and would you have to re-jet the carbs or no?
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My 2004 RSMV has developed a fluctuating idle, which seems to get worse the warmer the engine gets. It surges 800-1200 on the tach, and up to about 1500 rpm, then smooths out. I'm due for a valve adjustment and am planning to do that soon, but this happened suddenly, in the middle of a ride. I didn't start gradually and get worse. I pulled the carbs and removed the bowls and sprayed everything I could get to with carb cleaner, checked the float levels (all were good) and changed the fuel filter. I didn't split the carbs or completely tear them down yet. Air filters are fine, and I'll probably do plugs just to rule them out. I'm currently running some B12 thru it, and it seems a little better, but it's still there. Hoping this rings a bell for someone. I'm going to do a complete tear down on the carbs when I do the valves, and re sync if no one has any other ideas. Thanks for the help. Jon -
Hi all. Well after years of turning one of my ventures in to chopper trike I am very happy with the outcome, few things still to be worked out and one of them is the carbs, The combo I have is a 83 motor with 87 stock carbs, stock air box and filter with Harley stock pipes I am very lean on the air fuel ratio all carbs read the same , two turns out on the pilot resulted in a white spark plug poor mid range, poor top end, and with 100 miles of test driving I am now at four turns on the pilot from full in, all spark plugs now reads gray in colour, on the road trike rides with OK mid range and poor top end power/ pulling power. So from here I'm thinking just go up one on the main jet, or should I go with 83 jets and needles to better suit the 83 motor, on ebay there is a jet kit for the 1200 and a kit tor the 1300 motor, not sure if I want or need to go that far as I don't know which kit to go with the 12 or the 13. Any one who has been down the road on this one I would love to have some input, thanks
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i recently rebuilt the carbs in the bike and now they overflow for no reason. if i put the bike up on the centerstand and shut of the fuel the bike become more responsive untill it begins to starve, i turn on the fuel and the leak stops for however long i feel like letting it run. i get on drop it off the kick stand and begin driving it begins pouring it out the overflow as fast as the pump can trow it. ive taken them appart again and hooked each carb to the fuel line manually and turned on the bike while pressing up on the float. the fuel flow stops as soon as the float presses on the valve. so the valves appear to be working. ive taken all the floats out and submerged them in fuel and will check on them in a few hours to see it they are sinking but they dont apear to be. any ideas on why this leak is being so intermittent and limited to the right bank only but all 4 carbs are running super rich. -
Hello All, I'd like to think i'm not a complete idiot (perhaps this is merely wishful thinking)... I have a '96 RS (boulevard?) and i belive is a XVZ13A. http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/2012-07-20_11-40-40_132.jpg I have the had this bike only for a couple of weeks and have been pretty happy with it other than the pesky vibration in 4th and 5th gears. I have read (and have been told) that i need to sync my carbs, so i bought a motion pro (i've read that the glycol will stick to the tubes of the gage and sure enough they do and i already wish i had gotten a morgan carbtune). At any rate, after calibrating the tool and hooking it up to the carbs the sync looked like this. http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/2012-07-29_14-15-33_156.jpg So i began to sync the carbs using this page from my clymer manual http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/2012-07-29_20-14-38_307.jpg However, this page is very different than the carb sync in some of the tchnical lbraries here as well as on Venturers http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002010&id=311 Well, to say the least i never got the carbs sync'd correctly and it's now worse. The screw to sync 1-2 worked perfect but the others adjustments didn't work correctly. Though i haven't ridden it, it backfires and pops and smells "hot" (lean) after adjusting the "A" screw to sync 4-3 and then the "B" screw to sync 2-4. Can anyone with a '96 tell me if the page from the book that i have attached is correct? If not can anyone tell me what the "A" and the "B" screws do on my bike so i can get them back to what they should be? Thanks in advance all. John
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hello all i got the carbs in today and cked and cleaned them put them on the bike and it is running back to normel again the carbs did the trick i hope to get them sync at the ashville railly next month i do not know what is wrong with my carbs but nice to be running again i want to thank everyone for there help on trying to fix the problem bumble bee 1999 rsv
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hello i will getting my carbs from pinwall tomorrow what all do i need to do before i put them on the bike i will of corse be putting sea foam in the tank first time and i hope that this will fix my proble with the rt rear cycl bumble bee 1999 rsv
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ok i went on a search on flebay pinwalls stuff and found a set of carbs for an 05 to 07 RSTD does anyone know if they are the 32 mm carbs i would need to do the carb swap for my 99 RSTD so i would (could) try to catch some of those 1st genners if it is and will work i can get them for 89.00 plus shipping just have to save up for that maybe by next week then come the intake boots and other stuff needed
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hello all as many may know i have had a bad running porblem with rt rear cycl i have ceaned jets changed coil took to two different shop last one dealer thay adj valves and tryed to sync carbs it is running better but still at 50 mph breaks down and will not run smooth dealer wanted to start changing parts hoping that it would fix it instead of trying to dignos it so i orded a set of carbs from pinwall today and hope that it will take care of problem the dealer said that with the bike being 12 rears old with 67000 mile it will never run right again i told him it did not mater how many mile or how old. it ran great before the problem started and should run right again if fixed correctly i guess ther are no mach only part changers bumble bee 1999 rsv
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Had it done yesterday and they were perfect. No adjustment needed. They did sync the carbs though. Whole job was $391. 5.2 hours labor.
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I have been diligently reading all the carburetor posts and articles hoping that I would discover the secrets to remedy the problems with mine. I have only been partially successful thus far. I did find vacuum leaks between the boots from the air-box to the top of the carbs. Took it all apart, cleaned and reassembled. Started up and there was still a leak, a boot had slipped off of the carb. I have redone this process several times and the boots will not stay on top of the carbs when enough force is applied to stop the leaks. Is this a problem that is familiar to anyone?
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I want to send out a big Thank You to all the folks on this list that have done work on their bikes before me, and have posted the mechanical and technical highlights and info, so that people that follow in their footsteps have an easier time of doing the same thing. For all of you that post info on this forum about improvements, additions, etc., and especially if you include pictures...Thank you. You know who you are, and "I" appreciate it. Today I received in the mail my new Speedhealer from HealTech, and my new Morgan Carbtune Pro, from Calif. Sportbike. Due to the info from trailblazers on this forum, I was able to pre-read all the details prior to my receiving the packages, and was very ready once the items did show up. Now, the speedo on the RSMTD reads accurately, and the carbs are nicely balanced. While the carbs were not too far out, it is nice to KNOW that they are now balanced, and that the engine does in fact run smoother. As a gearhead myself, I want to KNOW the facts of my engine...not just assume. Now, to all you VR and RSTD owners within the PNW, if anyone wants me to ride over to your place and adjust your carbs...for FREE...just let me know. If you want to, you are welcome to ride over to my place...but I am always looking for a reason to go ride somewhere. I will bring all the tools needed, so I will be happy to do the balancing, and show you how it is done. Remember...it is FREE. Thanks,
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