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Showing results for tags 'bolt'.
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Lost the pinch bolt on the rear axel. Can someone tell me the size?
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muffler slip on issue
Indyventure posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I'm hoping someone can give me some advice. 89 VR about 70k on her and I have a rear wheel bearing that has worn out. what i thought would be the easy part, getting the right side slip on can off, is now apparently going to be the toughest. the joint is all rusted together and I can't get it to brake loose. I got the old muffler clamp off by twisting the head of the bolt off. the joint obviousy is rusty. I've soaked in penetrating fluid for a few days now. it looks cleaner but not budging. I've tried hitting the end with a hammer..nothing. tried heat..nothing. put a strap around the can so I could have someone pull as i hammered below...nothing. i did remove the mount bolt by the rear footrest. any help would be appreciated. I'm worried I'm going damage the collector if I rip and snort much more. can the rear wheel be dropped any lower by removing a linkage bolt? I need to get the rear axle out. thanks much Bob. -
Well....I took the standard out for a boot today....not bad but really wobbley in the curves. It supposedly has a newer clutch but it was slipping when I really twisted it.. Worse thing....I had it on the side stand....and twisted the handlebars towards the right....I heard a BANG and it suddenly wanted to lean a LOT more! Found out the bang was when the side stand bolt snapped off! Without the bolt holding it together, the stand "fork" was spreading from the weight of the bike...so it was leaning more than ususal. It probably would have fallen over if I had just let it go. So now I gotta find a new bolt. It looks like a special bolt with the bushing built into it. -
I've got a question for those that have had their stators jump off the crankshaft when they've left the puller on overnight. When I started to pull mine, I loosened the attachment bolt several turns, then attached my puller with 100mm long bolts. I don't see how it could jump off--it still has the attachment bolt that'll stop it in 1/8" or so. You would have to remove the bolt completely for it to jump off, but what would you push on?? Of coures as of this morning when I left for work mine still hadn't come loose. Am I missing something?? Also, what is special about the PCW Racing puller that make it cost so much?? It says that it's guaranteed to pull the rotor first try. The only difference I see is that the bolts that you screw into the rotor have that piece on them that keeps them straight. Frank
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went for a ride to the dragon this weekend. Every thing felt good there and back till my last stop. When I went to downshift on the exit ramp the shifter pedal went from normal to pointing straight down to the ground. I talked top muffinmman and he said to check the bolt that held the shifter to the transmision spline( think thats what it is called). the one that comes out of the side of the tranny. The bolt was loose but not broke so I tightened it up. Hers where it gets weird. Before I tightened the bolt I could shift up or down by hand . Now it is stuck in 5th gear. will not shift. I did pull the cog off of the splined gear to check , I think i got it bac in the same place not sure. help please as its too soo to end my year and I cant afford to put her in the shop just yet. Any ideas will be appreciated. My # is 336 707 5561 if anyone has any ideas that they arent sure they can explain over the internet or if you kneed more explanations of what Ive done. Im not a mechanic so I stopped where i was as Im not sure if it not changing is me putting it in a bind or if it want change because it cold as its always a little hard to get it to change before you warm it up. Again any help will be appreciated. David. -
Changing coolant tonight, reviewing the coolant change tips etc. (Thanks for those). Did the complete drain including water pump, but did not want to remove the exhaust, Just not a fan of that. So started looking at it and what I had in my tool box and Bam! Serpentine belt tool. If you happen to have the one I have, its a Lisle if I remember correctly, and it comes with a set of three different size very shallow sockets and the end of the socket has a hex that fits into the flat bar for the serpentine belt. And yes it fits in from the side without removing the exhaust. Total depth of everything is less than an inch. One caveat is my particular set only comes with an 18mm socket (3/4" equivalent). It is a six point and fits well enough to remove the drain bolt. If you have an older bike with some miles or the coolant has never been changed in years and you suspect the drain bolt might be stuck ( after all its a steel bolt into aluminum), This might not work.My bike at 4 1/2 ears old and 16,000 miles, the bolt broke loose easily. I'll check and see if Lisle has a 17mm that fits my Serpentine belt tool. The tool comes with a drive adapter too so I could grind down a 17 mm socket to get it shallow enough to work in the future. I'll try and post a picture tomorrow. Getting too late. Having said all that, when I saw what came out of the water pump drain bolt, even having the ability to remove it easily, I probably wouldn't bother pulling it again. But for those who like to get out every last drop, but don't want to pull the exhaust, here's one way to do it. RSTDdog
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Am looking for the OEM part number (2008 RSV) of the bolt that secures the Passenger Arm Rest to the Bike (Rear Bolt that secures under the Right Rear Speaker. It appears mine has vibrated out. Anyone got it?
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I'm working on putting the original engine for my MKI back together. It hald fallen off my trailer and the valve covers and a couple side covers had gotten cracked and/or beaten up. With the help of some generous members, I think I have everything I need to put it back together. So now I have all the parts and a bucket full of bolts sitting on my work bench. I'm trying to figure out which bolts go where. Unless I'm not looking in the right part of my manual, it only tells me the diameter of the bolts that hold the part in place. As in 6mm,8mm, and 10mm. But how long is the bolt supposed to be for that particular hole? I can look at a microfiche and find out the P/N for the bolt, but still no dimensions. Would anybody happen to have some sort of reference that can tell me the lengths of the bolts according to either P/N or location? Thanks, Bill
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OK guys. I screwed my courage to the sticking point and with a good buddy we are taking the tires off the 87. Following Freebirds pictures and a bit of native intelligence we did OK - except - for that daggone rear wheel brake caliper retaining bolt - the rear bolt that attaches to the bracket. It just won't come off. It is damaged as well. and the socket wont fit on it any more. How the heck do we get it off? The bolt head is chewed up something awful. Any ideas out there in Venture Land?
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What carb can i use on my 1983 venture that i can bolt it on and just go:confused24: -
In the process of getting ready to adjust the valves, I find I don't have anything that will turn the crankshaft. What did anyone successfully use to turn the crank after removing the crome cover? 17mm won't go in the hole, 16 goes but won't fit the bolt. So far, I haven't found a thin wall 17mm. I've got grinder, and I'm not opposed to it, but grinding the wall of a 17 just don't seem right - somehow. tks chuck
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Evening all, I am looking for a pair of Venture passenger grab bars to put on my 08 RSTD. I am going to bolt the front of the grab bar on the fender bracket (just like on a Venture) and then fabricate something to hold them together behind the seat with a mount running to my rear seat bolt. I want to do this so I can add the Venture passenger arm rests that Diamond Accessories sells. We are headed to Deals Gap in July to run the Dragon and go to Star Days. I am trying to make my wife's ride a little more comfortable without putting on the entire Venture pack (too expensive). I have a Corbin seat which we both like so I don't want to replace it. I have tried Pinwall cycle but they don't have any. Any one got another source for used bike parts or maybe have a set on a shelf in their garage that they would want to sell? -
Axle clamp bolt - dumb question?
Godlover posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
When I removed my front wheel all I needed to do was loosen the main axle bolt and remove the calipers. I mounted the new tire and put the wheel back on then torqued the bolt to 58lbs. I read on a forum about an axle clamp bolt - is there a bolt I need to tighten to secure the main axle bolt? -
I installed leveling links on my RSV today and immediately felt like I was riding a new bike. I can't believe how much easier it is to handle. Two things: I felt more air as I was sitting up higher and looking over the windshield - and I used my Carbon One adapter and couldn't take the bolt out so I had to lower the bike and just use the jack. If you haven't installed the links you are missing a great ride!
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I need the 2 bars that slide inside the mounts and the hitch. I also need the 2 vertical brackets and U clamps that come up from the chrome tabs. Any one have these or know of a source for Markland parts? If I really have to I can fabricate all of these parts, but it would be a lot easier to just bolt the right stuff on.
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I ordered the Light Bar Bracket from Tony on here and today when I thought I would at least loosen the bolts that holds the light bar on...I barely could get the right one out...but it finally broke loose and I was able to unscrew it. But the left one was already slighly worn out...and it is so tight I can't get it. Now the 5mm hex key can't get a good hold in the bolt. Why would they tighten those THAT tight...especially when they are so hard to get to. I even bought a set of ball end hex wrenches. So, short of taking the thing back to the dealer to put the bracket on...anyone got any ideas as to a way to remove this wollared out bolt. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Wally
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"Brown Sugar" has decided to start leaking pretty bad on valve covers. mostly rear one. I'm going to try snugging them down but that can cause them to get worse. I know they have a shoulder on these bolt so easy does it. Question is which 2nd gen gasket is the easy to install one? Any of them? Or certain year.
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After waiting 2 months for my OEM Yamaha chrome rails, they came and boy, they were purdy. Trying to put them on was not. The ends of both, where they tapped, were wallowed out. not enough thread to get bolt started. Spent greater part of the the day trying to find a 5mm bolt 2 5/8" long(or millimeter equilivent. Finally got frustrated with the whole ordeal and bought (2)-5 mm nuts and mig welded them to the ends of the rails. Screwed BOLT with nut attached into end of rail first to ensure proper alignment. But I wasn't done yet, I had to drill holes in chrome fittings 1/16th bigger to line up with their origional threads in all 4 end caps and chamfer. Good thing I had a pair of soft jaws for my vise. I dont mind paying for quality but these Yamaha rails are anything but. Even the 45 degree angles? were serrated like someone machined them with a broken end mill. And NO, I was not about to send them back after waiting 2 MONTHS for them.
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Looking at page 5-40 service manual, but can't get it to copy here. When the bolt that goes thru ARM-1, Relay Arm, and Lower fitting or Rear Shock is tightened down, the shock locks up to ARM-1(does not pivot freely). Can see what is happening, bushings 'G' press into bushing of lower shock and 'lock up' Bushing of lower shock appears to be molded into the rubber isolator of lower shock. It takes siginficant force to rotate shock around pivot of ARM-1, this can't be correct, can it? Can't figure any way to 1. Keep pressure of bushings 'G' off bushing of lower shock so shock bushing can rotate around bolt shank.(dont think this would be correct for shock to work directly on the bolt) or 2. Allow shock to rotate around lower shock bushing/rubber isolater Removed entire shock/link system due to this issue, installed zerk fittings and lubed. All other pivot points work great. Ideas/ Suggestions? Brian
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What is proper assembly of rear wheel on 83 xvz12? From right 1. axle bolt 2. washer 3. brake caliper bracket 4. ??missing spacer?? 5. RH oilseal and bearing 6. etc... I seem to have too much gap on right side, and brake caliper bracket is clear to move too far?? toward wheel, bumping brake rotor bolt heads
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I am need of some help. I have finally got my parts but I am having problems putting my windshield back on. The book don't show how to put it back on. I don't even know if I have all the parts. I have two brackets with rubber on one end and then 2 bolt holes on the other that has what I would call guide pins that the bolts go through. It looks to me like they go down at the bottom in front but I don't know if the rubber goes up or down. Then I cant figure out how to bolt the rest of it up. I can see 2 bolt holes up at the top by the mirrors but I don't know if there is supposed to be a bracket that goes between the windshield and the frame. Next I have a bracket left over that I don't know where goes. Mine is green and looks kind of like a butterfly. There is four bolt holes one on each corner and then 2 bolts that look to be pressed in coming up through the middle. The old one has plastic broken off still attached like it would go to a fender or something like that.
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I seem to have lost the "chrome" top rear saddlebag bolt spacer (2nd Gen). What's the best place to get a replacement? Dave
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Any ideas how to remove a stripped Allen bolt? My plan was to remove the saddlebags so I could install the Saddlebag rails that I purchased. The Allen bolts where so tight.. That I stripped one of them…what would be the best way to remove that stripped Allen bolt?
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Went to take the tank off this evening; one front side Allen head bolt removed with ease; the other one stripped like butter. Now what? Can't grip the head with vice grips; tried three different styles/size with no success. Cutting off the head would do no good because the bolt sticks out about 1/2 inch into the gas tank mount. The gas tank mount doesn't seem to have much give to pry it from the bolt if all that was removed was the head. Any ideas?
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