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Showing results for tags 'air'.
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Is there a trick for getting to the air filters? I need to change the filters, but so far I haven't been able to figure out how to get to them.
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I installed a Stebel air horn last year and worked fine up until last November. All of a sudden, it quit working. It will work if I direct connect it to the battery to test it. Rechecked connections and replaced air horn relay. Still nothing when I hit the horn button. The front horn still works. Any suggestions?
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It is the air preasure sensor (circled on the parts picture below) used on the 1st gen class air suspension sytem, found on 1983-93 Venture royals
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Trying different things but whats the best air pressure for the front and rear and dial setting, 1,2,or 3. I ride most of the time weighing about 225. When my wife ride with me thats about 150 more. Now i have the dial on 2 and air about 35 in each. Seems soft and comfy for me but front has bottomed out on some bumps. -
You may have seen my post: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59272&highlight=trailer about getting my trailer out for the first time. Do I need to add air to my rear shocks? I'll be riding 2up but we only weight about 280 together. I don't know how much air I have in there now but I think it's pretty much zero.... Thanks!
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ughhhh..I hate brakes. I rebuilt my calipers on my 84 and have been bleeding or attempting to bleed the brakes.. the front right is fine, but I simply cannot get the air out of the left front/ rear...no matter how much i bleed with a vac, i still get a steady stream of bubbles....much more than normal.. I have to be getting air in the system somewhere, but can't find where...checked banjo bolts and bleeders....calipers are working.....rear seems to have less air than the front left... any idea where i might have a leak.. i never messed with the junction near the steering neck. darn.. this is beyond frustrating.. I've been battling this for days... clay -
Saw a nice looking Venture trike outside of the Beaufort air show today.
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It seems that some of the Saturns are plagued with horn button failure. It sticks closed, thus the horn blows continuiously. Well I am lucky enough to have bought a 2003 Vue with this malady. The problem is that the horn "button" is part of the $700.00 air bag. As you can guess I ain't gonna replace the airbag. I have found a schematic that shows a black and a black/white wire on the dash side of the steering column, which I wish to intercept. That way I can put a $2.50 "Rat-Shack" push button on the dash. Well I have cut in to the red wire in the airbag, which when grounded makes the horn blow. My problem is that I have checked EVERY wire under the steering column cover between the clock spring and the dash. NONE is common to the red wire in the air bag. as a temporary fix I have wired the switch to the red wire in the air bag and left it hanging out from under the air bag cover. Pray tell, do any of you know where the #28 wire is to be found going down the steering column?
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Here it is in a nutshell. One time I will get on and the compressor will start as soon as I turn the key, but adding very little air the the suspension. The next time I turn on the key it dumps the air. Any ideas? This is getting very frustrating. Oh yea, the display shows either 8.8 or 0 all the time it is on. Shaun
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I had a little noticeable "bounce" in the steering head...first thought..check air pressure... The first side I checked was 5 psi...other side 7 psi. When I went to relieve some pressure from the 7 psi side, I had both a small amount of oil and air escape the schraeder valve. Question -> Should OIL be coming out of the air schraeder valve? Is this normal?
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up date on diaphragm prices from sirius consolidated with venture rider.org order is 69.99 for 4 plus 6.oo air mail or13.25 ups. up 9.99 on diaphragms and 1.00 on air mail. still not to bad when you need what you need ! i am not complaining mind you just passing on the info.
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Bought a new 2009 RSV in June of 09 off the showroom floor. It ran OK but felt no where near the power I had when I rode my 06 RSV. I took it in the summer of 2010 and asked the dealer about low power. They shimmed the carbs and I rode off and it still lacked the power I had in the 2006. I was gone away most last year with work and didn't ride much. This year while in an email conversation with a fellow VentureRider in Canada he suggested a set of K&N filters. I ordered a set and installed them this week I can't believe the difference! It's unbelievable a set of air filters will make it run stronger, I knew I had a carb problem but never dreamed the stock air filters were holding back that much air. I don't know if others will benefit from this simple upgrade but I couldn't be happier and highly recommend K&N filters. Thanks Randy
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I am looking for the part number for the air hose from the crankcase to the breather box, which would be the larger hose.(back center of box) All diagrams I found only show one hose, which is the smaller one in the frone right corner. Can anyone help:fingers-crossed-emo Oh, I have an 84 VR. thanks
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The boat I got last year has a set of air horns in it. I don't think I need them on the boat as much as on my '83 vr! I haven't dug into it yet so I don't even know what parts need to be moved...I assume there has to be some sort of compressor as well as the horns themselves. I've read about needing relays when adding just about any electrical stuff to our bikes. Is there a concern of how much power they draw? what relay do I need? (if any) Does the relay used depend on the draw? I assume it goes on the hot wire between the battery and load? I wouldn't think so, but just to be sure, should it be close to the battery or close to the load or does it matter? And lastly....what the heck does a relay DO anyway?
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On my 83 VR I have been going through each system and part. Well I have now gotten to the air ride control and have a weird problem. It lights up and appears to work with the key in the accessory position but not when the key is in the on position. Any ideas? Shaun
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Well I got into the brakes again. Now that I know how to bleed the left front out. I started by getting the resivor open. This I thought was going to be a pain but it popped right loose and was not bad at all. After topping off the fluid I started to bleed it out. I did it old school but still cheated. I made a check valve that would allow the air to exit but not re-enter. After 2 cups of coffee and 45 minutes of pumping the pedal up and down I had all the air out and good clean new fluid throughout the system. I want to thank you all for informing me how the brakes were set up and how to bleed them out. Shaun
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A special thanks to Ken Chapin (WuzFuzz) for his permission to post this write-up to the the VentureRider tech library. I found it hard to believe that YAMAHA states that regular fork oil changes are not needed on the 2nd Gen RSV. During my winter teardown process, I decided to open things up and have a look. Apparent right away is the fact the the forks do NOT have a designated drain. You can, however, remove the lower fork damper bolt. This bolt screws into the internal damper rod which has a rebound spring encompassing it. This bolt basically ties the internal components of the fork assembly together. I have the benefit of a centerstand on my '03 Midnight, so it was easy to use my floor-jack to raise and support the bike so that the front wheel is off the ground. Remove the caps from the fork air valves and release any air pressure. Next the front axle has to be removed so that access can be gained to the damper bolt at the bottom of each fork. The wheel/tire can remain in where it is --- in between the forks. You will now need a 6mm Allen head socket with a long reach to access the damper bolt itself. Prior to loosening the bolt, give it a couple of raps with a hammer to break loose any corrosion that may be locking the threads. I also have the luxury of a compressor and air tools, but the bolt can be loosened with a regular socket wrench. The inch long Allen bolt with its companion copper sealing washer will come out with the fork oil draining from behind it. Have a catch pail handy as over half a liter of oil will be draining. To speed up the draining process, you can remove the Schraeder valve from the air fitting on the top of the fork. Repeat the process on the other fork. I found the thin 5W fork oil somewhat on the dark and dirty side.............. looking nowhere near like new oil. My '03 currently shows just over 30,000 kilometers on it. I then used my air compressor to blow down through the forks to expel the remaining oil out through the damper rod hole at the bottom of each fork. When the oil quits draining ---- I left mine to sit overnight --- you can reinstall the damper bolt and its small copper sealing washer with a little sealer on the threads. It is best to lower the front end so that compression of the forks and their inner components takes place and alignment of the damper rod meets with the access hole. Tighten the bolt securely and use a torque wrench to obtain the specified 14 ft lbs. Refilling the forks with fresh fork oil takes a little longer but it can be done with a filler hose from a bicycle pump and a squeeze bottle or large syringe from a vet supply house or pet store. I chose to refill my forks with BelRay 15W in the specified amount of 553 cc per fork. First, make sure that the Schraeder valve is not in the air fitting. Then attach the screw-on filler hose from a bicycle pump onto the Schraeder valve. The squeeze bottle I use is equipped with a large bore needle on the end. It is also marked for volume and I attach it to the open end of the filler hose. Due to the smaller orifice of the Schraeder valve, it takes somewhat longer to fill the forks than it does to empty them. I would estimate that it took about 10 minutes per fork to squeeze the specified 553 cc of fork oil into each tube. When you have inserted the specified amounts, remove the bicycle hose, reinstall the valve into the fitting and preload the forks with your desired air pressure. With the 5W, I was using 5 or 6 psi, but I expect better dampening with the 15W so lower pressure ratings will most likely apply. I will have to wait until the start of the riding season (for me its next month) before I settle on an air pressure setting. For now.......... I inflated them both to 4 psi.
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Since I got my 2nd Gen I've been following this topic pretty closely (something about having to replace a $700 part get's my attention). I haven't seen this discussed, but I was wondering if there is any common denominator with the shocks that have failed. Like is it mainly guys that run the max air pressure, minimum air pressure, mostly two up, greater weight load on the bike, etc, etc, etc. It seems odd to me that some go and others don't and if there's something I can do to help keep me in the "don't" category I'd like to do it. Anyway...just random wondering.
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What vent tube exits just in front of the left air cleaner? Just wondering...thanks...JR -
Maybe someone here can help. Does anyone here know how to remove stripped and seized air screws on the venture carbs? I have had a lot of trouble with my carbs and found a decent set of used ones. I cleaned them up replaced the needle and seats, new slides and diaphragms, as I was getting ready to re install them I saw the air screws had the heads stripped off and they wont move, I want to see if I can fix these any suggestions? Thanks Rob
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It's time to replace my air filters. I was planning on using the K&N filters then it occurred to me that with the Barron after market mufflers it might run too lean. Do I need to worry about that?
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The 09 RSV I recently bought had origionally been listed on ebay. I had not seen that listing and was not aware it had been listed. I found it on the dealerships listing as the origional owner traded it on a new Goldwing. Exrsa1 notified me seen the listing on ebay and actually sent me a link to it. I emailed the guy who owned it since the listing showed some extra "goodies" that went with it. HE STILL HAS THEM !!!!!!! 2 other windshields. A short, med then the one that on it now. The origional tires with 1,000 miles on them. Repair manual, Road king pipes with the mounting brackets. Factory air cleaner covers and replacement air filters. We made arrangments for me to get the spare items, and I am returning to him his garage door opener part that is hooked into the headlight which he had forgotten about. What a great site and great people like exrsa1 really make it what it is.
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Just wanted to let everyone know that Harley Davidson makes a hand pump for airing up the suspension system on the Venture. It allows removal of the air fitting without loosing the selected air pressure within:cool10: the shock. It also has a flexible hose which helps in connecting the pump to the air valve on the shock. Item: Touring Suspension Air pump Part#: 54630-03A Cost: 49.95 air adjust: 0 through 60lbs.
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The object of the game is to move the red block around without getting hit by the blue blocks or touching the black walls. If you can go longer than 18 seconds you are phenomenal. It's been said that the US Air Force uses this for fighter pilots. They are expected to go for at least 2 minutes. Give it a try, but be careful...it is addictive Reflex Test
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I ain't as young as I used to be...but, I still like to make sure I've got the right tire pressure. I ride a first gen. MKI and the way they are setup, it's difficult to use a tire pressure gauge. So, after fighting the bike a few times (the bike won), I decided to come up with a better mouse trap. It actually works pretty good, so I thought I'd share it. I took the manifold off an old discarded portable air tank to start with. It's basically a hexagonal metal pipe with several ports tapped into it. It had 4 - 1/8" NPT ports (only need 3) and a 3/8" which I capped. Add a hose with a self-locking chuck. Swap the original gauge (0-125 PSI) with a more accurate 0-60 PSI. I left the original safety (although it probably wouldn't trigger until after the gauge was gone). I set the regulator on my compressor to 60 PSI. Now I can just attach the chuck to the air valve on the wheel, add or release pressure as desired, and when finished remove the air chuck. I just have to remember to release pressure from the rig when I'm finished so as to not keep pressure on the gauge. http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n163/coy55boy/Misc/airpressurerig.jpg
