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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    I'll just keep my Fingers crossed fer ya both. Have a safe Trip and may be better Life waiting ahead of you. Fair Winds and following Seas.
  2. Squeeze
    That doesn't fit. Hostettler doesn't know his Stuff... :whistling: "Taking the Anti-Dive out" tells me you have hydraulic Anti-Dive. That's a '83-'85 Fork(so callled MK I here). '86 and up has electric Anti-Dive and that has nothing to do with the Brake other than the Solenoids are operated by the Brake Light. If you check the Mounting Bolt Distance of the Calipers, they should be 83mm and 2 Piston Calipers. '86-'93 (we refer them as MKII here) have four Piston Calipers with 100mm Mounting Bolt Distance. Feels like 30 Percent more stopping Power ? Congrats, you now have reached 60 Percent of the R1 Caliper Conversion. Of Course, Parts are expensive on our Side of the Pond, in your Home Country even more than in Germany.
  3. Squeeze
    Give Remo a Call, he was Head Tech at Egli for Years and is now running his own Business. He should be able to help you out. http://www.hot-bike.ws
  4. Squeeze
    I'm sorry to say Holgi, but those R1 Caliper Upgrade never will pass your MFK. It's a great working Upgrade but you may have to go illegal on that.
  5. Squeeze
    Great News Annie, now Summer is right on the Door Steps for ya.
  6. Squeeze
    Depends on the Year of the 1300 Motor. Until 1990 it's the same as you got, above that, it's a single Coil Pickup. But since you're already working on the Stator Exchange, it's only two more Bolts to mount your existing Pickup Coils. or you mount your complete Stator Cover. IF you need to interchange the Pick Up Coil. Carbs are nearly the same, only minor Differences between the Jets, these could be adapted easily.
  7. Squeeze
    I'd contact Dano and do the Starter Clutch Upgrade while I'm at it.
  8. Squeeze
    700 ? Hmmmmm Depends on how much "Quality" you want to achieve. Boring one Size bigger, new Sleeve, new Piston, Rings, Bearing sounds like some Money to begin with. Gaskets, Seals, O-Rings plus Things "you better do that while you're there" like fixing the 2nd Gear/undercut the Trans ... I don't know how much is the Labor in your Area, but here in Germany, you can't get that done with 700 Bucks, or even 700 Euros if you disregard the Currency Exchange Rate. I'd go with the 1300 for 400 Bucks and update/overhaul this Engine for another 300 and have a Lot Peace of Mind, of Course, you need to be halfway sure about the Heritage of the Engine.
  9. Squeeze
    Shift Shaft doesn't mean Linkage. 1Gen have a short Shift Shaft and the Linkage connects underneath the Clutch Slave. The Shift Shaft doesn't stick out of the Middle Drive Gear Cover. But it would, if the Shaft would be longer. This external Linkage uses the Stator Cover as an Pivot Point. Vmax and 2Gen have longer Shift Shafts which stick out through the Middle Drive Gear Cover and connect the Shifter through "outside Lingages".
  10. Squeeze
    Since your '85 should be a 1200 cc Engine, i can't think why Vmax Rings won't fit to Venture Pistons. After all, these are the same. If you need to bore the Cylinder to the next bigger Size, using a new oversized Vmax Piston with Vmax Rings would be my Way to go. Of Course checking the Weights of each complete Piston/Ring/Con Rod Assembly and equal them is the way to better Performance and a smoother running Engine. But if you'd ask me, I'd look after an other good running Motor and fit this, might be the cheapest Way and save a Lot of Hassles and Time too.
  11. Squeeze
    Jack, you could simply change the Shift Shaft between both Engines and have the 1Gen Shift Shaft an a 2Gen Motor where you'll need it. Vmax Shift Shaft also comes out through the middle Drive Gear Cover. The Heads won't interchange and that's a good Thing because you could mount Vmax Heads instead of those whimpy 2Gen Heads and have better Breathing than ever. I'm not sure if you'd like the 2Gen Tranny, i'd keep the 1Gen Trans Ratios for the Sake of proper Performance on such a Beast.
  12. Squeeze
    Mike's absolutely right on the Spot. Jets are definately different. If the Emulsion Tube is Part the "Kit", it won't fit either.
  13. Squeeze
    I'd have simply called ACLU .... They would have Fun dealing with this Guys Attitude ... :crackup::crackup: This is a Thing they would really need to go after. And kept them away from other "important" Things they think they have to solve. :whistling:
  14. Squeeze
    I've never seen Voltages above 20 Volts AC on Yamaha's. Honda is different, they're using higher Voltages(around 60 to 70 Volts) on AC Side. So, no fear while testing AC Output with the Motor running.
  15. Squeeze
    I got this out of Road Racing, they do this over Night, because usually, they change Parts and flush the Fluids after Qualifying. This gives their Riders the best and crispiest Brake on Race Day. Of Course you're right Jack, the Clutch Line doesn't give as much Resistance, thus Line Pressure as the Brakes, but it works anyway. It's a slower Process, but the Function stays the same.
  16. Squeeze
    Here's the working Link from Skydoc's Posting ... [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=301579#post301579]buckeye stator install - VentureRider.Org[/ame] This could be a Number of Things. I suspect the Battery always as first, then check the AC Voltages and clean and inspect the 3-Wire Connector while, because it isn't wrong under all all Circumstances and costs nothing except of ten Minutes. Also, Regulator/Rectifier isn't out of Question on all Bikes of this Age. 13.4 Volts DC isn't overwhelming, but should be good enough to recharge the Battery on a longer Ride (20 to 30 Minutes), even when all Lights are on.
  17. Squeeze
    I can't explain it on more physical Way with Facts. But i try to explain with my poor Language ... Once the Piston is beyond the Relief Hole and sealing that, pressure is built up in the hydraulic Fluid. This also puts the very same Pressure on the Air Bladder and Bubbles trapped inside the Line on various Places. Even when you fill the Reservoir, you will have very minimum Bubbles, some of them a small as you can't see them. This Pressure is a "Force" in the physical Meaning. This Force, togehter with "Air is lighter" and compressed Air has less Volume, which can't stick on the the inside Wall of the Fluid Hose as much as the big Bubble makes the Air come up in the Line. Also, when the Bubbles travel up inside the Hose they form a bigger Bladder and this Bladder has much more Lifting Force than a Lot of small single Bubbles. The Bladder will rise to the highest Point of the Line. If the highest Point of the Bladder is just next to the Relief Hole, the Bladder will go up into the Reservoir and giving Way for the Fluid. If the highest Point of the System is the Banjo Bolt Area on the Clutch Master, only half the trapped Air or less will come out, because unforced Air won't travel anywhere. I'm sorry for the weak Explanation, but that's all i have at the Moment. If you use standard Tools and standard Procedures, it's really important that you arrange the M/C to a Point where the Relief Hole is highest Point in the System, not the Banjo Bolt. I had good Luck while using my new Vaccum Pulling Bleeder Bottle, which is driven by compressed Air, but other than this Tool, whatever i used, MightyVac, Sringes, you name, caused me a Lot of Grief.
  18. Squeeze
    I'm sure you already know that, but mount a Vmax or FJR1300 final Drive. It'll suit you a Lot better.
  19. Squeeze
    Why do you need another Gear ? The 2Gen is already way overgeared in 5th Gear, you sure don't need a 6th Gear. This would only ruin the Engine. The 4th Gear is the Overdrive Gear, the 5th Gear Ratio is "the Overdrive" for the Overdriven 4th Gear.
  20. Squeeze
    What also helps on "hard to bleed" Lines is to pull the Lever with a Wire or a Bungee Cord or something similar to the Handle Bar and let it sit over night. This completely bleeds the Line after several Repeats. But it doesn't help when the Air is trapped on the sharp Corner between M/C and Line like is on 1Gen Clutch M/C. Allways turn the Handle Bar to the right to Level the M/C. I use an old Handlebar and zip Tie it to the Bike and mount the M/C in a better Position.
  21. Squeeze
    The steel Plates as well as the Friction Plates work themselves into the Aluminium where they are in Contact. The Steel Plates trensfer the Power to the Clutch Hub, the Friction Plate engage with the Fingers on the Outside of the Clutch Basket. They work themself into the Aluminium and when these Grooves are deep enough, the will be stuck to a point inside the Grooves they made over Time. Solution to this is to flatten the Surfaces with a File. But i don't expect this to be your main Problem. Also, the Diection to sharp Edges makes a Bit of Difference but you have them in "easier Disengage" Direction. Not wrong for your Case. Initially, iirc, your Problem was poor Shifting and this caused you to look at the rachteting Mechanism behind the Clutch Basket. You stated in your first Posting in this Thread, you didn't find anything wrong there. So, after mounting all new Parts, the Problem with the not disengaging Clutch raised it's ugly Head. This causes my to think that this might be the basic Culprit and mounting all new Clutch Parts elevated the Problem. The Main Problem, at least for now, seems to be in the Clutch Operation, Master, Slave, expanding Rubber Part of the Clutch Line or Air trapped somewhere in the Line, maybe partially clogged Clutch Line.
  22. Squeeze
    If the Engine Service Light comes on and the Truck does otherwise like it should, it's like the Manual suggests... Get to a Service Station and let it check out as soon as you can.... If there is something major wrong, be it a Sensor or a Actuator, the ECU will go into Fail Save Mode and you can't harm anything by driving the Truck this way. My personal Guess would be the EGR-Valve ...
  23. Squeeze
    Annie, I'm sorry to read about your Problems. As i look at the Pics, it seems Alan put the M/C on upside down. The Inlet should be on the top and the Output on the Bottom of the M/C. It's not designed to work the Way it's mounted. I don't what went wrong but this could easily affect the hydraulic Operation of the M/C.
  24. Squeeze
    You did it right the first Time. The splined Thrust Washer goes in between Clutch Basket and Clutch Boss(inner Hub). And it sits behind the Spline when it's in Place. Rocket is right with his Thoughts. The Spline is on the Washer to keep the Hole at minimum Size. Which keeps the Washer more centered when the whole Assemble is turning at 4000 Rpm. What i found is you need to push the mushroom shaped Clutch Rod always back when working on the Clutch. Owen's Advise with the directional Friction Plates is a good one too. They have a sharp and a smooth Edge. I allways mount them the Way that i need more Power to push them out, because i'd rather have a small Problem when disengaging the Clutch than locking it.Which means the sharp Edge allways faces to the outside ot the Motor. YOu also might need to check the Fingers on the Clutch Basket and the rectangular "Splines" where the Steel Plates sit on at the Clutch Hub. The you can feel the Marks significantly there, this will cause Restriction on the Movement of all Plates and therefore limit Travel of the Plates and hindering the Disengagement of the Clutch.
  25. Squeeze
    I AM proud of that Shot !! Made me Think i should take a compllete Pic of my recent Stable, if my Job ever permits having some Time off ...
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