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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. How do you have the aux tank plumbed in? Are you using it to refill the main tank or did you 'T' into the fuel line after the petcock? Kind of surprised you aren't getting a complete emptying of the aux tank. RR
  2. Unlikely to be alcohol to cause a sudden killing of the engine. Sounds like an electrical problem. If it was alcohol/water in the fuel, he would feel it underperforming and then seem to run out of gas (you know the feeling). A sudden (instant) killing of the engine is generally a loss of spark. Did it restart? Does it turn over? Does the headlight remain illuminated? Stay illuminated when trying to start (some bikes have a cutoff switch for the headlight when starting, so it may not stay on even if everything is otherwise OK)? If not, start with the easy stuff. Kill switch, sidestand switch, neutral switch, key switch, fuses. Apparently he was aware enough to check the battery connections - good boy. Best reason not to own a Harley. Can't afford both a bike and a trailer. (just had to throw a Harley poke - they're fine machines usually) RR
  3. Steve, Sounds like a good ride was had. You made the right choice. Well done on the BB. If a BBG was easy, everybody would be doing it. Perhaps next time. RR
  4. Pull the plugs and fog the cylinders with a spray oil. Go to your local auto parts store for the brand name. Replace the plugs (original plugs will be fine). Keep something like a wadded up paper towel in the intake tubes to prevent anything from getting in. Store in a dry area. RR
  5. And.... it still has carbs. While it is the most comfortable long distance touring cruiser available, it certainly is not on the cutting edge of technology. REALLY looking forward to Gen3. Whatever and whenever that happens. RR
  6. Get the OEM seals. The price difference is not that much and some of the aftermarket seals don't work as well. In this case, the OEM are the preferred solution. Cost for replacement can be rather dramatic depending on you providing forks vs. providing a bike. The time required to remove/replace the forks will be several hundred dollars. While the fork seals are being replaced, there are also a couple of internal components that are good to get replaced. Just had my forks redone by the dealer (took them off myself) and they charged about $325 total. This included seals, internal sleeve bearings, and Progressive springs. Bought all parts thru the dealer - although the local dealer gives me some decent parts pricing. Don't know the exact dollar amount for the forks since I also had my front wheel bearings replaced at the same time (total bill was about $400). Also had them remove and replace the lower steering neck bearing. RR
  7. Define 'long rides'. Russell Day Long and Rick Mayer saddles are fantastic for really long rides (Iron Butt - 1000+ miles per day). RDL is better if you are over 250# as they have extra suspension. Both are custom made on your current seat pan. RDL is a little more expensive. Rick Mayer also does a great job. These are the preferred choice in the Long Distance community. If you are looking for 500 miles comfort, others will chime in. RR
  8. This is also a good time to upgrade to Progressive springs. RR
  9. Speeding like mad actually makes it almost impossible to get this done. The additional stress of high speed riding (worries about LEOs, safety, etc.) will not allow you to stay alert for the full time. One stop by the police and the run no longer has a chance. Also, the additional speed kills your gas mileage requiring more stops. In the end, it doesn't help. The methodology to do this is to sit there, twist that. Stops are kept to a minimum and they are run like a NASCAR pitstop. Generally, if you are serious about making a ride like this you practice stops with a stopwatch. Try to get under 5 minutes per stop, off/on time under 10. It helps if you plan your stops where the gas stations are EZ off, EZ on. Eat on the bike, drink on the bike, keep your speed reasonable (under +10 usually), and keep your focus. It is far more a mental challenge than a physical one. Twigg, I will quit hijacking your opportunities for response. Hope you made it home safely and look forward to running long with you sometime. RR
  10. He has done those, both as straight up runs and in rallys. RR
  11. Looks like he got hung up in Tucumcari for several hours. Hope it was just for sleep instead of mechanical issues. Running a bit behind and appears he will fall short of his goal, but is still in line for an epic ride. A smart ride is better than a 'successful' ride any day. Iron Butt Association - Dedicated to the Sport of SAFE Long-Distance Riding. Looking forward to the ride report Twigg. RR
  12. Valentine1. It is the gold standard. RR
  13. I'm sorry for your loss, even though it was long ago. I cherish the opportunities I have with my folks and do not take it for granted. Met with a client yesterday and his mother is likely in her last days. I could see the pain in the eyes of a strong man. It will happen to me someday (at least I hope. I couldn't stand to cause her the pain of me being the first to go). Not a day I am looking forward to. Your reminder is strong reinforcement. Thank you. Rest peacefully - tomorrow - knowing you two were together tonight. RR
  14. Hey Twigg, You goin' here? Have a great ride. Good luck with the BBG. Wish I could join you. RR
  15. There is. Go buy beer and cigars for when Goose comes over. Actually, go ahead and drain the tank. Easy to do. Turn the petcock to off, slide the clamp off the fuel line attached to the petcock. Put a length of 3/8" (IIRC) fuel line and run it to a gas can. Turn the petcock to reserve and let it completely drain out. Put a whole can of Seafoam and a couple of gallons of fresh non-alcohol (if you can find it) gas in. Next, get a length of 1/4" gas line. If you look at the bottom of each carb bowl, there is a nipple. Put the 1/4" line on one and loosen the screw at the bottom side of the bowl that is inline with the nipple. You will see it. This will drain the bowl. Retighten the drain screw after draining (Not too tight, just snug will do it). Do this for each carb bowl (there are 4). Next, turn on the key and listen for the fuel pump. It should run for 5 to 10 seconds, maybe a little longer since it has to full all 4 bowls. The pump should slow down and then stop when everything is full. Let it sit overnight. Now, try to start it. If it goes, it will smell a little funny. Seafoam will do that. Not a bad smell, just different than regular exhaust. Once it is running, you will want to replace the fuel filter (may want to do that to begin with). It is a royal PITA to get to. Under the seat, behind the clutch side panel, behind the battery box. I think Yamaha uses Pakistani kids that have hands too small to make oriental rugs to get in there. If that doesn't do it, wait for the great Goose to perform his magic. RR
  16. At 50 below, hell freezes over. Vikings win the Super bowl. Fixed the last line. RR
  17. +1 on double checking the fork brace. Any misalignment in a fork brace will cause problems. As a test, take it off and see how it does. While it won't be as stable in turns without the brace, it should handle just fine on the straights. At least this will tell you where to look. RR
  18. You will also note in M61A1MECH's link, it shows the correct torque spec. 46 ftlb (64 Nm). And Blue Loctite. RR
  19. I wouldn't worry about the engine/transmission at 107k. Items that may need updated - front springs, fork seals, brake lines, valve shims, test for neck bearings. And of course, the standard maintenance items. If they are going to put a tire on, make sure it is a Dunlop E3, Avon Cobra, Michelin Commander (II?). Don't settle for a D404 (will last My impression is this price is a little high. Since they have done nothing to it other than give it a bath, it should be priced as a private party seller vs a dealer. Good luck. RR
  20. Of course you are welcome here. VR includes a complete section on the TD. Most of the bike is the same as the Venture. Welcome. RR
  21. How about the stud that sits on top of the seat. I'm here in WI. RR
  22. To change the clutch spring is about a 15 minute job - the first time. Unless you have been slipping a lot and burning up the discs, likely a spring is all that is needed. Put it on the side stand, take off the cover, remove the pressure plate, change out spring, replace pressure plate USING AN INCH-LB TORQUE WRENCH. Button up and ride. RR
  23. Curt Gran has put together an Iron Butt SaddleSore 1000 ride page for the MLR. Since this was started as a gathering of long distance riders, it just seems right. http://moonshine-run.com/Moonshine/mlrss1k.asp RR
  24. Mmmmmmmmmm, Bacon!! RR
  25. +1 on the external switch. Only way this light will stay alive. RR
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