Jump to content

V7Goose

Supporting Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,588

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Not fishing for an apology - but accepted. I was simply trying to explain how your post was received and why I was not going to re-type everything I might know about your question. I wish you well. Ride safe, Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Well, one question is pretty much the same as another - so you already got the 'question' part right! Just pick the most appropriate forum and type away! If you are not sure where t fits best, go ahead and put it in the Watering Hole and we'll move it if needed. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    This is not correct, at least not for an RSV or RSTD (but I suppose it could be right for an older RS, I don't know those bikes as well). Each carb overflow is connected to a T - the two left carbs together and the two right ones together, and the hose from the T is routed to a little square clamp right in front of the air cleaner on the appropriate side. If a float is stuck, this is where the gas will show up (running down the inside of the lower fairing). In addition to the carb bowl overflow vents I just described, the air intake plenum boxes ABOVE the carbes have a vent hose that runs down to the rear of the engine and can be seen hanging near the swingarm just to the left side of the front of the rear tire (about where the tip of the kick stand is when folded up). The crank case breather vents into the plenum boxes, and I think the tube that vents the plenums is for excess engine oil that collects from the crankcase vapors. This is why the end of an RSV kickstand gets all coated with crud after you do a lot of long hour high-speed riding! And it is the same reason why the outside of the left carbs gets gennerally oily and nasty after about 30,000 miles - just the left side since that is the down-side of the air plenums while bike is on side stand. The four hoses that you see behind the engine include these two plenum box vents, the coolant overflow, and the tank vent. The ONLY time you should ever see any gas coming out of the tank vent hose is if you fill the tank to the very top and them park it in the sun. And back to the original question - follow my post above to reset the float levels and inspect the float valves and all will be solved. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I haven't actually looked at the coolant flow diagram on these engines, so I am only making some reasonable assumptions (I hope) in developing this hypothesis: Any cooling system will develop internal pressure as the temperature of the coolant rises. This is not a "boil over," just normal operation. That increased pressure will be there no matter what the thermostat does. I only suggested the thermostat as a slight possibility because it seems the water pump would be creating some back pressure on the system behind the thermostat - that wouldn't be much, but I was trying to come up with something that might explain multiple joint's leaking at the same time. Once the thermostat opens, the pressure would equalize throughout the system. The radiator cap DOES control how high the pressure will get as the coolant heats up. When it reaches the rated level, the cap allows the fluid to escape into the overflow tank until the pressure comes down a little. Theoretically, that sounds like it could be the cause of your multiple leaks, but I really doubt it. Still, it is worth a try if you cannot find another reason. Any decent shop should have the necessary tool to check the cap against the rated release pressure. If your fan is not coming on before the leaks start, you are not building up a lot of pressure in the cooling system. Normal coolant temps are 210 degrees on the RSV, and it takes a good 10 miles or more to get it up that high on my 05. Running for "a few minutes" would never allow the coolant to reach full operating temperature (assuming your "few minutes" is the same as mine), let alone overheat the engine to the point of significant excess pressure under a bad radiator cap, so I still just suspect typical aging on the rubber hoses that need the clamps tightened. Your temps may not be very low right now, but if you had a really cold snap anytime this winter, maybe that was enough to cause the old joints between the rubber hoses and metal nipples to loosen and set up the leaks for the next time the bike was warmed up? Hope any of that helps, Goose
  5. V7Goose
    If it is quite cold and your bike is old (you don't say what bike or age), then this might simply be old hard rubber and shrinking metal parts form the temps. If that is the case, there is probably nothing to worry about. It does seem a bit strange for multiple places to start leaking at the same time, but I'd just tighten up the clamps a bit and see how it goes (especially when it is a little warmer). If the bike was up to temp before it started to leak (which would build up some pressure), then maybe the thermostat is not opening soon enough? Goose BTW - the warmer the bike parts are before you tighten the clamps, the better. That would make the rubber a little more pliable and make it easier to stop the leaks. If the leaks are quite slow, I'd ride for at least 10 miles before I started to tighten things.
  6. V7Goose
    I think it was 2005, but I am not positive. Should be simple matter to check the part numbers in the on-line parts manuals on Yamahaha web site and see when it changes. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    As others have already noted, the most likely cause of your problem is fuel - three distinct possibilities: Stuck rollover valve in the tank vent line. Unlikely, but I have heard of it happening on the RSV. Pinched vent hose - not too hard to do if the tank has been removed. Intermittent fuel pump (also clogged fuel filter). If the problem is actually fuel related instead of ignition, you should have noticed some stumbling and loss of power shortly before it died. This is identical to what you will feel if you just turn off the gas while you are riding; you will get several miles on the fuel in the float bowls before one or two cylinders begin to starve. If the problem is in the ignition circuit (bad ignition module, ignition switch or wiring), the engine would have died instantly instead of starving first. This is exactly what you will feel if you just hit the kill switch while riding. Those two tests should let you easily focus on either the fuel or ignition, then you can run some additional tests to zero in on the exact problem. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    I am sorry to hear that you got ripped off by a shyster shop who stole your money to "fix" a bike still under warranty. It hurts even worse now that you are faced with the evidence that they probably did nothing. Your repair process should be fairly straight forward. First, pull the carbs - see the tech library for extensive instructions on how to do this. After you have them out, drain each carb into a glass jar to check for obvious contaminates in the fuel. If you find any, you need to change your fuel filter. Now flip the carbs over on your bench and pull the float bowls. Once again check inside for contaminates. On an 05 you will probably see some very fine sediment that will wipe out, but that wouldn't have been causing any problem. On the three Royal Stars I have personally checked, all floats were set extremely high from the factory. I have also posted in detail about that. So now all you need to do is pull each float needle and inspect for damage to needle or seat, and make sure there is no foreign substance stuck in the orifice. Finally, follow the instruction in my post on setting the float levels correctly and put it all back together. Guaranteed Fix! But make sure you have run sufficient fuel cleaner, like Sea Foam, through the bike to ensure no old varnish might be otherwise affecting how the carbs are working. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Please take this post in the spirit in which it is intended. I have no desire to insult you or start a flame war, even though I found your attitude a bit insulting to me. I have posted in exhaustive detail about my extensive testing of various tires and suspension changes to my RSV. Many members here know that I generally spare no effort to help anyone who I can - either through posting or personal work on their bikes. But I, too, have much better things to do with my time than waste it re-posting the same information just because someone refuses to read what I have already posted. The part I found somewhat insulting is your apparent belief that your time is more valuable than mine and others. You may not have meant that, but I can't think of any other way to interpret your words. So my friend, I hope you get the information you desire, but I can't help you more here. If I meet you somewhere, possibly at Don's maintenance day, I'll be happy to talk about it all you want. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    I have NO idea what you are talking about.
  11. V7Goose
    Yes, you do have to split the fairing. The chrome ring on the headlight is held on by tabs bent over the back. When you put the visor on,make sure you get the ring fully seated and the tabs bent back well. I mention this because the visor takes up some room and makes it a little hard to put the ring fully into place. One side of mine slipped off a bit a couple of days later, and I had to split the fairing again to get it right. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Synthetic oil has nothing to do with clutch slipping. JASO-MA is a specific oil specification that ensures the oil will not cause slippage from any wet clutch in good condition. Your owner's manual specifically calls for JASO-MA oil, but few of us pay attention to that. Any oil labeled to meet JASO-MA will be fine for the clutch, even if it might be terrible for everything else! But many oils may be able to pass JASO-MA standards without having been formally tested and certified and labeled that way. That seems to be the case with Shell Rotella oils (both synthetic and regular). Unless an oil is bing specifically marketed as a motorcycle oil (with the usual jacked-up prices), it just doesn't make financial sense for a company to get the certification. The choice of oil is often a very emotional and personal thing - sometimes oil discussions can be as nasty as politics! I don't have any desire to try and convince anyone to change oils; what you put in your bike is your business. But for those who haven't already made up their mind, a litle research may show that either Rotella oil (syn or dino) could be the best of both worlds. IMHO, it is a great oil at a great price, available in bulk at lots of places, and Shell states it even meets JASO-MA specs. I personally believe in synthetic oils, but I use Rotella dino in my RSV simply because I do not want to extend the change intervals while it is still under warranty. If I keep it after the warranty is over, I'll switch. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    See my post at the end of this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10499&highlight=shell&page=2 Rotella may not be labeled as JASO-MA, but it meets the spec according to Shell. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    All Royal Star owners manuals from 2000 - 2009 are available for free review and download on their web site. Although the bike has not changed, the manual has changed several times. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    I am not an attorney, but I do know a few things. Check out the Magnuson-Moss Warranty act. This law has considerable teeth in it to prevent a manufacturer from denying a valid warranty claim. It includes provisions for the manufacturer to have to pay all legal costs of the customer if they lose. In your case it sounds like they are trying to disclaim a warranty claim on your engine because of a change in an unrelated part of the bike. IMHO, unless they can substantiate how an increased load could have caused that specific type of failure, they don't have a leg to stand on. The most important thing here is probably that the burden of proof is on them, not you. Considering how much your repairs are probably going to cost, I suspect it will be worth your while to consult a lawyer. I would hate to see them get away with this. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Or you can just add a set of Pop Vents to your windshield for about $20 and 20 minutes of work. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    I have seen a few members use those lights - wish I had known about them way back in '04. I certainly would prefer to have the H3 lights instead of the poor sealed beam lights. Just make sure you stick with 30W or 35W bulbs; the more common 55W bulbs will prevent your battery from reaching full charge unless you are spending many hours at high RPM on the highway. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Well, I know it doesn't help you now, but if you are going to be taking those bags off a lot, get the chrome side rails - they will prevent the bag from ever falling off by itself, and they actually provide quite a bit of protection if the bike goes down or hits something. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Them damn Ausies get all the cool names - Who'd a guessed you could get a motorcycle "convertible?" Goose
  20. V7Goose

    Motorcycle oil

    V7Goose replied to Reed's topic in Watering Hole

    :stickpoke:Hey Bill, you trailer your bike, so I guess any oil will work the same for ya - some of us actually RIDE them! Goose (But knowing how uncomfortable the Honda Refrigerators are, I guess I can understand the trailer.)
  21. V7Goose
    I start my bike on the kickstand all the time. The RSV runs fine with the kickstand down as long as it is in neutral, so unless you always try to start your bike in gear you still have another problem. Goose
  22. V7Goose

    Motorcycle oil

    V7Goose replied to Reed's topic in Watering Hole

    Old Mobil1 car oil with a red cap was great for bikes, but they reformulated it some years back. Now I think all the Mobil1 with gray caps is "energy conserving" - an absolute no-no for a wet clutch. I personally prefer the Shell Rotella oil and the Pure One filter. Check out this thread for more info - particularly my post at the end for JASO-MA specs: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10499&highlight=shell&page=2 Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Well, there are several threads on this listed at the bottom of this page. Or you could go here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20815&highlight=recap Goose
  24. V7Goose
    I can't tell you much, since I don't use it myself, but be careful to check the specs on whatever you are considering. I love the Nolan N102 helmets with the headset part integrated in, but I use the wired headset. Nolan DOES sell a blue tooth option for that helmet, but I know the original version was only mono sound. I have no idea if they have updated that or not. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    You quite likely need to clean a bunch of stuff off the computer - lots of good suggestions above on how to start. There is NO one best option for either cleaning tools, anti virus, or firewall. Many good in each category (including multiple free options), and EACH ONE will catch something the others don't. Besides finding and removing malware, Windoze (ALL versions) gets danged nasty with age. LOTS of crud gets left in the registry over time, from a lot of different things, so running a good registry cleaner will always help. Multiple options for that too. Another major problem over time is hard drive fragmentation. If you haven't run a defrag, you need one BAD. Windoze has a defrag utility built-in, so no need to spend anything. Just right click on the drive in My Computer, select properties and the Tools tab. But the much better (and probably quicker) solution has already been suggested - after a couple of years you really need to wipe the drive and start with a fresh install. Most computers come with a disk to do this automatically for you (or it is a hidden partition on your hard drive). The down side of this approach is all the pain to find and reinstall any software and utilities you might have added over the years, followed by all the personal tweaking to make it look and fee just like what you have gotten used to using. And once you have reinstalled the original version of the OS, you will probably spend DAYS reapplying all the patches and updates from Micro$oft! BUT.... Frankly, with a computer that old, you really should just replace it. Of course you might not be able to spend a couple of hundred bucks, but if you can, even the cheapest machine on sale at any of the major stores or internet discounters is going to be BLAZING fast compared to whatever you are using now. And there are some pretty nice ones for just $300 or $400 bucks - even quite a few reasonable ones in that price range that come bundled with new flat screen monitors and printers (if you watch the sales)! I certainly wouldn't waste time or money upgrading any machine more than 4 years old. Those computers are already way past prime, require "obsolete" parts that are going up in price, and will probably have other things go wrong within a year or two. For example, ALL new computers use SATA drive technology, but yours can only use IDE drives. IDE drives are getting relatively hard to find and are never on sale. By the time you dump over $100 on a big new drive and go to all the trouble of reinstalling everything, you could have had a brand new computer with 4 times the memory and gobs more processing power for not a whole lot more.
×
×
  • Create New...