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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Oh no, I ain't gonna let this one ride - I ain't gotta be happy, no matter what you think, you nasty old antique rider. I ain't gotta, I tell you! Pin Head! Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Hey hey hey, the admins here ride modern Ventures, not that old decrepit antique junk, so you better watch yourself! Keep up that misguided badmouthing of the better bike and you are just BEGGING to get banned!!! Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Yes, unfortunately we had someone who decided he just had to preach and stuff his opinions in everyone else's face. He continued even after a friendly warning, so we needed to trash the thread before it got ugly. Sorry. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    It seems to me that even though we have 4 coils, there is a waste spark on every revolution. I say this because I expected the same problem you describe when I first tested a tach, but one designed for a twin engine works fine when connected to one of our coils. Because of this, I suspect that if you make the shown adapter and just bridge two coils instead of all four it may work fine. That assumes, of course, that your tach has a setting for a 4-cyl engine. Goose BTW - where did you find the info on the adapter? Picture looks like it is on paper instead of electronic file (unless you just printed it out). Can you post a more detailed scan? Never mind, I found the pdf here: http://www.gadgetjq.com/Tach_Adapter.pdf
  5. V7Goose
    I'm not sure I have enough information to fully explain this one. It looks like FutureVentures included several images in his post using IMG code, and if those images were too large, they certainly would have caused the problem you experienced. Unfortunately I cannot duplicate that since is seems he used links to pictures on his C: drive, so they are not available for later viewing. Not sure why you would have been able to see them at all (if you even could). Maybe it has something to do with him still being connected, so the temp images were in a buffer some where? Maybe it is even possible that the IMG code opened up a security hole directly to his C: drive while he was connected? I haven't heard of that happening before, but I sure don't know everything. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    IE does split it fine if I edit that post and insert a space between the graphics. It just does not seem to be willing to take a chance and split it on it's own if there is no space there. So far, no luck in finding a display option to change that behavior.
  7. V7Goose
    OK, no resolution for IE7 yet, but I can give y'all a little more information. The full width of the first page in that thread is being driven by saddlebum's posting (#13), and specifically by his stringing all those graphics together without any spaces between them. Seems that IE, at least with the settings I currently have, cannot split the post without a space between the items, but the other browsers can. I'll keep working on it to see if I can find a change to IE or our forum software that will solve this. Goose It would be good to know if anyone is using IE7 with a resolution of 1024x768 and sees the full width of that thread without scrolling. That might at least help me identify any display options in IE7 that would be an easy fix.
  8. V7Goose
    Well, that one works fine for me on 1024x768. [edit] NOT! I spoke too soon. It works for me in Opera and Firefox, but not in IE7 (which you are using). It was very helpful for you to post the screen shot of what it looks like - gimme a few minutes to do some comparisons and testing, and I ought to be able to figure it out for you. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Depending on how old the laptop is, you can probably use a higher resolution than 1024x768. Try going to the next level up and see if you like it OK. If you have specific threads that give you the problem, post the link here so I can compare them on this little ultralight running 1024x768. You do have the browser running in full screen mode, right? Note that one single post with a picture or other graphic that is too big will screw up the entire thread, even if it is 20 pages long. ALL posts are formatted to fit the sreen needed to display the widest post in the thread. Posting pictures is a little tricky 'cause there are a number of ways to do it. The normal way, just using the Manage Attachments feature, only puts a thumbnail in the mail post, so that never causes a problem. Like this: [ATTACH]24081[/ATTACH] But a different way can use a link to another web site, which causes the full picture to display: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b289/V7Goose/Gaugesfront3.jpg http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b289/V7Goose/Fairingfront.jpg That photo is posted using IMG code from Photobucket. You can see that this particular photo is not too big to fit in one page, but I could have just as easily done one that was too large. Even posting two photos side-by-side does not cause a problem as long as each one will fit on one screen, as the browser will split the post between the photos and put them one above the other instead of side-by-side if needed to fit. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    All those nines are a pain - I suggest you just round the shipping up to an even $10M. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Before you start any work on that thing, I suggest you actually verify you have vacuum leaks. Those manifolds are rubber over metal, and many have reported lots of surface cracks with no leaks. You have a much bigger likelihood of leaks from the rubber caps on the vacuum ports - they need to be replaced at least every two years. Very simple way to verify any vacuum leak - just spray carb cleaner or WD-40 on the manifolds while the bike is idling. ANY change in engine sound or RPM shows a leak. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    The problem to which you refer is caused when someone decides to post a picture that is too big to fit on one page at the screen resolution you have selected. Text is dynamically split where necessary to allow the post to wrap and fit within the frame, but no way to split a picture. The only real option you have is to switch your display to a higher resolution. My smallest laptop runs at 1024x768, and this seems to handle the majority of posts quite well. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Just posting an opinion from the other side. KiteSquid is certainly entitled to his thoughts on Clarion, but I don't share them. I haven't paid much attention to car audio in quite a few years, but I know for a fact that Clarion made some great top-end stuff in years past. Now, history is full of companies that once made good stuff and now don't, but I did a quick internet search for Clarion quality reviews; the vast majority of what I found sure seems to say they are still making excellent stuff. I'm not passing judgment on the quality of the unit in the RSV, just that IMHO Clarion in general makes some really great stuff. I do think that the audio system in the RSV has a terrible user interface, but I haven't given much thought to the sound. Frankly, I don't really care if a motorcycle sound system is high end or not. The listening environment is just so poor anyway, what with road noise and all, that I believe even just a fair system is good enough. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    I have not done any work on the RSV speakers since I use headsets in my Nolan helmet 100% of the time. But I have done a lot of high-end stereo work in the past, so I thought I would share a few thoughts. In general, speaker size or shape plays no significant role. Putting slightly larger or oval speakers in an existing bike or car installation will have absolutely zero effect on sound quality or volume from speaker size. Speaker design, quality, compliance, and matching with the amplifier, all DO play a huge role in both sound quality and volume. So changing speakers certainly can and will effect the sound, either good or bad, but that comes from other factors, not from the size. Bass frequencies do often contribute to distortion in cheap speakers or over-driven speakers. But, I don't understand why anyone would use something to block the low frequencies in a system that has a bass control. Sound distortion can come from both the amp and the speaker. Turning down the bass is much more likely to improve the sound quality than letting the amp try to push those frequencies and then trying to block them from reaching the speakers. This is especially true for low quality amplifiers where turning up the volume often drives the amp into clipping and the resulting distortion. Using better quality speakers may handle bass frequencies better without distorting, but if they are not properly matched to the amp (generally this is mostly about power handling capability or efficiency), then when you turn up the volume more to try to get more sound you generate the distortion in the amp. Speaker enclosures can have a greater impact on the sound quality than just about any other factor, but just putting any speaker in any enclosure is not going to automatically improve the sound. It will change it, but the change could be either good or bad. Some speakers are specifically designed for use in an enclosure, others are not. Some enclosures are completely sealed, some are not, and some utilize a tuned-port. The point here is that adding or changing the enclosure with any speaker is mostly a trial and error process to find something you like. Using a spectrum analyzer is the best way to evaluate the actual effects to the sound output from any changes. So, before you begin making changes to the speakers, you should know the RMS power rating of the amp and make sure you only try speakers that are designed to operate well with that power. Ones that are designed to handle a lot more power will likely cause sound quality problems from the amplifier, and ones that are designed to work well with much lower power are easily pushed to distortion when you turn the volume up. Don't know if any of that is helpful to anyone, but thought I'd offer it anyway. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    In my experience, the "need" for syncing the RSV carbs is relative to your own perception. I know the RSV will run quite well for many many thousands of miles with the carbs fairly far OUT of sync. And the average rider who has never had their carbs set up spot-on will never even know there is something better. But I have also found that even having one carb just 1" Hg different than the others (standard variation is only .4") will produce some noticeable high-speed vibration under acceleration. It has also been my experience that few shops ever put enough effort into the carb sync to get them withing the .4" spec. They usually get them pretty close, but getting them really correct just tends to take a bit more time than their rushed mechanics are willing to spend. Having your own gauges just gives you a lot of piece of mind knowing that all is set up perfectly without having to spend a cent to check it (after the initial purchase, of course). Personally, I suggest anyone who does their own maintenance should have a manometer set, and I am very partial to the mechanical vacuum gauges over either mercury sticks or the Carb-tune. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    There are people here who have said they are perfectly happy with a home made two-unit manometer. I'm glad they are, but I personally advise heavily against it. Technically, you SHOULD be able to identify the reference carb and sync each other carb to that with just a twin unit, but in reality, it just ain't so. I have done a LOT of Royal Stars, and other 4-cyl engines, and the interaction between carbs from changing any setting is just way too much. Even when using a 4-gauge set, I am going back and forth numerous times before all of them are equal. If I was having to disconnect/reconnect a gauge to check all four carbs after touching each screw, I doubt the job wold EVER be done correctly. To anyone who thinks they can do it and like it, my hat is off to you, but I have to advise against it for anyone else. ESPECIALLY for someone who has never tried it before! Get any 4-tube or 4-gauge manometer and do it right. You can buy both mercury and mechanical gauges from JC Whitney (or at least you could last time I checked). Goose
  17. V7Goose
    That is certainly an innovative idea. Don't know if I'll ever try it since I have my tire changer, but I'm quite sure it would work, even if it took a little effort. Cinching the beads together in so many places around the tire would have the effect of slightly enlarging the inside diameter. In addition, having both beads secured together just makes it easier to ensure they are pulled up into the deep well in the center of the rim while trying to push the tire over the opposite side. Positioning the tire this way is important for easy mounting even when using irons or a machine. Thanx for posting it - you never know when a new idea might come in handy! Goose
  18. V7Goose
    As far as I am concerned, that particular bolt, along with the little ones to hold on the chrome fender trim, are MANDATORY for Lock-Tite. If you don't do it, you're gonna loose it. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Sorry, just 'cause he can't understand it doesn't make him right! I'm 6'5" with size 13 boots. When I sit in a chair my feet sit flat on the floor quite comfortably, and I want them in the same position on the bike. When I do 1,400 mile days on the RSV my feet and legs are never uncomfortable at the end. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Not sure what to tell you, but changing the filter really wasn't too hard for me. I worked from the left side and don't think I removed anything other than the covers (and I have very large hands). But it is imperative to pull the rubber sleeve off the tab as mentioned above. I also used an aftermarket filter from the auto parts store. The biggest problem was finding a suitable filter about the same diameter with the correct size for the fuel hose. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Sorry, Can't help with that. Personally I would NEVER EVER, NOT EVER own a touring bike without both floorboards AND heel/toe shifter. But that is just my preference. You get to do what you want to your own bike! Goose
  22. V7Goose

    Antenna

    V7Goose replied to Starman09's topic in Watering Hole

    Just be careful! If you try to rotate the top of the lower mount, you can shear the black plastic pin that holds it together. If I remember correctly, pull the rubber boot off the bottom and loosen that nut to rotate the entire antenna. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Just wanted to assure you that these bikes are NOT particularly temperamental with gas. There are a lot of the 2nd gens over 5 years old with low mileage, and relatively few people complain of carb problems. I do ride mine a lot, but after I crashed the 05 last summer it sat for over 5 months with NO gas additives or any prep after the crash. After I finally got around to fixing it, it fired right up and has run perfectly for another 20,000 miles. Not sure what your problem has been, but don't assume it is typical of the RSV. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    I don't remember the exact details, but I know I did check the tools that came with my 05 to verify I could actually take a plug out with them on the road (I carry a cylinder powered air compressor, so that's important). I seem to recall that you have to use a combination of tools to do it - maybe both of the sockets together and an open-end wrench to turn it? You can play around with the left rear plug without taking anything off, so just experiment. You can do it with the stock tools. But once you are sure you know how to take the plug out, you will have to pull the tank and top engine mounts to get the front plugs. Not hard, just a PITA. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Here is a thread where I showed a simple way to use that white DC power plug by the battery: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20166&highlight=power Goose
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