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Everything posted by V7Goose
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Time for new tires. I need some advice.
V7Goose replied to Midnight's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I don't fault you for your personal opinion - I am sure that is what your experience has been. But my view is a little different. I have ridden on the Dunlop 404s, and I find them just an average tire, about typical for an OEM selection and far superior to the other OEM option (the terrible Bridgestones). But in my opinion, the Avon Venoms are vastly superior on the RSV in both handling and wear. Goose -
Only a 5.3 gallon tank just isn't gonna cut it for me - hopefully they will learn from the early customers and increase that soon. Without a price yet it is hard to tell, but I am also concerned about the indications that there will be lots of optional stuff you gotta buy to actually make it what you want. Guess we'll just have to wait and see... Goose
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OK, I'm impressed enough to take a closer look - I may fall for one of those when the warranty runs out on my 05. Thanx for posting the info. I think the single crank pin is a stupid design, and the weenie 12 month warranty is a waste, but it is still worth a closer look! Goose
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Actually, basic flashers work by the heat generated from the electrical current running through a bi-metallic strip inside the flasher. The two metals heat at different rates, causing the strip to bend, opening and closing the contacts like a relay. The only place "resistance" enters the picture is the resistance the bulbs themselves have in the current flow to ground - the more resistance, the less current flow, the slower flash rate. But you can't really control the resistance of the bulbs you use anyway, so that is just academic. When people replace incandescent bulbs with LED, they have a problem with normal flashers because the LEDs have very LOW current, so it does not heat up the strip enough to break the circuit. When you hear about the need for load balancing resistors to make the flashers work, those are just big resistors wired in parallel with each LED that causes current to be wasted flowing to ground so that the flasher will work (not the same thing as the current "limiting" resistors in series with an LED to keep it from burning up). I don't know what types of bulbs or LEDs you have, but your solution is probably to just buy an electronic flasher unit made for LED circuits - they will flash properly no matter what type of load they see. Available from most auto parts stored or just abut any web site that sells LED bulbs. Try www.superbrightleds.com. Goose BTW - if you poke around their site you will find links to all sorts of great detailed info on LEDs and how to use them. But this one page at the entrance to their car bulb replacement section has good basic info: http://www.superbrightleds.com/carbulb-notes.htm
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ah dunt spak so gud but i ain't gonna tern up m knows at nobody heer just cuz they dose not tipe sgud as i dos.
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Stock rear tires on the RSV are rated at 74H. Theoretically, this is all that is needed as long as you do not overload the bike (exceed the GVW rating). However, it never hurts to have a tire rated at a higher load rating - the only negative that might come from it is a slightly harsher ride. If you overload the bike, you can't do anything to increase frame or bearing strength, but a higher rated tire does reduce the risk there. The Avon Venom AM42 in 150/90-15 can be purchased in either 80H or 74V. As I have stated before, you should be careful and order the H rated tire for the RSV. Goose
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You weren't hearing good things about those POS tires HERE - this problem has been going on for several years and is well documented in many threads on this site. In my opinion, YES, this IS something you need to be concerned about. Those tires are just absolutely dangerous. No, not every one fails, not even the majority of them, but tread separation is unbelievably bad when it DOES happen on any tire, and the Metzeler crud is the only bike tire it is happening to in large numbers. And to make things worse, when it does happen to you, the manufacturer will just laugh at you and tell you how stupid you are. Sorry to hear you got stuck with them. If you feel you have to keep them longer, please inspect the rear tire often and close. If you think you detect any strange vibration or feel while riding, stop IMMEDIATELY and inspect them. Goose
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I hope not! Been there, done that, don't wanna do it no more!
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Co-Pilot and I are heading for North Georgia on Sunday to spend a week with a bunch of Refrigerator riders. Anybody wanna ride along? The Tupperware crowd is a little disorganized, but they be good people too. (at least most of them! ) Goose
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Well, I don't speak "KPa" 'cause I'm just a goofy 'merican, but KPa sounds more like a PRESSURE measurement than a vacuum measurement to me. I'm not looking at the manual right now, but I DID just go out and take a look at my vacuum gauges, just for you. I can tell you from experience syncing a lot of RSVs that they generally run around 12" Hg at 1,000 RPM. Anything outside of 10-13" at idle would be cause for alarm to me. I have heard stories about the timing chain being off a notch, but never have seen one myself that had a problem. When reading Yamahaha's manual, ALWAYS try to double check any numbers, either by going to another source, finding it in a different place in the same manual, or using a calculator to convert from a different measurement (such as mm HG to inches HG); I have found many of their numbers are wrong, either missing or misplaced decimals or just stupid typos. Goose
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No, I do not back off. I will not follow any truck longer than forced to by the traffic. In any weather. It is especially bad with wet roads due to the spray - nasty vis and nasty bike! I pass, maybe a little faster than normal, but I do not "haul ass" either. With reduced visibility, that is a bigger invitation to an accident than following!!!!! If I can find an acceptable speed that keeps me in a good spot ahead of the nearest truck, I'll settle in there, if not, I'll keep at a higher speed to continue to pass them. I ride in all kinds of weather; I don't like the 18 wheelers, but I can deal with them. If I thought they were some sort of a horrible challenge, I think I would recognize I didn't have the skills to be on the roads at all. I will also note that it is critical to have the correct height of windshield. If I was looking through a shield, I could NOT ride in heavy rain or road spray. Not at all. Period. But with the shield at the correct height to just look over it and let the air blast hit above the face shield, I have reasonable visibility in all situations. Certainly not perfect in road spray, but acceptable. Ride safe, Goose
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Hey Herb, you're not too far away - order what you like and ride on over here and we'll change it! If you have over 10,000 miles on the stock tire, I'd bet it is a Dunlop; few people get more than 8,000 out of the terrible Brickstone rear. How thin you wear it is up to you, but technically you should change it when the wear bar first gets flush with the surrounding tread in the most worn part of the tire. My personal preference is for the Avon Venom tires on this bike (and I've tried a few others). If you order one of them, make sure you get the H speed rating, not the V, as it will last longer. Tire wear is often different for every person, based on riding style, smoothness of the clutch action, etc., but the majority of riders on Avon Venoms seem to be getting around 14,000 - 15,000 on the rear, including me. For reference, I only got 8,000 from the stock Brickstone and 10,000 from a Pirelli MT66. Goose
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As has already been stated, they do work, but the RSV does not have a lot of extra electrical capacity. My suggestion is simple - if using them, either turn off your driving lights or turn off your carb heaters. Either one will provide plenty of electrical power for heated clothing without overloading your bike. If you do run it all together and over-tax your charging system, you won't really know unless you monitor both the system voltage and current flow. No fuses will blow, and the bike will run like normal. But it will be slow death for your battery, preventing it from ever receiving a full charge, thus needing replacement sooner. Goose
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This chart would be nice, but there are flaws in it! I have not taken the time to calculate out all the values to correct it, but you can see it is wrong in that it shows several places where the same size wire can support higher amps for LONGER lengths - this is impossible. For example, if a 12AWG wire can only safely handle 15 amps for 8 feet, there is NO WAY it can handle 20 amps for 10 feet! Use caution, and calculate the correct wire size for your circuit using a known good source. And make sure you include the ENTIRE length of wire, including the length to ground. Goose
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General Wiring Question - Directly From Batt
V7Goose replied to The Crimson Knight's topic in General Tech Talk
You do not ask about the two most important things! You must know in advance how much load you intend to put on this circuit, then select the correct size wire and fuse to protect it. The fuse is there to protect the WIRES, not the load (or whatever you are plugging in). There is nothing wrong with having wires too BIG, but they must not be too small. This is why you NEVER NEVER put a larger fuse into an existing circuit just to keep it from blowing - your wires will burn up instead. General guideline - for a 20A circuit, you will need at least 14AWG wire, and 12AWG would be better (depending on the length of wire). For a 15A circuit, don't go smaller than 16AWG. For a much more detailed discussion look at post #19 in this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19698&highlight=wire+size&page=2 Goose -
This storm had some long legs, just like Fay did. But Ike moved a lot faster and further! Sure glad all y'all made it through without real damage. Goose
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Uhhhh, yeah, says the man who TRAILERED a bike to a rally!!!!
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I'm sure glad you recognized it, I was thinking I might have had to say it again myself!
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All you girly guys who snuck out on Saturday don't know NUTHIN about that rally. Check out a few pictures from this morning: [ATTACH]21918[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]21919[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]21920[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]21921[/ATTACH] I had a great ride home today, and the rest of y'all gotta just realize that the ONLY VentureRiders who hung around for the whole rally were the Texas riders!!!!! Goose
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There is nothing wrong with using a vacuum pump on the bench to test the CarbTune or any other manometer - in fact, you SHOULD do this. But you also need to understand how the tool works. The CarbTune is not a sealed unit like a liquid manometer or mechanical gauge. The metal rods are held up by the air rushing by them - that is the noise you here, the rods rattling in the tubes, not dragging. In fact, if they are NOT rattling and vibrating,then they are stuck, and you need to tap them to get them to move again. With a sealed manometer or gauge, you can use a vacuum pump and the gauge will just hold whatever vacuum you pump it to. The CarbTune will not do this, since the rods only stay up while the air is rushing by them. This does not make the CarbTune inherently worse, but the constant sticking and no way to adjust it when the rods do not read equal DOES make it worse. As I've said before, personally, I still like the simplicity and reliability of a set of sealed vacuum gauges! Goose
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The primary use of my smoker is to make jerky - that requires more drying than cooking, so a very low heat. I have a bit of a fat head about it, but for people who fancy themselves jerky lovers, mine is about the best there is. The only problem is that it is a bit too hot for some folks, even if they love the taste. I have tried to modify my recipe for some to take a bit of the pepper burn out, but it just seems too difficult to force myself to wimp out enough for everyone! I mean, what is the point of taking days to make it if you are gonna take out all the flavor? Goose
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Venture - Oooo La La! Ain't she purty! And I enjoy a 1,300 day on this bike 'cause it is THAT comfortable to me! Vision - AAAAARGH! HELP! Somebody wash this acid out of my eyes!!! I'm blind (or I wish I was)! AAAAARGH! FUGLY!!!!!!!!!!
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I have no idea if that painter is a bad actor or not, but if he has any brains he would never give you the parts - that would make HIM liable for them being missing. His only responsibility is to the person who gave him the parts, not some other stranger who claims to own them. The only person actually responsible right now is the person who actually received the parts from the owner. And he has already called you bluff on the complaints. Based on what you said above, is certain you won't do anything, so your only option now is to either just crawl away with your tail between your legs or take some real action. Any additional whining or threats will simply reinforce his belief that you won't actually do anything. Goose