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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    Because the front forks have such low volume and pressure for air, you absolutely must have a gauge with a zero loss chuck to even check them (such as the Progressive shock pump with gauge). Realistically, there is no way to properly set the pressure with a separate pump and gauge - you need a combined unit. Do NOT try to add air with any compressor! It is also absolutely critical to be CERTAIN that both forks are EXACTLY equal in pressure. Even a minor difference will affect the handling - not dangerous, but it is certainly noticeable that it just doesn't feel as confident. If in doubt, the best option is to just run with no air. This is the default factory setting and is absolutely fine for must riders and conditions. And in any conditions, it will be way better than having the pressure different in each fork. Last comment - a balance kit certainly seems to be a good idea. But there have been about equal reports here from people who had real problems getting one fitted correctly and those that said they work great with no problems at all. Just FYI. I'd suggest you do a search for old posts before you decide what to do. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    There have been a lot of either wrong or misleading comments here about the effectiveness of radar detectors. I have used a very low-cost detector quite a bit and found even that mediocre unit quite effective. It is true that most modern radar units are the "instant-on" type that can basically nail you before your detector let's you slow down. Because of this, if you are the only car on a lonely stretch of road, you are probably gonna get nailed if there is a cop out there looking for a target. But the fact is, you are rarely the only vehicle around, ESPECIALLY if you are running the superslab. In normal practice, the instant-on unit is used often enough to check the speed of passing vehicles that you regularly can pick up those short pulses from other vehicles long before you are the target yourself. Once you are warned there is radar in the area, you can decide yourself what to do instead of suddenly jamming on the brakes out of involuntary reaction when you spot the squad car. I have also found that it is still very common for a cop to just park themselves along the highway and leave the radar on all the time, getting a read on every vehicle passing. For all I know, maybe this is just a ploy to generally slow down the entire traffic flow just because they are there. Doesn't make any difference why; any detector is going to alert you to their presence long before you see them. I am not advocating either for or against using detectors, just want people to have real facts to make up their own minds. Just like knowing which states allow or not - do your own research, as many of the statements here are just wrong. For example, radar detectors ARE legal to use in Oklahoma. Ride safe, Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Just as an FYI - intermittent ignition noise in the 2nd Gen audio is not uncommon. Nobody has yet absolutely pinpointed the issue, but it sure seems like cable positioning under the tank. Most of us who have occasionally had the problem have found that just kinda shoving the cables around, wiggling them near the steering head, or even just turning the forks quickly to the steering stop on one side or the other would make it go away (at least for a while). The first time mine started it was right after I got it back from a service where they replaced the plugs. Moving the cables fixed it. I suspect that maybe the exact placement of the front plug wires may be critical. But all that said, it the OP's problem seems to be specifically related to just the new cable, his problem may be different. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    This document is 10 years old, but it seems much more accurate than the information from Kantornado on state laws for radar detectors: http://www.ncsl.org/programs/transportation/radar.htm and this one covers all states and Canada: http://www.1stradardetectors.com/radar-detector-laws.php Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Hey Bikerwatt - I'm glad to hear you didn't have any trouble with the warranty transfer. I don't know where you are at - checked your profile - no info, but it looks like you did a post there about some problems you were having last month that implies you are out near Abilene. Hope you got all that sorted out, but if not, why don't you throw a leg over that thing and ride over here to Fort Worth and let me take a look at it for you? If nothing els, we can shoot some #$%^ and drink a brew or two while we admire a fine machine! Ride safe, Goose
  6. V7Goose
    That looks like the same one Harbor Freight sells (HF is cheaper, I think). But you need the motorcycle adaptor to use it with bike wheels. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    OK, I finally went to the trouble to verify the operation of this circuit. Ahoutzer was absolutely correct that the carb heaters are only on when the bike is NOT in neutral. My confusion came from examining the schematic diagram, which shows the carb heater relay is activated by a ground through the Neutral switch. Since most relays are only closed when activated (called a "normally open" relay), that is why I suspected the carb heaters only came on in neutral. What the schematic does NOT show is that the carb heater relay is a "normally closed" relay, which means that when it is NOT activated, the contacts are closed and the carb heaters are on (provided the temperature is low enough for the thermal switch to kick on). So here is how the circuit works: When you turn the key on with the bike in neutral, you will hear the carb heater relay, located behind the right side battery cover, click ON, which cuts power to the carb heaters. With the key still on but bike not running, if you push on the shifter to make the neutral light go off, you will hear the carb heater relay click off at the same time. Because this is a "normally closed" relay, when it clicks off because the bike is not in neutral, the contacts in the relay close providing power to the carb heaters. Just thought I'd close the loop on this and share what I found, Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Your problem is not normal. These CBs are very clear. I have often been told by Frigidaire riders that mine sounded sooo much better than any of the wings in the group. Your bike has a warranty - have them fix it instead of messing with it yourself. Just my Goose
  9. V7Goose
    The warranty is on the bike, not the owner. I have read where others have said their dealer made them fill out forms and charged them money to do a "transfer," but this is not a requirement with a decent dealer. When I bought my 07 used, I just took it into my dealer and told them to fix a couple of things under warranty, which they did, no questions asked, no paperwork for me, and zero cost. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Tylenol PM HECK! He's makin me start on the martini early!!! Goose
  11. V7Goose
    I almost always downshift through each gear while slowing down just because I have been riding so long it became habit back when it was really necessary. Downshifting to slow down does wear out the rear tire faster, not only from the engine braking, but each shift puts a special load on the tire at the moment of clutch engagement. With modern brakes, downshifting is no longer of any particular value if you are just coming to a stop (but it sure sounds better!). And if you have good braking technique (meaning you use the front brake for about 75% of the stopping power), your rear tire will last longer too. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    100% of the time. I will not ride without a full helmet. In addition, I will not ride without full safety gear, meaning at least leather shoes/boots, leather chaps or other riding pants, leather gloves and riding jacket (leather or mesh with armor). Nor will I allow someone on my bike without the same level of gear. If I could schedule the next accident, I might consider riding without the gear, but I am neither that psychic nor that stupid. But still, this is a personal choice, and no one should be forced into wearing any protective gear EXCEPT passengers and minors (minors are too ignorant of the consequences of their decisions, and it is too easy to coerce a passenger into doing something they otherwise would not). Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Well, I think so. But then again, I don't like riding a cramped Frigidaire. But your mileage may vary. Just my personal opinion, but I think the RSV looks better, handles better, is much more comfortable, has a much better warranty and is certainly less expensive! As far as recurring problems, just like on a Wing forum, you will find lots of people discussing their issues. And a few have gotten a lemon and are very disappointed. Most of us are thrilled with the bike. The rear shock is a weak design. It works great, but will almost certainly go out at least once before 50,000 miles, but covered under warranty. A very few have a loud obnoxious chirp/whine in the engine. Make sure you test ride the one you are interested in first to ensure you don't hear anything you don't like. That's about it for significant issues. Lots more here to learn about the bike if you get that far. Good luck with whatever you decide, Goose
  14. V7Goose
    It is legal only if you have red lenses on the signals. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    No.
  16. V7Goose
    Check out the pictures in my profile for some ideas: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/vbpicgallery.php?do=view&g=161 Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Those numbers seem very common for the Avon Venom rear tires on the RSV. I have gotten about 15,000 each out of two of them. Of course, there are a few who will report both surprisingly short and long life out of the same tire, but the majority seem to be right around 14K. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Just an FYI - our schools in Texas start around the beginning of August. Besides, August is hotter than July. Moving the rally any later to try to hit cooler weather is liable to be a BIG impact on a lot of people. If we were going to consider moving it, earlier might be better than later. But then again, we won't be able to please everyone! Just some thoughts... Goose Nevermind... I just got finished getting caught up on this thread - lots of new posts since yesterday! I see I was way to late to offer that info. Oh well. Not an impact on me; hope it won't be on too many others.
  19. V7Goose
    I don't know man, I don't put 'em on my windshield, and I don't put 'em on my arse neither!
  20. V7Goose
    I ain't got no opinions - nope, none. And I ain't got no stinkin headlight flasher. Can't stand 'em, don't want 'em. Nope. Might as well just slip a big pair of boxer shorts with pink hearts on 'em over your windshield! It'll do the same thing, but I ain't gonna do that either! See, no opinions at all... Goose
  21. V7Goose
    I picked up the cheapie from Walmart and mounted it to the passenger grab rail - wife said she never used the rail, and over the last 4,000 mile trip she never had any interference from the water bottle at all. When riding solo, I put my spare gas bottle there! These will hold up to a one liter bottle with no problem. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Frankly, you have absolutely nothing to worry about - just take the revs up as fast as you can and keep them there! Take every gear to the rev limiter until you can't see him in your mirrors any more. Should be quite simple. You will lose just a little of your acceleration in reaction time shifting when you feel the rev limiter, but unless you have a tach or have practiced this enough to KNOW when you are are about 6,000 and just shy of the limiter, you will still be faster shifting when you feel it falter on the limiter than shifting too early. Your fastest shift will be to just keep a light pressure on the heel - as soon as the engine falters on the limiter (or the instant you slightly roll off the throttle to unload the gears) it will snick into the next gear and keep runnin! Once it shifts, you will need to raise your heel enough to reset the shifter, then put light pressure on it until it shifts again. It is beyond my imagination that a paint shaker will run with your bike if you ride it high in the revs! Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Yeah, the brakes are not touchy at all in normal use IMHO - but the first time you get in an emergency situation and instinctively move for a quick stop it is pretty easy to lock the rear up. Because of this, I do suggest spending a lot of time playing with the rear brake and practicing semi-panic stops when you first get one of these machines. You need to be familiar with them to be safe in a dangerous situation. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    You don't say where in Texas you are picking it up, but I know you are heading north. If you want to stop by my place not far from the DFW airport we can give it a quick once-over and chat about riding over a beer or coffee. Heck, I might even make a run with ya to the border! Enjoy your new bike (and make sure it has good tires on it!), Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Around both sides near the edge of the tread there are several small "TWI" marks (tire wear indicator). These don't seem very useful to me on the Venoms, however, as they curve across the tire and are not really visible except near the edge where the tire never wears out. If you do go by the tire wear indicator, you need to make sure you find one that crosses a tread groove in the center of the tire (not all do). Here is my suggestion for the Venom - there are very few tread grooves that cross the center, and even fewer that run all the way from one side to the other (there are only four of them, and each one ends near one of the snake heads in the side of the tread). Because of this, the center of the tire can look good longer than it really is! As the tire gets near end of life, those few tread grooves that run all the way across can disappear in the center and start to look just like the other groves that only run part way. That is the key - turn the tire to find each of those groves that run all the way from one side to the other and look at the tire right in the center. As long as the groove is still well defined there, you are good. I suggest looking at all four of those grooves because a tire does not always wear perfectly even. Goose
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