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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. Your post is not clear. I was not aware that any US auto maker was still using ammeters in the 90s - just about everyone converted to volt meters before then. But assuming you do have a real ammeter (either direct reading or shunt type), you need to specify if it is showing + amps or - amps. If it is pegged to the right (+), you do not have an alternator problem. The high charge rate is proof that the alternator is putting out. Possibly a bad regulator, but more likely a short or low resistance to ground. Bad battery is often the cause of that symptom. It is NOT going to be a blown fuse (or fusible link); that would stop the charging, not allow it to increase! The fact that the ammeter registers any current flow shows a complete circuit from voltage source to ground exists. If the ammeter is pegged to the left (-), then you DO have a charging problem, as all of the current flow is out of the battery. It is possible that a fusible link at the alternator could cause this problem, as it would work just like unplugging the alternator. Goose
  2. 36 hours, huh? Takin' those rides kinda easy, ain'tcha? My wife and I did 1,150 two-up in 18 hours the first week of December last year on our Venture, and I routinely do about 860 over to my brother's place in Georgia in 13 hours, but I don't waste any time stopping for food while I am on the road either! They are pretty easy to do long rides on in my book. Goose Oh, I agree with the earlier post - I wouldn't be blaming the machine for a pin-head in the service department!
  3. I don't know why your shield broke, but it is certainly possible that the plastic had some sort of defect. I neither have nor desire a Clearview shield, so I have no specific knowledge about them or reason to support them, but I DO have a hard time understanding how the whole shield could come off as you described if it was mounted correctly. With two holes for the center screws, it is MORE secure from this possibility than a stock shield, which only has one hole and five slots. The mounting bracket is supposed to have a rubber strip on it, and if the six screws in the fairing are properly tightened, I believe there is almost no way the shield could come out. Break off above the screws, yes, but come out? No. Perhaps your break and the complete separation of the shield are related? If the screws were not correctly tightened, there could have been way too much flexing going on. Just guessing, but thought I'd share the ideas. Glad you didn't have a more serious accident! Goose
  4. Welcome to the group. I'm really sorry to hear about the problems you have had with the new bike. It certainly is not common, especially when so new. The head gasket thing is unique to early 2007 models - there is a tech service bulletin relating to specific serial numbers only where the factory discovered they were ton torquing them correctly. I too had the lower left cowling crack, but that wasn't until about 30,000 miles, and they replaced it under warranty without hesitation. I wish you luck on many miles of trouble-free ownership after they finally get that stuff cleared away! Goose
  5. You shouldn't have any problem selling that tire for about the same price you paid for it. Although I no longer choose to use the MT90, quite a few others do. Just hang it off your trunk rack and drag it to Eureka Springs next week - somebody will want it, and they won't even have to pay shipping! Goose
  6. In the US, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act guarantees that they cannot play those games with you. In addition, any manufacturer who attempts to deny a warranty claim improperly can be forced to pay all your legal fees to enforce the warranty. Do some research, and if you have to, get a lawyer, but do NOT let the manufacturer or the other shyster dealer steal from you.
  7. I wouldn't worry about the MT90 being a mistake. Personally, after extensive testing and comparisons I think the Venom in stock size is better for most riders (see my very detailed comments here and in other old threads: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20815&highlight=recap). But you will find numerous folks that still like the narrower front tire too. The only time I found the MT90 unsatisfactory is when the rear tire gets near end of life and develops a flat profile - in that situation I found the MT90 tire makes the bike feel twitchy as the sharp shoulders on the rear tire begin to catch and jump around on road irregularities. Even if you experience the same thing, you won't have to live with it too long since the rear tire will be ready for replacement! Just enjoy your ride and wear out those tires, then you will have all the information you need to make a decision on the size you want when you need another front! Ride safe, Goose
  8. Woohoo! Rode 900 miles through Fay yesterday! Well, to be honest, the first 400 out of Fort Worth was dry and beautiful, but that last 500 - WOW. Thank goodness for a new Avon Venom on the rear - I was able to keep the bike around 70 MPH in just about everything without even a hint of anything but perfect control. Those tires are just AWESOME in the rain. Still have a Pirelli MT66 on the front, about half worn, and it did wonderful yesterday too. Sitting at my brother's place in north Georgia today watching it poor some more. Wonder where Fay keeps getting all this power and water? Hopefully it will move on by over night so we can head out for Arkansas tomorrow and some DRY riding! Goose
  9. V7Goose

    Owners Manual

    You can download electronic copies or purchase paper copies on the Yamahaha Star site. Goose
  10. Many owners have found out the hard way that you should not put flags on the 2nd gen antennas (they will break). Just thought I would pass that on. Goose
  11. I use the gauges sold by JC Whitney.
  12. I'm partial to the four gauges. I have used several CarbTunes, including one that was brand new, and I really dislike how much they seem to stick. I don't trust 'em much. But I am in the minority. Goose
  13. sounds normal to me.
  14. Sure would be nice if all 50 states passed a law like this. The squids that do this stuff just endanger everyone and make all the rest of us motorcyclists become scum in the eyes of the non-riding majority. Anything that can lock them away for a long time will get my vote! There is absolutely NO excuse for pulling a wheelie on public roads. If you can't shoot at 'em, lock 'em up. Goose
  15. Spiders will settle anywhere that is undisturbed. Get that bike out of the garage and ride it once in a while and the problem will be solved! Goose
  16. Just looks like an ugly Harley to me. Whatever brand it is in reality, it will still look like an ugly Harley if they release it like that. Goose
  17. I am surprised that no one has yet mentioned the tires here. It is almost universally agreed upon that the stock Brickstone tires cause the biggest problem with that slow speed heaviness. I won't go into a lot of detail here, but you can find LOTS of information on that with a search. So, the Venture comes with either Dunlop 404 or Bridgestone Exedra tires stock. The Dunlops are just average tires, but they don't particularly make the bike top-heavy at low speed the way the Brickstones do. My advice is simple - if the bike you plan to buy has the Dunlops, just take it and wear them out, then buy either Avon or Michelins. If it has Bridgestone tires, try to force the dealer to put ANYTHING else on it EXCEPT Metzelers (very dangerous - do another search here). You should be able to swing this as part of the purchase negotiations. If not, immediately buy new Avon Venoms and have them changed, then sell the Brickstones for whatever you can get while they are still new - even if it is only $30 each, that is still better than riding on them! Whatever you do, DON'T decide to just keep the Brickstones until they wear out, it ain't worth it! Goose
  18. JC Whitney used to sell them, but they were discontinued last winter. But check anyway, as sometimes they get an item back. I have seen them advertised at least one other place, but can't remember where. I'd suggest you just start doing a search for switches on all the main bike part sites - probably focusing on those that specialize in Goldwings. Goose
  19. I just use 4 pieces of 2x2 wood. I slide the jack under the bike and position the first two pieces under the left side frame rail (one in front of the kickstand switch). Just make sure the jack is not pushed too far in, as the bike will pull back to the right as it stands upright. With the wood in place on the jack rails, I just slowly start raising the jack, which gently stands the bike straight up. There is plenty of time to adjust the position of the wood blocks under the right frame rail before they touch as the bike stands up. Nothing to it!
  20. I don't know what KTG accessories are, but I ain't got any. My IC is always on for several reasons. First, my wife rides with me a lot - often just down to the store or something, and I hate having to take the time to mess with the radio/IC buttons to get it turned on. I like to listen for the connection when she plugs in to know everything is working as expected. If there was just one button to push, that might be different, but no, we have to push stuff about 16 times to get it set up! Second, as an avionics tech in the military long ago, I got very used to the hot-mic intercoms on the aircraft. The audio feedback of my own voice or clicking my tongue is an occasional and absent-minded "test" of the system. If I don't hear those sounds when wearing a headset, my brain jumps in and says something is wrong. I do not have any problem with wind noise or engine noise in my intercom. I use a bare mic without any foam cover, and it is positioned very close to my lower lip - often just barely resting on it, which cuts of all outside sound. But inside my closed flip-front Nolan helmet there is very little noise anyway. Keeping the microphones positioned like this, very close to the lips, is the main reason why my wife and I rarely need the IC turned above 12 in any situation.
  21. You definitely have something wrong. I ride with headset 100% of the time - lots of two-up, but the majority of miles are still solo. NEVER had a squeal of any kind. And my intercom is on and turned up 100% of the time. Usually not over 12, but in 60,000 miles, I've probably had it in all sorts of settings. Goose
  22. I have seen the oil level light flicker a couple of times - ONLY when under very hard acceleration in 2nd or 3rd gear and running up a slight incline. Throws all the oil to the rear enough to trigger the level switch. I did not notice a drop in my oil pressure gauge at the time, but frankly, it was so quick I would not have noticed unless I was staring at the gauge. Goose
  23. There is a detailed write up on mounting gauges in the 2nd gen tech library. Goose
  24. Well, back in the 60s I used to have a set of $10 Snuff-or-Nots on my Honda 305 scrambler that did the same thing - flip a knob and the pipes quieted right down. That was a bit more economical. Goose
  25. I hate to question you, but the one thing you said that does NOT match the kits I have done is the spring. It does not come in a Yamahaha bag, and although it is very hard to see any difference between it and stock spring, if you mic it, the PCW spring is thicker. The difference in thickness was also evident when the two springs were held side-by-side. In addition, the end result is a noticeable stiffer clutch pull. So my experience is that the spring is definitely an upgrade. The one new friction plate and gasket are Yamaha parts. Why don't you call PCW and put the question to them? Goose BTW - if Riderduke's clutch quit slipping like everyone else's has who has used this kit, to what do you attribute the improvement, if not the spring?
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