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V7Goose

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Everything posted by V7Goose

  1. V7Goose
    You must loosen the FRONT pinch bolt before trying to remove the axle, as the whole axle is threaded into the left fork (no nut). In contrast, you should NOT loosen the REAR pinch bolt before you take the nut off (so the axle will not turn while you remove the nut). Since the rear axle nut requires such high torque (over 100 lbs), you do need a long wrench, cheater bar, or other option to pop it loose. I usually just sit on the ground and use my left leg to move the breaker bar. Of course, make certain the bike still has both wheels in contact with the ground before you try to do either axle; since so much effort is needed you don't want to rock the bike on a stand! When putting the rear axle back in, be certain to tighten the axle nut as much as possible (until you either hit the proper torque or the axle starts to spin) BEFORE tightening the pinch bolt. If you tighten the rear pinch bolt too soon, you will bind up the swing arm, axle and brake alignment. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    My point was that they slid back very easily WITHOUT prying or clamps. When mine did not go right back in with the clamp, I knew they had to be binding up from off-center pressure, so another course of action was needed. I just stuck the piece of wood in between the pistons and twisted it, and the pistons on both sides slid in easily. If you have to put much pressure on them at all, something is WRONG, so stop. The other method I often use is to leave the old pads in place and just stick a large common screwdriver between them and gently twist or flex it to push the pads back (done with the calipers off the bike too). The fluid goes right back into the master cylinder without problem. Think about it - when the brakes are working, just letting off the lever needs to allow the pads to retract slightly and stop dragging on the disks. If any pressure was needed to push the pistons back in, the brakes would just stay tight. Unfortunately, from your description above, I suspect you may have damaged the pistons or bores with the C-clamp. If they were working properly, just a light push on the peddle or lever would cause them to pop all the way out immediately. Good luck finding out what is wrong. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    How can you "watch" as the "plug blew all the way out"? Those are secured behind the false cooling fin covers. If you have the covers off, there is nothing to hold them in, if the covers on on, you cannot see them, and there is NO way the plugs can come out. Missing some critical info here. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Your bike should still be under warranty - why don't you just have Yamahaha replace it? Goose
  5. V7Goose
    I have no idea what model of bike you have, but don't jump to conclusion the pistons are stuck. When changing the rear pads on my 05 last year I went my usual route of putting a C-clamp on them to push the pistons back in to make room for the new pads - didn't move! I put enough pressure on the C-clamp to leave circular marks on the finish on the outside of the calipers. Seemed pretty odd to me, since the brakes had been working fine, so I tried to move the pistons by just putting a 1x2 in there and twisting it - they slid right back as they should. I can only surmise that the C-clamp caused them to slightly tip and bind up in the bores. Never had that happen before, and I've done a lot of brakes over the years. Just thought the info might help you take another look. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    There is no way to open the Speedo head on this bike - if the dash lights go out, you have to replace the entire thing. I assume they are LEDs inside, but I do not know. If mine went out after the warranty is up, I would try to cut the case open with a rotary tool and cutting blade to do the repair myself, but other than that necessity, I would not mess with it. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    You cannot change or replace the dash lights on the RSV - only the idiot lights are replaceable bulbs. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    This has been discussed MANY times before - just scroll to the bottom of this page and look at those threads. Bottom line is that you have about 1.5 gallons left after the trip meter switches - that gives you a MINIMUM of 40 miles range, and 60 if you ride conservatively (based on average RSV MPG numbers of 35 - 40 miles per gallon. How many miles you get BEFORE the trip meter switches is simply a function of how full you got the tank and how you ride. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    In no particular order, but all possible: Pressure plate worn or damaged Clutch assembled wrong Activating rod bent so not fully retracting Slave cylinder needs rebuild steel plates polished moisture in your brake fluid
  10. V7Goose
    Absolutely - VERY offensive. The bright light aimed in my eyes is irritating, alters my normal focus and behavior, and knowing that it is being done deliberately (admittedly an assumption, but usually true) makes it Very Very offensive. Just my opinion, but you asked ... I suspect that if you asked 100 cage-only drivers, the VAST majority of them would tell you how offensive they find it, especially since many of them are already predisposed to dislike motorcycles due to inconsiderate noise, dangerous riding, etc. We are often our own worse enemies. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    I am not sure I understand your statement, so let me put it this way - The correct measurement for your light at any distance is somewhat lower than the actual height of the bulb. Without using any actual numbers ('cause I'm not gonna look them up right now), that means that at 12' in front of your bike, the light beam should ALWAYS be a little lower than the center of the bulb on the bike (but not quite as low as it would be at 25'). Hope that helps - and I realize that you might have been trying to say the same thing! Goose
  12. V7Goose
    Some very interesting attitudes exhibited in some of these posts. We all know that a vehicle, ANY type of vehicle, can be dangerous. This is true whether we are riding it, riding next to it or it is being driven toward us. Making a point to impair the vision of another driver, day or night, doesn't seem to be the wisest choice we could make. I also can't fathom how someone can honestly tell themselves that they are SAFER by irritating or blinding the other drivers on the road with them? Unfortunately, an awful lot of bikers seem to make the decision to ride with their high beams on all the time just for that purpose. Dangerous. A motorcycle's headlight changes the point of aim a lot just by changing the weight on the bike (how much the rear squats), that is why Yamaha made it so easy to adjust the headlight height just by turning a knob. Someone who normally rides solo can quickly find themselves blinding other drivers just by riding with a passenger and not changing the air pressure in the rear shock. Set it correctly by the book with the bike loaded like you ride most often, then go out at night and stop 40 or 50 feet from a stop sign and look at where the edge of the light hits the sign. Now you have a decent estimate on where to adjust the light if you find yourself out at night with the bike loaded considerably more or less than normal or if you have significantly changed the air in the rear shocks. Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Man, you way over tightened that thing! Most filters have instructions either right on them or on the box to turn about 1/2 - 3/4 turn past the point where the gasket first touches. If you turned it until it wouldn't turn anymore, you probably doubled that. The risk of a filter too tight is two fold - after it has been baked on, you will find it very hard to remove. And much worse, over tightening a filter can cause the rubber gasket to be squeezed out of the channel, causing a leak and dumping oil rapidly on the ground. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Had to make a round trip ride down to San Antonio Saturday (about 600 miles total). Gas around DFW area was around $2.95 at the discount stations. Between here and San Antonio the best prices seemed to be around $2.89, but I saw an HEB station selling at $2.56 and one Murphy at $2.52! Both of those were in Hillsboro, I think. Still huge variations in price from one station to the next - wish I knew where it was going. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    There are many of us who believe that Fram is such a huge POS that we will never use one in any application. I won't go into the details here since they are so easy to find with a simple web search on Fram quality. Just thought I'd throw out that heads-up here so anyone who doesn't already know about the issues can do some simple research and make their own informed decision. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    Common cause of odd tire/handling problems is the tire beads not being completely and properly seated, either front or rear. You might be surprised how often this is a problem if you don't mount a lot of tires and properly inspect them. Look close at the tire next to the rim; there should be several concentric circles or ridges in the tire that are all exactly concentric with the rim all the way around. On the bike, the only way to really inspect this is to raise the tire off the ground and smoothly rotate the tire while watching the ridges. If the tire is laying on the ground it is pretty easy to see if the ridges are not exactly equal all the way around the rim. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Once after putting front wheel back on I had no brakes up there. I could squeeze it a thousand time and nothing changed. I found one of the pads was not fully aligned on the rail; one of the ears was caught on the corner and bent back from the piston trying to force the pad toward the disk. After I straightened out the ear and made sure the pads were correctly on the rails, all worked fine. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    Did you get the washer in the correct position on the right side? How about the spacer over the bearing on the left side - did you ensure the smooth side was out? A mistake on either of these will cause the brake disk to be in the wrong position. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    OK, here's my opinion, and of course it's the best; just ask my wife! Wait a minute, maybe she just constantly tells me I think my opinion is the best.... Oh well, it must be if I think so, right? Let's take the last point first - whatever friggin' idiot told you to run premium gas is the first place you should NEVER NEVER go back to! Bad English, but you get my drift. That fool quickly showed you just how stupid he is, and that stupidity will show up in any work he does on your bike. A little on-line research will quickly show that I DO know what I am talking about here. Premium plugs = waste of money. They work fine, but provide absolutely ZERO improvement in performance or economy. The only benefit is that they last a lot longer, so if you plan on not changing plugs for 50,000 miles or more, they might be a good choice. Re-jetting is PROBABLY not needed. Certainly not from the K&N filters alone (but your engine will wear out faster with those poor filters). I base the statement that those filters do not change jetting on the fact that Yamahaha offers them as a standard option. The "probably" is needed because you have non-Yamahaha pipes. I have absolutely no idea how those pipes might have changed the mix, so it is possible (but not probable) that they, combined with the K&N filters, could breath free enough to change the mixture. The correct answer here is to just read your plugs after a couple of tanks. If they are not white, you don't need to consider re-jetting. Good luck figuring out who really knows what they are talking about! (here's a hint - it's me!!!! ) Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Just call PCW Racing and tell them you want their spring kit for the RSV. See details in other threads. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    I don't know where you are in Texas, but if near DFW you need to bring that thing over here and let me do a quick once-over for you and sync the carbs. Won't take us more than about 30 minutes unless we find something wrong. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    They are just cheap Chinese tires. A few people like them, a few hate them. I have never heard anyone say they lasted well. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Sorry, a different pressure plate will have zero effect on how long the clutch lasts. The strength of the spring, no matter what type, WILL have a big effect on the life of the clutch, and I suspect the PCW spring is plenty strong enough to make the clutch last just as long as the Barnett springs. Admittedly, I have no factual basis for this statement, since my bike currently only has 55,000 miles on it (still has the stock plates, with the PCW spring added 15,000 miles ago), But I'll let ya know when I roll past the 100K mark! IMHO, any wet clutch with proper spring weight that is not abused will last at least 100,000 miles. The stock clutch spring on the RSV is not acceptable. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Your charging system will not handle 55 watt lights if the carb heaters are on. You won't have an immediate problem, but the battery will not completely charge, leading to an early death and required replacement before its time. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Didn't even finish reading your post, but thought I'd try to get this info to you ASAP. Nothing wrong with your radio - just need to turn off the headset. You might want to read the manual. Going from memory here - hit the select button (middle one) once. You will see "HS", now hit either the up or down arrow once, the display will change to "SP" and you will magically hear sound from all your speakers. Your volume knob will even work. Try it; you'll like it. Goose Oh, the "CD" doesn't work 'cause there ain't none. The AUX will work fine if you plug something into the jack next to the cassette slot, and the cassette will probably work fine if you put one in there. But then again, if you don't have any problems hearing the CB, maybe I'm just FOS and you really do have a problem. Hard to accurately diagnose from long distance.
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