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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    Read both of my posts in this thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=23933
  2. V7Goose
    Actually that is backward. In part of my testing I had a nearly new Avon rear tire and re-mounted a good Brickstone stock front tire, expecting the horrible slow speed heaviness and jerkiness over uneven road surfaces to return. I was quite surprised to find that the tracking and jerkiness had been caused by the cruddy Brickstone REAR tire, not the font as I had believed. With a good Avon rear tire, the bike tracked great and was mostly immune to ridges and grooves. In addition, since I had the leveling links on at the time of this test, the nasty slow speed heaviness did not really come back either. Just to clear up RockinRuss' misconception that assumed my only testing consisted of taking off an OLD Brickstone and putting on a new tire of a different brand - NOT SO! "All this bashing of Bridgestone is after feeling the improvement by removing an old and/or used Bridgestone and replacing it with a new different brand," is NOT correct. My bashing of the horrible handling, the excessively heavy feeling, and the attempt of the bike to force the forks into a full-lock condition as soon as you committed to any slow speed turn began even before I purchased my first RSV - during the test ride! At that time I did not know it was 99% caused by those horrible tires, but I learned that by extensive testing and comparison. My complaints about how poor the Brickstones gripped and how easy they consistently busted loose on 2nd and 3rd gear acceleration came from riding on them for 8,000 miles, and then riding on lots of different tires on the same bike for another 50,000 miles. My complaints about the terrible howling on even slight leans and lane weaving came from riding on them for 8,000 miles and then comparing that to other tires for 50,000 miles. My complaints on how fast and FLAT the rear Brickstone tire wore and how it was very dangerous in that condition when it violently jerked the bike around over pavement ridges came from actually riding that tire from new to dangerous, then wearing out 3 Avon rear tires on the same bike and noting how they did NOT get either as flat OR ever cause the bike to violently jerk when encountering pavement ridges. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    If you want to send the broken bolts to me, I can almost certainly braze them back together. Worse case, I can probably make a new set. Won't cost you anything but postage. Let me know. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I don't doubt that YOU have had the problems you described. I am sorry for you. It should not have happened, and the manufacturer should have fixed it better. But the FACT is that the vast majority of us do NOT have the problems you complain about. Even the whine afflicts only a very small percentage of these bikes, and most of those have been fixed by Yamaha (or at least made better to an acceptable level according to the owners who have reported here). I have had two RSVs (my 05 and an 07 I just sold), and both are great bikes without any of the problems you complain about. If I needed to buy a replacement bike today, the ONLY bike I personally would consider is another RSV. Just my choice. Ride Safe, Goose
  5. V7Goose
    Since cylinders 1 and 2 are both using 122.5 jets, that is the size I would try in the other two also. But I can certainly understand why you wouldn't want to mess with yours right now! Goose
  6. V7Goose

    Rear Shock

    V7Goose replied to pick's topic in Watering Hole

    No less expensive option, but there is one and only one more expensive option. Works Performance. Once the bike is out of warranty, that seems to be the way to go. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    The screws are simply tamper-resistant Torx T20 screws (with the post in the middle). The manual says you have to lift the carb assembly up to get to them. This is mostly true, but if you just use a Torx bit without the screwdriver attached, you can get the bit in the screw head and then turn it with a 1/4" open end wrench without removing anything except the fuel tank. The measurement and adjustment procedure is in the Carb section, starting on page 6-11. The sensor itself cannot be adjusted if the total resistance is out of range, but the sensor rotates a bit in the mounted position to enable you to set the correct resistance with the throttle fully closed. You will need a digital ohm meter to reasonably make this calculation and adjustment; although, a high quality analog meter should work if that is all you have. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    No need to remove the caliper! The pads slip right out the top after you remove the two pins and spring. No need to release any pressure in the system to retract the pistons. Just use a flat piece of wood or large screwdriver to apply leverage to the pistons and they will slide right back into the caliper exactly like they do when you release the brake. The level of the fluid in the master cylinder will simply go back up to the full mark as it was when the bike was new. No need to bleed the brakes at all if it wasn't spongy before you started. Using this method absolutely prevents any air or other contaminates from entering the system. Just remember to pump up the brake before you test ride it so they will work the first time you step on the peddle! Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Anyone here ever tried to adjust the throttle position sensor on a 2nd gen (or even just check the closed throttle measurement)? I think I found another significant error in the shop manual, but I would like to compare notes with others who may have already gone there. Page 6-13 of my shop manual describes how to calculate the proper maximum resistance of the sensor in the throttle fully closed position (typically around 700 ohms), then they instruct you to measure this resistance between the yellow and blue wires. Well, the resistance between the yellow and blue wires is HIGH in the fully closed position and goes down as you open the throttle. You get the correct low resistance with the throttle fully closed when measured between the yellow and BLACK wires. Just for the record, the TPS on my 05 was reading a bit high in the fully closed position, and it could not be adjusted down within specs - close, but not quite low enough (calculation showed it should have been between 629 - 726 ohms. It started at 778 ohms and I could not get it below 752 ohms). I have not researched this circuit yet to know how this should affect the bike. I'll let y'all know more when I figure it out. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Hey man, I know you are fairly new to our group - welcome to the site and I hope you really enjoy your RSV - most of us here think it is the best bike you can buy today. I'm sorry that the comments of another member made in light-hearted jest got under your skin; please try to understand the spirit in which they were offered. I've seen new people on other sites complain that they couldn't get any responses from the long-time members, and we don't have that problem here. I believe flb 78's comments were more meant to just show you that folks here were paying attention to you. The thing that makes this site so different and better than 99% of the other forums you might find is the great family atmosphere we have here. The only way we can keep that is to treat each other with respect. Disagreement is not only fine and expected in a large group like this, but when it is discussed civilly, we all learn from it. However, it is extremely important that all members avoid the name calling, insults and personal attacks that can destroy what we have. Thanks for listening, and I hope we see more of you around here! Goose
  11. V7Goose
    I would love to do that, but I don't think I am willing to pay for a shop to adjust all the carbs with an exhaust gas analyzer twice just to know! I guess I'll have to go find a shop I can do a deal with to see how reasonable I might be able to do this. I'd sure like to know what difference it makes. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    That's an interesting guess - I have long thought that Yamaha has deliberately de-tuned this engine to introduce a bit of a vibration and uneven sound at idle to somewhat mimic a V-twin - there really isn't much reason a V-four like ours shouldn't purr completely smooth, but it does not. I imagined that they did this with a different cam, but maybe it is something else? The main jet shouldn't affect idle, should it? Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Now ya see, this is an example of someone I really wish I could ride side-by-side with and compare actual miles and gas pumped, then do a lot of testing on the bikes to find what is different if we can actually verify the drastically different reported MPG - just WAY too far off to be normal variation. Without actually seeing it, I just cannot imagine those numbers as being realistic for the RSV (no offense meant). That kind of testing and eventually finding a real cause for the difference would be very valuable for our members! Goose
  14. V7Goose
    Just posting this info for general information - no particular reason (all comments below apply to the US49 models, I did not look at the CA models): I spent some time comparing the Yamaha parts breakdown for the carburetors on various years and models of the Royal Stars. The most interesting and puzzling fact I found is that ALL Royal Star VENTURES have three different sized main jets between the four carburetors! Cylinders 1 & 2 use a #122.5 jet, Cylinder 3 uses a #117.5 jet, and Cylinder 4 uses a #120 jet. To complicate this explanation a bit further, each carb shows three different jets that are labeled as "Jet, main," of which two are always the same in all four carbs, but the third one is different! For example, the parts breakdown for an 05 RSV shows item 26 as Jet, main #85, item 27 as Jet, main #140, and item 29 as Jet, main #120 (UR #4), #117.5 (UR #3), and #122.5 (UR #1,2). Confused yet? I am. The maintenance specifications in the shop manual only shows one main jet (with the different sizes for each cylinder), so the other two that the parts breakdown lists as main jets are misnomers. The part numbers for the carburetors on the Venture have changed several times (99-04 same part number, 05-07 same part number, and 08 another new part number), but the jets are identical on all of them. I did not try to look close enough to find out what parts did change with the new carb part numbers. The RSTDs have a different carb part number than the Ventures, but the jets are identical. The other Royal Star models BEFORE the Venture all used the same main jet size in all four carburetors. In 1999, the Royal Star Boulevard, Tour Classic, AND Tour Deluxe all used 4 #117.5 main jets, but the 1999 Venture was the first one to use the three different jet sizes. For the life of me, I don't have a clue why the two left cylinders should use the same jet size, but each of the right side cylinders has a different size (one larger and one smaller)??? But they do. Wish I had an exhaust gas analyzer; if I did, I would play around with seeing what happened if I set them all the same size. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    I believe that the majority of the reported MPG numbers are done with the indicated speed and mileage numbers from the stock bike. While a few people do have devices to correct the speedometer, and some do use GPS systems, I'd bet those are in the minority. To me, this means that reporting the numbers based on the indicated miles is probably the most valuable for comparison to most people. HOWEVER, the most critical issue is that we should always clarify how measured - that is the only way to be sure we have apples to apples comparison. BTW, my limited testing of 4 different RSVs has shown that all of them were off by exactly the same amount in speed. This makes sense to me, as I believe all the units are manufactured identically. Despite this, I have seen very different comments about the percentage the stock bike is off. Likewise, my initial testing showed the stock odometer was much closer to actual than the speedometer is, but others claim that both are off by the same amount. I'm just pointing out how much you CANNOT trust the "facts" that are so quickly thrown around! My "facts" may be right or wrong, but since they are different than other members' "facts," the one thing we know for sure is that at least one of us is wrong (and maybe both) anytime they do not match. Oh, one more note - despite the statement I made above that I thought all stock RSVs are probably off by the same percentage in speed and miles, I'm really not so sure about this any more. When my brother and I tour together (him on his 07 RSV and me on either my 05 or 07), our indicated mileage is never exactly the same when we fill up, even though we usually take very close to the same amount of gas! Our speeds DO indicate the same, but very slight variations in speed would be impossible to accurately see on the speedometers, and that WOULD add up to a different mileage reading over many miles. I have never tried measuring actual tire diameters (to account for different brands and wear) and then calculating that out to see if it would account for the differences, and I doubt if I ever will - just too much trouble! Goose
  16. V7Goose
    I just went back and re-read this thread - all the basic things have already been pointed out (I don't know how one cylinder not firing would have caused this, but my comments on the test were just to help people to understand how to do it, not that it was germane to this topic). Although my first reply to you was that it sounded normal, I do agree that it seems strange that it is oily again so soon after you did a good cleaning as described. I know that once these engines get a bunch of oil in the vent, they seem to always stay that way even after the oil level is corrected, and the amount of oil you blew out of the vent hose seems to explain why. But since you DID blow it out and cleaned everything else well, I would have expected it to stay clean for a while. So all that was a long way to say I don't have any other ideas right now. With a bike that new, I would suggest you just ride it until you can take it back to a dealer and leave it a while for them to sort out. Here is the best way to make your case with them: Take pictures of the oily mess with date stamps on the pictures, clean it all well again and take new pictures of clean (with dates) and include picture of odometer and oil sight window. Take it out for good ride, then take new pictures of mess and odometer again with dates. Now when you explain it all to the shop, the pictures will support how quickly it is blowing oil and help convince them something is wrong. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    As others have already pointed out, the Goldwing rack (that is what JCW sells) is often used on the RSV. But I advise caution, especially if you actually plan on using it a lot. Some owners have reported problems with lid cracking. Take a look at the Yamahaha rack - there are metal plates running front-to-back between the mounting bolts on BOTH the inside and outside of the trunk lid. These take virtually all of the stress from the rack. If you are going to use any other rack, I would STRONGLY suggest you use a large fender washer on the inside of each mounting bolt, and a large chrome washer on the outside. These will not distribute the stress near as well as the long padded plates, but it will help. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    I have reported my fuel mileage many times here, so what I am about to say won't be anything new. After recently adjusting the choke linkage on my 05, my mileage seems to be better, but still in the range I expect out of an RSV. In short, based on my own 50,000 miles (combined) on an 05 and an 07, and also about 10,000 miles touring with my brother on his 07 RSV, I believe that average mileage on the RSV is typically 36 MPG/US gallon, based on bike odometer. Running at an actual 80 (indicated 87) will drop that into the low 30s, and riding an average 45 - 50 in the hills and twisties will increase mileage per gallon to the mid 40s. I have long looked with suspicion on those who report constant high 40s on an RSV. It is NOT that I don't believe them, just that I am convinced that something is different in the way they measure it or ride. I would LOVE to ride a few hundred miles in any conditions with one of these folks to compare just how many miles our bikes report and exactly how much gas we both buy at the same time and same station. That kind of side-by-side comparison would do a whole lot to validate what is actually being reported! I don't know when or if I will ever get that opportunity, but I am heading up to Ontario soon, and I guess we will do 3,000 or 4,000 miles on that trip. I will be riding two-up and loaded. When I get home, I will report here on the exact fuel mileage for EVERY tank on this trip, along with the conditions we observe for each tank. I will also use my GPS to compare actual versus indicated speeds and miles. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    This test is best done on a cold bike, and quickly. Within 10 - 30 seconds of starting it, use the tip of your finger to touch the actual exhaust pipe near the exhaust port and under the heat shield. If you wait longer than 30 seconds or so, you will burn your finger. Because they heat up so fast, the difference in one cylinder not firing should be quite obvious. Feeling around the heat shield on an already warm bike tells you nothing, since the overall engine emanates similar heat from the circulating water and oil. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    GigaWhiskey really put on a great meet today! Everything was well organized and came off without a hitch THANX! Goose
  21. V7Goose
    When I found the tab broken on my 07, the piece was still stuck in the rubber grommet - just had to push it out from the back. When you use the solvent on pieces like this, you cannot try to put it into use as fast as you can plastic pipe - Since there is no friction fit between the pieces to hold them together, you need to let the solvent completely evaporate and the plastic get totally hard. That is why I said I let mine sit overnight before I put it back on. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    I agree to have them replace it under warranty. But just an FYI - the ABS plastic is quite easy to repair. I found one of those mounting tabs busted off on my 07 while on the road a couple of months ago. I just took plumbing solvent for gluing ABS pipe together and glopped it all over the broken parts of the tab and stuck it back together and let it sit overnight. That plumbing solvent actually melts the plastic, so it is performing a "weld" and making the two pieces one again instead of just gluing then together. If the pieces fit together correctly, fixing them with the plumbing solvent/glue should be every bit as good as new. Just make sure it is the one marked specifically for ABS (the multi-purpose one for all three types - PVC, CPVC, and ABS - works too. It is also good to pre-treat the broken pieces with purple primer solvent. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    OK, I have just burned my first tank of gas since adjusting the choke linkage on my 05 RSV "QuickSilver." Although just one tank is too soon to be absolutely certain, the results so far are VERY positive. I burned this tank around town and some local freeway riding. In those conditions, I'm pretty sure I never got better than 36 MPG. This tank came in at a solid 38 MPG. I'm looking forward to getting a full tank through it on the highway to see what I get. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Well, I didn't see a response to this question, but I assume all the rally money is gonna somehow get together anyway. So in an effort to save the $1.6 billion (US) necessary to send another letter to the Frozen North:rotf:, I'm just gonna put another $100 check for raffle tickets in with my registration. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    OK, I guess I gotta buy some friggin tickets! But I ain't gonna use PayPal for nuthin. I got the envelope for my registration sitting here waiting to finally go to the post office in the morning - can I just throw the money for the tickets in there? Thanx Goose
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