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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. You'll want to leave the probe in the battery. The lead has a connector that you can unplug and then do the mod. MOF you can put a bullet plug on the end on the resistor wire lead to make a sanitary install....??
  2. Some folks just have to much time on their hands......
  3. If it is a DEKA try disconnecting the battery from the bike while it's sitting and see if that doesn't make a difference. You may have a drain problem. IF it isn't, not all AGM's are created equal. My '99 came with a 'Bike Master' (made in Taiwan) AGM that wasn't worth a hoot and one month out of warantee. Replaced it with the DEKA and other than the 'kill' symptoms is doing good....
  4. Anyone have an 1T engine hoist you can borrow?? I'd loan you mine but it's a little too far away.... Dang I love BBQ's!!!!!
  5. I'd be hesitant to use any type of paint remover on a painted bike. Our 1stGens and RSV's are painted. That highway lane paint is tough stuff. I'm not saying this would work, but if the paint is over spray I'd try spraying the area with WD40 and very carefully cut the 'dots' off with a razor blade. Especially if the bike has a good wax job to begin with. When taking a long trip I spray the lowers with PAM. Road crud washes right off. Pledge for the buggy windshield...
  6. For $60 bucks it's probably an 'El Cheepo' wet cell, but I'd suggest doing the mod anyway. The battery level sensor is about as worthless as boobs on a bore, and has caused more problems then it's worth. Battery acid levels should be part of regular maintence anyway. I was one of the first members to go with an AGM battery in my '83 way back when, and finding any info on getting rid of the warning light was near impossible. I finally ran into a post on some non-discript website that dealt with disabling the warning light because of a faulty wet cell sensor, took it, and wrote up the tech article for the AGM. I started with an Odyssey PC680, and even did a couple of very popular group buys on them. After a couple of years I changed to a DEKA ETX18L, which had the same footprint as the OEM, and was much better economically. Although I think my '91 is still running an Odyssey?? I put a DEKA ETX20L in my new2me '99RSV...also the same foot print...and it took 2.5 days running to Cody on battery power only to drain it down to 8.9vdc and the bike to die in a small town in Wyoming. I've never seen a battery give that low of a reading unless it sat in a junk yard for a couple of years. This one did. Thought I'd murdered it. Assault-n-battery... That incident made me a big believer in the DEKA. I put it on a charger when I got to Cody and it recovered to full. Amazing!! I have it back in the bike and it's doing OK. Seems to loose it's charge quicker while sitting, but what can I expect after what I put it though. Riding daily isn't a problem. Sorry to wander with old war stories....
  7. I have a set that have a faux 1" aluminum stud mounted to the side to give the rubber mounts something to ride on... I've seen posts by other members that have done.. flipped something and jammed the rubber in there...
  8. There's always a lot of talk about exhaust noise and what's loud and what's proud. Basically I think even if you did get pulled over, a LEO isn't going to write you up. Noisy exhaust's are an equipment violation. They don't make a thing. You generally have 30 days to correct the problem and get it signed off. Zero money made. They'd rather write a 30 or 40 over ticket and collect the big bucks... I personally don't know any of my riding friends in over 40 years that have gotten a ticket, and some had a ton of bark. You'd probably get some attention if you fired up the beast in a residential area every morning at o530hrs... That said I still have my OEM's hanging out in the garage....
  9. I'd try reducing the crank case oil to the middle of the lines on the sight glass while on the center stand. With your oil at the top line it's boarder line overfull....
  10. I had mine replace at the beginning of last winter. $300 bucks and that included installation....
  11. My '83 didn't leak but had glass that was turning into swiss cheese. Rather than try to fix them I found another set on eBay with clear glass for around $25 bucks. R&R'd the masters and was good to go.... Don't know what caused the swiss cheese effect, but think it might have been the P.O.'s attemp at cleaning them with a non-compatible chem...
  12. We lost a couple....3 independants a few years ago, and I'm a little surprised that more 'Brands' didn't go under. Thinking about it... maybe it was because they are all aligned/owned by bigger diversified businesses??? Stand alones just don't have the resources to weather the storm....
  13. Pull off the fin cover for the left side. There are a couple of ruber seals that leak on occasion. If the coolant is coming out of the exhaust tip and is going thru the combustion chamber the exhaust will smoke like an SOB....
  14. Mine never gave me a problem.... If those settings bother you try 3 and 45, and bounce a little.... Your call....
  15. Set the damper on 4. To get there go from 1-2-3-4, not 4-1 or 1-4 directly. Go to max pressure on the CLASS shock. Mine reads 71# on auto. That should take care of the weight.
  16. My rebuilt Bubbs have a great rumble to them, but when I break the sound barrier they get really quiet......
  17. Milage is purely subjective and depends on riding style, and conditions. 13,000 on a rear tire ain't too shabby compared to others who have complained. The Venom is a performance tire and traction will be placed at the top of the list, and it does that job very well. If you want something that's going to last forever look around for a harder compound tire, but be prepared to take it easier in the twisties. It's always a trade off. Performance or milage, or somewhere inbetween. But you can't have one with out loosing the other....
  18. On older bikes the possibility of air leaks is greater with the YICS hooked up. Sometimes it helps to disconnect it. On the '83 there is one hose that needs to be left alone from the #2 carb to the booster. Should always be checked and replaced as needed....
  19. Are you using a multi-meter or one of those permanent aftermarket lcd dash displays to check voltage?? You might try another multi-meter. I don't trust those on dash models. With what you're saying it's possible you might have a bad rectifier.... Unless you've changed the location of the rectifier it does get pretty hot where it's mounted. However.... I've run my '83VR with a DEKA acrossed Nevada in 100+ temps for 1000+ miles and never had a problem with the battery not staying charged. PS. I don't know if it's already been mentioned but have you cleaned the battery ground wire where it attaches to the frame down by the waterpump on the right side of the bike?? A bad ground will screw things up...
  20. Condor

    MC AD

    ...
  21. If there were more than just hearsay about one tool breaking it might be a good reason, but my stupid questions still stand... MOF I can't imagine how anyone could have broken one of these tools unless it was misused?? or there was a big flaw in the casting???
  22. OK, I have a couple of stupid questions..... Why does this thing need to be hardened, or made out of steel?? It just compresses the valve spring, who cares how accurate it compresses them?? How many times will it be used in it's lifetime?? Also why can't it be made out of easier to machine T-6 aluminum??? Heck, I bet it could be made out of plastic...
  23. Lets face it. The Venture is dead... If Y does release a 2013 it will only be a different color. Nothing more. I bet there hasn't been a Venture off the assembly line in 3-4 years, and once the warehouses are empty of crated bikes it'll be over. It all boils down to the almighty buck. If they can't make a decent profit on the bike they're going to go another direction. The way the economy has been declining for the last 4 years they're going with the cheaper to build, and affortable off-road and street bikes. That's where the market and dollars are. They're not stupid. IMHO.....
  24. I'm with Goose on this one. Somehow the crankcase breather has been kinked. It runs from the top of the 'twinkie' in the valley of the V to the base of the air cleaner box. It's a real challenge for those of us with big hands to get in there and hook it up properly. The hose itself has a dog leg in it, and it's needed to snake through the carb linkage. A regular replacement hose won't work as it will kink when it's bent causing the blockage...
  25. Youse guys are just lucky I didn't buy any tickets....... AND... You're welcome ELDR....
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