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MasterGuns

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Everything posted by MasterGuns

  1. MasterGuns
    James, I've never met ya but wanted to help anyway. PP sent. Good luck to ya.
  2. MasterGuns
    Gary, Can you please explain in a little more detail. Did you mean to type "flange" vice flag. I am wondering why my right side muffler doesn't seem to go on the collector very far. If I push it on further, the mounting hole doesn't line up with the mount on the passenger floorboard. Would this the effect of my right side muffler being a MKI when it should be a MKII?
  3. MasterGuns
    Is there a difference between MK1 and MK2 exhaust?
  4. MasterGuns
    I'm moving things back to the stock location. Been riding these ventures since 86 and never had an issue with one getting wet. So, the heck with it. Besides it took me about 35 minutes to take things apart, remount the TCI and boost sensor, hook up all the wires. I got tired of feedin the skeeters, so I'll finish things up tomorrow evening.
  5. MasterGuns
    I have looked at everything more times than I care to admit, but my faux tank cover simply will not lock into place with the TCI mounted on top of the air cleaner box. The a/c box is properly and fully seated, the carbs are full seated into their boots, and with the TCI on top of the a/c, there is just not enough room for the cover to be mounted. So, I am going to return both the TCI and the boost sensor to the stock location. What a waste of time. But learn something new everyday. Atleast I found my b/s wasn't working at all.
  6. MasterGuns
    Just got done relocating the TCI to the top of the airbox and while I was at it found the boost sensor to be bad and replaced it. Thanks to a popular member here, I was able to do so fairly quickly. Anyhow, now that the TCI is on top of the airbox, I am concerned with it getting hot due to the lack of cooling airflow around it. In its original location, while moving forward at any speed, air flow I think flowed around the TCI providing a cooling effect. Even though that air had passed through the radiator, I am pretty sure it was a lot cooler than the air that will now surround it being on top of the airbox. If this is correct, what would be the effect? Could that hotter air lessen the longevity of the TCI? Or am just one of those Mr. Fulla Schitt that I was reading about a few minutes ago?
  7. MasterGuns
    Frank, I had the same oil leak you are describing. Got bad real quick. I had no choice but to pull the thing apart fully expecting the leak to be the stator grommet. But that was dry as a bone. My problem was the gear indicator switch was loose as a goose; all three screws. I removed the entire switch and cleaned out the screw holes with some really long q-tips and reassembled with locktite. Even though the oil was leaking from that switch, the oil was dripping down to the top of the exhaust collector and running down the top to the left side, then finding its way down onto the concrete making it appear as though the grommet(s) was the problem. Oh yeah, I replaced the o-ring on the switch as well. Easy fix.
  8. MasterGuns
    Thanks Gary. You know, I've read lots of posts about relocating the TCI to the top of the air box. Thought this would be as good a time as any to do so. I a thread or two was from those that had room on top the air box for both the TCI and the boost sensor. Well, simply put; "there is no way both these will fit on top of this air box". I've tried every which way possible. TCI is no problem space wise. But add the b/s onto the top of the airbox and I about cooked my brain tryin to figure that out. Even looked as some pics but no way on this one. Why? Who knows. But I finally did find an alternate home for the b/s and that is on the left side behind the airbox and just left of the top of the rubber thingy that catches spilled gas when filling up. Seems to fit there just perfect. I wonder if anyone else ever located the b/s there. I don't see why it would matter. Any comments would be appreciated. I know, pics are worth a thousand words. Also, I noticed that some mounted the TCI on top of the airbox with the two air holes up (up side down from the original mounting) and some mounting it with the air holes down. Does it matter? Does anyone think water could enter those two holes while on top of the airbox? Just curious. Perhaps I should remove the other ear and turn it over with the air holes down. Anyway, can't wait for an operational b/s cause I don't think this one has been working since I bought this thing. See ya and you didn't say anything about my $ offer. Herb
  9. MasterGuns
    I have been trying for some time to figure out why my 86 VR doesnt get the mileage some on here claim. Mine, ever since installing the 89 motor (and even with the original 86 motor) struggles to get just slightly over 30 mpg. In addition, the bike has always seemed not to have the umph at higher rpms. My old 88 ran like a scalded dog all the way up to redline. And I have done about all one can do, carbs, sync, plugs, wires, caps, compression is great, valves are right on, no vacuum leaks etc. Well, after reading another thread earlier this week about boost sensors, today I pulled the b/s vacuum line from the manifold, applied vacuum with a mity vac and it would hold nada, nil, ziltch. I had no choice but to pull the necessary stuff to completely remove the rubber vacuum line to check it out and it is just fine; no cracks, plastic connector or balancer, whatever that little gray plastic piece is called is just fine as well. Applied vacuum to just the hose and it holds vacuum just fine. I then pulled the b/s and tried applying vacuum direct to the sensor and you can suck air through it like a straw. That is the culprit in my mileage issue and can't help but call it the culprit in the lack of high end performance. So, does anyone have a good one they are willing to part with? If so, please let me know and I will gladly pay your price. There are several on fleabay but no way of knowing they are any better than the one I just removed. Hope this works. Thanks so much Herb
  10. MasterGuns
    Hah; so glad my urinalysis was this morning.
  11. MasterGuns
    All 83 - 93 gear indicator switches are the same. Make sure the new old stock one you are getting isn't cracked. Be sure to use locktite when installing the new one and be extremely careful not to overtighten cause you will surely crack the plastic. If your old one is just leaking, perhaps you should just replace the o-ring. Forget that last sentence as you stated the wiring is about fried.
  12. MasterGuns
    I don't wave at anyone no matter what they're ridin; I dislike everyone equally. Besides this whole "wavy" thing is about a silly as it can get. Besides if you need affirmation that you're ridin a bike, take a pic and tape to your dash.
  13. MasterGuns
    Since I own both a HD Ultra and a VR, rather than develop a complex like some; I always make it a point while ridin to wave at myself in one of the mirrors.
  14. MasterGuns
    I have an almost brand new set of Cobra's. Were on my 86 for only 4 months. If interested PM me.
  15. MasterGuns
    Wife got me the "Long Way Round" for Xmas. It's on two dvds and is outstanding. Would recommend it to any biker.
  16. MasterGuns
    That's right. Corpsmen assigned to Marine units are more Jarhead than sailors; got a lot of scarlet and gold running through their veins. You know that though.
  17. MasterGuns
    Back in the mid-80's, can't remember exact year, Hutchin's Motor Sports in Yucca Valley sponsored a California 500 and a California 1000 every summer. On one of the Cal 1000's I rode a Harley Davidson 110cc and ended up adding 1118 miles to the bike in under 44 hours. Even though I had a fairly new 86 Venture Royale I took the HD on a dare and bet. The squid that bet I couldn't do it lost 200.00.
  18. MasterGuns
    and everyone followed him at great distance.
  19. MasterGuns
    I'll take it off your hands for a reasonable amount.......how much?
  20. MasterGuns
    There are many parts of Texas where we can run almost that fast legally. Eat your hearts out.
  21. MasterGuns
    Earl, Such a simple solution. I have been kicking around doing the same relocation thing but was turned off by how difficult it could be getting the old TCI out. But this is great. I think I'll even cut the TCI plugs off an old harness I have and use them to plug into the stock mounted TCI. That way I "should" have a spare already mounted, if it ever comes to that.
  22. MasterGuns
    In my opinion, those "new to Texas" burgers don't even come close to Whataburger or even the Belt Buster. Even Carl's Jr has better burgers. But for those of you that are burger lovers, you have just got to try one of the burgers from "The Heart Attack Grill" burger joint located in the West End of Dallas. Bring your statins.
  23. MasterGuns
    I have had several older 1st Gens and two of them ran hotter than they should have. I did all the routine stuff; drained and flushed, checked out the thermostat for proper operation, fuel mixture, etc. etc. One day I removed the radiator on my current 86 that has a 89 motor and held it up to the light to see just how clogged with debris it was, not inside but in between the cooling fins/coils. To my surprise it was about 50% clogged with little rocks, sand, petrified bugs, little piece of wood, whatever. I removed as mush as I could with a 1300 psi pressure washer, and used a modified feeler guage to force the crap out from between the cooling rods. I removed approximately 75%, maybe more of the junk that had been lodged in the radiator probably for years. The more I freed up stuff the better the high pressure washer worked to remove even more. Anyway, when satified I had made substantial improvement, I reinstalled the radiator. I now runs just barely into the green zone; much, much cooler. Worked for me. Take a look see with a flashlight and mirror and see what you can determine. May be worth your time.
  24. MasterGuns
    Nope, that is incorrect. Synthetic oils in fact reduce friction, as well as have better shear qualities, maintain viscosity at higher and lower temps, and the like. But reducing friction is one of synthetic oils main qualities. I was just using an example to assist with this fellas "all of a sudden" starter clutch issues. Like I said, if he would return to regular dino oil, I bet he'd post his aging starter clutch has returned to normal operation. A starter clutch relies on friction between the spragues and the surface of the starter gear. Reduce that friction on an aging unit and you have the exact symptoms being displayed. And it is not a coincidence and would have happened anyway is just inaccurate too. I even played with them exactly as I am advising this gent to do. I drained the Amsoil out of two of them and replaced that oil with non-synthetic stuff and the disengaging noise of the slipping spragues cleared right up. Drained that and put the same Amsoil I had drained out a couple days earlier and the starter clutch slippage returned. Some coincidence, an 86, an 88 and an 89.
  25. MasterGuns
    I have purchased three different 1st Gens in the last four years. Everyone I had to replace the starter clutch and gear BUT only after changing to synthetic or semi-synthetic oils. A slightly worn sprague unit will engage without fail when using regular oil but put in a more slippery (lack of a better description) oil like synthetic or even semi-synthetic, even a slightly worn sprague will act up. Rather than going back to conventional oils, I replaced the starter clutch and gear with new units and problem solved. This is just my experience. Bet you that if you drain that semi-synthetic and go back to regular dino oil, your problem will be solved; maybe not right away but once you eliminate "all" the super slippery synthetic, should clear up.
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