Jump to content

Rocket

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    2,485
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Rocket

  1. First unplug the rear controller unit & plug into the controller feed cable to test. Then try swapping helmets & lower cords in a test, then try swapping lower cords. I would suspect one of these to be the problem, based on the 83 setup. The J & M interface cable set (Amp to headset) is the same for all 1st gens & is still available (last I looked). I have not had a good look at the rear controllers or the controller at the handle bar on the later models.... Is there a rear mic mute setting???????
  2. Rocket

    Hobbies

    Go pond monster watching at Freebirds Maint day........ :rotf:
  3. Yup, need to beat the 2nd genners, to the DQ.............
  4. From DennisKirk.com, EBC Aftermarket rotors, check other sources for the best price.... I installed these last year, on my 83....... Remember to heat the Allen bolt area prior to removal of the old ones (OEM threadlocker) EBC Pro-Lite Left front rotor $166.99 EBC #MD2081LS Part 195214 fits the following machines: 1983 Yamaha XVZ1200TD Venture Royale 1984 Yamaha XVZ1200TD Venture Royale 1985 Yamaha XVZ1200TD Venture Royale 1983 Yamaha XVZ1200T Venture 1984 Yamaha XVZ1200T Venture EBC Pro-Lite Right front rotor $166.99 EBC #MD2081RS Part 195255 fits the following machines: 1983 Yamaha XVZ1200TD Venture Royale 1984 Yamaha XVZ1200TD Venture Royale 1985 Yamaha XVZ1200TD Venture Royale 1983 Yamaha XVZ1200T Venture 1984 Yamaha XVZ1200T Venture EBC Pro-Lite Rear rotor $141.99 EBC #MD2081 Part 195305 fits the following machines: 1983 Yamaha XVZ1200TD Venture Royale 1984 Yamaha XVZ1200TD Venture Royale 1985 Yamaha XVZ1200TD Venture Royale 1983 Yamaha XVZ1200T Venture 1984 Yamaha XVZ1200T Venture
  5. Correct on the mounting points, the lower forks would need to be changed, over to 1st gen Mk2, as well as changing the rotors & calipers. Some may also change, the rear brake setup as well, including the mount. Could be a air bubble at the steering neck or more likely the flex lines need to be changed (bulging under pressure). Remember the recommended sevice life, of the OEM flex lines is 4 years & the Mk1's are over twenty years old. The SS Braided lines is a big improvement, for increasing brake pressure to the calipers, regardless of caliper type / size. The Buckeye SS Braided lines, adds a bleeder at the steering neck for the Mk1's, which was not part of the Mk1 design & added in for the Mk2.
  6. A nice sticky grease, also works well, for holding the gasket in place & no worry about silicone inside the engine. I have been using this trick for years.......
  7. CDN Tire sells similar jacks, the yellow one you posted, is a heavier duty jack & much more stable. Not sure if it will fit the legged model of Carbon1's lift adapter though, with the front wheel spacing. If the yellow one is the same as my CDN Tire one, it can only be locked in one position, but it is very solid. I normally strap the scoot to the lift, have not been able to tip the scoot, front or back (unlike one similar to the red one you posted)...........
  8. If you pull on the throttle & release it, does it snap back to the no throttle position, or does it move slowly??? This can be tested with the engine off... Also were you making any turns with the bike, when the rpms climbed??? As much info as possible, will be helpful, in narrowing down this problem. See this link for the repair manual http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3384 This link is for the parts diagrams (part #s may have changed) http://tinyurl.com/4yt66u These & more can be found here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=13
  9. Rick you were looking at the ignition coils at $55, not the pickup coils, those are $425.
  10. These kits include the clutch lines & middle gear cover gasket too..... I have this installed on my 83 & will be installing it on Friesman1's 85, as well.
  11. Rocket

    Bondo

    The plastex can do that too. I'm going to be using some, to re-build the normal profile on a set of fairings, where they were damaged. But Buddyrich's method should also work, on the ABS plastic.
  12. We stir it very well too, without really trying......... :snow:
  13. Here it is, same fork springs for all 1st gens.......... http://www.oldbikebarn.com/Progressive-Suspension-Front-Fork-Spring-11-1112#5
  14. RPM limiters too, thus much slower. You try taking a 2nd gen in stock form (no ignition mods) up to 7500 - 8000 rpm, see if you can get up there. That is why, the 1st gens are faster & the Mk1 is the fastest of all..................... How many 2nd gens, will still be running down the road after 25 years, like the 1st gens????
  15. Can't resist this one................. :rotfl::rotfl:
  16. I have seen the circulating inline hose type, sized small enough to be fitted into ATVs & possibly heater core hoses. Maybe one of those for the scoot, if there is one with the correct hose size, for between the rear engine head & the rad......... :snow:
  17. Looks like he is already, by even suggesting this, now..... :snow:
  18. Also check all the connections for #2 coil (front left under the battery box), as the tach gets its signal from there. You could have poor / dirty contacts there or at the TCI plug ins. It is best to check connectors for all of the coils, while in there.
  19. Yup, it is +5 C today........:thumbsup2:
  20. Probably Don's pond, unless he can sneak into the hot tub........ :rotf: Both Yammer & Skid will have tents set up by the pond, as I have read on this site.
  21. Yamabond or threebond 1104 (same stuff).... You shouls be able to get it a some bike shops.
  22. Don, that wasn't nice & with this site being down this morning, the effect was compounded for us......... I still shudder at the thought of this site going down......... Your brother doesn't want it???????????
  23. Now we need pics of his ugly mug, along with the new scoot (not a beer mug)........ Or do you think you will break the camera???????
  24. That's when I'm leaving second gear, when having fun cleaning out the carbon...........
  25. You can pull the dash, by going through the headight opening & removing the 2 dash mount retaining bolts. The dash is then is just held in place by 4 locating pins. It may be best to remove the windshield & front signal lights, for easier access when pulling it out & to get side views too.
×
×
  • Create New...