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Showing results for tags 'wire'.
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Putting LED lights in rear crash bar reflectors tomorrow on friends 08 Venture. What wire is the best to tie into once lead is run up under seat or to tail light ? Seen a post in here, that they blinked with turn signals and brake light. Don't want that. Just so they light up.
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i just bought the original radio/cassette player for my 1984 venture but it did not come with a power cord. this cord plugs into the amp and connects the speakers and battery to the unit. does anyone know where i can find one, or find out what each wire does so i can make something up? the plug has 9 connections in a 4-1-4 pattern. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
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yeah, I know been beaten to death. I searched several posts and still can't find the answer. If I were to mount it on the brake side of the bike, I can use an L bracket and tie into a pink and brown wire on 2 relay posts If I were to mount it in the fairing (which is how so far I have chosen to do), one relay post still goes to the pink wire, but not sure about the other wire. If there is a brown wire in the fairing, please let me know where. Any other options? A. Pink horn wire goes to RELAY POST 85. B. Brown horn wire goes to Relay Post 86. C. Connect one end of a wire to Relay Post 30 and the other end to the Hot side,+, of the compressor D. Connect end of your 20 amp Fused line to Relay Post 87 and the other end to the Hot Post,+, of your Battery. E. Connect the negative,-, on compressor to ground or neg,-, post on battery Also I have been reading about the feedback issue. Has anyone that has mounted it in the fairing still had the feedback issue? I am considering getting a seperate button and just wiring it seperately from the stock button if that will eliminate any feedback issue. From what I have understood the closer to the battery you install the fuse, the better off you are. Anyone else have this same understanding? Thanks.
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My 83 Venture fuel gauge suddenly started showing only 1 bar and then none when I'd only traveled about 15 miles after filling up with gas. I removed the two bolts (10mm socket) that hold the seat on and removed the wire leading to the sending unit. I sprayed it with Contact Cleaner and reinstalled the wire, turned the switch on and it showed a full tank. You guys might want to try this fix before removing the sending unit. Ronnie -
Well it started out with a plug fouling (right front). I had been messing with the carbs and after the fouling happened, re-synched them( of course they were off). Figured that was the problem. Put in a new plug and off I went. Happened again. Being on the highway helped keep it clean, but definitely not running great. I figure it's one of two things, a carb problem or a firing problem. The coil and plug wire are easier to check. Plug cap came back within tolerances, primary coil readings were ok but definitely on the high side. Didn't get a needle quiver for the secondary (not looking at the manual, not sure if that's the correct name) test. So I am going to assume that it is the coil or possibly the wire. Anyone else have any thought on this?
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Before anyone asks, yes, I did search the entire site and can't find a darn thing pertaining to this issue. Here goes. I have two good used rectifiers. One is apparently for the 83-85 model and the part number is 26H-81960-A0-00 and the other is for an 86 - 93 (I think anyway) and its part number is 2WR-81960-A0-00. When using the procedure outlined in the Repair Manuals, the procedures both for the 83-85 and the 86 and up refer to a "brown wire". However, the newer model rectifier (2WR) doesn't have a brown wire like the earlier model rectifier. Is there anyone experienced in this area to be able to explain why the 2WR rectifier would not have the brown wire like the Repair Manual states it should. Or am I just going nuts. Any light anyone can provide would be of great assistance.
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The connector is not in a very handy place. I want to move it but am limited by the amount of wire. The wire runs from the connector back up in under the trunk. Anyone know if there's extra cable packed behind the passenger backrest somewhere? If so, how do you get to it? Anyone else repositioned the connector to make it more accessible? -
i was testing my friends horn on a 2000 venture, that was not working , i had to remove it from the mount which also had the battery grd wire attached in same place, went to start the bike and all i got was a sound like a low battery, well like a dummy i discovered i had not reattached the grd wire and was touching the frame but not connected, well i reattached the cable and turned the ignition key and it starts with out hitting the start button i do not know where to start ,, by the way this was an after market horn that had a relay i do not know if that had any thing to due with this problem,, thank ahead of time for the help.,, by the way it is a the yamaha shop and they cannot figure it out yet..
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I just purchased a Signal Dynamics light bar for the back of my scoot. http://signaldynamics.com/products/LightBars/red15ulb_sm.jpg So, where do you wire it into the brake/running lights? Thanks, Bob
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I just bought (and paid way too much for) a Nolan N-42 helmet and installed the basic and bluetooth kit in it. I can't say enough about how well this works. I thought it would be impossible to have my phone connected to my helmet and still be able to use the CB. The CB/intercom is still connected by a wire (had to buy the multimedia wire for the Gold Wing) but it works flawlessly. I can dial the phone with the voice dialing, answer a call, hang it up, and still have the CB hooked up and working. I really didn't think it would be possible to have all this going at once. I don't want a cell phone along on a holiday trip but it's nice when I am commuting... Playing the music through the helmet is pretty tinny but voice from the phone and CB is very clear. Everyone says they can't believe I am on my motorcycle. Can't wait for the BT module to come in for my Yaesu ham radio and see if that works!!
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Two of us have recently bought 2007 Yamaha RSV midnight new from a dealer, we both have the problem with the radio not working, as it does and sometimes it does not come on or shut off as it should? I have a 2000 RSV and I've never had any problems with it. On one of the enteries a while back I can remember it showing a cutaway of wire bundles "3" I think and the article spoke of loose contact? did this apply to the radio?and if so where can I find the article? Thanks "mobile"
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My bike is in the shop for warranty work but plan on wiring an XM radio, the roady 2, once it gets back to me. my question is I want to hard wire it in but have heard that the best idea is to wire it into something that only comes on with the ignition keyed. Any recommendations on what to tap it into?
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Installing a Barons Tachometer on a Royal Star Venture Thanks to Tartan Terror for this excellent article. Installing a Barons tach on a RSV is actually not as difficult as I had anticipated. I did before I started call Barons tech line so that I could clear up any questions I had before I started. I was very glad I did. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image002.jpg I used the Barons Subsonic Mini tach but hook up on all of them are the same. For this model you get a tach, control unit and color change button. I decide to also get the Master Cylinder mount for a clean mount. You can mount yours anywhere you want. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image004.jpg One thing you will have to do is to extend the wiring from the tach if you mount it up on the handlebars. The cable down to the 4 pin connector is too short (Actually tells you this in the directions too) . I added about 8 inches by cutting the connector off and extending the wires. Im a stickler for clean connections for I soldered and covered the connections with heat shrink tubing. I also covered the wires with a wire loom type cover. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image006.jpg Remove the seat and tank as you will need to connect one of the ignition coils. Run the wires neatly to the ignition coil you will see on the right side of the bike just above the dog bone. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image008.jpg Remove the two bolts holding the ignition coil and pull the coil gently out to where you can get to it. In the Tach kit you will see two dividers to put two spade connectors on the coil. Next you will plug in the 4 pin connector. Connect the red wire from the control box to the red wire from the tach (the one in the 3 wire bundle not the 4 pin connector) by crimping them into a single spade connector. Slide this on the extra blade on the Red and Black wire on the coil. Next crimp a blade connector onto the green wire and slide this on the extra blade on the white wire side of the coil. Note: Check connecters before fitting it all together. Make sure the blades slide together. You may need to do a little filing for a good fit. Connect the black wire from the control box and black wire from tach (3 wire bundle). I soldered a short wire extention to these wires and then crimped on a loop connector. This is your ground. I connected this to the rear bolt on the coil holding it to the frame on reinstallation of the coil. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image010.jpg I installed the control box on top of the from with double sided tape. Choose the location for your control button and connect the wires from the button to the wire on the control box. I installed my button on the bars up near the right side controls. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image012.jpg Tuck all the wires out of the way and Reinstall tank and seat. Start bike and test. http://www.venturerider.org/tach/tach_files/image014.jpg Your done now go out and ride it like you stole it.
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My CB started acting up on my 99. THe other evening it worked but I could not hear anyone, but they could hear me. Then it started working again. The next day it seemed to cut in and out on certain bumps. I removed the trunk checked all the connections and still had the problem. Removed front fairing checked all the wires again. I put Dielectric grease on all the connectors, zip tied the cables. Still could not isolate any particular wire as the cause. I even removed the CB and the Main controller (I believe this is what is in the front fairing). Cleaned the ground wire and presently it is working, but have not had a chance to test it on a ride. Did I miss any connectors under the tank ? Anyone have a similar problem ? If so did you fix it and how ? Brad
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...But I could only find 168's. The light bulbs. Will 168's work in place of the 158's? Also, if my dash is still dim, where can I look for possibly a bad ground wire or whatever?
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I have an 87 1st gen. I am trying to wire my bike for a trailer which is a 4 wire trailer. By the battery is my fuse box with brown, blue, red/white > wires. then there is another bundle of wiring that is all grouped > together very tightly. In this group there is white, yellow, pink, blue, brown with a > red line and a couple double colored wires. They are sort of tight > together. Are these the wires I need to splice into for this?--I am trying to wire in a modulite power module. Is there an easier place to splice into near the battery area where there is more room? Thanks for any and all help
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Has anyone had any luck trying to shorten their XM antenna wire? Mine was broken in the accident so I figured I had nothing to lose by cutting it shorter and trying to reconnect but it didn't work out for me. Man that is some fine work for these old eyes. I soldered the main wire in the center, covered it with liquid tape, pulled the shielding back over that and soldered it, then used shrink wrap over the whole splice.
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Just want to relate a few things about the clutch upgrade I just did on my 01 RSV. Instead of replacing the fiber disc's as I have in the past on several bikes I opted to add the extra (it's not really an extra one just a full size disc) remove a couple of washers at the rear of the clutch as well as the wire retainer and install a new and stronger spring. All the information is in the Tech section of this forum. The tension on the clutch lever is a bit more but manageable. Now when the clutch bites it bites a little more than I would like, I don't drag race. The thing that is bothering me the most right now is the engagement point has changed quite a bit, it use to start grabbing about 1/3 of the way out. Not it starts to engage at about the same spot but then releases and doesn't engage until the lever is out to about 2/3's of the travel. Maybe this is something I need to get use to? I'm really thinking about putting the 1/2 disc back in along with the washers and wire retainer but leave the heavy spring in there. I have bleed the brakes just to change the fluid, there was never any air in the system. So for the guys that are running this system, does this sound like the way yours is acting? Jerry
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Well I have a list for sure on maintance day unless I can get some help from around here soon so I can ride with all my goodies. 1. Install tach on master cyclinder and wire up 2. Install luggage rack 3. Hard wire satalite radio 4. Install GPS 5. Install passing lamps 6. Put on highway pegs 7. Install brake pads 8. Rear harley license plate light I am not savey on this stuff so I need all the help I can get. I can learn though.
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Read the thread stating any available brown wire is a switched power wire. I've added the amp and some lights to the fender bolts. Got the tank off and power run to the lovely relays. Now I just need switched power. Tap the headlight wire? Or something convenient? The Yamma instructions for adding lights don't give me a warm fuzzy.
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A friend called with a problem with his 99 RSV. He just replaced the battery and went for a ride, parked all okay. Then went for another ride today and when he stopped and tried to restart the bike it would not crank over, and the trip odometers reset to zero. Waited 10 minutes and it started. The battery measured 12.08 volts. tried to start it and it cranked over very slow and did not start. Voltage dropped to approx. 6 volts and then started clicking. After charging it for a bit it started. Voltage measure 12.08, when we reved it up it would only get to 12.4 We cleaned the ground wire on the engine. SO now what to check ? Manual says to check the stator by checking ohms. Where do you check this ? Do you have to pull the cover ? Where does the wire go to check the ends of the leads ? If this is okay what next bad rectifier ? Can you check this to make sure it is working without replacing it ?Anything else to check would be appreciated ?? Brad
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I went to my local dealer and was told that I cannot buy the black wire tubes that they use on the wiring harness in the factory. Does anybody know where I can get some in different sizes? I cannot find it in all my internet searches? I am not looking for heat shrink tubing or the split loom that is used on most cars. I want my wireing mods to look like they were done in the factory.
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Yesterday as I was driving in town I could smell something Like a wire burning. i thought it might be coming from the car in front of me.Today my Radio has no sound.It comes on and I can change channels the whole works but no sound.Burnt wire or a fuse ? Anyone else ever have this problem ? Bucky Thompson
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I finally finished with replacing the handlebars an cleaning up the wiring inside the fairing from all the electrical mods I've done. Changed the oil in the engine and the final drive. Decided to pour in a can of SeaFoam while I was at it. Started the bike to pump some oil into the filter before checking the final oil level. I let it run a bit to warm up good. It suddenly starting running rough and had a little exhaust popping. First exhaust popping I've heard since plugging the AIS a year and a half ago. When I tried to roll on the throttle real quick, it tried to stall. Then I remembered I had siphoned out most of the gas before I pulled the tank. It was probably running on mostly SeaFoam. I added the 4 gallons I had pulled from the tank back in and run it awhile. No change. Still rough with a little popping. I pulled out the Carbtune. They were off, but not real bad. I synced them and things did smooth out and the popping stopped. I could roll on the throttle without it trying to stall. Sound seemed different and the idle was lower than it was, but she was smooth running. Finished up a few things and went for a ride. Power seemed less than I remembered. I had to add more RPM to find a sweet spot. I seemed to be using more throttle. I was doing 80 and decided to see what she would do... made it to 100, but it was a slow to get there. Put about 50 miles on the bike and pulled into a convenience store. Decided I better buy some lottery tickets... might need them to fix this! When I got off the bike, I felt the cylinders. Both front were hot. Both rear were warm with the right rear being the warmest and the left rear just barely warm. Decided to buy 2 lottery tickets. Rode to work today (35 miles one way). Had to fill up before I got there. 22.75 mpg. Now a lot of that was wasted transferring fuel, idling and hitting the throttle hard a number of times, but that can't account for all of it. When I got home this evening, I pulled the left rear plug wire from the running engine... no affect. Pulled the right rear and the engine ran rough. On the left side, I noticed when I put the plug wire back on, the engine RPM would come up a little for a second or less then fall back off. Did it every time. It was like a little fuel made it into the cylinder while the wire was off and burned it quickly when the wire was put back on. I didn't have my tools out or have an easy way to check for spark on that wire, but from the reaction of the engine when I put it back on the plug, I would say it is firing. I pulled the air box that goes on top of the left side carbs while I was working on the bike. I'll check that to make sure I got it seated back in place and all the hoses replaced like they should be. I'll also make sure I am getting a spark on the left rear. Where do I go from there? I don't know much about carbs, but I guess I can learn with some help. Be this weekend before I can do much, though. What really amazed me was that this bike would push my 375+ pounds up to 100 mph on three cylinders and run smoothly while doing it!
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If anybody knows, could you tell me what is the color code of the hot wire that goes to the rear tail light. My bike is a 2006 Yamaha RSTD. I am going to wire some side lights I have installed into it under the seat. I have found the plug that goes to the tail light, brake light, and signal lights but not sure which is the one for the tail light. Any help would greatly be appreciated. thanks, Jerry
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