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Showing results for tags 'system'.
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A couple of weeks back, I had the water pump inner seal leaking oil into the cooling system (2008 RSV). No problem...took it to the dealer, and they warrantied the entire repair. The tech told me that he flushed the entire cooling system twice. Thanked them kindly, and rode home (approx 50 miles). I got home and pulled the side panel off to insure the dealer did a good job flushing the cooling system....as I suspected, there appears to be a cream-color sludge in the reservoir. I have used radiator flush in cars to clean and flush a car's cooling system. Should the dealer have used a chemical flush to remove the oil from the cooling system? Seems to me, just filling the cooling system, then draining it (twice) isn't going to remove the oily sludge. Your comments would be greatly appreciated...dealer opens on Tuesday...gonna give them an earful..
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Can anyone tell me is there a radiator cap on a 05 RSTD mine seams to be a sealed system as there is a thing that resembles a cap but it wont turn as a normal cap
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I got my engine miss resolved, but now the class system is not working and giving me an E-4 code. Tracked it down to the preasure sensor. Great, how serious can that be ? I mean two screws, one connector, slap a new one on, how simple is that. But NOOOO my sensor is full of oil, great. This can only mean one thing. Oil is leaking from my suspension into my air system I guess I will have to figure out if it coming from the rear or the front. Heres to hoping I can get through the summer with it P/S If anyone has a spare sensor for the class system on an 89, that they are willing to part with let me know.
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Can anyone tell me how I can find out if the intercom system on my '87 Venture works? I want to buy the helmet headset from wingstuff.com but before I do I want to make sure the system on the bike works. Thanks
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Does anybody know if I can link my DROID X through my sound system on my 2006 VRS?
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For those of us in the upper midwest/great lakes region- I noticed Techron brand fuel system cleaner is on sale at Fleet Farm. Ordinarily $5.95/12oz bottle- on sale at $2.50. Be a good time to bulk up on it if you're so inclined...
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i have a 2003 ranger with 106,000 miles, 3 liter v-6. i think the converter is clogged. sears says it's not the converter, it needs to have the fuel system cleaned. it runs great but does'nt seem to have the power it once had. and it has a roaring sound when it gets over 2500 rpm, like it is laboring. could sears be right. they get $150.00 for a complete fuel system cleaning. question is does this really work or is it a waste of money?
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I'm working with a local custom exhaust shop on a collector replacement. It will be two pieces, one for the front/rear left cylinder banks, and another for F/R right cylinders. The original collector acts as a crossover for all cylinders, would my system cause any tuning issues? I will post info and pics as we progress. Thanks, Briley. -
I'm looking at buying an '05 black/rasberry RSTD. Thanks to the bike not currently being in rideable shape, I'm having to figure on putting some not so few bucks into it to getting it back on the road. But I'm also looking ahead. I'd like to put some kind of system on the bike that will enable me to listen to my tunes as well as communicate with my RSV riding buddies. I will not be mounting speakers on the bike, headset use only. I'm trying to see what options are available and if there are other ways to do this than something like the J&M cb/radio system. I've been looking on eBay and seeing what some of the online suppliers have but not having dealt with this kind of set up before [mp3 and a set of earphones while on the Wee Beastie], I'm not sure what would work best. I have been looking for a RSV but if I can get it at the right price, this RSTD might just end up being something of a steal, even with the extra cash I'll have to put into it over and above the purchase price. As always, all help gratefully appreciated!!
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Ok guys my intercom system on 92 1300 seem to have stopped working. cords plugged in can hear it very low, the volume will not come up and when i turn off the intercom its like it has no affect can still hear small amount of volume through the helmet. I just put two new JM lower cables on and still no sound and you can not even talk through the system at all.
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can anyone give me some info on the Shark Audio 600 watts system from gooddeals http://www.gooddeals18.com/product/S...-w-5-spks.html does anyone know if this system is as good as they lead you to believe. Also any info on DC Gold Speakers http://dcgold.com/products/classic-line/n5c/ either the N5C or the N4C. -
This is a very simple system that I just installed on my bike for two reasons. 1. I do not want to remove the seat all the time to charge the battery. 2. I also want a quick system to jump start my motorcycle should the battery go dead on me for any reason and I need to get home. Its nice to have a system on the bike so as one does not have to tear the bike apart to get to the battery connections. I want a fast fix if I am down for any reason. Plan ahead!! Steps 1. Remove the seat so as to access the Battery and the cover for the circuit breakers left side rear of motorcycle. "near battery" 2. Get a large electrical wire or what I did was use electrical wire with three wires inside the rubber covering about 9 inches long. Need large wire to start the starter should it be necessary to jump start the motorcycle. 3. I then got two electrical connectors which would fit on the battery positive post and one that would fit on a 5/16 inch bolt that is one and 3/8 inches long. 4. I then drilled a 5/16 hole on the plastic cover that is behind the battery near the positive post. 5. I crimped the electrical connectors on each end of the wires. 6. I put one connector on the 5/16 inch bolt and put on a nut and tighten the connector to the bolt. 7. I then passed the bolt through the hole that I drilled 5/16 in the plastic and installed lock washer and bolted it to the plastic cover. The bolt is now sticking out about 3/4 of an inch. 8. I then installed the other end to the positive post of the battery and routed the wire where it would not be hitting anything. 9. I then tested the system by placing my battery charger on the motorcycle with the postive lead attached to the 5/16 inch bolt and the negative place on any ground/metal on the motorcycle. 10. The bolt is extremely hard to see with the seat both on or off but it really helps in knowing that you can charge the bike and jump start without removing the seat and etc. If anyone would like to see photos of the system installed write me a e-mail and I will send the photos. Dan4852@aol.com
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I have been using bluetooth headsets for operation of my Yeasu ham radio for about a year. It worked very well but I could not use the same headset with all of the onboard electronics. If I was going to need intercom and CB, I had to switch to a wired system. I got tired of changing headsets on my helmet and decided to integrate all the electronics into one system. Since this upgrade is fairly extensive and will require a lot of disassembly of the bike, I decided to complete a couple other upgrades at the same time. Here are the planned upgrades: 1. Upgrade/replace antennas for CB and Ham Radio 2. Install antenna ground plane to improve antenna operation 3. Install interface for GPS with bluetooth phone and Ham Radio into existing audio system 4. Install fuse block to clean up electrical connections 5. Install LEDs on front half of bike to compliment rear half lighting 6. Install auxiliary LED turn signals for visibility from the sides and off angle I have been collecting the required items for some time. Here is a photo of the interface from Kennedy Technology Group, Inc. http://gallery.me.com/k1oj/100179/IMG_1983/web.jpg?ver=12959141270001/ The antennas and ground plane are out in the garage. I have about 2 weeks to complete this project before I need to use the radio. I will attempt to document this process as I progress. -
If anyone is interested in a cheap tablet, I've been watching the tablet market and wishing for something bigger than my Iphone an cheaper than an Ipad. I may have found it in the form of a Barnes and Noble "Nook Color". It is a$ 249 Android bases e-reader. It has limited web function outbox the box. However, it can be rooted, a term i hadn't heard of before yesterday. The rooting process cracks the operating system to enable the full feature set of an Android tablet. I'm writing this post on it now. It is the same size as the Samsung Galaxie Tab with a 7 inch screen. It lacks the gps and camera and only has a wifi connection. You can download apps from the android market. I am still learning the android system but i think it will do what need/want. If your interested you can check unit out at http://www.bn.com and for rooting info just google "nook rooting" Dennis -
The shuttle is packed and the trailer is loaded. Now to get out of here before the next weather system arrives. Florida, here we come.
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In anticipation of today's ice storm (thank goodness at our house it was not as bad as predicted!) I bought a 1200 watt generator to, if needed, power the natural gas fired central heating system at my son's house. The Coleman system is a 1995, 120VAC system that has no pilot light. To be sure we could count on it, I cut the furnace loose from the house power and hooked it up to the generator. When I turned it on it loaded the little generator, but according to the voltage meter on the generator it held 120 volts. The system ran about 30 seconds and I heard the generator unload. My 1st thought was it tripped the breaker on the generator, but that was not the case. I checked the furnace and the green LED, on the circuit board, was flashing rapidly. There is no code listed for that! I turned the power off to the furnace, waited about 15 seconds and turned it back on. The Green LED came on solid and that the little, what I think is called a purge fan, came on and ran about 20, or so, seconds. I heard the generator load up a little because of what I suspect was the ignitor coming on. This lasted about 5 seconds and then a click which I suspected was the gas valve being activated. With that every stopped and the green LED went to flashing rapidly again. I repeated this a couple of times with the same results. I thought well maybe the generator is not able to keep up and the voltage is dropping too low. It seems just the opposite to be the case. With the click that shuts down the furnace the volt meter on the generator "Jumps" up to about 130 or so. Any Ideas? I have not been able to find a tag that tells me what wattage the furnace should require. I would have thought starting the air handler fan would be the largest hurdle, but I have a similar fan from a long since dead system from our house, which I use as a shop fan in the summer. The little generator starts and runs it just fine.
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Would had posted on the original thread by Skydoc but thought it would be best to start a new one. I have been considering purchasing the anti-dive blocking plates from Skydoc; essentially removing the anti-dives system from my 86. Can't really think of a good reason in doing so otherthan eliminating the needed power they require. Already have the Progressive springs installed. So, I have the following questions. 1) Does the anti-dive system draw any power when the front shocks aren't under an increasing load (diving)? 2) How much power does the anti-dive system draw when the front shocks dive (max draw)? 3) By making the front shocks stiffer which reduces the dive, doesn't that fact alone reduce the amount of juice the anti-dive system draws? 4) And I suppose that by eliminateing the anti-dive system, that doesn't eliminate the ability to use the CLASS up front (increase/decrease air pressure). 5) Last question. As all us 1st Gen owners know, whenever the rear brake is applied, which activates two 1157 stop light bulbs, is when the voltmeter really drops. Whether stopped or moving, activating the rear stop light affects the voltmeter the same. I've installed a couple really good bright 260 degree LED bulbs in the tail light and notice my voltmeter doesn't drop one little bit when activating the rear brake. Having said that, I doubt the anti-dive draws much at all. The question is: Could some convince me that removing the anti-dive is really a good idea? -
This is my first Wing and bike with a audio system. Getting a little nervous riding in the rain. how do these systems hold up to rainy wet conditions. I always cover the bike when i am at work, can you ride in a down pour or do you need to look for cover. Has anyone had problems due to the rain
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I need to pick a brain or two. I have a 98 1500 suburban 5.7 Vortec that I'm having some heating problems with. I had a new radiator, water pump, and thermostat installed early this last summer. I noticed that the radiator cap went on without having to push down on it. So I bought a new cap and the new one did the same thing, and I wasn't getting any pressure build up in the system. So I bent the tabs on the new cap a bit and then I got compression. So now, this what it was doing. Start off in the AM and the guage will run up to 240 degrees before dropping back down to around 160-170. Then slowly rise again to about 210 and then back down, finally settling in at about 190. I'm suspecting a screwed up thermostat. Also... it had that orange coolant in the system. Actually the coolant looked clear but the cr@p floating around in the system plugging everyting up looked like rust/orange. Anyway I digress. So I took the car down to a good mechanic and they flushed the sytstem, put in fresh 'green' coolant, and installed a new HD 195 thermostat. Not an 'el cheepo' but a good one. The one that came out was caked with the orange stuff. Ugly. Now this is what it's doing. It still heats up and drops back down, but not as high a temp as before, but the bottem temp is the same. Fresh coolant, new thermostat, clean system. It's still acting like a bad thermostat. Now I'm thinking. Could the sensor be bad, and sending signals to the computor, and the CU is retarding/advancing the timing and causing the problem??? Any ideas??
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I was having problems with my audio system, 2008 venture, responding to the commands that I would punch in on the control located on the handle bars. It got progressively worst until one day it went totally out. The bike is under warranty so I took it to the Yamaha dealer where I purchased it. It should be noted that I found that people working on the audio system are really not educated on how it works and how to troubleshoot the system. Its change black boxes so to speak. So they tried the new control and that did not work. So they were on the phone with Yamaha techs for hours talking about what to do next. They took the front fairing off and found that the wires going to fuel tank for the intercom (rider) were all cut up. The wires had been routed wrong and got into the steering area and slowly were being smashed and cut to pieces by steering the bike. They ordered a new harness for the headset and installed same. The problem was still NOT repaired. Again on the phone with Yamaha techs and yamaha sent in a new amp that is located under the front fairing. That took care of the problem. The system now works great and responds immediately to the commands. This whole event took about two months to get worked out driving back and forth. In short everyone should remove their front fairing and take tie ties and really look at how their wiring is being run to prevent this from happening. I did write a letter to Yamaha about the routing of the wiring under the fairing and what had happen. I believe that the wires being cut on the headset cord shorted out the AMP blowing same. It only took two months and about 400 miles of riding back and forth waiting for parts and etc. I would also like to note that there are TWO fuses in the audio system. One fuse is in the battery compartment and the other is behind the RIGHT UNDER COVER. So if your having audio problems be sure to check both fuses. I hope that this will help someone. Please check all the wires running under the front fairing. It could prevent you from having the same problem. Yamaha techs also advised that the connections on the amp, which are many work loose so be sure to check them as well. Good Luck, DanC
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Do they make an adapter cord that will go from a standard earplug connector that go to the AUX jack of my '99??? Male on both ends. It's probably the same one everyone else is using to plug in their IPods into the system, and if it is, where do I find one??
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Hi Guys, Does anyone know of a nice replacement radio for the old unit. Mine is not working in my 84. I just can't see spending all the time and money to try to chase down, repair and or replace this old system with more old parts. Doesn't anyone make a nice motorcyle sterio system with an intercom that can be retrofit into the bike????? Thanks for any ideas John
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Ok I have a situation with my charging system. Let me see if I can properly explain the problem. Recently I replaced the voltage regulator with one from electrosport. This is what my system is doing. while riding home from work at night I can see the head light, passing lights, and tail and running lights fade like they are only on battery, and then with in 3 seconds brighten back up to normal charging. it oscillates like this mainly at least as far as I can tell at higher speeds and in top gear. Does anyone think that this is just a bad regulator or my stator going bad? Please help! Jet man
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I have two different problems on my 2005 RSV. 1. When I plug my MP3 Player into the Aux Jack it seems that something inside is loose and I loose the connection. If I jiggle the wire a bit I get the connection back. Bumps also effect the connection. How do I tighten things up inside of the Aux Jack ? 2.Separate from that my entire sound systems locks up every now and then and I have to shut it down and turn it back on to unlock. At the same time my transmit button sticks on the CB and stops the system form working. I sprayed in electric contact spray and that stopped the PTT button problem but the system still locks up every now and then. I do have my Garmin Street Pilot III hooked up to the sound system inside of the fairing but dont remember if the system locked up or not before that.
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For years I've been interested in Geothermal units. We bit the bullet and are in the process of having it installed. Last week they drilled three 175 foot wells. This week they bored into our basement with the main line and hooked the three wells together. Next week the Geo unit goes in. It has been fun to watch each step. The best news is we get a 30 percent tax credit and to a 20 percent rebate from our utility company! We are saving 1/2. People ask what our payback will be - well, our old system needed to be upgraded so for almost the cost of a conventional heat system we have Geothermal.
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