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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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Greeting all! I am having an intermitant problem with my turn signals. They do not work most of the time. After about a 45 minute rid, they will start to work. I have taken the switch apart and cleaned with contact cleaner. The hazard switch has been removed, sprayed with contact cleaner and replaced. These function the same as the blinkers. They work as running lights, just no blinker. I also sprayed down the connector for the blinkers. Could it be the realay? I use turn signals ALL the time, even if no traffic around. This is just a habit I got into. Thanks for any suggestions. Dave
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Well, my key was pretty hot today when I turned off my bike. Although my thermometer did say it was 97 out (in the shade), and I was riding for ~4-5 hours or so... In the sun. So, while I don't think I am having premature switch issues, I just figured it was time that I come up with a quick and easy bypass. I know that there is a write up for doing this and cutting the wires on the bike to wire up the bypass for when it fails (and I will probably do this if absolutely necessary), but what I would like to do is get a plug and play setup going, so all I have to do is unplug my faulty ignition switch and plug in my bypass (using the existing wiring). I have also considered dismantling my current ignition switch for inspection and cleaning - as an attempt at a preventative measure. Question: Does anyone have an old ignition switch (failed or not, I don't care) that you wouldn't mind sending me? Either the whole switch or snip the wires as close to the switch as possible (so I have a decent length going to the plug-in connectors left over). I'll pay shipping (obviously). Thanks in advance!! : ) - Rick -
This may have been posted here but I am trying to bid on one and I need to know if the ignition switch out of an 84 will fit and 88 venture. I also need to know if I can get the tumblers out of the new switch without the key. There is no key for the switch I am trying to buy and I want to put my old key back in so they are still keyed right.
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Noticed the other day my ignition switch was very hot at the end of a ride. When I pulled my key out the key was very hot to the touch. I don’t have passing lamps and have never had this problem. Any thoughts?
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I mentioned I was having a problem with my cruise control, when at the meet and eat in talbot ville last saturday (24th). Great bunch. Sorry, I'm bad with names they will come later. They mentioned the clutch lever. Right on, the second switch was still ingaged. Thanks. Weather held, even got in a small ride. Thanks again Mark
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Does anyone know if it's possible to deactivate the crusie control "bump" switch? In other words, to keep the cruise control from automatically disengaging when hitting a large bump in the road. I realize this is a safety feature, but after installing a sidecar to my 2005 RSV, the extra movement from the hack, as well as the lovely roads here in NJ, cause my cruise control to disengage much more easily than when I was on 2 wheels. I'm hoping someone has an answer as I really miss being able to use cruise on the highway. Thanks in advance for any insight!!! Rob
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I've added a few accesories to my '06 RSTD. (Disregard picture date stamps) The first picture is Baron Sub Sonic Tach. I did not have to lengthen any wires to install. Second picture shows the Kuryakyn LED voltage meter. Following the advise of past posts here, I ran a dedicated (#16) wire from my relay contact to the meter. I wired the coil of the relay to the RSTD supplied accessory wiring lead (under seat), so the relay is made when the ignition switch is in "ACC" position. Meter shows one green light with the engine off and two green lights with the engine on - passing lamps on or off. Third picture is a Garmin Zumo and a clutch side switch from www.BigBikeParts.com . The switch came with three toggle switches. I removed the center one, enlarged the hole and added a www.Powerlet.net socket. Powerlet also supplied the plug to the Zumo. The Dealer had installed the Passing Lamps as part of my negotiations. I removed their crappy wiring and useless lamp mounted toggle switch. Rewired to the 1st toggle switch of clutch side switch (2nd toggle for "Future"). Power for this switch is from the same relay as volt meter with a dedicated #14 wire feed. Now my headlight and passing lamps are on different fuses. Forth picture shows Garmin Zumo and Clearview windshield. The red button on the Garmin mount is to toggle the Tach's LED light colors. Fifth picture is a Powerlet socket mounted to the plastic cover. It is wired in parallel with the clutch side switch off of the relay. Sixth picture is the Garmin mount removed. Seventh picture is of two Powerlet sockets mounted on left side in front of saddle bag. These are wired direct (fused) to the battery. Plug the Battery Tender Jr. in here with Powerlet supplied adapter. If I ever get any heated riding gear, I've got a plug. Last picture is under the seat showing Powerlet fuses and added relay. I like these Powerlet (BMW style) plugs. They are smaller than a cigarette plug and carry more current. I think they will become the standard for motorcycles. In the mean time, I have a Powerlet to cigarette plug adapter.
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Ok, I have a problem. I go out today to go for a ride. Turn the ignition on, press the starter button, and nothing happens. The starter won't even click. When I rode last week, it was fine. I ended up working 70 hours this week and today was the first time i've been able to take it out. So, can someone tell me how to determine what the problem is. If it's the starter button itself or something between there and the starter. I thought the battery so I charged it up and still nothing. Thanks guys for the help.
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I have an 87 VR. The front brake light switch is broken (plunger stuck in), which means my cruise won't work either. The switch is one assembly with the harness that goes behind the headlight. Do any of you parts-bike-dudes have a spare assembly you'd sell me? Thanks, Jeremy -
I've read a lot on just about everything here. Have received a ton of info and appreciated it all. Made a lot of upgrade decisions and changes from all the info here. All has been great. Put on some Baron Risers over the past couple of weeks along with some other upgrades which I'll write about later. My question is, I have no problem with my cable lengths and the risers but, the risers hit the black plastic switch cover prior to the stops. Does anyone else have this issue and if so, what if anything have you done to correct it. Thanks
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What's normal for Hwy riding at about 120 to 130 kph before using reserve? I've been getting about 220...then have to switch to reserve.
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how do you get the sidestand switch top bolt out. got the bottom bolt out and have a new switch to go in, but having trouble with the top bolt removal. i can not even see it. -
I need some advice from an electrical guru. I am trying to put passing lights on my 2001 RSV. I want to use a relay however the passing lights are for a Road Star. In the alternate wiring diagram the power goes from the positive side of the battery through a fuse to #30 on the relay. From there the power goes from #87 to the positive side of the passing lights. #85 on the relay goes to ground and #86 goes through a switch and is connected to one of the 3 wires going to the headlight. Red with a yellow strip if I want the passing lights on all the time (as I do). My headlight does not have a red with a yellow strip wire. Problem #2. My passing lights have a switch built into the left passing light and the power (positive) goes through the switch. The right passing light has a red wire with a yellow strip. The left passing light has a red wire with a yellow strip and a plain red wire. I have connected the red wires with a yellow strip together with a wire running between the two lights. The left passing light has the red wire and the red wire with a yellow strip both connected to the switch. I have connected the red wire to another red wire that will go to the relay. The alternate wiring diagram shows the switch on the negative side. Is there anyway to connect the relay show that the switch is on the positive side. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Harry
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my turnsignals seem to have a mind of their own. some times they work, some times they dont, the hazard switch works when the signals work. seems to me, that something with the self cancel is buggering up. is there a way to delete, bypass, remove this feature, and just have the signals work from the switch? ive ridden for years, and its habit to cancel them myself anyway, id rather just have em work when i want em to. any help??
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Anybody have an extra gear position indicator switch they want to part with? And how much you want for it? Need one for my 84. All I have is one for an 83. Thanks, Bill -
I have found a 1996 Royal Star with 14,157 miles for $2500 that needs work. the chrome has some pitting ,nothing bad. Will need front tire, they lost the key so they broke the ignition switch, and it needs a new battery. I have not seen or heard it run and don't want to take a 5hr ride for nothing sow my question is is it worth it? http://i.ebayimg.com/24/!BmHR-v!BGk~$(KGrHqEH-D0EtrQGqcPOBLebCn77RQ~~_12.JPG http://i.ebayimg.com/14/!BmHR6LQBGk~$(KGrHqIH-DYEtqb5TnD)BLebCd(L8!~~_12.JPG http://i.ebayimg.com/16/!BmHRutwBGk~$(KGrHqUH-DcEtvJ5qQ20BLebB+0f6g~~_12.JPG
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anyone with advice on how to remove the main switch on a 08 venture for replacement key to be made? i dont see any quick and painless diagram in the manual that relates directly with this.
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Why most of you Die Hard 2nd generation switch to the Goldwing???
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90 venture high beam will not work. when hi beam switch is pressed, the headlight lamp on dash lites up, and the entire dash dims. Checked the headlight bulb and it is good. Where do we go from here? Could it be the switch itself? Its my cousin's bike, and he's trying to get it registered in San Antonio. Bought the bike in Indiana, and it was delivered to him. Thanks for any help/advice in solving this issue. If anyone lives near Mico Texas, and can help that would be cool. Its his first bike, so he's a bit at a loss here.
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Is there away to by pass the neutarl switch. Drove the bike today only went 1 mile. I shut it off then it would not start. The neutral light stays on no matter what gear. After trying to shift it to find neutral the light went dim when pulling the clutch in. Then after a few trys it started.Also when i put up the kick stand up the n. light went off. Im guessing its the switch. The bike started everyday this winter with no problem.
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Whoever installed the passing lights on my '99 RSV tied them in to the yellow (High beam) wire right at the headlight. I have cured that by installing a relay which is turned on and off by the R/Y wire for the headlight. What I'm also wanting to do is add a second relay for the headlight. This way none of the lighting load is going through the ignition switch. This would also enable me to put an "emergency lighting" switch in the circuit which would allow the headlight to work, completely independent from the bike's circuits. My question here is what color wire runs to the dimmer switch? In the circuit pictured, there should be a red wire with a yellow tracer. I found the R/Y wire which powers the headlight, but it goes into a plug only to come out the other side as a solid blue wire. I want to find and cut into the wire where the arrow points. once I cut it I would attach the top cut to the output (terminal 87) of the relay and the wire on the bottom of the cut would then hook to the terminal 85 or 86 on the relay. So, where in the real world harness do I make this cut?
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I received the following notification from the host of our chat rooms. We are planning to switch your chat host DNS(host8/host718) tomorrow. The whole process has been scheduled as described below: SCHEDULE DNS switch Time(CST):11:00 pm, 11th, Jan.,2010 PURPOSE Due to the instability of servers from the current ISP, we have decided to change our ISP to enhance the chat performance. IMPACT to you It usually takes up to 24 hours before all the DNS servers worldwide take effect and during this period, some of your chatters may resolve to our old server and some may use the new one.So there may exist some communication problems during this time.
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When I bought my 2009 Venture about a week ago...I went ahead and paid for passing lights and a luggage rack on the trunk... I assume there is nothing they can really mess up on the luggage rack, but I am a little concerned about the passing lights. I don't want to do it myself, but I would like to "know what I am talking about" when I tell them how I want them mounted. My questions are: 1) Would it be better to have them on a relay? and 2) what type of switch should I ask for and where should it be mounted? I searched and saw that some have it mounted next to the 12 volt auxiliary plug. Any tips? Thanks, Wally
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I was just thinking. (you say uh-oh)Since the standard on-off switch for the auxillary lights is so dinky, has anyone ever tried using the cruise control on-off switch under the cassette player to turn on and off any auxillary lighting you might have installed? You'd have to bypass the switch for the cruise, but I leave that switched on all the time anyway. It sure would be easier to reach than under the fairing by the aux outlet.
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:think:Has anyone seen or tried these slip ons, just got a mess of catalogs and this was something that made me say Hmmmmm...but they sure are costly but to have Mama mode at the flick of a switch would be cool http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product.jcw?nval=0&statenval=0&shopid=100001&productId=2012075&pageid=12&errorView=Y&selectedmmy=200002434+2007&_requestid=1830615
