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Showing results for tags 'speed'.
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During the time my 02 Midnight was under warranty it would lose the cruise whenever I hit a hard bump. It would have to be turned off then back on and then be reset to speed. Now that it is out of warranty it hardly takes any bump at all without going out. I've looked through all 57 pages of post and did not see anyone mention this paticular problem with their cruise. Has it happened? What should I look ford? It is not a brake or clutch relay. If it was I could just reset the speed. It goes off and the dash lights begin blinking.
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I was just curious how fast or slow a RSTD runs a 1/4 mile and Speed. It sure feels slow compared to my FJR.
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Riding into work today, my '88 Venture Royale suddenly lost it's tachometer reading, mostly. It comes on occasionally. At the same time, the engine kind of lost control of it's speed, at least it would rev up and down with the throttle held at the same place. Made it very scary to corner, not knowing it would keep a steady speed. Any ideas on what is wrong? The cruise was off. The charging system is OK. There's gas in it - not full, but should be enough, so it shouldn't be surging the gas tank, though it felt a little like other bikes have when the fuel is about to cut out. Fuel Pump? Some kind of ignition problem? I'm not sure it's safe to ride home, even though it's only a few miles. Does the tachometer get it's signal from some component that controls fuel or spark? Becky -
OK you guys have gotten my curiosity up. How many speedbleaders do I need to do my whole bike? It is an 87 VR? Thanks, Kevin -
Question re: 2nd Gen Speed Bleeders
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Need to know what size/part number for 2nd Generation Speed Bleeders and how many of each for: 2nd Gen Brakes... 2nd Gen Clutch... Thanks in advance!!! -
Now this is interesting. Wizard765 and I both had new Avons put on the rear of our scoot this spring. Wayne also had a new front tire mounted. The bike shop did the mounting and balancing. While riding at normal cruising speed of 90 to 110 kph all is well. It's when we get to 120 to 140 kpm that we both experince the same interesting problem. The bikes start to waddle, now notice I said WADDLE not wobble. It's not the same as with loose steering head bearings, I've had that as well and fixed it. This seems to be coming more from the back than from the front. The bike reacts as though it's being buffeted from riding behind a truck, but real steady. The tire is mounted correctly in the proper direction and runs true on the center stand. Pressure is at 42 lbs. Last night I tightened the steering head a little, now no bounce, and it improved somewhat at 120 kph, but at 140 it was not pretty and at 160 it was downright scary, but it didn't develope at all, if I held the speed steady the waddle didn't get worse and disappeared slowly as I slowed down. Any ideas?
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Greetings... This started happening about 1 month ago. It has gotten progressively worse - to this point: Facts: #1 & #2 carbs were out of sync because I played with the Sync screw thinking it was the idle speed screw. Finally Synced them, and played with the idle speed screw. A week Ago - It WOULD Idle at 1000 rpm when warm. It hasn't been run since last friday - It's now Wednesday. Over the summer - The cotten-wood trees have deposited a hideous amount of Fuzz that has been a real pain. It gets everywhere... It rained 2 days ago, and the bike was outside, uncovered. - Today was a rather nice day - I went out to go for a ride this morning, and basicly spent the entire day attempting to actualy get the bike (89 VR) running... Symptoms: It will now - NOT idle at anything less than 1500 rpm. At Idle (like at a light) there is an audible 'click' Where the tach will drop to 0 rpm, the bike will chug slower and slower - then eventualy, (if the throttle isn't blipped) Die... When it is running - It runs well! There is NO problem at any speed above Idle. The Tach will NOT register anything less than about 1500rpm. In other words - I have to keep the idle set a bit high, because it will just die - the tach just drops to 0 if I set it to less than that. What can cause this? Today I tore off the entire fairing, and checked all the wiring, all vacume tubes, spark plugs, etc... I synced the carbs - and finally got it running. It ran well - a lot more pep than it was doing a week ago - but every time I came to a light - it would idle at 1500, then - an audible click - and it would suddenly drop to 0 on the tach and a few seconds later - it would sputter out and die. It starts, as long as I REV it when it catches... But it won't idle correctly. I can play with the idle screw all I want - but If I adjust it down to normal idle - all the above is guarenteed to happen. So what can cause this? -
A Dallas woman has broken the land speed record on an open motorcycle. She broke 209 miles per hour. http://cbs11tv.com/sports/land.speed.record.2.807948.html
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I hope some of you can help me pinpoint a problem I have with my audio system on my Venture. On a long ride to Yosemite while listening to the radio suddenly the sound would fade away when I was increasing speed and as soon I would let go of the throttle it would return. This problem has since continued. So when I take off it drops the sound as I go through the gears, once I am at cruising speed it is fine since I do not move the trottle much. ****ting down does not affect it. Interesting enough it does not happen to the speakers - only to my headsets. I have tried two different headsets and both have same issue so I assume that it is not the headsets. Also it does it in aux (GPS) and radio. Have not tried the cassette yet. Anyway, any idea what the issue is and how it can be fixed. Appreciate it. Thanks.
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I understand that the idle speed should be set to 1000 RPM. Other than not stalling, is there a reason for this? Suggestions on an inexpensive tachometer to but to set this the RPM, been doing it by ear Thanks
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As big as the front tire is on these bikes does the front tire tend to hydroplane when you hit a puddle on the highway at speed? I used to ride a Vstar and it would send the water out like a speed boat with any sign of hydroplaning.
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got a wobble at low speed with no hands on, speed up 40 no wobble Help.
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I just wanted to let everyone here know that I have my Garmin 450 on Ebay. Just like the posting says, it's in perfect condition, used last spring break on a 1000mi San Francisco trip and a few times in the car around town. The unit also comes with a car kit with car power chord, and a 2gb Sandisk high speed SD card. If anyone has any questions please let me know. Item # is :160265176054 Link (I hope) is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160265176054&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:US:1123.
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Not sure if it's my motocross experience.......or my auto mechanics training that puts me "at one with my machine"......but I'm always surprised by the number of folks who are not aware that almost any non-automatic vehicle can be shifted from one gear to the next WITHOUT using the clutch. Virtually all motocrosser transmissions are built to be abused and anyone who hopes to cross the finishline first NEVER uses the clutch to get from one gear to another. It's bang up....and bang down. Simply back off the gas........and kick it.......And it works! Guess what? It also works on street bikes. Even big ones like Ventures. You just don't want to be doing it at "racing" throttle settings. If you're accelerating moderately, as the 'responsible' Venture Rider that you are......you'll find that you can up-shift from 1st all the way to 5th, without pulling your left hand in once. (You WILL find it's a little easier in the 'higher' gears than in first and second.) Just roll on the throttle slowly, and when you've reached 'optimal' RPM's in the gear you're in, start to put the slightest pressure on the heal/upshift portion of your gear lever as you simultaneously back off the throttle. Suddenly, as an almost imperceptably "synchronous" act of god, the transmission will smoothly snick itself into the next higher gear. This happens at the exact moment your road speed, transmission speed and crank speed are in perfect "harmony". It sounds tricky, but if you haven't tried it, give it a shot. After a little practice, it'll become second nature....and feel like it's the way your bike WANTS to be shifted. You can do it at all speeds providing you are not heavy handed on the throttle. (Great when you're adjusting the radio, or holding hands with Honey behind your back.) When you're out on a cross country trip, with 50 miles between stops, shifting isn't such a big chore. But if you're running across town, with forty-five lights to negotiate, you can save a helluva lot of "clutching" by adopting this "one hand" gear shifting method. Down-shifting doesn't really work out all that well, (unless you're amazing at double tapping the shifter and double twisting your throttle!), but with just a little bit of practice, you'll be saving a whole lotta left hand work on all those upshifts. Try it. You'll like it. Look ma......one hand!
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Has anyone here done a linked brakes modification? Any observations or comments? Does it cause problems in slow speed handling (I am used to back brake only at low speed)? Does it make the pedal feel spungy due to the additional piping?
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Maybe I expected more but my DSL runs like a snail. It's better then dial up most of the time. We switched when it became available about 18 months ago. It's 5:00 am and it's running at full speed 1250 KB upload 325 KB download. Thats not screaming but compared to 56 K its fast. At least we can run multiple machines now.I notice of an evening after work it starts slowing down 800K,600K 400k 225k are the norms every day. Sometimes it drops to 75K upload and about 25k download. This really ticks me off. It's not the kids hogging the bandwidth on the other machines either. I can put up with rebooting the speed stream router twice everyday when my wireless connection drops. Thats on my route to the coffee pot anyway. I can even tolerate a total DSL outage for 48 hours twice a month because storms went through the southen part of the state 100 miles south of me ( we didn't get any). I have called tech support more times then I can remember and it's the same thing. They issue a ticket number some computer tweeker checks it from his office and nobody comes to the field.I would like to see them replace the router and at least admit that someone else has this problem with slow speeds but no luck. We live 12 miles from the C/O so maybe I'm on the outer limits being in a rural area? The only thing running fast (always on time) is that $45 a month bill.
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I had a full feature Cruise Control on a previous BMW touring bike. I have a Throttle Rocker and Vista Throttle lock on my 84 Venture now. Has anyone adapted a speed variable cruise control to their bike? If so, what kind?
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Help, I am at an end point with making a axle for a pull behind trailer. I am using flexride torsion axles. Has anyone used these and have they had any problems with these. I have a hi speed shimmy and can't seem to correct this. Thanks
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The one thing that throughs me a bit when I get my 89 VR after riding one of my other bikes is how at low speed manuvering the feeback from the handlebars feels very squishy. In fact if you have the bike on the center stand and wobble the handlebars as if they were going into a tankslapper you can really feel the movement in the hanelbars vs the wheel. My understanding is that it is the rubber mounting of the handlebars but it seems to be a bit too much in my opinion. Do you guys have the same feel? Have you jsut got used to it or can it be modified? thanks all Bob -
i work with a guy, who just bought a mid/late 90'svirago-1100. he says that at hiway speed, it sounds as if the valves are clattering,but not noticeable at any other speed. bike has 5600, miles on it. i wouldn't think the valve train, would make a racket, with these few miles on it. anyone able to help me out on this one? just jt
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When I am riding solo with no one to talk with, my brain starts to limber up and tries to escape. Sometimes all that thinking can be dangerous! On my way home from Don's this week it seemed to me I was getting particularly poor mileage, so I was doing a lot of thinking about it and thought I'd share with y'all. This is gonna be long - I had 3,000 miles to think on this trip! Things that affect fuel mileage, in no particular order (some more obvious than others): How full you fill your tank* Tire pressure Tire size, style, and composition Engine condition Primary and secondary electrical circuits Temperature of the gas when you fill up Temperature of the air Humidity Altitude and barometric pressure Gasohol (but NOT octane) Riding style, location, and terrain SPEED Winds Add-on miracle gadgets from late night TV commercials (I am sure I missed something here) Number 1 doesn't really change fuel mileage, of course, but it sure can throw off your calculation, especially with a small tank. For example, filling up with 5 gallons of gas after going 180 miles will give you 36 MPG (close to my average). But if you happen to squeeze 5.29 gallons of gas into the same tank, your calculated mileage would only be 34 MPG, and if you stop just a little short at only 4.73 gallons, you would be "enjoying" 38 MPG. So less than 1/3 of a gallon difference in our fill-ups makes more than a 5% change in the calculated MPG. Quite a significant change. The trick, of course, is to ensure you fill that tank to exactly the same level every time, and that is not easy. And if you have not vented the filler neck it is REALLY hard if you are trying to get it as full as you can to go longer between stops. I know when I am dinking around with the hose at the top of the tank trying to get the amount to stop exactly on even digits (such as $18.11 or $18.22, etc.) that I can easily put in more than 1/3 of a gallon more than where I already thought was a full tank. That is why I think it is so important to check mileage all the time if you are going to report it or compare with others - just a tank or two is not accurate to me. Tires - they affect mileage by how hard they are to roll. But I really have no idea how big a difference they make in actual calculated MPG, so I won't dwell on them here. Simply said, the more air in them, the harder they are, and the easier they are to roll. In addition, different rubber compounds and tire construction can change the way they flex and make rolling harder or easier. Even so, I tend to dismiss tires as not being a significant part of the MPG equation, but I'd like to hear from anyone who has more information and thinks they are significant. Engine condition is a biggie. If it is not running right for any reason, you get very bad mileage. If you engine is wearing out and your compression is dropping, it may still run fine, but your mileage will suffer a lot. Miss-adjusted or burned valves will kill you (figuratively speaking). Timing being off, fouled plugs, dirty carbs, etc. are all bad (note that the timing on the RSV is not adjustable). The electrical system on the bike can have a noticeable affect, but problems are not common. The primary and secondary circuits refer to the ignition circuit before and after the coils. In short, if you have a weak spark, you may not be getting full and consistent ignition of the fuel, thus causing poor mileage. Temperature of the fuel when you fill up is a big impact, but nothing you can control - just know that it can change the actual MPG by around 5%. Everything expands with heat, and fuel pumps only have to be accurate when the fuel is about 65 degrees (going from memory here). In the summer the fuel is warmer, so 1 gallon takes up more space. That means when the pump says it gave you 1 gallon, you really got less! It does not help filling up in the mornings, since the air temperature has little to do with the temperature of the fuel in the underground tanks. But the WORST time to fill up is in the summer during or right after a tanker has delivered fuel, since the fuel in the tanker is going to be a lot warmer than the fuel that has been underground for a day. Temperature and humidity affect the fuel mixture and combustion qualities of the mixture. Cold air is more dense; therefore, you get a leaner mix. Water compresses much less than air, so it not only affects the mixture, but the way it burns too. But frankly I do not know how significant these affects actually are. Probably not much. Air at altitude is thinner, so you run richer (less air to the same amount of gas) and get worse fuel mileage. The change can be significant in both MPG and power, but I don't know the percentages off hand. You may not know that changing barometric pressure is just like changing altitude. A storm coming in gives you the same affect as going up in altitude. Gasohol at any % is simply a curse from the bureaucrats! Alcohol has less energy than an equal volume of gasoline, so mixing any of it in your gas makes the same volume less powerful and you will burn more to do the same work. Curses!!! Octane, however, has no impact. Do not waste your money putting in any higher octane than your engine needs to not detonate (knock or ping). The RSV is specifically built to run on regular. Your individual riding style, including how much weight is on your bike, stop and go, steady speeds, hills, etc. all have a huge effect on your MPG. The faster you accelerate, the more you have to use your brakes, the more weight you carry all take a big toll on your mileage. Maybe hills don't have that much of an impact, since you gain back on the downhill side what you lost going up. I put speed and wind near the bottom of this list for a reason - they are quite similar and have the single biggest impact on MPG beyond something being wrong with your bike. I know for a fact that my Ventures and my riding style generally average 36.5 MPG combining around town riding and most highway speeds. But if I burn a tank at an indicated 80 MPH (actual 73 MPH) I will loose 3 - 5 miles per gallon. Conversely, just keeping it under 50 MPH for a tank, like riding the twisties in the Ozarks, will easily add 5 miles per gallon. The biggest part of that change is wind drag on the bike. So a 20 MPH change in average speed can swing the mileage by close to 10 MPG! Now realize that riding into a 20 MPH wind is even worse, since the impact of wind resistance is not a straight line - more logarithmic, meaning each additional mile per hour of speed has much more drag the one before it. Quartering headwinds are almost as bad. Tail winds, of course, are wonderful things. The last thing I am going to mention here are the miracle cures that you can find in any auto parts store, catalog, and late night TV commercials. EVERY ONE OF THEM IS GARBAGE!!! The only way any of those things can improve your gas mileage is to lighten your weight by taking away your money. Nuff said. I don't know if any of that will be of value to anyone (and I'm sure there is liable to be a lot of disagreement somewhere), but what the hey - thought I'd type it all in anyway. Ride safe all, and I hope your gas prices stay low! Goose
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Bought a 1986 Venture around two months ago. So far all I have done is some local riding one up for the most part. Welp, it did it's first good sized ride two up this past weekend. The wife and I went a ways up the Blue Ridge Parkway and did some camping up on Mt Mitchell. Worked like a top I must say but I do have a couple of questions the first being a very low speed wobble/sensitivity when loaded up. I know it was due to the extra weight {we were loaded up fairly heavily} and having a passenger but still,,,, very low speed stuff was irritating/scary. The second gripe was a fairly low cruising range. The bike seemed to average right around 35mpg over a few tanks and I know that seems low but I was riding loaded down with camping gear and a passenger and it was curvy mountain roads. Anyway, seems the "E" flashes {fuel bars disappear} right around 150 miles. The manual states the fuel capacity is 5.5 gallons but even with the gage stating empty for quite some time {very nervous times at that} I could only get around 4-4.5 gallons in the tank. Heck,,, my FJR can easily go 250 miles and as much as 280 miles between fill ups. Even my DR650 will do around 180-200 miles. You would think that a "touring" bike would have more range but then again,,,,, it is a 22 year old touring bike.
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Is it just me or is the site running much slower on the new server?
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After installing my new GPS unit earlier. I am noticing that my speedometer is out a bit from my actual speed as calculated by my GPS. I have heard that the GPS units are incredibly accurate. My '06 RSTD seems to be out on the high side. When my speedometer reads 120, my actual speed from GPS is 112. This can't be designed on purpose, so in that case, is there a fix?
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I bought the speed bleeders for the brakes and clutch. I have a 04. Anyway I must have done it wrong when I first drained all the fluid out of the clutch before I put the new speed bleeder on. After I did that, I filled the reservoir up and tried pumping the clutch handle with the speed bleeder cracked a half or full turn and nothing happens. What did I do wrong?
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