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Showing results for tags 'screw'.
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Question 1) I'm needing 1 Enricher/Choke for my MK2 and ebay has some but they came off an MK1. Are they the same and is $25.oo a reasonable price. Question 2) The outside tip broke off on mine (I purchased the VR that way). I was thinking of drilling a small hole and putting a brass screw so the choke would pull it out. Is that something that would be recommended? -
I have been working on my leaking clutch slave all summer. Made the mistake of "having" to have speed bleeders on my clutch slave. That lead to a sheared off bleeder screw, replacement of clutch slave entirely. Now I put on the new clutch slave with the bleeder screw that it came with and had a heck of a time getting the seal tight enough to draw fluid. With much help from here and plumbers tape I got a tight seal and and the clutch working. Now I have the same leak from around the bleeder valve. It can't be tightened anymore. So, how do I get the seal tight enough around this bleeder screw so that it doesn't leak? How do you bleed out the line losening and tightening and keep the seal tight enough when you are done? Can't believe I have to pull the cover, drain the oil, losen up the clutch slave just because they design these things that you can't unscrew the bleeder screw the hole way out. Crazy. Appreciate your help. Sorry for my attitude. It is the 4th time I will have the clutch slave off this summer.
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With all the good info I have read on this site I thought i would chime in with a tip. First of all the fuel filter is difficult but not impossible to remove but i didnt want to repeat that madness everytime i needed to change it. First of all to remove the filter i used needle nosed pliers,a flat blade screwdriver, phillips screw driver, 1/4 drive ratchet, a phillips bit (from my cordless drill)and a socket to hold the bit. You will also need to visit NAPA and get 3 zip ties and a NAPA 3011 fuel filter, It costs around 3.50 and it is a paper element so it will stop all the bad stuff and it is encased in clear plastic so you wont be guessing if there is any crud in the filter. I removed the sidecovers and shut off the fuel valve and freed the fuel line from the metal strap that holds it in place under the fuel tank. On the other side where the filter is i used the 1/4 ratchet with the bit and i was able to loosen and remove the screw that holds the filter in place. It wasnt easy but with a little dexterity i was able to fit the ratchet between the swingarm and frame with my right hand and hold the head of the ratchet with my left hand to maintain pressure on the screw till it was off. I removed the screw that holds the filter bracket to the frame and removed the bracket and now the bracket has a home in a drawer. Use the needle nose pliers to squeeze the clamps and slide them back on the hose. Use a flatblade screwdriver to pry the fuel line from the filter on both sides and toss that milky colored filter.The beauty of this whole post is a napa 3011 fuel filter will work and is shorter and easily fits in that tight spot and it will not collapse when you are at full throttle. Just clip off the smaller diameter ends of the filter tube and attatch to the fuel lines. Slide the clamps back over and now you have a nice clear filter but the whole thing kind of flops around. Put a zip tie through the hole where the filter clamp screw was and wrap it around the fuel filter. Now you can use the other zip ties to secure the fuel line. I just tied them to the frame and did it so the fuel filter is nice and level. You can put some electrical tape on the fuel line before you zip tie it if you think the zip tie might rub a hole in the fuel line. Dont forget to hook the line back into the metal strap on the other side. Now you can change the filter next time quicker than the guys changing tires on a racecar at a nascar race. Just use a pair of snips to cut the ties, loosen the clamps,replace the filter and reassemble. Put on 3 ties and you are DONE. This filter is close to the diameter of the stock filter so you purists out there can put it back in the clamp if you want. It is not as long as the stock filter but hey i can replace it once a year for 3.50 versus not replacing the filter this year because the stealer wants 20.00 bucks. Good Luck:sun:
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Need to get to fuse panel. The inner cowling screw near the brake pedal just turns with no in or out movement no matter which way I turn screw.. Pressure against the cowling plastic doesn't help. Any trick to this? Seems like threads or nut? behind this is fubar. First time for me to try and remove. I guessing it has been off before since middle bottom push screw is missing. Wally -
I kept beating myself up because I know I lubed all lever contact points and fresh fluid. Yadda yadda . well what happened is that the lever was Binding up at the fulcrum. the point where there is a screww with a locknut on the bottom. i always over tighten stuff and by doing so with plenty of grease at the hinge the lever worked wonderfully. Well as the grease wore off the tightened hinge was causing more friction. i loosened the locknut and realized that the lever action was also tightening the bolt/Pin. i backed out the screw greased it all up and locktite the locknut. The nut is not squeezing the hinge point and the locknut will nut work itself loose with extra protection. tigtening that screw and nut too much will cause un needed friction and cause your brake lever to feel tight. Simple lesson learned.
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Folks, Last night I reciecved a call from oldschool, Ray Crosby in Temple TX. He is on his way to Chicago on his bike as his son, Chris, was involved in a hit and run. He is broke up pretty badly having had to undergo surgery to pin and screw his leg and arm back together. If you could take a second and send a little knee mail up to the man upstairs I know Ray and I would greatly appreciate it.....
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Yesterday while riding on the Highway I noticed my windshield was getting closer to my helmet, then I saw the plastic chrome piece lifting up and my windshield was lifting up. I eased up on the throtle and put my left hand up to hold the winshield in place when it broke free from my fairing. I was lucky and had a grip of it and pulled over without a miss hap. The one screw holding it solid to the fairing was off and inside my fairing. One screw was lost and the others where still screwed in but the windshield just pulled out since they are open ended slots. I was lucky, and I have never understood why Yamaha only made one connection for the windshield.
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Add me to the list of those looking to find that Yami engineer that desperately needs my size 13 planted where the sun don't shine. So I read up all of the info I could find about changing the diodes in the TCI. I acquired a bunch of diodes for the job. Got all of the necessary tools ready. And dive in head first. There were some threads that made it sound like it would be not to bad to get the TCI out. I started with the suggestion that it can be done from the bottom without having to remove the air box, so that is where I went first. It should have been an ommen but the very first screw that I touched to remove the lower air scoop the hex hole stripped out, kind of my own fault, the last time I had that piece off to do an oil change I noted that the holes were very rusted and not much hex was left. Not a big deal, grab the Dremel with a cut off wheel and grind a slot for a flat blade screw driver. I took off the rest of the recommended parts to gain access to the TCI and sure enough, there it was starring at me. I thought Cool this ain't so bad. YEA RIGHT! I grab my Phillips bit and a ratchet to get the screws out, only to find out that someone must have been after the TCI once before, the screws were completely rounded out. By using the trick of putting some grinding compound on the tip of the bit to get extra traction I was able to get out the screw on the right side of the bike. The left screw just was not going to come out no matter what tricks I tried, none of which is helped by the fact that you can not even see the screw head. Enter plan 2; So since I can not get to that screw from the bottom I go ahead and pull out the air box. Cool now I can see more of the TCI but still can not get to that last screw. Enter plan 3; Grab a hack saw blade and go ahead and cut off the tab from the side of the TCI, (ain't NO way I am mounting it back up in that god awful place anyhow) Now that the TCI is out I'm off to the house and back into the A/C to do the diode swap. I took out the screws to reveal the bottom of the PCB. then take out the screws to release the PCB from the other half of the case and once again grab my trusty Dremel and make the cut to get the case open. Low and behold there are the diodes. every thing in the TCI looks like bran new, I was expecting to see the big globs of corrosion around the diodes like others have posted, but no these are clean and shiny looking like bran new. This got me to thinking, I wonder if the PO had the TCI replaced at some point before I got the bike and that is why the screws were stripped out. So I pondered this for a few minutes, should I just put it back together or doe the diode swap while I am in there???????? I finally decided to do the swap and was able to do the whole job without lifting any pads. I cleaned the board of all flux and other residue and reapplied a conformal coating to protect the circuits from moisture. I did notice that once I got the cover to the TCI off that there was a small puddle of water inside of the TCI!!!! I had washed the bike two days earlier. So I put a bead of sealant all around the perimeter of the case and sealed up the new seam that I created and sealed up the 2 small holes that Yami put there for no purpose other than to allow water in. Now time to put it all back together. First thing was to plug in the TCI and make sure that the bike still runs, WooHoo, it started right up and all 4 pipes got hot. So per the ideas posted here I cut a hole thru the inside of the faring and pulled the wire harness for the TCI thru the hole. It is plenty long to reach. then I got out some splices and heat shrink to repair the white with green stripe wire that I managed to cut thru while making the hole in the faring. oopie! I used some Velcro strips to attach the TCI to the inside of the faring. While I was in there I cleaned out all of the mouse droppings and nut and seed shells that the mice had left there for me. WTF the dang mouse was still in there. Well at least it is dead, that explains the "aromas" that I had been noticing when sitting a red lights. Got that mess all cleaned up, the rest of the reassembly went quite quickly and uneventfully. Once more start it up to make sure everything still works and Yippee, it does. So at least I don't have to worry about this issue for another 24 years. Now if it will just cool off enough so that I can take it for a ride. OK Rant over...... Back to you regularly scheduled programing. -
If you have a light bar, are the turn signals the stock ones and just relocated to the lightbar? The lightbar was already on the bike when I bought it. Had an oops moment yesterday. I was taking off the old front amber lense (clutch side) to put on a new clear one. One screw was stubborn and didn't want to come out. The lense itself eventually broke and so did the screw. Unfortunately It broke pretty flush with the part that it screws into in the turn signal housing so only option was to drill out the screw. I will say that I am usually good at drilling out old bolts and such. Well this is one time I wasn't. I didn't have the correct angle so ended up drilling out completely part of the hole the screw goes into. So the option I see is replace the turn signal housing. I also want to get another amber lense in case I ever want to go back to stock or go to LED signals (thanks Freebird for the input on matching led color to lense for brightness). Are the front and rear signal housing interchangable? Any suggestions?
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Does anyone have a spare for a 1st gen in case I screw up or regret doing it. :bang head:
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As you may have seen in a previous thread, I have recently purchased and installed the 4 pc Ultimate Seat set + passenger armrests. The weather here sucks, but I've managed to get 300+ km in since the installation and I'm ready to share my results. Customer Service / Delivery: I purchased from the website with no human contact necessary. Automated emails notified me of the completed purchase, and in due course, that the products had been shipped. There was a bobble by UPS during shipping when the parcel went astray in Moncton NB, but it was corrected and was still delivered ahead of the projected schedule. Definitely not the supplier's fault. Packaging: Sturdy cardboard boxes, with each piece individually wrapped in bubble wrap. It would have taken a significant event to cause damage during shipping. Fit and finish: No detectable flaws in the material, stitching, assembly etc. Installation: Wide backrest: one of the washers embedded in the back around the screw holes seperated. Pressed back in to position and it stayed. Fit and finish, including screw hole line up - perfect. Rider backrest: Slotted in securely and easily. Wide range of adjustment for angle. Backrest pouch: Not exactly sure what I'm going to use this for yet, but it's well made and fitted. Passenger seat: The stock mount with 3 points of attachment had to be removed to be replaced by the supplied single point mount. There were contact pads that supported the front spread over the same area that the stock mount covered. Rear bracket was not quite in contact with the fender when originally placed in position but tightening the rear screw hand tight fixed that. Riders seat: Rear bracket fitted securely into position. The front screw holes did not initially line up. I sat my 260 lbs on it and it shifted a bit. Got off and looked - yup - precisely in place. Riding position: I'm about 1 1/2" higher, 1" forward. Not bad at all. Changed my arm angle slightly but not enough to matter, and I became accustomed to it quickly. Comfort: Intially stiff, but this did not cause a worry as it had been reported by other reviewers. It's quickly molding to my shape and becoming more confortable every time I sit on it. Riding: I'm not precisely sure why, but I find I feel more 'connected' to the bike. My confidence in low speed handling has improved. The one middle distance trip I've made with it was a real eyeopener. Km after km, it just felt right, like my leather recliner in the TV room. The stock seat would have had me wriggling after 20-30 minutes trying to ease the ache. I do find that vibration may be moving the backrest adjustment screw as I ride. I'm going to give it a few more long runs until I'm sure exactly where I want the backrest positioned and then I'll loctite it. Passenger: I've taken 3 of my children for rides with it. All agree that the wider backrest, more comfortable seat and arm rests allow them to sit back and enjoy the ride. My 9 year olds find that they cannot get their feet flat on the boards any more because the rider backrest is in their way. ( I expect they'll grow) My DW has sat on it and pronounced it 'comfortable' but she hasnt been on the road on it yet. Price: There's a bit of sticker shock with this one, but if you can get past that I feel it's an extremely satisfactory solution to a very unsatisfactory stock seating set. If anyone has any questions about the seat or installation, please feel free to PM.
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OK...so what does the phillips screw (with the nut) do on the brakke lever? Also...how do you adjust it...If I put some clearance (space) between the screw head and the nut...and then turn the screw to tighten...THEY BOTH MOVE. Which means the screw and nut tighten to the same place every time. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Wally
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I am working on the steering column of my 96 GMC full size P/U. There are a bunch of screws in the steering column that look like a Torx BIT, but are 5 point instead of 6 point. So I need a nut driver that has 5 internal points. This screw head is about 1/8" OD. I have been looking at tool places and can not find anything like this. I have found the Pentasockets but they are for a screw head with 5 flat sides, This is a star shape more like what a Torx bit looks like.
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On a road trip. Smell raw fuel more at idle. Bike runs well, I think, at highway speed. Idle is not right. gas milage down to maybe 30. I did about 400.miles yestetday. This AM before start up, I removed left side cover. I discovered fuel droplets on the screw just below what I would call the throttle shaft spring. I took a picture but I tried to upload and I was unable to upload the picture. I am typing with a touch screen smart phone please excuse any typos Any thoughts on what I am dealing with, stuck or misadjusted float ? Appreciate the help. Point of reference . There is a screw above the on where fuel is a accumulating and one below. The screw above is much larger. -
Went out to eat, afterwards sitting on curb talking to wife noticed screw in back tire. Not leaking air so went strait home , easy like. Pulled out 2" screw it went in at angle middle of tire. Tire is a Avon Vemnon with 865 miles on it. Do you'all thing i could plug & patch. Just to get some wear out of it before replacing it? (good meal didn't settle to well go figuer) Larry
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I need you expertise! Could someone please direct me to a schematic that explains the workings of the first generation carbs. An exploded diagram for these particular models with an explanation would be helpful. I was hoping to find a thread with photos of a carb overhaul. I would like to understand a little bit more about what is going on. There are a lot of small holes and orifices that seem to serve similar roles. My current problem is as follows. I removed and cleaned the carbs and have cured my rough acceleration problem. Now, any adjustment to the pilot screw on just one carb makes no difference. Closing the pilot screw all the way on the other carbs causes the engine to stumble while any adjustment on this one carb makes no difference - the engine runs regardless of setting. I guess where I am a bit unsure is the role played by the other small orifices and their routing Thank you.
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anyone every heard of a tool called grabit? im working on pulling the radiator on my 84 yamaha venture got some things off but need to remove the chrome plastic covers and of course there are 2 verry rounded off screws there. i tried a bigger phillips screw driver and they moved about 3 turns when that damn screw driver slipped and rounded them off to where it looks like i have to use some kind of extractor. and it looks like the grabit tool just drills and burnish then flip the tool and remove the screw. of course i have to get a cordless drill as there is no outlets in the storage unit for a elcectric one. if any one else has any ideas on removing these screws let me know.
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Is there a Bleed screw for the Cooling system??? Everything with Coolant SHOULD have one! Also having trouble getting the rear caliper cover ( Flat Black Cover ) back on. Seems simple. Many Thanks bf
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When screwing in the Carb Bowl screw how far does one tighten. Just when you feel the spring tention, or all the way in until it stops or somewhere inbetween? From the center of the diaphram cover one goes straight down and the screw is in a long tunnel.
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I can't find a part number for a part. I took the tank off my bike. On the left side there is a black cover that attaches to the neck of the frame. Does anyone know the description and part number? I need the screw that holds this part on the bike. Thanks,
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hey guys i need some help,i have the manual but it doesnt show or tell what i want,1st off mine is an 84 venture xvz1200 and there is one screw around the cable adjustment on the drivers left side what is it for? and then there are 2 screws in the same area on the right side,what are those? and if possible how to adjust all 3 cause until i can afford to get the carbs synced i need to adjust my idle cause it is to low and fluxuates a little to much,one of the guys here told me that there was a round screw knob around carb 2 but mine doesnt have one, so please help all u can with these 3 thnx and i have pics of the 3 i will try to add here but if not email me and i`ll send em to ya thnx troy -
The cover plate on side of the engine, each cylinder has one and it is held in place with a phillips head screw. The cover was loose and rattling and the screw would not turn in or out. Well the short is the head is now stripped out. Any thoughts on how to free the screw. I thought about drilling out the screw head............I'm afraid of ripping a hole in the cylinder. I believe the screw is fused to the aluminum in the block. AHHHAHHHH. joe (Saddle_Bag) -
Ok, I know these will get a better bite on an OEM screw on a Japanese bike. The most common problem that I run into working on the older bikes is simply that the last guy has damaged the heads or stripped out the screws and can't get what he was working on apart. So if I was the kind of guy that orders every screw from the stealership I'd be in good shape. But I'm not that guy. LOL So the question is, and dumb it might be, but when buying metric screws at the local hardware store is the head going to be JIS or our standard? Mike
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Hello all, I has a slight coolant leak under the cylinder "fins" that developed over the winter while in storage on my '03 RSV. From talking to people and reading posts by the fine folks here, I ordered in new plugs and changed all 4. Taking out the old ones, I lost some coolant as expected. The new plugs fit fine and I have no leaks now. The question I have is the new plugs have a female thread in the center of them for a bolt or screw. The old ones were just rubber with no threads. Is there supposed to be a bolt or screw that goes in the threaded portion of these new plugs? Thanks. -
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Trust me, if you have a 2nd Gen, you DO have broken tabs on the inner fairing where the ends of the windshield bracket SHOULD be attached! Even if your bike is quite new, they are broken. Here is a picture of what the tabs should look like - I'm holding the broken back piece to show how it would look if it was actually there: [ATTACH]15890[/ATTACH] I'm sure Yamahaha would replace the inner fairing under warranty for this, but frankly, I don't want them to rip my bike apart to do it when the new ones will just break in the first week anyway. The relatively easy solution is to make a brace that will run from the bottom screw on the speaker to the screw in the windshield bracket. When positioned correctly, this will clamp the windshield bracket against the tiny bit of the tab that remains and stop all motion. To start with, you will need a couple of metal straps - they cannot be too thick, but must be more sturdy than hardware tape. I found this bracket in the framing section of the hardware store and just cut the two pieces off: [ATTACH]15891[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]15892[/ATTACH] Put one end on the speaker screw and then cut the bracket to the exact length that will just fit under the top lip of the inner fairing. You will have to use a pair of pliers to twist and curve the strap to fit flush against the rubber grommet that holds the nut. The correct position for the windshield bracket is to have the metal piece behind the fairing tabs, and the front lip of the rubber grommet on the outside of the tab. Here are a couple of pictures of how it should be positioned: [ATTACH]15899[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]15898[/ATTACH] In other words, if the tab was still in one piece, it would slide over the groove in the rubber grommet on the outside of the metal windshield bracket. You will need to make sure the windshield bracket is properly positioned on the remaining piece of the tab before you can mark the correct position for the screw hole in the new brace. Here are pictures of the brace before I cut it to length, the finished brace before mounting, and then a couple of different shots of the brace all fastened in place. [ATTACH]15895[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]15893[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]15894[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]15897[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]15896[/ATTACH] Once you have those new braces in place they work like clamps and everything is rock solid.
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