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Showing results for tags 'pressure'.
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Here are some photos of the Avon Venom tire that "wore out". The cords show in three places on one-half of the tire. I'm looking for some feedback on the following (so don't hold back ): 1) The tread wear indicators(TWI) on these tires are essentially WORTHLESS. How do you use the TWI? They are on the outer edge of the tire...where the cords are showing, the TWI looks almost new! 2) How do you gauge tire wear on these tires? Seems like tracking mileage is the most "popular" method. 3) It almost looks like the tire was over-inflated?? I usually keep the rear tire at 38 psi...but...prior to leaving for Charlotte (pulling a trailer) I bumped up the pressure to 42 psi. 4) If the tire is at 42 psi, and the ambient air temperature is +94-98 degrees, what happens to the pressure in the tire? Common sense says that the tire pressure could/should expand 2-8 psi. That means that the tire pressure could be as high as 50 psi.
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Ok I have some 67,000 miles under my 2004 RSV and have been on the Dunlop 404 WWW for the most. Last set I changed to the Elite3 Dunlop. I would like to see if any others have had similar findings. Yes I read about folks getting all kinds of diffrent mileage from all the diffrent tires, but I have the following findings and are looking for another opinion. Dunlop 404 Changed at miles Tire Life Miles 05-20-06 11,655 miles 11,655 05-05-07 22,575 miles 10,920 04-20-08 33,530 miles 10,955 07-12-08 43,614 miles 10,084 05-15-09 51,741 miles 8,127 11-10-09 58,950 miles 7,209 Dunlop Elite3 07-22-10 67,141 miles 8,191 Looking to make a change for more mileage than I have been getting. 80% of the time two up and on the back roads in the mountains. I ride hard on the throttle and like I stole it in the curves. Dunlop 404's I had decent mileage but the performace was lacking, however I did not have the awful tractor tire roar that the Dulop Elite 3 has in the curves. Elite 3 performace in all conditions were unfalable but the noise is terrible. I thought the clutch basket noise was bad. Rear shock still has fluid and still holds air with never leaking. Tires are always checked for pressure before it rolls out of the garage no matter if it is just down to the store. Pressure nevers seems to be low. I always run at 41 PSI. Thoughts from the all great would be appreciated!
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Manufactured 29/09 , 3573 miles so far .No indication of cracks, slivers or whatever The both sidewall are smooth..... Tire pressure 45 psi
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Has anyone used these? they are a tire pressure monitor that stays on your valve stem so you can see at a glance if your pressure was ok. These are different than most as they dont actually measure tire pressure, they will pop up a red flag if the tire pressure drops by 3 lbs or so and are supposed to be engineered not to leak if broken off or unscrewed. http://www.autogeek.net/kwtc.html Brian
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just looking for the recommended pressure for: front Dunlop Elite II rear Metzler 880 Thanks! -
The front suspension on my 89 leaks down slowly---After about a week I notice it's low and have to pump it back up. The Class system seems to work fine--it just looses air pressure over time. Anybody else had this problem?? Frank D. -
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Hello everyone, Did the clutch upgrade(2nd gen). Installed new extra disk, removed wire, half disc, 2 rings. cross sanded the plates, soaked all the disk in fresh Rotella. re-installed with two notches on disc all aligned, installed pressure plate to marks, put new spring on, ring that holds bolts. Bike has 45k, but was barely slipping in 3rd gear with two up and pulling trailer. NOW watched the pressure plate move freely with clutch handle engage, disengage. put the cover back on, fill up oil. Took for a spin..............slips with barely any throttle. must have missed sumptn.!!!! Any good suggestions on what I missed .....hate to think I have to find another gasket. Leaving on the 3rd of June for a 3000mile trip. Clutch lever feels even weaker than before...also clutch doesn't engage until it is almost totally released. Jim -
Shock absorber – Check pressure or add air pressure, How to? I have a 2006 RSTD which I have never bothered to check the shock absorber pressure until this week. Using an automobile tire pressure gauge it registered 0 PSI pressure. Is this something for a DIY person to do or should this be done by the Yamaha dealership? Can a bicycle tire pump be used to increase the pressure to the shock absorber? I understand it is a low pressure unit and excceding the maximum pressure can result in damaged “O” ring seals. Thanks. 2 Flights -
2005 Venture, What is the max. air pressure i can put into the shock to raise my bike to get into my trailer ? The pressure will only be used to get into the trailer, not riding. t/y Cb
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I have an 83 Venture Royale with the CLASS. I get an E4 error. According to the service manual, I believe I am not getting the necessary +/- 5.0 volts input voltage. If I tested this correctly, I checked the black/white and blue/yellow wire at the plug on the control unit itself (as opposed to the pressure senor). The troubleshooting diagram leads me to believe the unit is bad. My question is the following: which unit? Are they referring to the pressure sensor, or the CLASS control unit (the computer itself)? Edit: If it is the control unit, am I correct that the soldering process recommended here is a logical next step? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=493 I have already been to a junkyard looking for pressure sensor, but haven't found anything yet. Thanks.
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One side of the caliper for my front right side brake was seized, so I took it off and cleaned it really good. I managed to get the pistons moving again. When I reinstalled it on the bike and bled the brakes, I can't get any pressure to the lever. Fluid is moving into the caliper and will shoot out the bleed valve, but I still can't get pressure. So far I've tried holding my finger over the bleed valve to use as a check valve while pumping the brake and I also pulled the line off the caliper to make sure it was getting fluid. The caliper is full, fluid is coming out of the check valve, but I still can't get pressure. What gives??? I'm totally lost. I had good pressure before and I can't see a leak anywhere. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. -
Towing this Fibro concept Trailer ,I dont feel like its behind me, My question to you is how much air pressure do I put in these tires, I see that the tires on this trailer have Carisle Sport and Max pressure is 90 psi
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My 83 venture seams to want to vear off from side to side going down the road at any speed. All I can find is the front pressure keeps going up to 22 psi. I set the guage to manual but it keeps going to auto and build pressure. Would this be the problem of the weaving or is it some thing else. The scoot went on craigslist the first of the week. Going to down size.
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One of my projects this winter was to do a complete rebuild of the brakes - new rotors, rebuilt master cylinders, ss lines, rebuilt calipers (thanks Skydoc!). I know the brake bleeding is a pain but I have managed to get the rear/front left air-free after at least a dozen bleeds! I now have good pedal pressure. The easy one, the front rt however, is driving me crazy - no matter what I do, I cannot get any lever pressure. I rebuilt the master cylinder and even disassembled it twice to make sure I installed the rubber cups with the large diameter going into the bore first. After many brake bleeds, there are no more bubbles but still the lever has zero resistance. I must be missing some thing obvious - any hints out there? Thanks!
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This subject has been discussed before but thought I'd just bring it up once again. After installing my new 130/90 front tire, the scoot felt like it was riding on a flat or almost flat rear tire. Pressure on the front was 36lbs and rear was 46lbs (according to my gauge). I dropped the rear pressure to 42lbs and it seemed to help a lot. While out riding yesterday, I was noticing the same "wishy-washy" feeling again...like every little "high-low" irregularity in the road surface, one tire would want to pull in one direction while the other pulled opposite. I decided to buy a digital tire pressure gauge. Checked the tires and they were at 33.5 front and 37.5 rear. Checked again with the old gauge and it showed 36 front, 42 rear. Fired up the compressor and increased the air pressure according to the new gauge. Not sure of the results yet as I didn't get a chance to take another ride. Will update results after Saturday's run. So, just as an update/reminder .... guys, don't rely on your fav old tire gauge (I'd had mine for at least 10 years...it was one of those round dial with a release kind).
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I took out my new tires for a spin. Big difference from the stock Bridgestones. Seemed like the bike was much easier to keep a straight line before. Now I find my self struggling to stay in the lane? Is that a pressure thing or just cause they new? I'm running 38 front and 42 rear.
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Tire Pressure Always inflate tires to the correct pressure as indicated in the owner's manual. However Metzeler North America has found the air pressure suggestions listed below will improve mileage and customer satisfaction especially if a emphasis is placed on running the air pressure towards the maximum as stated on the sidewall. Check cold tire pressures frequently. Correct tire pressure is crucial for safe handling. Over inflation may impair ride comfort and reduce the contact patch between the tire and driving surface of the tires. Insufficient air pressure will result in poor handling and cause a tendency for the motorcycle to "wander". In addition, improper and insufficient tire will cause accelerated tire wear, increased fuel consumption, less control and the possibilities for tire failure to due an overload/under inflated operating situation. Recommended Minimum Tire Pressures (PSI) Touring/CruiserAlpha ME880 (MH, MT, MU tires)Solo2 Up Light2 Up Heavy Front 36 40 40 Rear 38 40 40 ME880 Solo2 Up Light 2 Up Heavy Front 38-40 40-42 40-42 Rea r44-46 46-48 48-50 For bikes with the following rear tire sizes: 170/80-15, **180/70-15,** 150/80-16, 160/80-16, 180/60R16, 180/70R16, 200/60R16, 240/50R16, 140/80-17, 160/70-17 D spec, 170/60R17, 210/50R17, 150/70-18, 180/55ZR18, 200/50R18, 210/40R18, 260/40R18, 280/35R18, 300/35R18, 260/35R21. ME880 (tires as listed above)Solo2 Up Light2 Up HeavyRear404242 I run a 180/70/15 as my rear tire. the spec's say 46-48 lbs, is that right?
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well, i lucked out while mounting my tires, and i've got metal valve stems.. problem is i can't measure the pressure in the tires because all of my pressure tools don't have long enough depressors to check the pressure. any ideas? i'm toying with the idea of seeing if they simply screwed the schrader in too far, or replace the schrader with a longer one, but i'm not positive that'll work.
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Since I've been mulling over going "Dark" next tire change, I've been asking around about seating the beads. I spoke to one of the techs at a local shop who'll mount a CT for me (if I sign a waiver) and asked what kind of pressure he's seen while seating the tires. Needless to say, I was shocked when he says he gets them to seat @ 40-45 psi with a good lube. I asked how he was able to do that and told him about the 100+ psi horror stories I've heard about on here. He said the trick was to remove the valve stem because the stem only allows the air in at a much slower rate. He said by taking the stem out, and hitting it with pressure, the quicker rate of inflation makes it seat easier, quicker, and better. I've not seen it happen, just passing along the info. Hope it helps.
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Hi all, Running a 83' Venture. I have a question about vacuum. Is there a required amount of vaccuum required? Interested in range required to run the pressure sensor for timing advance. I tested the pressure sensor and seems to be good. I am getting low fuel mileage 25mi to 32mi/us gal. Also seem like the diaphram on #2 carb is loose fitting on plunger maybe loosing vacuum. Any thoughts would be greatly apprieciated.
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After you have done the crankcase vent mod, have any of you then had any problems with oil leaks or going through more oil? I have done the mod to my 84 and got a very slow leak afterwords. I also put a vacuum cap over the orifice that the PCV valve went to on the air cleaner, which then mad it sound as if a tribble was stuck in my air box. I'm guessing the air was blowing over the orifice on the inside of the air box making it whistle a bit. Kind of like blowing across the top of an empty rifle shell. I'm gonna undo the little mod this spring and see if things change. PCV = Positive Crank Ventilation. When installed it creates a slight negative pressure, (vacuum), in the crankcase. So if there happens to be a small leak somewhere or a worn seal, the negative pressure won't let the oil leak out. If the PCV valve is eliminated, the result may be a positive pressure inside the crankcase as the engine warms up, and due to blow by. Which then might cause a seal or gasket to weep a bit of oil that might not have done so before. I tried this on my 78 F100 once just to test my theory. The results confirmed my suspicions. Any thoughts? -
Does anyone know where to get a two-into-one air filler for the front struts? That way I can be relatively sure both sides have the same pressure. Thanks, Glenn
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I recently had a Kumho installed on my 2007 Venture. From day one it has leaked air and I attributed that loss to normal things that tires do. Day before yesterday I walked by the bike and noticed that the tire was FLAT, not low but flat. I put the carbon one adapter on and lifted the bike with my sears RV/motorcycle lift. When I had it up I put 40# psi and let it sit overnight on the lift. This AM I checked the pressure and it had lost 5# overnight. I did all the pressure testing with a progressive zero loss gauge so the gauge is not a factor. Prior to setting the pressure for overnight test I made serious attempts to find a leak with soapy water - nada nothing My next move is to take the tire off and try submersing in water to find the culprit. Has anybody else had a pressure loss that could be construed as NOT normal ? and what is my next move should I actually find something ?
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Well it’s official, I went for my first ride tonight on a 165/80/15 Kumho PowerStar and I was not disappointed. It was just a short run (about 60 mi.) on familiar roads so as to compare the handling. The tire was pressured up to 40psi with 2oz of Dino Beads... it felt great. I bought the tire from the good folks up at ‘OK Tire’ in Stony Creek Ontario for $75. CDN Installed (I brought in the wheel off the bike). They had a bit of a time seating the tire to the rim and had to use an air-blaster to make it catch but said that they’ve had tougher jobs. I’m not sure how much pressure it took to seat the bead but it was up there. They’re great people to deal with and said they would do it again. They did a great job and I give them two thumbs up! Thanks to all those who have posted their comments and opinions (pro’s & con’s) on CT’s, it has all been interesting reading. I value all your opinions and have been reading with interest for well over a year. Now if I can only find an economical way to make it a White Wall, I like what 'eagleeye' has done with his tire!
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This is probably a dumb question, but here goes anyway... Approx. 7k ago, I replaced my stock tires with Avons. Everything has gone okay until lately. They started making noise on the lean. So I checked them and I think they are cupping. I have kept 41ish pounds in them, per the service manual. I almost always ride two-up. Now tonight I hopped on it and it feels weird up to about 30 to 40mph. Almost sluggish with the turns, I thought I had a low tire, so I checked it again, this time with 2 different tire guages. They both read 40ish psi. What are the chances of these Avons needing a different tire pressure than the book says? I'd swear that the tire looks like it has been run quite a while with low pressure - which as I said above, I always keep at 40ish psi. craigr
