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Showing results for tags 'plug'.
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I love listening to my tunes on my Android phone plugged into the Aux socket. When the right channel went dead, I checked all the connections and the head phones. Tried the radio... STEREO! Checked the plug and lead. DAMMIT! The end piece of the plug had broken off. Found it! Inside the socket on the bike. Any suggestions on how to get that little sucker out of there? (2008 Venture.)
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Alright i know spark plug replacement should be straight forward. But I've used every swear word i know, and I've even made up a few. I'm trying to get the new plug into the front cylinder on mt 85 venture royale. the other three went right in. do i have to take off the whole front to gain easy access to that spark plug. Pl;ease help, I'm at my wits end. thanx Lazy
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Did this on the Wing so posting here ... The dilemma I was facing was how to put together a nice, clean, somewhat out of the way wiring connection for the trailer. Different hitches might present a different way of doing this but the design of the Rivco hitch doesn't offer much for possibilities. So, I figured I could install a "flush mount" type round plug underneath the trunk, next to the side bag and trunk release levers. As I had already installed a trailer wiring isolator kit designed for plug-and-play at the back of the bike, it was just a matter of taping into the wiring coming out of the isolator. Here's pics of my install... Product Used... [ATTACH]68744[/ATTACH] Backing Plate... [ATTACH]68745[/ATTACH] Wire Routing... [ATTACH]68746[/ATTACH] Marking for the holes using the metal template... [ATTACH]68747[/ATTACH] All cutout and ready for the plug... [ATTACH]68748[/ATTACH] The plug from underside of trunk bellypan... [ATTACH]68749[/ATTACH] The inside of the plug waiting for wires... [ATTACH]68750[/ATTACH] All wired up (had to use same color wire coz I didn't have others but that's no problem) [ATTACH]68751[/ATTACH] Finished Product ... male connector yet to wire up. [ATTACH]68752[/ATTACH]
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First I want to thank Freebird for his excelent how to on fixing the class controller board. I had nothing on my class display, most of the time. occasionally I would show 0 psi and then an e4 error then the display would go blank. I tried the solder fix and now when I switch to acc position my display lights up showing front rear manual auto on the left side and 0 psi I can select med hi or low or switch to auto mode momentarily then it goes into an E4 error. after 30 seconds or so everything recycles through the same sequence. I can hear a relay click under the trunk every time the display cycles but no compresor comes on, should I be able to hear the compressor if my pressure is too low IE: 0 psi. Looking at the wiring diagram I see a two connector plug going to the pump as well as a larger multi connector plug just upstream of the plug for the pump. I assume the compressor is under the trunk and these connectors are also in that area. can anybody tell me where the class relay is and the connector asociated with it. Where is the compressor and it's connector are located. and where the large multi connector plug just upstream is located. do I remove just the trunk, or also the seat? Again thanks Freebird, and thanks in advance to anybody who can help with my questions Al -
well it has been a while since i could look at bike i ck the compression today 140 in all but rt rear it has 130 i am getting fire to plug i have cleaned the carb jest 4 or five itmes so i have a valve problem? bumble bee 1999 rsv
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How much power/volts does it take to keep the pre-sets alive on the 2nd gen ? Wanting to remove my main battery and put another type in as I am doing some experimenting for the Deka and Odyssey battery's , so I was thinking of making something up to plug into the AUX plug in the fairing to keep them alive while changing out the battery, any tips ? Thanks, Jeff
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Went on fairly long trip last weekend and notice the bike was sputtering a little and had a little backfire once in a while. Anyway, I pulled the plugs and found that the front left was much darker then the rest as you can see in the photo below. Some history, I replaced the TCI with the new electronic one from the group buy, I run a shot of seafoam with every gallon of gas, I only use Premium fuel. After replacing these plugs today, I installed Skydocs Shim Mod on the sliders and since the Torx screw was not present I have to assume the previous owner was already into these carbs. Diaphragms looked new with no holes at all. I do have a set of new NGK spark plug wires I bought from ebay but i have yet to install them. I know I will need to have the carbs synced soon, but I am having trouble finding a dealer that will work on this vintage in my area. http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac264/bobandlou3/IMG_0368.jpg -
See the attached pictures. The wires in question look like Black with red line running the length of the wire and black with intermittant white bands. They go into the wiring harness thru the plug shown on top of the chrome bar. 2nd picture shows black with white bands better. Neither one seem to carry power! I've tried lights, brakes, accessory switches, cruise on/ pushed set, accel, cancel....nothing! The large clear hose you see is for my air horns. Also, the soft rubber plug on the air intake for the cruise pump...is it supposed to go into a hole somewhere? I don't see anywhere for it to mount into. Or is it not a plug? Almost feels like it could be a bellows or something. My cruise isn't working so I'm trying to figure that out also. -
i was out today pilfering and came across this for $4.99 @ O'Riley Auto Parts, great if u have a battery tender already has the male/female plug..all rubber coated with a nice tight cap.. http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc501/1hondaman1100/th_106_6937.jpg
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Hi Everyone. Having recently been stood at the side of the road after a camping trip with a flat battery. (Was my own daft fault) I have added the following system to my bike to top up the battery whilst it is stood in places without power. I have at home an Oxford Oximisor battery tender in my garage but use camping sites with no power on them. I purchased a cheap 12v 100ma solar panel and fitted it with two copper pipe clips with screws and spacers to fit into the panel screw holes which enables me to clip the unit onto the rack on the back of the bike. It can be fitted and face in any direction to catch the sun. I then converted a 12v plug in acccessory unit with a plug that fits my battery tender, you just plug the unit into this and can run 12v items from it or charge a mobile phone, sat nav etc. The unit comes with crocodile clips too so you could charge a loose battery too. I know it is not the ultimate charger nor the ultimate system but it will come in very handy. Neil. (Old Miner) Cost about £20 would be $15 ish.
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Has anyone had a stator go south on a 2nd Gen RSV? I'm only getting 9.5-12.5VAC at the voltage regulator plug and the same voltage at the stator plug.
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If I purchased a J&M JMCB 2003 unit can I use my sirius satalite radio with it? I see a hook up up for a mp3 player and other stuff is this also where I would plug it in? Does anyone know about this system? Joe
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ok guy's little help here. The guy i bought my rsv from took the antennas off and cut the coax cables handing me the whole mess in a box.These were the short black plastic wrapped antennas not the long ones.I've mounted an xm radio on it so am/fm do's not bother me but need the cb for upcoming road trip.Q#1 were is the cb Q#2 is the coax made into the cb or is it the plug in kind i can just pull out and replace (i have no idea how to splice a coax cable)Q#3 keep and use short black antenna or find the orig type and put it back on?Q#4 (nothing to do with cb)the acc plug under the left side of seat is DOA......fuse behind right lower faring is ok,replaced it to be sure,any ideas on this one? thanks in advance Mike
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My new to me 86 has been sitting for at least 4 years. The previous owner only put 400 miles on it last year. Before that the owner died and his wife kept it 3 years before selling it. I don"t know when the last time the radiator has been flushed and the coolant changed so i want to do that before i get into the meat of the riding season. In my owners manual it shows two point to drain the system. a coolant drain cock coming down off the radiator and a drain plug under the water pump. My question: Which of these two points do members use to drain their coolant? Is the drain cock plastic? will it break? or is the plug under the water pump easier to get to and open? I'd love to know who has used either or both and could you only use one or the other? Thanks.
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Not realizing a smooth running acceration and decent Gas mileage since installing the new programmable TCI I decide to plug the old TCI back in and compare the performance between the old and the new. 1st I just plugged the old TCI in with the new map sensor still hooked up with vacumn tube to the #1 Intake boot port but electrically not hooked up. Leaving the tank cover off, I go for test ride to auto parts store. It seemed to run about the same as the new programmable TCI. So I'm thinking the problem is not related to the TCI Old or New. But as I was leaving the auto parts store the bike began backfiring, bogging down then shut off and would not recrank.WTF:confused24: So, I'm sitting on the side of the road for about thirty minutes scratching my head, trying to get the bike to crank and worrying about a two mile up hill push home. Then I noticed the orange wire on the 6 pin plug to TCI is hanging 1/2 way out of the plastic plug. I push in all the way in and the bike cranks. So then I get on the highway to run the bike at highway speeds for a few exits and back. On the xway it runs about the same as the new TCI maybe a little better. But, before I could get back home on three occassions while at a traffic light the bike starts bogging down again and backfiring. After wiggling wires it straightens out. When I get home I wire in the leads to the old TPS into the new 8 pin plug so I can switch back and forth from the old TCI/TPS configuration to the new TCI/MAP Sensor configuration and unplug tube from Map sensor to intake boot and hook up tube from TPS to port. While doing this I notice that the pins inside both the 8 pin plug and the six pin plug are not all bottomed out indicating that the pins are not securely locked inside the new plastic plugs. I'm thinking INTERMITTEN WIRE CONNECTION FAILURE WITHIN THE QUICK CONNECT PLUGS On several occassions since I've owned the bike over the past 10 years poor performance and gas mileage has been traced back to bad electrical connections of the quick connect plugs to the TCI. Numerous other problems resulted from bad connections in multiple other quick connect plugs. I just dont trust quick connect plugs anymore. So, I took some small needle nose pliers and make sure all of the wires are pushed in all the way on the TCI plugs and take a ride around the neighborhood. The acceration was quicker and more responsive than I ever remember it being and the bike litterly flies. Next I'm going to take a longer test ride on xway to see if my theory holds up and the gas mileage improves.
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I"ve done all my rainy weekend maintenance and also ordered a sylvania silverstar ultra bulb for my headlight. Just wondering if I should order a porcelain plug for it or will the original be ok. Thanks, Ray.
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My 89 VR, last year, ran fine. I normally run an ounce of SeaFoam in each gas tank, and at the end of the year on a full tank I put in about 4 or 5 ounces of Seafoam, then ran it about 30 minute ride, then top of the tank. Now it is ready for the winter lay up Sometime in Jan of 2012 during a nice day I took it out for a mid winter warm up. Just to make sure everything was running ok. It ran perfect until the last 5 minutes. All of a sudden I could tell that I was not getting the normal throttle response. At a stop light I noticed that it was idling at less than 500 rpms and I could hear what might sound like not firing on all 4s. Got it home and let it sit. See I was too busy putting accessories on my 91 VR. But all the time been thinking about how to attack the 89 VR issue. So I finally got to it this morning. As I turned the key on the fuel pump did it click click thing like a machine gun. Hit the choke and with in about the 2nd hit of the starter it started right up. During warm up I could tell that the symptom was still there. When I took the choke off, yep it is idling below 500 rpm, and not sounding good. From cold start up I hit each cylinder with the laser temp run and all 4 cylinders seem to be warming up fairly evenly, temp wise. I will start it up tomorrow morning when cold and be more attentive with the temp on the left banks. The left banks temp may have been a bit behind the right banks. I just wasn’t paying too closely So this morning I did the following: I sniped off 1/8 to 1/4 inch of the spark plug wire. Started it up - Same symptoms. Facing in the forward riding position While running I pulled the right back cylinder plug - the engine died. While running I pulled the right front cylinder plug - the engine died. While running I pulled the left back cylinder plug - engine kept running. tiny bit less rpm. While running I pulled the left front cylinder plug - engine kept running. tiny bit less rpm. So it is my 2 left cylinder bank. I pulled the plug cap of each left cylinders and put a spare plug in it to test for spark. Both have good spark. I then unscrewed each plug and then tested the two original spark plug for spark. Both have good spark. Infact the plugs almost look band new. Well they should be for very little miles were put on them last year. Also when I pulled the original plugs they were not wet with fuel. They were very dry, meaning they aren't getting any fuel or what fuel it was getting was being burnt off. It was running initially with the choke but later I took the choke off. So with good spark and the cylinder temp seemed to be going up some what normal would indicate that the 2 left cylinders were getting proper spark and fuel. I'm suspicious it still is a fuel issue. I’m going start it up tomorrow morning, cold, and record the cylinder temps. Meanwhile any suggestion for me to think and plan would be appreciated. I’d like to start with the less expensive and simpler solutions. Thanks -
My brother in Wisconsin is having trouble figuring out his 91 VR. He's paid up here but I have more time. He reported sluggish performance at speed. I had him run his bike cold for a minute and #3 didn't warm up. He pulled off his air box and diaphragm cover. The carbs looked clean, was probably cleaned by the dealer before he sold it, but he sprayed it down with carb cleaner anyway, and got it to spray up through the jets. He pulled the plug, grounded it against the case and reported seeing it spark. So he put it back together. It ran rougher than before, which sounded like a new air leak but he hasn't gone back to check. The plug wire on #3 had a cap that was pretty chewed up. He's thinking of replacing all the plug wires. I've suggested his next step is to get his ohm meter out to test resistances of his ignition circuit, but other than saying that I don't know how to do it. Any other diagnostic suggestions would be welcomed, as well as a pointer to resistance testing info. I've found a few scattered but not a definitive write up. Thanks! Tom
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What are these plugs called? The one the arrows are pointing to. Both of mine are cracked and I need to replace them. Can't find the number on them so I can order some. The plug on the right. Thanks and isn't the weather wonderful here in the state of Michigan. Suppose to be in the 80"s today. [ATTACH]65245[/ATTACH]
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Head set wiring for speakers.
KIC posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
So I have a little project I would like to complete. I bought 2 male pigtails that fit into the standard tank plug. My goal is to just wire a 3.5 female stereo plug into the end. This should allow me to plug in my normal stereo plug into the tank plug and listen to the radio through my existing helmet setup. I currently listen to my Jimmy Buffett though a small music stick. QUESTION: Why can't I hear the music by just hooking the #5 (right speaker wire) and #3 (left speaker wire) wires to the female plug and then plugging my existing stereo patch wire into the 3.5 plug ? Do I need a different female receptor than a normal 3.5 female ? I have check the continuity in the wires and they are OK. I have tried it and it just doesn't work.. -
Not sure if I am asking in the right place but does anyone have any extra headsets that they want to sell that will plug into my "06" Thanks, Kenny
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I have what looks like a cigarette lighter on left fairing that says 12V-DC. There is nothing there as far as wires go. Is this a dummy plug or do they really need to let people know it's a 12V-DC system?
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2005 RSTD oil plug has NO magnet??? Normal??? If normal is there a clearence problem?? Anyone tried one? Don't understand why anyone would not put a magnetic plug on from factory, especially on a bike with such a long factory warranty. Many Thanks
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My breather plug is seeping on my '89....I noticed in the shop manual this plug can be replaced.....anyone done this before? Can the plug be pulled out w/ a pair of pliers or the like, or is there some special tool required? Considering how tight it feels, I wonder if I can get it our w/o breaking off a part of the plug. Thanks in advance, Greg -
I am going to add a Zumo 665 to my 2004 RSV this spring. I wish to plug this into the aux of the radio. My question is can I unplug the the connection from the back of the cassette and plug it directly into the Zumo wire harness. I don't need any other aux inputs or the cassette player? Thanks for your help.
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