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Showing results for tags 'lower'.
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Does anyone know the procedure to split upper & lower fork tubes on a 2008 XL 1200 Custom? My son has one and he wants to powder coat lower fork tubes. A clip from service manual would be very helpful. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT2684s.jpg
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Has anyone felt their rear differential after a ride to see how hot it gets. I've never really paid attention to mine in my Millenium. I see that some of the older diffs have cooling fins on them, but the newer ones don't. My issue: I put a 2008 Venture rear (the whole pumpkin - after machining the hole in the boss for the shock and plugging the speedo sensor hole) into my 1998 VMax to lower the rpms. Seems to work well and I like the 500 or so lower rpms at highway speed. Gas mileage is better too. But the diff seems to get pretty doggone hot to the touch after a ride. Now I know that I live in the south and it has been really hot lately. But I've had this bike since '99 and I didn't notice that heat with the original set-up. Could have been hot too, just never boticed it. I hear no cracking or creaking going on back there. Do you think I have something discombobulated? Any ideas?
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What are you guys doing about repairing/replacing the lower 2 fwd fairings due to crumbling ABS plastic? Mine are in pretty bad shape, and actually are beginnning to crumble at both attach points and, in the case of the lower fwd piece in front of the exhaust, it literally crumbled into several pieces. Did a search on some of the usual parts sites, but they are pretty expensive. Any ideas? -
How do you pick this d***n thing up!!!
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
OK, so I just got the bike and I'm sure this has been covered in this forum somewhere, but........... was in a parking lot the other day, sitting on the RSV, pushing it out of a space, turning the bike a little, when............. the ground under me sloped off a little. Long story short, it went down........... I stepped off, a little shook, faced the bike (the wrong way I know) and tried to lift it. No FRICKEN WAY was it going to move. A guy ran over and together we lifted it. So I rode away embarrassed. Today, I get my neighbor to come over and we gently lay it down on the kickstand side onto a piece of cardboard. So I back up to it, grab the lower half of the handlebar and the seat and push with my legs. Now, I'm not a little guy, as a matter of fact I'm stronger than the average. I could not budge the thing!!! He had to help me get it back on the kick stand. THIS IS SCARRY! How do you lift it? Do I need to carry a bottle jack? Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -
I was checking to see if you can lower these bike very much. I sure don' t need it but the wife is 5'2" sanding on a 3' step ladder. She now rides a HD heritage softail but has trouble touching the ground flat footed. Anyone who has ever rode one knows you cant go any lower on them they drag to much now. I thought about getting her a venture if you can lower them enough for her to get on. I would like to see her with a dresser bike.
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I am going to the store today to buy two new J&M Headsets and lower cords. Does anyone know if there is any REAL difference between the "performance" headset and the "Elite" headset? The price isn't much different, and the descriptions are identical between the two. However, the lower cords are $30 difference between the "P" and "Z" cords. They look identical also. Has anyone here had both, and could tell a difference? Need to know soon, as I'm going to get them in a bit.
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On my way to work thursday morning I had the bad luck of encountering a wayward raccoon. I saw him running straight down the center of the road so I slowed down and proceeded to go nice and wide around him. I got right next to him and he zigged right behind my front wheel and just barely hit underneath on the left hand side of the bike. So I stopped and got out the flashlight to see if anything was damaged. Turns out that little hit shattered both of my lower cowlings. Called the insurance and they were more concerned with me not getting hurt than any damage to my bike. Kind of nice dealing with someone like that for a change. Anyway, called around to check on parts and what a suprise that was. $817 for the pair of green lower cowlings and they have to be shipped from japan.
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Any advice on where I can come up with a lower right cowling. After hitting that gator the other day, I've been riding with it cracked and it's driving me nuts. I gotta get it fixed.
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Looking at page 5-40 service manual, but can't get it to copy here. When the bolt that goes thru ARM-1, Relay Arm, and Lower fitting or Rear Shock is tightened down, the shock locks up to ARM-1(does not pivot freely). Can see what is happening, bushings 'G' press into bushing of lower shock and 'lock up' Bushing of lower shock appears to be molded into the rubber isolator of lower shock. It takes siginficant force to rotate shock around pivot of ARM-1, this can't be correct, can it? Can't figure any way to 1. Keep pressure of bushings 'G' off bushing of lower shock so shock bushing can rotate around bolt shank.(dont think this would be correct for shock to work directly on the bolt) or 2. Allow shock to rotate around lower shock bushing/rubber isolater Removed entire shock/link system due to this issue, installed zerk fittings and lubed. All other pivot points work great. Ideas/ Suggestions? Brian
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Last spring I greased my front forks. Put it all back together and everything looked good. A while later I had to trailler the bike and it was loaded with the bike on its sidestand and the front wheel turned left against the bulkhead. We strapped it down and only hauled it about 5 miles at low speed. Afterward it seems that the handlebars and the driving light assembly is tweaked to the right about 1/4 1/2". I never noticed that before. Sitting on the bike its either 1/4 lower on the right or 1/4 higher on the left. So, is there a procedure that I can do to make sure I line everything up right? Right now the bike is up on the lift. I plan on moving the fairing away and remove the top tree and check the pinch bolts. Any other ideas?
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I am thinking of purchasing some lower wind vents (I am already feeling the heat)...and have only seen one picture of them installed....and the angle was from the front, which meant you could barely see the vents. Could someone post several angles of the vents from the back and also a closer view of the clamps. Thanks, Wally
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I was reading a thread on hear about float's being set to high on venture's from the factory, making them run rich. So if I put on Bub's pipes it will still be ok. But it didn't say if you lower the floats to factory specks. if the Bubs are still still OK with out rejeting??? Or do you need to rejet? 2008 venture. Thank's for the info!
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Ok......nice afternoon......sun came out.....time to finish up a few things and check over some of the work I've done on the old girl before I put the bodywork back on. When I first pulled the lower chin off a while back there was a LOT of antifreeze in there. OK, not a biggie, check the bypass valve. Not bad I figurered......drips every winter a bit. I put in a new o-ring last year and thought that would take care of it. Not the o-ring. I got her outside and let it warm up pretty good. Everything was looking good. No oil leaks, running smooth, it's a good day. Then I see the steam coming off the left side of the radiator. Not bad, just a wisp. Not acceptable. Got to looking and saw a wet spot at the bottom left corner. Tighened the hose clamp at the top to make sure it was dripping down the side. Nope. Pressure checked it and it's seeping at the lower corner alright. If I didn't have the bodywork off I never would have noticed it. It's not dripping, just boils off. So.........rather than scramble on eBay for another radiator....which may be better or worse than mine......I'm looking at pulling it and taking it to a radiator shop and have them go through it. Anybody had good luck with this type of approach? Or does anybody have a good radiator they want to part with? Man I was sooooo close to going for a ride. -
hi guys, I installed leveling links on my buddy's bike (I have a lot of friends who happen to ride RSV lol) his bike is a silver 2005 and it sits a lot lower than my 2006 and my other buddy's 2008 RSV. Even after installing the leveling links, it is much lower. I have 30" inseams and keep my rear shock at around 40 psi and when straddling the bike I'm on my balls of my feet, heels are off the floor. But on his bike, I'm flat footed on the floor. I have the Butler seat on mine and all 3 bikes are stock as far as suspension goes.. but the silver bike is that much lower.. Any ideas what might cause that? We tried measuring diff parts of the bike to see where the height difference was and we find that the trunk, read fender bottom, top of tank, top of front fender all have difference measurements.. So odd.
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I'm considering lowering my RSV, front and rear, and have a few of questions for those that have done it. I would like to ask those that haven't done it not to express their opinions. No offense, but I'm only looking for first hand experience from those who have (or have ridden) an RSV that has been lowered. Parts dragging: On a stock bike, in the twisties, the driver's floorboards are the first parts to drag. This is safe, as they're sprung. They also have non-rusting metal pieces at the contact points. On a lowered bike, does that change to the mufflers dragging first, before the floorboards? This is when leaned over, not upright going over speed bumps and wotnot. Shortening the kickstand: How is that done? Is the kickstand actually shortened, or is the front stop ground down, to make the kickstand go forward more? Does anyone have pictures of that mod? Lowering links and brake caliper relocation: I'd prefer to lower both the front and the rear by the same, one inch. The Baron's kit has links that lower the rear 1.5". Has anyone found links, on eBay or otherwise, that lower the rear an inch rather than 1.5"? And if I only lower the rear by an inch, do I still need to relocate the rear brake caliper? Lowering just the front: I've read that it helps low speed handling. Does it make the RSV twitchy at higher speeds? Highway traffic in ATL occassionally finds itself at 95+ (indicated). Stock, the RSV is rock stabile at speeds higher than that. Does that change?
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Hi all. I had an unfortunate collision today. I'm fine but the bike took a hit. I'm looking for a right lower cowling and a passing lamp assembly. Nothing on eBay. I checked the OEM listing and they want $245 for the lower. I haven't been able to fine the passing lamps. If anyone has any or knows a good place to purchase please let me know. I'd like to get her fixed ASAP. Thanks for any help.
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It was a beautiful day so I checked my bike out, bathed it, took some pics for the gallery and hit the road. It was a wonderful ride until a heavy crosswind caught me on I-65 and my fake tank top went sailing. I stopped and picked it up and scooted for an exit. Unfourtunately when I pulled off the exit, my short inseam kept me on my tippy toes and it started going down on the right side. :scared: I managed to throw that foot down and after two hernias, stopped the fall and manhandled it back up. :bowdown: How the heck can I lower this thing an inch or two?! I found that the tab on the top had been cracked almost through and the wind finished it. I am going to try some ABS glue. She is still in one piece, no new scratches and I am going to go lay down until all my muscles stop hurting.
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Hello to all my wonderful friends. Thanks for all your well wishes and prayers. Home from hospital and trying to adjust to all this metal on my leg!! I will wear it till the bone heals, which could be up to six months I wore the other one for eight months!! I have four metal rings around my lower right leg and attached to those are 12 wires going into the bone, and two bigger bolts going in to hold the bone out and in place in my shin. Biggest risk is infection, and I have to keep them clean and not allow the skin to attach to the wires etc. OUCH !! Doctor's think that because my knee doesn't bend anymore the leg chose the next weakest area to try and bend.....which was at the bone graft site. Once the leg heals I think I may have to wear some sort of brace on the lower leg to prevent it wanting to bend -- but that's okay, and better than not walking at all. So, will take some time to sit here at the 'puter for long, but the good thing is: I'M BACK
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Is there a trick to tighten the front lower exhaust bolts? How do you get to them?
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It seems like the connection between my J&M headset and the lower cable (cable-to-headset) is misbehaving. If I just let the cable hang from the helmet, tunes work fine, but the intercomm is very intermittent. If I tuck the cable inside of my jacket, it seems to relieve the tension from the connectors, and every thing work fine. What kinds of ingenious ways have you all come up with to insure that the connections stay solid? ALmost seems like I should be able to replace the connectors with some type of twist-lock connector...I'm even considering a hook&loop (velcro) fix..
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Puchased the Harbor Freight Motorcycle lift, rated at 1500#, today and tried it out with the Carbon One adapter. The url for the lift= http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2792 I had to pay $75 for the lift but it is worth it. The design is sturdy and the two step release to lower the bike works great - kinda odd because you have to press all the way down on the release lever to get it to lower slowly - normally you would think it would go faster all the way down - or maybe it is just me. Of course the adaptor worked just like everyone has stated before - perfect. The combination allows the task to be a solo adventure with no worries - just go slowly when lifting and allow the bike to stabilize before raising off the floor. I'm a satisfied customer. Jinksy
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I've got this set of lightbars that came with my '83 that I'll never have any inclination to use. Most of the lights work, but I think with alittle wiring work, that they'd all work....(I think) There are 3 rails in all, (2 for lower bags, and 1 for top box)...and the chrome is in very good condition. I'd like $150.00 ....that sound fair??? http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/2764/p1000222q.jpg http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/2382/p1000223.jpg -
As you may know I recently changed the rear tire. Took both bags off and had to disconnect the CD player. Now I have no audio. All other electrics seem to be fine. I disconnected the CD player and still no audio. Checked the "audio" fuse (behind the lower fairing) and it is good. Any thoughts? I thought I may have shorted something, but apparently since the fuse is good that is not the case. Just thought this may have happened to someone else. Thanks.
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Does anyone have a set of stock pillow-top seats they'd like to sell, or know of a set for sale anywhere for a reasonable price? After parking my RSV on a somewhat steep incline (to the left) this weekend, and not having enough inseam to get leverage to push it back off the side stand, I'd like to get myself lower in the bike. My first thought was to lower the bike, but I've already scraped floorboards in the twisties, so I'm hesitant to go that route. I'd like to get a set to send to Rick Butler to see if he can get me (and my wife) lower in the bike while still being well-padded. We really like the comfort of the stock seats, though, and want to keep a set in case the modifications don't work out for some reason, and I end up lowering the bike instead.
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If, on your lower cover on a '04 or later, your outboard screw standoff is cracked, your can substitute the spring nut from a '99 and the screw will have something to bite. While changing my antifreeze I noticed the standoff that holds the rubber nut was cracked. No way was it going to re-assemble. But the older 2 gens use a spring nut instead of the rubber nut. I figure as long as the engine guard braces have been installed, there shouldn't be a problem with the hard mount.
