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Hi All; My CB won’t turn on (no light) I have removed the rear trunk put the CB into the L/Saddle bag I cut I small grove in the side making sure no to pinch the wire. When I checked the plug that goes into the CB there is power in 2 holes. I had a amp installed by a radio shop in the front faring. Is it possible that they have cut into something that has to do with the power going into the CB switch on the handle bars. If yes, what can I do to fix it without going back to the radio shop. ???????????
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Trying to clean the carbs but I'm stuck on step number one. It says remove the choke knob. Now I've tried twisting it off and pulling it off but I really didn't have any luck with it. Tried taking a short cut but i would really like to follow the book. Sooooo. Does anyone know how to get that knob off of there?
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:cool10:This 11 year old kid created a social net work site that is kid friendly. His Dad was tired of all the bullying and curse words on face book and cut him off. So he got creative. If you want your kids on a safe site check this out. Please leave your thoughts here. http://www.gromsocial.com/ Joe
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Well yesterday I was finally feeling well enough to finish putting the R1 brake calipers with new pads on the 93 trike. At first it felt marginally better but not by much. I took it out for a test ride and after a few stops from varying speeds using the front brakes only (both sides) they starting getting better. By the time I got back home after about 20 miles I was able to cut down the stopping distance using front and rear by almost half of what it had before the change. Now as soon as I can save a few more dollars I will put the SS brake lines on, then see how much it improves. So far I only have $134.00 invested in this project.
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Have a 07 RSTD. It has the quick release back rest/lugage rack. Anyone every cut the sissy bar section off? Is it solid or hollow tubing?
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All, I'm differing to the vast knowledge of you guys. I've got a 2007 RSTD with a Hoppe Quadzillza fairing and every radio that I've mounted has cut out after a short time. The latest Kenwood has lasted the longest at just under a year. But they all start out the same, first the radio light will cut out but the unit still plays fine then after awhile the unit starts to cut out and restart itself, next it'll cut out and not work until I restart the bike. That's usually the point were I replace the thing but this one has now cut out completely. I may have a blown fuse and I'll look at it when I change to a taller windshield for the winter, probably this weekend. Now my questions are does anyone have any experience with an after market radio with a remote that can take the vibrations of a motorcycle, and would adding amps help with anything other than sound quality? Also has anyone used a Harley radio on a metric bike? Thanks in advance.
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I looked for this for a while. Haven't tried it yet and orginal poster is no longer around. I had to replace mine awhile back and I made my own from some 1 1/4" ID copper tubing. there are two ways to do it. 1) cut two pieces 1" long, split one longitudinally and slip it over the uncut one then solder the cut 2) cut a piece 1" long and then get a union sleeve, grind off the inside ridge and slip over the cut tubing. Works great, no problems or leaks for a couple years now.
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I just bought a '99 RSV, and the original owner had replaced the ignition switch, leaving me with a different key for the rest of the locks. My question is, since they are double-sided keys, if two locksets can be cut on the same key? I know there are more pins/tumblers in these locks, but on older Ford vehicles you could cut 2 different vehicle ignition keys on one key, one on one side, one on the other, it would require a blank key to start out with. Just an inquiring mind thing.
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My radio is giving me trouble and it is not always the same symptoms. Often is locks up completely or locks up partially. At times I will not be able to change channels or change settings. It does not seem to follow any pattern although I think it is better when you shut the key off and back on. Sometimes it will not play at all. Often times FM or AM stations will cut out when I open the throttle and immediately come back on when I let off (kinda sounds like a loose connection on this symptom). Any thoughts? Ryan
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I had a spare windshield laying around and being so hot outside the other day i decided to shorten it. First off I clamped it to my other windshield 5 inches lower with vice grips and masking tape underneath to prevent scratching.Than I contemplated on how to cut the windshield down without making a mess of it and decided on trying the router. I used a router bit with a bearing on it and set the depth just enough to cut through the one shield and not touch the other. It worked quite well. Surpriseingly it cut the plastic like butter and left a fairly smooth finish. It required just a lite sanding with 220 sandpaper to give the edge a smooth eye appealing finish. After mounting it I realized that the windshield is not quite as wide so there is a small space on either side. This doesnt bother me though. After I was complete I had to try it out. The extra wind is nice, I dont hear the clutch basket whine as much, the bugs now it my face, and there is some wind buffetting around my ears. All in all I am happy with the results. I will be putting my tall one back on in the fall.
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i was talking to a guy who had a venture and we were shooting the sh!t about pipes etc. he mentioned something about a saddlebag lid stuck closed??? he said a strap from a peice of luggage got looped around the locking mechanism and could not be opened IN ANYWAY. They cut through the side of the saddlebag to release it or something?? i guess anything could happen once, and i do not know what other methods they tried, but this sounded very bizarre to me and now i am paranoid. anyone ever heard of this??
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Does anyone have a picture of a stock muffler that has been cut open.I am confused about where to cut them. I have a set someone gave me,I don't want to mess my quite pipes up.
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Anyone know how I would cut the long tail part the bead seat.
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I have never been satisfied with the tail/turn/stop lights on my Harbor Freight trailer. I had changed the bulbs to LED's, but just not enough illumination, especially in the day-time. These were about $16.00 each at Wally-World. A bit of a challenge to mount, but I stuck with the measure twice, cut once rule. Well, I also cut the holes somewhat undersize then shaped them to fit the template I had made. Pretty much labor intensive, but I think the end result was worth the effort. I completed the install with wiring and connectors that I already had. I now have (additional) stronger lighting, located to be much more noticeable. I have some tidying up to do on the wiring, but it's basically completed. Pic 1- rough cut for left light (took a lot of patience and elbow grease to finish) Pic 2- some of the tools and "stuff" I used Pic 3- Hooked up with running lights and left turn signal on
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I want to put a fleece on my set just to cushion it up a bit, but don't want to cut it more than I have to. The best way to accomplish this would be to remove the driver backrest, so all I would have to do is cut about a 1 1/2" square out of it, slide it over the post and replace the backrest. There is a small screw at the top of the post that I would have thought would allow me to slide off the backrest, but it's still on there pretty good. I don't want to break anything so I'm not forcing it. Is there something else I need to do in order to remove it? The bike is a 2001 Royal Star. http://members.storm.ca/~cameron_antaya/ventureseat1.jpg http://members.storm.ca/~cameron_antaya/ventureseat2.jpg
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If anyone out there has a RSV trunk mounting bracket I need one. let me know and see if we can cut a deal. Thanks Joe
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info to cut down or cut out "gasohol" http://capwiz.com/amacycle/issues/alert/?alertid=51059636 http://capwiz.com/amacycle/issues/alert/?alertid=54681921 -
been working on a little project..... whadaya think? removed the silver diamond cut fins and replaced them with a set of rasberry painted to match the bike fins, then diamond cut them.... damn bryan!! it's all your fault!!
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does anyone have or know how/where to use led pods under the fuel tnk to light up the motor fins there dosent seem to be enough room there but i really want to highlight the cut fins and add that little extra bling:Venture:
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Well, I got my ignition emergency bypass switch wired in as well as the ignition relay and my relay for the driving lights (Special thanks to Dingy here!). Now, I want to install a relay for the headlight and I've run into a bit of confusion. I looked at a thread by wes0778 who did this work and he mentioned tapping into a Blue wire with a Black tracer to install the headlight relay. When I checked the simplified wiring diagram for the 2nd gen, it shows a Brown wire with a Blue tracer. I have the fairing split and have found a Blue/Black wire going into a plug from which exits a Red/Yellow wire. Now wes0778 cut the Blue/Black wire and put the "downstream" end to the 87 terminal (I assume that the downstream end is the one that goes into the plug and comes out as a Red/Yellow wire going to the dimmer switch- this is what the schematics indicate.) He then put the other end to the 86 terminal as his "switching" wire (He had a wire coming from the battery to the 30 relay already as do I). So...do I cut the Blue/Black wire or should I keep looking for a Brown/Blue wire? Anyone know? I'd hate to cut the wrong wire and wind up frying something...especially after doing all this work. Thanks Andy
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Well my body decided to give me a break and I was able to get back to working on the RSV. I have installed the accessory fuse block , the ignition relay and emergency bypass (Between the relay and ignition switch as per one of the schematics I found here, thank you) and have run a couple of 14 gauge "hot" wires from the new fuse block up to the fairing for the relay to the lights and one for ...well, whatever I think of next. Now I was about to remove the ignition switch to repair it since Mike (eusa1) has kindly offered to guide me through the work (Where else can you get this kind of help?) but, here's where I hit a snag. I don't have a bolt extractor so I was going to use a dremel tool to slot the bolt heads and use an impact driver to remove the bolts, but it looks as if even my smallest 15/16 in. wheel will cut into the switch housing before I have a usable slot. What size cut off blade did those who did it this way use? Also does anyone know what size bolts I'll need to replace the ones I remove? Or are they re-usable if I remove them this way? Once this is done, I'll be splitting the fairing to install a relay for the driving lights and headlight, but first, I want to complete this work.
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How much hacking is required to bring the floor boards to just behind the lower faring? \i've got 2 inches to bring back to fit. Just cut it down and weather strip the back end? Any ideas would be great
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lost one of mine of two and can't buy as a part; IT's a J&M full-face headset, part # 218127. If I can't find one will use some foam cut to fit the hole! LOL. Thanks all! Jack Z
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Sniped my first Ebay Auction tonight. After losing out by several dollars the last 2 times I figured out the system and with just seconds to go I pulled the trigger and gave it a nice head shot. Its an aluminum wall piece with patterns cut into it with a grinder. This guy, Jon Allen, makes some real nice stuff. Not bad for 61 bucks. http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Modern-Abstract-Metal-Wall-Art-Contemporary-Sculpture-/00/$%28KGrHqN,%21jkE3LlE-htKBOJh6MZg2%21%7E%7E0_1.JPG
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Add me to the list of those looking to find that Yami engineer that desperately needs my size 13 planted where the sun don't shine. So I read up all of the info I could find about changing the diodes in the TCI. I acquired a bunch of diodes for the job. Got all of the necessary tools ready. And dive in head first. There were some threads that made it sound like it would be not to bad to get the TCI out. I started with the suggestion that it can be done from the bottom without having to remove the air box, so that is where I went first. It should have been an ommen but the very first screw that I touched to remove the lower air scoop the hex hole stripped out, kind of my own fault, the last time I had that piece off to do an oil change I noted that the holes were very rusted and not much hex was left. Not a big deal, grab the Dremel with a cut off wheel and grind a slot for a flat blade screw driver. I took off the rest of the recommended parts to gain access to the TCI and sure enough, there it was starring at me. I thought Cool this ain't so bad. YEA RIGHT! I grab my Phillips bit and a ratchet to get the screws out, only to find out that someone must have been after the TCI once before, the screws were completely rounded out. By using the trick of putting some grinding compound on the tip of the bit to get extra traction I was able to get out the screw on the right side of the bike. The left screw just was not going to come out no matter what tricks I tried, none of which is helped by the fact that you can not even see the screw head. Enter plan 2; So since I can not get to that screw from the bottom I go ahead and pull out the air box. Cool now I can see more of the TCI but still can not get to that last screw. Enter plan 3; Grab a hack saw blade and go ahead and cut off the tab from the side of the TCI, (ain't NO way I am mounting it back up in that god awful place anyhow) Now that the TCI is out I'm off to the house and back into the A/C to do the diode swap. I took out the screws to reveal the bottom of the PCB. then take out the screws to release the PCB from the other half of the case and once again grab my trusty Dremel and make the cut to get the case open. Low and behold there are the diodes. every thing in the TCI looks like bran new, I was expecting to see the big globs of corrosion around the diodes like others have posted, but no these are clean and shiny looking like bran new. This got me to thinking, I wonder if the PO had the TCI replaced at some point before I got the bike and that is why the screws were stripped out. So I pondered this for a few minutes, should I just put it back together or doe the diode swap while I am in there???????? I finally decided to do the swap and was able to do the whole job without lifting any pads. I cleaned the board of all flux and other residue and reapplied a conformal coating to protect the circuits from moisture. I did notice that once I got the cover to the TCI off that there was a small puddle of water inside of the TCI!!!! I had washed the bike two days earlier. So I put a bead of sealant all around the perimeter of the case and sealed up the new seam that I created and sealed up the 2 small holes that Yami put there for no purpose other than to allow water in. Now time to put it all back together. First thing was to plug in the TCI and make sure that the bike still runs, WooHoo, it started right up and all 4 pipes got hot. So per the ideas posted here I cut a hole thru the inside of the faring and pulled the wire harness for the TCI thru the hole. It is plenty long to reach. then I got out some splices and heat shrink to repair the white with green stripe wire that I managed to cut thru while making the hole in the faring. oopie! I used some Velcro strips to attach the TCI to the inside of the faring. While I was in there I cleaned out all of the mouse droppings and nut and seed shells that the mice had left there for me. WTF the dang mouse was still in there. Well at least it is dead, that explains the "aromas" that I had been noticing when sitting a red lights. Got that mess all cleaned up, the rest of the reassembly went quite quickly and uneventfully. Once more start it up to make sure everything still works and Yippee, it does. So at least I don't have to worry about this issue for another 24 years. Now if it will just cool off enough so that I can take it for a ride. OK Rant over...... Back to you regularly scheduled programing.
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