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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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Has anyone here ever used the GROUND on the Kill Switch to control the Yamaha passing lights? Is this possible to do? I never use the Kill Switch, and it would, IMHO, be a good use for this particular switch ........ Any comments/info is welcomed!! Regards.....Boomer
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I was out for a quick ride before the winds got up and going up a moderate incline when the engine quit, like I had hit a kill switch. I am new to Ventures, mine is an 84. The guy I bought it from mentioned the switch activated by the side stand could cause problems. I messed with it on the side of the road, but couldn't get it to go. There's lots of gas and I've had no problems til now and it has run great. Any suggestions? '
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OK folks, before I tear the bike apart, I could use some advice. The patient is an 89 MkII that is new to me. Three different time I've had the bike die will running at highway speeds. The power down is sudden, and complete, no sputtering as if fuel was running out, more like the kill switch was hit. Once I've pulled the bike over, the starter has not wanted to spin, and I've heard and electrical "crackling" from under the false cover. If the bike is allowed to sit and cool down, it will happily start and run, at least until it gets hot. The first manifestation was at the end of a 150+ mile run with some GoldWing folks on Memorial Day, and then earlier in the week on the way back from the son's soccer game across town. Other symptom is a bad neutral switch. Thought I was stranded on the GW ride when the bike wouldn't turn over at all until I put the side stand up. Neutral indicators don't like to work well when the bike gets warm, work much better when the bike is cold. I've replaced the battery cables (about time, kinda like the cobbler's kids not having shoes!) and currently suspect two separate problems. First problem is the starting issue, and I'm thinking either bad solenoid (electrical "crackling" noise) or gummed up starter that doesn't like being hot. Could a bad sidestand switch be my culprit? I'm thinking about cleaning it out and possibly fitting a telltale light to the circuit to show that it is or is not working. Thoughts from the collective? (We are Venturers of Borg, you will be assimilated!) Thanks, Paul P.S. Sorry for the StarTrek joke, I'm a SciFi geek at heart!
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91 Venture Royale. My clutch switch broke. The rubber or plastic housing broke right where it goes into the clutch lever assembly. I ordered a new one. My questions are; Where does the other end of the switch wire terminate? The guy at the shop said it was probably behind the headlight. Anybody know for sure? If I'm into the headlight area, should I replace my 17-year-old bulb? Is there a brighter-than-stock replacement bulb that will work and won't overload my system? Thanks
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What is the story with that hole. I heard it was for a manual choke but i already got one on the left handlebar. I want to put a switch there for my driving lights. Is this gonna happen? Do they make them skinny enough to fit that hole and and enough room for the 3 blades underneath? An inquiring mind wants to know and also plug that annoying hole! PS. I forgot to tell you where the hole is. It is the one next to the ignition switch. -
Today When I Went To Start My Scoot, Turn Key On And Heard A Buzzing Sound Coming Down Around The Battery. After Searching For The Sound Found It To Be From The Starter Circuit Cut-off Relay. Locate Under The Right Hand Side Panel (little Blue Relay With Four Wires Into It). Went To My Dealer And He Pulled One Off Of A 08 Model (same Number On Part). When I Replaced The Relay The Buzzing Was Still There. This Relay Is Wired To The Kickstand Switch , Clutch Switch And Neutral Switch. Does Anyone Have A Idea On Where To Look Now. Cannot Find The Other Connectors To Disconnect The Three Switches One At A Time To See If I Can Isolate The Problem Causing The Buzzing Sound. Thanx For Your Info Horse
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Hello all, Well, I went to go for a ride yesterday and I guess my Sidestand switch bit the dust. Flatout has them for $44, is that about the best place, or... Thanks D
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I am new to this site but find it a wealth of information. Thanks to all Here's my poblem I recently got a 1983 Venture I posted the Vin# here last week and I think it is the first off the line. but thats not my problem. when I got it it had set for about 3 years. It runs OK and looks good but after my inspection I decovered no brakes on the rear. so I ordered a rear master cylinder and last night rebuilt the master. all went well lines bleed out and now have good brakes. I thought while it is in the shop I should change the oil and filters at the same time. I drove the bike in the shop it started and run good. after I changed the oil it would not fire up. It turns over good, it's getting gas I though that it may be a stuck switch so I traced all the wires to the switches sidestand, clutch, neutral switch even the emergency stop switch all check out and still no fire I removed all the fairing and checked the wiring to the TCI module all looked ok to but just no spark. as a way to test the TCI module i removed the Kill wire black/white stripe wire check power in and ground all ok . with the kill line off the bike should fire up and run. No luck on fire. It looks like the TCI module just went bad but before I spend $900 on a new TCI mod I would like to here for some of you. Is their a way to test the TCI mod to be sure if it is ok or not. Is their something that I am missing that will keep it from starting As I said it turns over ok just no spark. but i drove it in the shop any comments you have would be welcomed I need to order the TCI module before Tuesday to have it by the end of the week. Thanks for the input
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We had a gorgeous day here yesterday for April about 27 c and not much wind cruising around town through the parks and happened on a police spot check. Got pulled into the check lane, had an officer walk up and ask me to shut the engine off and give him my registration and DL. No probs i kll the engine , put the kick stand down and get my wallet to pull out my docs while the LEO is checking my lights, signals, brakes etc. meanwhile I am trying to balance my docs and wallet while doing this stuff he is asking. Finally we get done with the check he hands everything back to me, i put my wallet away, get set to go flip up the stand and nothing. I tried everything thought my lights were on bright and got a bad switch, or the switch on the kick stand was shot but no go. Meanwhile theres cars behind me in the lane so I have to push my ride off to the side to try to figure out what was wrong. I checked everything from top to bottom and was ready to call a tow company when I remembered what I had read in this forum about the KILL switch and how some guys have forgotten to turn it back on. Well, thats me, was I embarrassed. Usually i let the switch for the kick stand kill the engine so i know that the stand is down and locked before I tilt the bike one its side, but my routine got messed up when I killed it with the switch. AARRGGHHH! so frustrating when you have a brain fart! Brian :cool10:
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My 86 Royale will hold the air pressure forever as long as I don't switch the key off accessories. As soon as I switch it off and back on again the pressure is gone. If there were any leaks I should see it drop but the pressure is maintained as long as I don't swith the key off. Can anyone offer an explanation? I am tempted to install manual valves on the lines that I can swith to the closed position after pumping the air into the suspension. It is the only problem that I have that prevents me from a complete restoration of my beloved bike. Chris
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I discovered the other day that my left side blinkers weren't blinking, Checked the bulbs front and back which were good. Then discovered that lead (black & Brown) to left rear blinker had been pinched and shorted. I repaired the lead, checked and replaced fuses as needed. Now niether side blinks and no rear lights other then tail light. Front running lights are on but neither blinks, Nor does the blinker indicators on the dash. The hazard switch doesn't seem to do any thing. But it reads ok when doing pin out test. I thought that since I've been caught in several rides lately in the rain that moisture and/or corrosion might be a factor. :lightbulb:oh yea!. Wasn't that the problem that someone else was having on the North Ga 2nd Annual M&E that was covered in detail on that thread last week? :scratchchin:The problem did show up after I trusted 86ers weather report for that ride. Note to self: Go back and reread that thread. I Have taken turn signal switch apart, cleaned and reassembled. I believe I have narrowed it down to the signal flasher relay and/or Canceling unit but am not sure exactly which device is which. Tracing out color coded wiring it appears to me that both devices are combined together within the same little Black box. Is that possible? -
Got to thinking about it when Sledgehammer changed his name. Well, it seemed kind of awkward if someone were to shout across a parking lot, "Hey u-s-s-45!" so I thought about it and decided to switch names and Switch sounded reasonable and had a good ring to it so Freebird was good enough to change it for me. Thanks much, Don.
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O.K. I figured out why my battery is showing such low voltage and then hight voltage on the dash volt meter. The back brake light is not always going off. I am trying to make heads or tails out of the manual but I can not seem to find where the switch is for the brake light. I need to know where the pedal sensor is and the grounding point for the circuit. It appears that both the handle and the pedal cause a drain on the system and the light stays on most of the time after I let off the brake. After several giggles or a few jars on the road the light goes back off. I am wondering if it is a ground issue rather than a switch. If I knew where each of the switch parts were and where the ground connection was, I could try some more troubleshooting but I can not tell from the manual. Anyone else had a similar issue?
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Has anyone ever had their ignition switch to freeze up? Mine did. Went to a NAPA shop across the street and got a tube of graphite and put it in several times before the key started working, the switch did it again four times before I could get to the shop. They are going to replace it,I hope with s lock that will match my key. Covered under warrenty,cost $185. Hope I never have to pay for one. tew47
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06 RSTD, 22k miles. ridden daily and dealer maintained (maint contract). anyway- went out Saturday morning - nothing happned when i hit the start button. checked the kill switch (was set for run) and neutral light (was green) - kickstand - was down. hit it again - nothing. lights don't dim. horn & signals work! played with various combinations of clutch lever, kick stand, gear position, kill switch, ignition switch - still nothin. in gear - bump the engine several times - more of the same. after a 4 hour wait for the tow truck - but that's another VERY FRUSTRATING STORY!!!! - scoot was hauled to the local dealer. "o yea" says my favorite tech "it started right up when it got here!"... good thing he beleives me - said they'll take it apart and have a look see.
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Well I have the factory light bar for my bike but I'm still waffling on what switch to buy. So far I've gotten a switch to put in the fairing but changed my mind so I bought a billet switch to mount on the handlebar. Now I don't think I want that one either. Bummer recommended the Kuryakyn switch that mounts on the master cylinder. I like it but haven't seen one in real life. Does it slide over the master cylinder reservoir or simply sit on top? http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/images/image_18259_200.jpg Here is another brand. It looks like it either slides over the reservoir or is a replacement. Note the cover is on top. I'm really interested in this one because it looks like I can mount my Hoon XM radio mount on top. Anyone know about this style? http://www.wingstuff.com/pgroup_detail/361_Accessory_Switches/20159_Chrome_Brake_Side_LED_Accessory_Switch_Block/?goto=%2Fpgroup_list%2Fgl1800%2F361_goldwing_Accessory_Switches%2Fdes%2F http://www.wingstuff.com/images//store1/pgroups/20159_image1.gif
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On my last bike I spent 336.00 for a light bar just wasn't going to do it this time. so after a little thought this is what I came up with Platnium Burners $16.95 Kury 1" Clamps $19.95 ea Billet switch $34.00 (more than I wanted to spend but first switch wouldn't fit, do-dad switch) Roll of hose cover $5.95 1/4" acorn nuts $2.95 ea Misc. scrunged wire and connectors free Lights the road real well and fits the look of the bike I think http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l190/Arcs_Sparks/CIMG2660.jpg http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l190/Arcs_Sparks/CIMG2661.jpg http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l190/Arcs_Sparks/CIMG2662.jpg http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l190/Arcs_Sparks/CIMG2663.jpg
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First off, a BIG Thank You to bongobobny for the parts I needed!! Next - dumb question time. How do you get the switch out of the clutch lever mount??? Mine is broken off, with a piece still in the mount. I wondered why the cruise wasn't working! I must be having a Senior Moment Attack, I can't get the @$&^*# piece out!! What holds the switch in place??
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After installing a Stebel air horn. My bike cranks w/o hitting the start button. Prior to adding the horn we had to have a "before" sound. Key was on and start was hit instead of horn and the chasis ground arked. Testing done so far: Start switch, Relay, Kick stand safety, clutch switch. HELP!!!!!! I have no idea where to go from here HELP
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:detective:I want to install the factory passing lamps but wish to get them off the ignition switch. Relays have been mentioned and I wanted to know why a relay. Couldn't you wire direct to the accessory post and switch them as intended beside the 12 volt plug? Could some one go over the wiring from the start.
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I would like to thank Beer 30 for assisting me today. While riding to Jacksonville, NC from Havelock (bout a 45 min drive) I was just about at my destination when my bike died while sitting at a red light. I was worried because I was using a heated vest and gloves for the first time, along with the stereo, and passing lights. While sitting there trying (without success) to restart my bike I just knew I had drained the battery or trashed the electrical system. My wife rode her bike to our destination and got Beer 30 to come back and assist her stressed out husband with his disabled scoot. When Beer 30 arrived I stood there tools in hand ready to dissassemble the bike to find the problem. As he looked it over and made his assessment of the malfunction he graciously suggested that I place the kill switch in the run position WALLAH it started . I did not know I had hit the kill switch and was TOO wrapped up in all the damage I thought the new electrical toys had caused to think things out when trying to restart the bike. As we both stood there in the rain laughing he smiled and said my secret was safe with him. Thanks Beer for assisting me and, better yet, "Keeping it simple!" Jerry:thumbsup: As for me trying to start it with the kill switch on.... well....my wife is still laughing and I don't think she'll let me forget this for awhile
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I am a novice at this stuff but can follow directions with the best of them. I have two sets of after market lights from Wally World that I have mounted on the deflectors and foot pegs. Now I have to wire them. I want to have the first set on all the time the headlight is on (both high beam and low beam). Also want to be able to turn them off when working on the bike etc. so will probably need to place a switch somewhere. I want the second set to be on only when high beam is on. Don't think I will need a switch for this set. How, what and where I wire them in is what I need to know. What colors wires are what on the bike? How and where do I wire them into the bikes wiring? How and where do I mount a switch. Can I do it without splitting the fairing? Remember I am a newbie to this bike and while I am not totally mechanically challenged neither am I an engineering genius so instructions must be simple to follow. Thanks for any help with this
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Hi, Headlight on 83 VR used to work ....both high and low beam, stopped working on high this fall , therefore high beam warning lite stays on.... I'm assuming switch on left handlebar might be bad... Not the greatest light beam now..., but I am going to look at painting inside of headlight cover as suggested and I'm replacing driving lights soon too... Still a well functioning high beam would be nice... Anyone had to replace switch???? Running wires as well as choke cable look interesting ..... Clay
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Happy New Year I have a sirrius satellite hooked up to a mini amp on my rstd. My Wife bought me a zumo 550 for Christmas. Question is, If I get the antenna and switch to xm, does the antenna broadcast fm to the radio? Thanx Mark
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I'm planning to install some extra driving lights on my bike.....I don't want to connect them to my headlight ..but I want to use a switch ... what kind of switch can I use that is not to expensive.
