Jump to content

Squeeze

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,716

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    MAN !! !! I just readed " Biker Dead in the Bike Shed! " ... Please don't do that to me no more .... As for your non-Start ... i second Marcarl's Statement
  2. Squeeze
    Hi, i'm really sorry for you. I've never seen a 11mm Allen Key. Maybe your Socket is worn ? As for how do i get that $%/§(")$=)Bolt out ? Take a Torx Drive Socket, choose a slightly bigger One, maybe a TX 25(?) or a TX 30(?) and hammer it into the stripped Allen Head Bolt. Now, with a Lot of Pressure towards the Bolt, open it with one nice and crisp Turn.
  3. Squeeze
    Hi, the Part off Ebay is the Vacuum Sensor for Spark-Advance. Sorry for your Loss Tim, but it surely could have been worse.
  4. Squeeze
    Hi, did you place a copper Washer under the lowest(6-o-Clock-Position) Bolt on the Tranny Cover ? This Bolt needs this Washer or Oil will drip out constantly.
  5. Squeeze
    Vmax rear Rim Size is 3.5x15 stock Tire is 150/90 R 15
  6. Squeeze
    Hi Rick, the Gears from the FJR are the same as Vmax, Ratio 10/33. On a FJR Casing, there is no Hole for the lower Shockbolt(Vmax has Stereo Shocks) and no Hole for the Speedo Pickup(2Gen Venture). The FJR has the Speedo Pickup mounted somewhere on the Outlet of the Transmisson. And yes, some Vmax Riders convert to Venture final Drives, because after changing the Wheels from Stock to 17 Inch Rims, the Revs go up by 500 RpM in 5th Gear. I personally ride the Venture Drive with FJR1300 Rims on my Max and finally, i do like the lower Revs in 5th Gear, but dislike the Loss of Accelaration in the other 4 Gears. I don't know what John Furbur does to the final Drives. It seems to be obvious, but i never would say that until i'm sure of his Actions. But if so, there is some Work to do, one needs a 'special Tool' to unlock the Nut on the Pinion Gear and some new Bearings and/or new Oil Seal and so on. Not that big Earnings if you do it for a Living.
  7. Squeeze
    Hi Jeremy, as i know from other Bikes, such a better, the better said massiver, Forkbrace can only help in Situations where there is Movement between left and right Forkleg. That's where more Material improves the Stabilty and helps moving left and right Forkleg parallel. In other Words, when going through a Curve and there is a Lot of Movement on the Legs, maybe by poor Pavement, there the Superbrace helps to keep the Legs on the same Point on Compression which means also on the same Point of Force to the Springs. That's important, because the Springs are progressive and any Difference in the traveled Way will result in not the same Ammount of Force on each Leg. I'm sure you do not understand what i'm trying to say:080402gudl_prv:, so therefor an Explanation. If you put a new Forkspring from Progressive in the left Leg and keep the old, worn Spring in the right Leg, everytime the Fork compresses and rebounds, there Travel of the left and the Right Leg would be different. Because the Springs are different Material, different wound and the overall Lenghts are different also. So once you got Movement on that Fork, the Superbrace with it's thicker Material helps to straighten this out and helps to keep the lower Legs parallel. But nevertheless, there will be a Movement which cannot be wiped out by the Brace, so the different Movements will cause Force on the Wheel Spindle. As long as the Spindle can handle this Force, there will nothing bad happen. If the Force exceeds what the Spindle can Handle, the Forklegs will start to move different and this will cause the front End to Weave, Wobble or Stumble, whatever you may call it. On a straight Line, where should more massive Material help stabilizing the Forks ? Of Course, any Difference between left and right Leg could cause such Problem also. Air Pressure, Oillevel, Oilwight and so on. Did you ever open all the Pinch Bolts on the Spindle and Tripple Tree and retorque them from Bottom to Top ??
  8. Squeeze
    Hi, final Drive Ratio is all the same on all the Ventures, from '83 to 2007. It's 9/33 Ratio. Vmax, FJR has a 10/33 Ratio. There are different Casing, depending on Shock Bolt or not and Speedo-mounting Hole or not. Only Thing what you could do, is looking for a rear tire, which has a bigger Circumference. This would reduce the RpM on a given Speed. I don't know if there is any fitting Tire, which would fit to the Wheel also. On the Vmax, we allways look for more performant and radial Tires, these are only 17" Rims, these Tires, which one can use are mostly 180/55R17 or 190/50R17 ahve a smaller Circumference than the Stock Tire 150/90R15. So the RpM rises on a given Speed. This can be cured with a Venture final Drive. My Expirences are, keep your 1Gen Design and do not change anything. If i had the Time and Parts, i would fit a complete '93 1Gen Tranny in my Vmax Engine. Or a least the 5th gear of 2Gen and go back to Vmax final Drive. The 1Gen's Tranny is imho the best Option because the Gears are spreaded at best. The Vmax Tranny is short on 1st to 3rd Gear, 4th is ok and 5th is a bit too short either. On my '93 Venture, i would give a Vmax rear Drive a try, because i allways ride with my Lady on the Backseat, not so fast and way more cruising Style than when riding alone.
  9. Squeeze
    Quite funny, but there is a Difference... Those Cagedrivers are just having a crunched Motor, a Rider would have a crunched Head, Leg and other more or less serious Injuries, besides a wrecked Bike. THAT'S a huge Difference
  10. Squeeze
    Hey, i don't doubt that ... Did you check and adjust the Float Hight ?
  11. Squeeze
    Hi, that's a normal Behaviour of your Fuel Pump. Seems to be an Safety Issue. btw, very good Idea, so, you can check the Float Valve AND check the Float Level without the Hassle of taking them in and out, dismount, put them in and out again ...
  12. Squeeze
    Hi, i just put a HID in my Vmax, altough it is forbidden here in Germany, i won't go back to H4. AMAZING Look, AWESOME Sight, very good Light and best Safety Device i've ever mounted. My '93 is still waiting for the other half of the Car Set i purchased, some Service and the new Windshield which is on it's Way ... i will do at Write-Up of the Installing in the Venture. On the Vmax, it was a pretty neat Job, 30 Minutes and i was ready to go. Only Problem was, i bought a Bi-Xenon Set and these "Bulbs" are 3/4 Inch longer on the inside, where normally the Connector sits. I needed to cut out some Recess in the Bowl of the Headlight. Nothing bad at all. I set the Beam to a lower Position as with a H4 Bulb, to avoid bedazzling oncoming Traffic. Even in this Position, i can see much more than before. I bought a cheap Set off Ebay. There is another Thread discussing this Issue. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=11930&highlight=Xenon I don't know about the Rules in US, but sincerly, i would drop any other Light and save the Current for other Purpose. The Set you linked above seems a bit pricey, there are cheaper Sets on Ebay. Look out for white or yellow lightcolour. 4300K is bright White, 3400 K is more yellow. The yellow Ones have some more Lightpower than the bright White and the other Colors will burn down to white during Use anyways.
  13. Squeeze
    There should be an Error also, mybe 2.5 to 3 Percent, but not more. Main Thing the huge Difference is, because the newer Nikes have the Speedo-Signal taken from either Engine Output or, like the 2Gens, on the final Drive. So, they count how often the rear Wheel turns. Regardless if the Wheel spins over the Ground or not. At least, 3 Percent Slip is normal for Bikes. On the 1 Gen, the Spedo Pickup is on front and there is almost no slip. So only Thing what can make up Errors on counting is the Gears ov the Pickup and mechanical Issues, as the Tires do not have the same Diameter.
  14. Squeeze
    You can synchronize the Carbs only on the Bike and running on Idle or some RpM above Idle. But, again, it won't help much if done before cleaning the Carbs .... Download the Workshop Manual, the Source can be found here in the 1Gen Tech Section and read the Carb-Section.
  15. Squeeze
    This is from a third Thread you started at 07/29/2007 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13137 Man, i understand that your Kind of afraid of messing with the Carbs, especially when you have no other Ride or Cage. But, as long as you do not give the Carbs a serious Maintainance, you can not expect anything more as they are performing right now. The Ammount of extra Money in Gas you're burning every Day, makes a Day of prepared Work and some Parts going more far away than anything else. Get yourself a Balancing Tool, i'd prefer neither Mercury Stick or Carbtune, just four plain simple old styled Dial Guages and clean the Carbs and synchronize them and be pleased. If you're willing to afford the extra 25 Bucks for a Compression Tester, ok, go for it. But better go for Guages first.
  16. Squeeze
    Hi, i'd suggest some serious Crab(didn't misspell that) cleaning and a check of everything afterwards. Wrong Float Level can bring the mpg down, but this far? I doubt that. After the Bike sitted that long, Seafoam can work some Kind of Wonders, but not on the Air-Jets and the Air Ducts. You plug them to the Draining Hoses and open the Drain-Valves on the Carb-Bowls. The the Ign-Switch to ON and they Fuel Pum will do what she has to do. Fill the Bowl and the Tubing.When the Pumps stops you can measure the Float Hight versus the Mark on the Side of the Diaphragm-Bowl.
  17. Squeeze
    You're right, i'm not only under the Impression, i say so ... Glykol-Ether based Fluids are mixable.
  18. Squeeze
    Hi, could you please give us a brief Statement about your Bike ? As i remember, there was a Diskussion in another Thread, you mentioned that you're running 4 single Filters, constantly under Seafoam and with at least one patched Diaphragm ? You wanted to bring in the Airbox in and remove the single Filters, did you ? Where Plugs new before or after beginning with Seafoam ? Is the Slide sticking lately or not ?
  19. Squeeze
    Hi, there is (should be) a rubber Damper between the Tube on which the culprit O-Ring is attached to and the Oilpan. Seems that this part disappeared on both of Randy's Engines. This Rubber should press the Tube upwards and hold the Tube in Place. If there is nothing, the Tube is forced downwards by the Oilpressure and the O-Ring bulges out. Once there is only an small Piece of the O-Ring outside, there is no Way back. Part-Number of the Damper is 26H-15366-00-00 Grommet, it is #13 in the Yammi IPC of the '83 XVZ12TK, Oilpump-Sheet. Number 10 in that Sheet is the culprit O-Ring.
  20. Squeeze
    I believe they will fit in your Carbs, but i never had a '83 Carb-Set on the Bench ...
  21. Squeeze
    I really don't know if they use it in U.S., but here, we use a Ultrasonic Cleaner for cleaning the Carbs lately. Most Dealers have one, even if they are not brand-specific and more the Backyard Type. It works really good, you need to take the Carbs apart anyways, at least split them in half and take the Bowls off, but the Result of 15 Minutes in such a Cleaner are amazing. They work with Water and some Chemistry, depending on what you have to have cleaned. The Principle is based on ultrasonic Sound, which cause Cavitation in the Water, and by Work of the imploding Molecules, the Gunk is breaking loose. I recently bought a big, industrial Type, for cleaning some Parts of my Trucks, but it could be used on Carbs also. :D If you carry your Carb-Set to a Dealer, you'd probably hear a Call of some 80 Dollars for the Job.
  22. Squeeze
    Hey Folks, i didn't feel offended in any Ways. Therefore no need to apologize. It's just like i wrote. In some Situations, even in technical Discussions, one can't translate one Language to another Word by Word. The english Language uses a lot of different Terms, that's while chatting and in technical Matters. Also my Grammatics is poor, i know that. As i never sat a foot on a english spoken Country, it is quite challenging to write in english Terms, and like it happened here above, sometimes i have to work and only Time for a short Answer. Until now, i thought 'better a short Answer than nothing', but after i rereaded the Thread and read how an english spoken describes the same Issue, i felt ashamed. And, maybe in some Sadness also, i did write my Quote. I like Jokes and love to laugh, even about my myselves, but this made me thinking about what am i doing here. I have no right to blame anybody about my Language than myself. Like Norbert Haug, Director of Motorsports for Daimler-Benz and McLaren-Mercedes Formula1 Team, used to say, 'there is a Lot of Room for Improvement' :D And, as you might have noticed meanwhile, i can't keep my Mouth shut. Maybe a bit more closed than before, not meaning to held back anything, but to make sure that it is understable what i have to say. Anything other would make my Time and Effort worthless for the Guy who needs an Answer. And for those who won't get my Quote, there is a 'Ignore'-Button, which can be used.
  23. Squeeze
    Hi Folks, as for the Ranges in which each Carb-Subsystem is working... Just try to see them as a Stack of the Subsystems. The Idle-System handles more or less 10 Percent of the total Ammount of Fuel and Air. The above Idle to 1/4 of the Total is run by the Pilot Jets, Air and Fuel with around 15 Percent of total Mixture Control these 15 Percent go on Top of the 10 Percent the Idle System handles, and add up to a total of around 25 Percent of the grand Total. So, if there is something wrong in one of the Subsystems, the whole System, the grand Total, allways is effected. But, more or less effected, depending on what Subsystem is the Culprit. Because there is no sharp Edge in the Subsystems, a Problem in one Subsystem effects also the next Subsystem which makes a Problem hard to find. Example: Lets say there are the Pilot Fuel Jets a bit clunked. So there is not enough Fuel to pass through the Jets. e.g. 25 Percent less Fuel. So, in the Idle Range 25 Percent Loss of Fuel is a huge Loss, a very lean Mixture. This huge Ammount of lean Mixture, the Motor won't run good and responsive at Idle. When this Engine is revving at full Throttle and fully open Slides, this doesn't make a big Difference, because there is missing only 25 Percent of 10 Percents Share of the grand Total. As seen from the grand Total, there are only missing 2.5 Percent Fuel at full Throttle, because the other Subsystems are not clunked and deliver Fuel as they should. So A/F Ratio isn't effected that much and the Motor runs fine. If Idle-System and above Idle System would be fully clunked, there would be 25 Percent of the normal Fuel missing. This would make the Engine run very lean and the Rider would feel it, without a Doubt. I hope you understand what i'm trying to explain.
  24. Squeeze
    Hey Randy, there is nothing to thank for. I agree with you, the Gap of a bulged O-Ring is significant smaller than your bulged and broken O-Ring did open. Probably your Theory about the less or not pressurised Chain-Tensioners and the Loss of Oilflow, caused by that huge Gap is right. But there is Good News. As you mentioned, the main Bearings and the Conrod-bearings are not affected, and this is really good News. I keep my Fingers crossed and hope that your bring everything togehter and working before it's Time to leave for Vogel. Especially, bringing the lower Casing back on and everthing working is a very tricky Job. Better you should have six Arms and 20 Fingers each, Wire, Pincers and cold blooded Hands. Once you made that, it's just wrenching and a Matter of Time.
  25. Squeeze
    Hi Randy, i can imagine perfectly what you described and this is, imho, a quick and good Solution. I wouldn't say that this the best Solution, but it's cheap and simple enough to make it in my personal Top 3 in curing this Dilemma. If the Wire you used is a special Wire, made for such Purpose, there is a good chance that you will find it in eight Years from now on as you left it today. Other than such Kind of Wires, i wouldn't trust for more than Months. As for the Problem itself, as i wrote in the Thread, it is a known Problem and before Randy did unveil it at his Engine, i thought this was known by almost everybody who owns such a V4 and i never thougt of mentioning it, because that would bring on nothing new. and to make my Toughts clear: Yes, there is a Problem, more or less 90 Percent of the Vmax-Engines opened for Research did have the O-Ring out of Place Yes, the Design of all the other Engines are the same Maybe, the Parts are improved on the 2Gen's Yes, if the O-Ring is out of Place, there is a substancial Loss in Oilpressure and Oilflow, the more the Oil is hot, the more those Losses add up Yes, i think this could make a Motor going bad or, at least if there is another Culprit, this O-Ring Problem doesn't help either No, i don't think it's Time to panic Yes, if you're working near the Oilpan, i would undo it be prepared to check and cure the Problem
×
×
  • Create New...