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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. I'm not 100 Percent sure about my Understanding of your Question, but ... i'd say yeah, that's what's happening. If you traveled at 60 mph at, maybe 2800 RpM, after the exchange, the RpM at 60 raises to 3300. Please don't keep my for the Value's at all, i don't know the Facts of the 2Gen. On the Max the Drop at a given Speed in 5th Gear is actually 500 RpM. The Exchange on a 1Gen would rise the RpM for the same 500 RpM.
  2. That insures that the Voltage is always above draining Battery Voltage. It applies only for Bikes after 1985, because the Anti-Dive is operated by Electrics and this put a fair Amount of Load on the Charging System. 83-85 was the Anti-Dive operated by Hydraulic.
  3. That's it ... When changing the final Drive Ratio, the actual Loss or Gain is at Topspeed. The 2Gen will have a lower Topspeed in 5th, my Max gained Topspeed. Don, you can calculate the Speed in Gears, by using this small Proggie, http://www.schmidt-sven.de/page/geardata.zip Just enter all the Data of your 2Gen, provided by the Manual, don't forget, there is also a Ratio in the middle Drive Gears, 21/27 on the 1Gen and Maxxes, and precompute them in the primary Ratio, then you can enter the actual Gear-Ratio,10/33 or 9/33, in the secondary and directly compare the Output Sheets by convert the .bmp Output-File in gif, add Transparency and lay them over each other in Photoshop or a similiar Program. Short Translation of the Parameters you need to enter: Felgendurchmesser - Rim-Diameter Reifenbreite - Tire width in mm Querschnitt - the Tire-Width/Height Ratio Schlupf - Tire Slipage vs Ground 3 Percent is standard for Motorcycles, when you go faster than 260 km/h, you need to increase that Value to at least 4.5 Percent Reifenumfang - Tire-Circumference Ritzel - front Gear of the secondary Gear Ratio here it's 9 or 10 Kettenrad - rear Gear of the sondary Gear Ratio, thats 33 Primär - here's to enter the computed Value from primary Reduction and middle drive Gears Gänge - here is to enter the Ratios of each Trans-Gear first to 6th Gear, we dont need the 6th, so shut that off in the last Column bottom left can a Pointer be set an a specific Gear and RpM Berechnen - press to compute the Data ... Sorry there is no english Version, it's all in german and with metric values ...
  4. [ame]http://www.troutman.org/ftp/pub/motorcycle/videos/UpOnOne_Blown_V-Max.wmv[/ame]
  5. Hi, from what i expierenced with both Bikes, i wouldn't put a Vmax Tranny in a Venture. imho, the lower Gears are a bit too short for a Venture. Better Choice might be a Vmax rear End and the Venture Gears. Other than my Toughts, in that Ebay-Offer is the outgoing angled Gear missing. As those Kind of Gears are allways made to matched Pairs, i wouldn't use that Gear with another, unmatched Gear. If these Gears, dued to this unmatched fit, are going to block, you might need a Lot more Parts to fix the Bike. This could get dangerous. As i have read here, the Vmax/86 to 93 rear Ends might not fit to a 83 Model, maybe because of different Driveshafts, but this should specified from someone knows that for sure. Probably, the newer rear Ends need also the newer Driveshafts.
  6. I've seen a Video on a Vmax from UK, where you can see the Tach and the Speedo while running at 60 mls and then .... pulled the Trigger :rotf::080402gudl_prv: If i would be allowed here, i sure would have installed a NOS-System ... I think, i have that Video at Home. If i can find it, i'll post it later.
  7. Hey Don, congrats on your Decision. I'm confident that you're doing the right Thing to tune your Bike to your personal Satisfaction. I've done exactly the reverse Exchange on my Max after fitted 17 Inch Wheels. This Rims lifted my standard RpM's by about 500. With installing a Venture Rear End, these 500 RpM came back and lowered the Consumption a bit. Plus, because there is plenty of Power, the lower RpM-Level is making the Ride a bit smoother and a bit less louder than before. Only Negative is the Loss of this tiny Bit of Startup-Power at Redlight, but i'm eating up nearly every Contender anyways ... :whistling:
  8. Well, installing a NOS-Set woudn't be the biggest Problem at all .... Go for it and make an Writeup with Pics while proceeding ...
  9. Hey Eck, you're right, i misunderstood in at the first Quote, after that i reread the Post and realized my Fault, but i couldn't edit my Posting because of something bad happened right in the Moment ... After i get this Incident straighted out, it just plain forget to edit my Posting one Hour later ... sorry .... i'm stupid ...
  10. it's this Manual, 1986-1993 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=29719&postcount=1
  11. Hey, of Course you're talking about AC-Voltages and Currents, when it comes down to the 3 Wires out of the Stator, please don't forget to state that. Everything after the R/R is DC.
  12. I did research the Workshop-Manual, which i got downloaded from here, and the newer, Blade Type Fuses were stated in the Manaul ... So, they are stock ...
  13. You will need Injectors which provide more than 280 ccm per Minute while using the designated Fuel-Pump. I'm in process of upgrading my Max next Winter. I already got a Computer and Throttle Bodies. You can modify those of a GSX-R 750, earlier Years. I got Bodies from a V-Engine Honda, but they have also be fairly modifed. I didn't found other Bodies from a EFI-V Engine. Fuel-Pump should provide 3 Bar Pressure and it might be usefull to get a Pressure Regulator with a closed Fuel-System. Hardest Part is to program the Maps. You will need a O2-Sensor to determine the actual Amount of O2 in the Exhaust and recorrect the Maps for better Performance and less Consumption.
  14. Hi, the Temp-Issue might not be an Issue at all.... I read here, some Weeks ago, a Thread in which someone mentioned that Yammi did some Work on the Guage of the early Models, just because a Lot of Owners were worried about the high Temps displayed... They worked it out when changing something on the Guage, so the Needle elevates no more at that Level near the red Line..... the Cooling System wasn't changed. Anyways, if the Fan kicks in sometimes, it shouldn't be a Problem. Just keep your Eye on that and hear what's happening. Just enjoy your Ride and keep, at least, one Wheel on the Road.
  15. here's the new Thread ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=12491
  16. Hi, all good Advise was writen before. Make sure that Wire is in the Crankshaft when replacing the next Stator. It's the Oil-Distributor to get the Stator cooled while the Engine's running. After replacing, don't fool arround and go over to an Car Electrician. They shall take a Look at all Voltages, AC and DC, and all Currents with an Oscilloscope. They will see what's going on and determine if there is something wrong in the Electrics of your Bike. If they find anything, good ... If they do not find anything, you could be able to blame the Supplier for those bad Stators .... This Way you are sure that there is, or at least was, everthing OK with the Bike and do not have to have some Fears when riding .... It's very annoying not to be sure if you can drive back Home right before getting out ...
  17. Please consider your Oil as a Factor in Shifting Issues ... There are plenty of Guys who have changed the Brand or/and Weight and did get better and precise shifting. Of Course, everything else should be in good Shape, Linkage, Clutch and the Rachet/Pinwheel behind the the Clutch-Basket.
  18. Steve did check the Pins already .... :(
  19. Yes, the Lights are shuted down by the Starter Button. That's because you want to have all the Battery-Power for starting. If you release the Starter Button the Lights come on again.
  20. Hi, here in Germany, we have an very knowledged Importer which is running all Mikuni Stuff. His Name is Stephen Topham. His originally Mikuni-Parts are Way cheaper than the Yammi Guys are calling. Isn't there any Company in the States also ? http://www.mikuni.com/c-distributors.html You can call one of those Distributors and ask for the Parts needed. You will need the Carb Number BDST ... These Parts are not listed on the Mikuni Website, but that's the same here....
  21. nice Sound, yeah, but ... a Burnout without the Tire spinning ? ? ? :rotf::rotf:
  22. Hey, sorry for disregarding your Question in my first Post. I'll try to do better next Time !
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