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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Hi, i'm sorry to say, but i think this Problem isn't a Problem of a missing Pin. When i first read the initial Postings, that's what i suspected also. but when this Starwasher is a culprit, you need to shift and get lost of the Pin on the Ratchet. Or you loose it while riding and can't find the Pin to hook onto anymore. In both Cases, the Gear stucks in as choosen. If the Gear pops out while riding and not while shifting, there is no Way that the Starwasher and/or the Rachetmechanism can be involved.
  2. Squeeze
    i would also recommend to get some spare Jets for the Carbs. In Fact, not only some, but a huge Ammount of different Jets for Air- and Fuel- Subsystems ... You will need them ! Better, you check out Pegscrapers Postings here, he has done some Improvements on his Bike
  3. Squeeze
    Hi Randy, probably, you can measure the Distance between Oilpan and Oil-Rig when the Pan is setted, but nor bolted down. Maxbe, some Wax or Plasticine could help you to determine if there is Room for a Damper or not. Afaik, the Damper is on all Vmax-Engines. As for the Ventures, i don't know this, but the 1200cc Venture ist Mother of the Vmax-Motor, why shouldn't it be there also ? Did you check the Yamaha IPC for Reference ? http://www.starmotorcycles.com/star/parts/home.aspx and choose what you want to have showed. As i checked the '83, there are 2 Grommets listed in the Oil-Filter Sheet, Pos# 12 and # 13. #12 should be the One under the Tube, which should hold the culprit O-Ring in Place. If i where you, i'd go with the modified Circlip Solution and a new standard Yammi-O-Ring. And place the Retainer i mentioned as an Add-On. But i know you are in a Hurry, going to Vogel. As the Motor did run a long Time without having this fixed, i don't see why you in desperate Need of fixing that. Go to Vogel, enjoy Life and fix it when you have everything on the Bench. Not a hard Job to do, even when to Engine is in Place. There are a Lot of Discussions on the Internet, whether this Problem is real or not. I believe, there is one or maybe two damaged Engines, which the O-Ring could blamed for not being in Place, but on the Vmaxes, there are 90 Percent of those Rings out of Place. It is a Problem, yes, if you're working on it, fix it. But there is no need to panic.
  4. Squeeze
    Hi, actually, Condor's Description is what i would have meant and said,if i would be able to. Thanks for that. Anyways, i says me, that have to work a LOT on my Language to direct the People to what i am trying to say. Sometimes it just don't comes to my Mind, how to say it in english, so i translate my 'german' Thoughts in english Words, and the Result is stupid and senseless. I'm soo sorry for that. I'd better keep my Mouth shut.
  5. Squeeze
    Hi Randy, the O-Ring-Problem is a common known Issue on the Maxxes. You can cure that with a custom made Washer or a Circlip between O-Ring and the Oil-Tube which fits in the Boring. If you want to do the Job 100 Percent, you need a Retainer out of a Sheet of Metall, 1.5 mm thick, which is bolted under one of the Crankshaft Bolts and holds the Tubing in Place and under slight Pressure. See the Attached Drawing. Sorry, but the Measurements are in Millimeter. http://www.gkvgmbh.de/imgsq/Vmax/Retainer_Oiltubings.jpg The best Source for complete and compiled Information about this Issue is here. http://www.angelfire.com/ia/z/vmaxoilring.htm Your Theory about the Spring Tensioner and Oilpressure is impressive. I would't say you got THE Answer, but the Facts are lined up correct and you can be right with that Idea. If i where you, i would replace the 2nd Gear Shiftfork anyways. It is not that expensive, but it is hard to determine if the Ones you have are a bit weak, worn or bend. On a Friends Fj1200, we hardly could only see any Difference between his old worn and the new Shiftfork. As a Matter of Fact, his Tranny jumped out before we replaced the Part and did not do that afterwards. It's a Matter of only minimal Wear and Bend. The Fact that the 1300 Tranny is undercut is quite interresting. Maybe a previous Owner has had to open the Casing and did this in wise Foresight?
  6. Squeeze
    The Idle Mixture Screws is located just under the Diaphragm-Bowls. The Bowls are accessible from the left and right Side of the Bike. The Screws may be blocked by Brass Plugs. If so, you need to give them a carefully Bore and screw a (wooden threaded) Screw in and pull the Plugs with a Pincer out.
  7. Squeeze
    Is there any Update on that Issue ?
  8. Squeeze
    Hey Nathan, go out and locate the white 3-Wire Connector under the Seat, unplug and check it for Stain and and or melted Contacs. Then, get yourself a Digital Multi Meter, DMM, from Wal-Mart, Autozone or Home Depot or whereever Do-IT-Yourselves Stuff is sold. There is no Need to buy a good and expensive One. It should be able to measure Volts in AC and DC up to 200 Volts and Resistance. If there is a small Beeper to check if a Connection ist open or not, this would be real nice. If you're not familiar with the use of a DMM, check here ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13136 Then, with a charged Battery proceed like this http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=114279&postcount=8 and http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=103556&postcount=7 If you read the complete Threads, there are a Lot more helpful Instructions and Hints to gahter. Also, research GeorgeS's Postings, he's very knowlegable and familiar with 1Gens and does a Hell of a Job in explaining electrical Issues to those, who where not familiar with Electrics and Electronics. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/search.php?do=finduser&u=679 All in all, you can learn a Lot here, and you just have to ask, you are not alone ... As for your Question, sometimes only one of the three Coils of the Stator is going South. This can happen dued to thermal Issues. The charging System is weak at this Point, because the Ammount of produced Current is just enough to keep the Bike going or a bit less than that. Also, the Regulater/Rectifier could be weak, two of six internal Diodes are shot and there is one Path on the AC-Input which doesn't put out any DC. So, it's Time to read, learn, understand and find the Bug, cure the Problem and get yourselves out on the Road afterwards. You can do it!
  9. Squeeze
    I second GeorgeS's Posting. I bet that they replaced the Rings, but only with similar sized Ones. Get the original Rings, clean everthing around and mount the new Rings properly. I recommend to use a Sealant, not only to seal, but also to hold the O-Rings in Place while mounting.
  10. Squeeze
    Hey Nathan, don't dig yourselves the Hole that deep .... A rebuild Stator, as i've read, is around 130 to 160 Dollars, you'd need a Gasket and one Hour Wrenchtime .. That's IF you need one ...
  11. Squeeze
    I agree with Gibvel, my Switch was broken too. I could manage to turn the Switch by 180 Degrees and that prevented it from falling out of Position. But the Cruise felt out after Seconds or Minutes anyways, depending how bumpy the Road was. When i pressed the Lever forwards with my Fingers, that did not happen. So, i ended up in giving the Clutch Lever a Bore, just at the Point where the Pivot of Switch engages, taped a M4-Thread in it and put a small Bolt in. After i had installed the Bolt, i grinded the Head of the Bolt spherical and was one happy Camper.
  12. Squeeze
    Hi, i the Bypass works out, clean the Contacts in the Handlebar-Switch. There is an Opener for shut down the Headlight while pressing the Start-Button and a Closer-Contact to the Starter-Solenoid.
  13. Squeeze
    Thanks so much Rick
  14. Squeeze
    Hi Rick, exactly how much Pressure did you read on the Guage ???
  15. Squeeze
    to make a long Answer short .... YES !!!!! Not it can cause, it IS causing Problems, when the Carbs are not rejetted properly to this Setup.
  16. Squeeze
    Hi Randy, thanks for your Input on the Driveshafts. I had and have also some Expierence with Differentials on Trucks, Cars and similar Units in hydraulic driven Transmissions. I agree with you, when saying that when there is something wrong with the Gears, it will result in a Whine in first Place. But, it is not always that you can hear the Gears whine before they go South. Sometimes it sounds just one Time, a hard, metallic sounding "WHACK" .... As you read my Posting, i did mention that i know Guys which mixed those Gears and i do not say this can't be done and isn't working, but for me, it's just a Bit too unsecure and against my personal Responsibilty. No one could or would held me responsible for a Recommendation on a Internet-Board ... no One ? Ok, maybe no One besides myself. As for the Shim beyond the big Roller Bearing. All Vmax Engines i've opened so far, that might have been 5 or 6, have had one of those Shims between outer Race and the Casing. Some where 0.5 mm thick, other's only 0.3 mm, if i remember right. I didn't question them for what Purpose they ought to be. I just hate them, because it's quite tricky to put the Casing together without rumpleing one half of this Shim. At least, this is a Problem when you only open the lower Casing and need to mount the Casing from upside down. Maybe Yammi did bring those Shims in, when they tried to cure the 2nd Gear Issue. The Vmax-Motor was designed in '84/'85, when they have learned their first Lessons in 2nd Gear Issues. Since yours is a '83, it just might not have been there at that Time. I did manage this Issue by setting the Axle a bit too far (more or less 1 mm) outside the designated Place and after i put the Casing togehter, a minor Hit with the Sandhammer to get the whole Axle in back in Place. Then tightend the 4 Bolts on the Middle Gear-Side and these 3 hated Philips-Bolts on the Clutch-Side. I recommend to undo them, when the Engine is still in Place, as i find them very hard to open when i had the Motor on the Bench.
  17. Squeeze
    Hi, the Gear Lash in the 90* angled Middle Drive is setted by Shims under the three Bolts on the Outgoing Port to U-Joint and Driveshaft. Althought i know two Guys who have done a mixed Setup, i sincerly do not recommend to mix those Gears. They are sold by Yammi in a Pair and that's by a Cause. They where fabricated to fit the opposite Gear. If there is going something wrong, the rear Wheel will lock up and this will cause serious Damage to Bike and Driver. The Shims will fit from other Engines, no matter if 1200cc or 1300 cc. If i understand you Posting right, you plan to take the 1200cc out, open it up and replace that Tranny with the Unit from the 1300cc Engine. If so, you have to utilize the Set with U-Joint and angled Gear from the 1300cc. Set the right Lash and put it together. I also recommend to replace at least the 2nd Gear Shiftfork. This may lead you to another Problems, because the '83 Driveshaft seems to be somehow different to the '86 Driveshafts, i don't know if the U-Joints are the same, but if so, this is what i would do. If the Driveshaft and rear End won't fit, i'd rather go with newer Replacements than to mess with different Gears in the angled Gears. This could get very dangerous.
  18. Squeeze
    double Posting
  19. Squeeze
    Hi, the Bore of a 1300 cc Engine is 79 mm. There is no need to give the Sleeves a bigger Bore. Just hone them and bring the old Pistons in with new Rings. Of Course, only if the Rust isn't to deep in the Sleeves. If you want to go for bigger Borings, with standard Crankshaft, 1500cc is somehow Standard on these Engines. There are also 1420cc Kits. But, if going to bore anyways, why should you go the half Way through ? You could expect some 160 to 170 hp on the Clutch with 1500cc and proper setted Carbs and some Exhaust-Mods. This is with Vmax Heads and Cams. A Guy i know, is working on a Vmax 1870 cc Engine. This Borings makes the Sleeves outside the Casing, but with special milled Bridges on the Side of the Casing that isn't the Problem at all. I've ridden a 1500cc Vmax with Injection, some 165 hp at the rear Wheel. I can tell you, that's Kind of Scaring, because you really need to think about whether giving full Throttle or not .... I decided only to do so if i have at least half a Mile straight and free to go... and, you should learn to shift 200 Percent faster than you're used to.
  20. Squeeze
    nice Math .... I second your Thoughts
  21. Squeeze
    Hi, those full-floating Rotors rattle, when the Brakes are not applied and the Speed your going is slow to very slow. A have a Set of full-Floaters in the Front of my Max and first Time of started, i was shocked by the Rattle. But when i got some Miles on the Bike, the Brakedust settled in and the Rattle went down to a lower Noise-Level. I did a bit of research on those EBC MD2049 and i found that those Rotors are full-floated. So, they rattle by System. but ... If they rattle when you faster, let's say from 10 or 15 mph and more, there is something wrong. That's why they send you a new Brakedisc. They shall move from left to right, as you mentioned and don't move from front to back. The Time your new Disc arrives, you will see whats gong on. If the Floaters are mounted with an Circlip, there is a Possibilty that you can mount some Springs behind the Circlip and convert the full-floated to semi-floated and get rid of the Rattle and keep the Advantage of those Discs. If they rattle
  22. Squeeze
    Hi, for me that sounds that probably one of the Cells is dead. The Bike can start with only some 10 Volts, but the Battery-Tender would not acknowledge that Voltage as good enough, so the red Light stays on. It Time to utilized your DMM, digital Mult-Mmeter, set it to 20 Volt DC-Range and measure your Battery Voltage. I advise four Times of different Measures. 1st - when the Bike not running, Battery charged and the Tender is unhooked for a while(2 or 3 Hours) 2nd - when the Bikes is hooked to the Tender 3rd - when the Motor is running on Idle 4th - Motor running at 2500 RpM 1st should show at least 11.4 Volts 2nd should be 13.5 to 14.2 Volts 3rd at least 12.5 Volts 4th at least 13.0 Volts
  23. Squeeze
    Sure this makes Sense... It increases the Amount of Coils sold .... :rotf:
  24. Squeeze
    Sorry Carl, it seems to me, that i can read something Sarcasm between the Lines. If so, again, sorry, didn't want to offend you in any Way. I didn't even realize that you're riding a '85 ....
  25. Squeeze
    I'm not sure about what Covers you're referring to, but the Elbow fits, no Question, right Side Cover fit also. Left Side is a bit Unkown, because the Maxxes Shift-Linkage uses a different Hole in the left rear Cover instead of the Usage of the Hole in the Generatot Cover. If you refer only to the Cover-Inserts, they fit .... There is a known Problem with the custom Elbows, in the Past they made it out of stainless Steel and Aluminium, that has given some Guys minor Leaks on the O-Rings when the Engine gets hot and cold after Riding. Today those Elbows are only made as Aluminium Covers for the stock Elbow.
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