Squeeze
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Everything posted by Squeeze
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How much is too much, how little is tooo litlte
Squeeze replied to Marcarl's topic in General Tech Talk
Hi, if you overfilled the Forklegs, the Fork will not have the complete Amount of Travel and feels very hard, especially in compress Way. It will come to block too early. if you underfill, the damping won't work proper, both Ways, Compress and Rebound will not have enough Oil for doing the Job right. On the End of the Compress Way(upwards), the Fork will run heavy in the Block-Stoppers. what does the Oil do ? The Oil is the Medium, which is run through some Valves by the Travel of the Legs. Those Valves are reducing the Oilflow and by that, smoothen the Travel of the Legs. Just a short Version, if i'm wrong please correct me -
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Semper_Gumby
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Hi, remove the left Side Switch Assembly and bring in your Compressor and a Airgun. Lift the rubber with a small Screwdriver and blow the Air in the Gap, move the Screwdriver around the Handlebar and follow it with the Airgun. Once your done the complete Turn, you should be able to turn the Grip and pull it from the Handlebar while turning and blwoing Air between Rubber an Handlebar. On the right Handlebar, it's better to take the Switch apart and remove the complete Grip. If you turn the Grip with too much Force, a Cable could be going weak or you tear it apart. Once you have it in Hand, you can use the same Procedure as on the left Side.
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i did understand the Sense of your Words :D , but my quote wasn't a Joke either ... :D ....
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you might know it but nevertheless ... if using Helium, you should check and refill the Tyres at least every Week.
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which also give's you back the worn Tyres .... :D
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Hi Lynn here are the Measurements complete Height from top to Bottom is 107 mm upper Joint for the Airbox takes 10 mm off lower Joint for the Manifold Rubbers take off 12 mm so, the effective Hight is 107-10-12 = 85 mm
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Hi, sorry that, i forget the Height, will submit that tomorrow. I allready guessed your Thoughts about fitting Vmax-Carbs to your 2Gen. As for the Ignition ... imho, you better get yourselves a MAP-Sensor and a Dyna 3000 Ingnitionbox ... because ... 1st - it will be a Pain to get a TPS on the Max-Carbs, a TPS can't be placed 'inside' the Carbs Set. There is no Room. So, no Room inside the Set, no Room outside .... where to put that Part? 2nd - going with a MAP-Sensor gives you much more Room to find a Position for the Sensor itselves, there is only a small Hose from the Sensor to one Monifold. 3rd - the Dyna Box brings you adjustable Spark Advance, smaller Casing than the Vmax TCI AND a Rev-Limiter. All togehter at a Price you can only buy a used TCI from a Wrecker or Ebay. And there are different Curves in fitting TCI's, some pull up to 42°, some only to 31°. Depends on Year, at least the european One's i know. But there is a Partnumber on the Unit. 3.1 - if you have brought all the Parts togehter, you'll need that Limiter more often than you even dream of. Since i put a digital Speedo on my Max, i'm able to reread the maximum RpM i've produced. As i don't rev it that hard, allways shift at 8k, i was shocked, when i read 10800 RpM the first Time i tabbed through the Menu of the Speedo. The Stock Revcounter isn't that precise at all. It's more a 'Estimater' or 'Suggestor'... cross checked that with a Workshop Revcounter and the Speedocounter more than often... 3.2 - when i imagine your Setup .... 1300 cc Engine, Vmax Heads, Cams and Carbs i'd say your Bike brings up a Lot of Power, which can be better controlled by a selectable Spark Advance Curve than with a fixed Curve writen by Yammi-San, optimized for Pollution Matches and designed to work with all Engines in their particular Production Tolerances. Together with working on the Intersection of the Cams, you are able to set Power and Torque at best Perfomance. I'm quite confident that a Dyna3000 for a Vmax, either 1 or 2 Pickups, will work with every Venture if there is a MAP-Sensor like the Max or the 1Gen's have. As Dynatek is in California, it should be one or two Calls to approve that. As for the Vmax is still produced or not ... Did you read a Statement where i put some Money on my Statement ? As long as i wasn't in Japan, i can only say what i've heard about. My Yammi-Dealers are also handsome Guys, but they do not know anthing. I told them that there was the new Vmax-Site on the Web and about the Motorshow, where the new One was shows Second Time in public. They have had strange Thoughts about the Policy of Yammi here in Germany. If they produce the Vmax till now, OK, works for me. Won't change my Life anyways, except you can call me a Liar. :( finally, the Gear-Ratio-Issue For me it is still to be researched. Have that on my long Term List and will go after that. I'm really busy getting my Bikes ready for the Season and still have some Rim-Sets sitting next to my Lathe, my Buddies are waiting for the converted Rims. And my Business needs me 12 Hours a Day as this Seasons starts a little early this Year. Maybe we are both not wrong in our contradicting Minds ? I have one Friend whose Vmax has a definatly US-Origin. He brought it over from Huntsville, AL. I will meet him at the End of April and will give his 'Estimator' a close Look while Riding. Badest thing at all is, there are no visible Marks where you can differ those Gear-Ratio on the Casing. I will count all 5 final Drives, that i have in my Workshop for the Ratio. There should be two from Vmaxxes, two from Ventures and one from a 2001 FJR 1300. btw ... check this out ... 10 hp Gain on a highend Vmax, just by a Full Motor Managment, something like that will be my upcoming Winterproject. www.wildbros.com ...
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Hi everybody sharing this Thread, First the Measurements: Boring middle/middle Carbs front/rear is 100 mm Boring middle/middle Carbs left/right is 146 mm Throttle-Plate Diameter 35 mm mounting Diameter on the Manifold-Rubber's 42 mm Intake mounting Diameter is 52 mm Outer Casings Dimension are 200 mm for the Body front/rear,210 with the Choke-Lever, which is like a 4 mm Wire from Side to Side Outside left to right, which is outside the Diaphragm-Bowls is 310 mm Second: I know that the Vmax is not outselled in US! They are still selling this Bikes. The would still sell it here in Europe also, if the Vmax would pass the EPA-Tests, which they can't pass since new Rules at 1st April 2006. But the Production is discontinued. I have heard from different Sources, that the Vmax Production was definatly stopped in late 2002. As far as i know, they are putting new Colors on the 'new' Bikes they have completly manufactured and stored. As long as there are Bikes in Storage, they can sell them as a new Bike. There is no Mystery or Oxymoron if Klaus has driven a 2006 last Fall, you know, they also print their own Stickers and Plates .... Maybe i was told totaly wrong, but that's the Story what i heard of.
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No Problem, if i remember right, it's 82 mm front/rear and 120 mm left/right. I'll take a measure tomorrow.
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Production of the Vmax was stopped in 2002, the Plant was completly taken down and everything wrecked. Yes, they have a TCI like the 1Gen's Ventures. Different Timing, but similiar Function. There's a Pressure Sensor which is loaded by Vacuum from the #2 Cylinder Manifold. The Pickup changed from two Pickup's to just one Pickup in 1993. The TCI computes RpM and Voltage from the Sensor to the appropiate Spark-Advance.
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Hi, i've never seen or heard of a TPS on Vmax-Carbs. Newest Bike i'm familiar with is 2005. Neither heard from various Boards around the World. As the Production was stopped in 2002, i do not believe that they put in a TPS in afterwards. If so, for what Purpose? A TPS should give a Signal to an electrical Component, the Standard TCI from a Max do not have a Port for such a Signal. Would bring up the Need for an other TCI... You can check Yammi-Parts Page if you really wanna do research that. Vmax is listed as well as all the other Bikes. But i think it will be wasted Time.
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i've modified and sealed Trunk and Side-Bag's. Now i can drive at least 75 Minutes or 480 Miles until they need to be drained ...
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I know and use both, Helicoil and Time-Sert. For me, depending on the Application, like Sparks-Plug Threads and also like Drainplug on the Oilpan, Time-Sert is the better Choice. I use them everywhere on Parts who are in need to be sealed inside the Repair-Thread against Fluids or Gases. I use blue Loctite 628 for fixing and sealing the whole Insert while turning the Repair-Insert in. imho, Helicoil is better on Applikations where strong/heavy Torques are needed. The Helicoil Insert is relaying the inside Pressure behind the repared Thread towards the outer Sealing of the Screw or the Sparkplug. That's because the Insert is like Wire and cannot Seal the Thread itself. The Tinme-Sert is a complete Collar, which can easily sealed on the outside of the Thread. Again, both Systems will work fine on a Sparkplug-Thread Repair, for me it is just a Case of Good and Better. Edit: As i reread my Words, i hope that you understand what i'm trying to say. Today so far, no chance for a better Expression of my Thoughts ... :whistling:
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Normaly, the front Spring's Lenght's is measured outside the Tubes. If they are as long as the Workshop Manaul says, they aren't worn out... But, if your going that deep into Suspensions, you might better check the static and dynamic Ride-Heights on the Bike. If the Bike stands alone on the Tyres, there should about 10 Percent of the complete Travel of the Damper be used, Front also 10 Percent. Dynamic Riede-Hight is:You sit on the Bike, Feet on the Pegs, stabilizing against a Wall with you right or left Hand, the used Travels should increase to 20 to 25 in Front, around 20-25 Percent on the rear. That should be the best Way to determine
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Sorry, at the Moment, i do not understand how this Suspension works. I take a Look in the Manual and try to understand. Not that i need to know that, but it's allways interesting how Things work.
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Hi, can you tell what those two 'Hook-Nuts' are able to move/adjust ? If you're right on the Movements, which i seriously do not doubt, they can't be for a 'Pre-Unload' of the Shockspring. As i see the Picture and your Explanation, they should determine the 'Ride-Height' of the rear End. If so, they are now in the upperend Position. So, if you fabricate two new Pieces, with a closer Position of the top Holes, maybe 54mm instead of the stock 62mm, they would lift the rear for around 3 Inches ? Should be calculated, but you would be able to adjust the Ride-Height in a new Range. So those 3 Inches may be too high, but you can turn it down to the Ammount you are comfortable with. Just my Thoughts, if i'm talking Crap, please ignore what has been a Pain to your Eyes the last 30 Seconds....
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Hi, check the Vacuum Line to the Sensor for the Ignition for Leaks. After that, measure the Sensor. The Procedure should be described in the Workshop Manual. For me it seems that the Ignition runs a little late. The TCI computes the Manifold Pressure to advanced Igniton, and that is not proper working.
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You've mentioned that in a other Thread so, Motor's fine now, everything OK ?
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Didi you place a Copper Washer under the lowest Bolt of the six Bolts of the FinalDrive Cover ? The Washer has to be there, or it will do like a Harley :D
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Fuelpump is ticking, if you turn the Key ?
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Sorry for my poor and short Answer. Was a bit busy in the Office at that Time. I would have typed 'the Chance might be more than 50 Percent'. The Gears from a 2nd Gen, a 1300 cc Engine will fit in a 1200 cc, 1st Gen Engine. Definatly As i never had opened up a RST, Royal Star i'm not sure about the Gears. There are a lot of Engine-Parts interchangeable between all Years and Generations, most none interchanging Parts are like the Cams, because of different Timing, Pistons because the Diameter of the 1200 cc is 76 mm, 1300 cc is 79 mm. The Cylinderheads are interchanging, but on the RST or other "3Gen" Bikes wont fit it exactly, because the outgoing Parts to the Mufflers are not in the same Direction. Most of the other, inner Parts are the same or look the same on the Fiches, as as i have checked them for several Issues. Even a newer Partsnumber, e.g. 4NK-XXXXX-XX-0X is no Hint that it is an other Part than on a 1st or a 2nd Generation Bike. There's allways a remaining Rest which is a Question of Knowing, Measurement or Try and Error. Maybe someone other can step in, who is closer to both Engines and make a judgement Call on the Gears. If you can live with overall 500 rpm less through all Gears, you can get a final Drive from a earlier Modell. Think up to 84 or 85 Yammi used a 33/9 Ratio. Your 1990 Bike should have 33/10 instead. I've done that Conversion on my Vmax because of other rear Wheel, the RPM rised by 500. It will lower the RPM, but in all Gears, not only in 5th. Costs me some tenth of a Time on Accelleration. Before Conversion, the Bike gone 130 km before Reservelight lid, after it is about 150km.
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2Gen will fit, RST ?? I don't know for sure, think the change might be more than 50 Percent.
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Don't care about what you have now ... Take the floated Disk an be happy with it. Only Thing is, the Disk should have the correct Diameter, Boltpattern and Boltdiameter. A floated Disk is better in any Circumstances.
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the Idea ? for me it's common Knowledge :D:D:D:D Summer won't be a Problem, but if the Spray is too cheap, Rain can cause some slip on Grips. Until they are dry again. To get the old Ones loose, you can use a Sringe, filled with Gasoline. Stub out your Cigarette, lift the Grip with a small Screwdriver and press the Gas under the Grips. Move around the whole Handlebar and after that, try to turn the Grip. Once you can turn it, you will be able to pull the Grip off. Or start your Compressor and use the the Blowgun, lift the Grip with Screwdriver and press the Air between Grip and Handlebar. Don't try to mix those Versions, if you blow in the Gas, this will result in an big Mess, with lots of cleaning and repainting.