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Squeeze

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Everything posted by Squeeze

  1. Squeeze
    Connection on the Handlebar-Switch or the Wireing Harness Connector might be bad, check and clean both and this will be gone.
  2. Squeeze
    No, it just goes on, when the Level is lower than to be good.
  3. Squeeze
    I'm afraid to say, but Frankfurt Galaxy lost at the End .... 37:28 for the Seadevils ... not good, but they earned the Victory, no Question about that. No Ring for the Thumb :( btw, my Trucks are painted in some Sort of Purple .... :D :D
  4. Squeeze
    Hey, thanks for the quick reply... Besides that .... it's 23:21 for Hamburg Seadevils vs Frankfurt Galaxy in the World Bowl Final on NFL Europe right at the Moment ... Seadevils couldn't manage 4th down and Goal to go ... .. Purple is the Color !!!!
  5. Squeeze
    Hi Guys, as i wrecked my Windshield yesterday while cleaning, i could get one of a '83. Question is, will this 1983 Windshield fit to my 1993 ? From the Pics i've seen, i might fit .... might fit... Is there anybody who can confirm this ?
  6. Squeeze
    Idle Screw is on the left side, in the middle between the two Carb-Bowl, which are seen from the Outside. It's below the Bowls and comes from vertical bottom and shows right upwards. The Screw is silver and has a big Head to move it with the Fingers. Manual can be found the 1Gen-Section here ....
  7. Squeeze
    Hi, the Steel-Plates are checked for blue discoloring and for warping on a even Surface. The Plates are checked for warping and Thickness by measuring. Check the Manual for the correct Sizes. Even Surface could be a Pane of Glass. I think, you need to go for a Ride and get all Things moved. After that, Decisions can be made.
  8. Squeeze
    Congrats so far, hopefully this worked out for you fine, the next Days will tell you the Truth. If it's getting to leak, it will start the next Days. I'll keep my Fingers crossed. How much Travel did you manage to get, when pressing the Lever ? Yeah, i second that ... :D
  9. Squeeze
    If you don't utilize the 10 Pounder giving it several hard Hits, there is nothing what could be hurt seriously. It's just to loosen the stuck Piston out of this Place. As it had stuck the first Time, every time you pulled the Lever, the Piston was pressed more and more in this stucking Place. If you force it back to normal Place, there's a Chance of get it working normal again. Nobody knows how and why it did stuck, maybe it was just from some Misaligment in the Clutch-Assembly or whatever else. Just hit it slightly, until the Rod moves a bit, then two or three even slighter Hits and it will be gone back to where it should be. If your not 100 Percent sure about the Line, open the Bleeder a bit, it will work as a second Damper and stop the Piston from crashing hard against the back of the Cylinder. First Damper would be the Fluid in Line. As for the Bolt-Pattern ... that's not that bad. Bad would have been if you tightened the Bolts one by one clockwise or counterclockwise. and ... check the Rods and the Ball for existing in Place, if you're not sure that nobody tinkered around with the Parts
  10. Squeeze
    Once you have the Slave undone, it just makes no Sense to just clean it and put it back in Place. A Repair-Kit or a new Unit would solve this for the next Years. If you just clean it, maybe you will find yourselves wrenching at it the next 4 Weeks, because it's leaking. The left Side Cover has to be undone to get the Slave out.
  11. Squeeze
    second Thought: as the Seals in Slave are nearly Waste anyways, you could give 'brute Force' a Try. Use a 2x4 Piece of Wood as a Damper and give the Rod a slight!!!! Hit with the Hammer. The Rod will go back in normal Place and probably not stuck anymore, even when you pull the Lever several Times to test the Moving. It's a Risk, no Question, but Life's a Risk also...
  12. Squeeze
    #27 is the Slave-Cylinder, right I just did a bit Research about the Background of the Bike ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=93283&postcount=1 So, i think either the Mastercylinder ist stuck on it's Piston, or there was someone working on Clutch Years before and couldn't manage to get the so called Rod's (btw an outtake from the Yammi-Parts-List) and the Ball together. Maybe the Ball is missing. If the Piston is stuck, i'm afraid to say, you have to dismount the Slave, order a Repair-Kit and get it fixed. There are some Guys who did this with Success. I personally haven't done that in the Past. If i remember right, at least GeorgeS has done that some Weeks ago.
  13. Squeeze
    So, this reduces the Error to either the Push Rod or the Aligment of the Plates. Please, close the Bleeder-Valve and take the Pressure Plate out and push the Pinion#19 over to the left Side of the Bike. Then, put a little Pressure with your Hand on the Pinion and pull the Clutch Lever on the Handlebar slowly. The Pinion should now move towards the right Side of the Bike. You can feel that in your Fingers. When you release the Clutch Lever, the Pinion should be moved back in most left Position with little Pressure of your Hand. The complete Travel of the Pinion should be around 2 Millimeters, a bit less than one tenth on an Inch. Don't pull the Lever completly to Handlebar, this does no good. 80 Percent of the Travel should be enough for that Test. If the Pinion is working as expected, the Fault should be in the Assembly of the Clutch. Check everything before reassembling and make sure, that the Pressure Plate's Bearing fits in the Pinion#19 you tested before. Best thing is to asseble the Pressure-Plate is to use only 3 Bolts in a cross Pattern. Make 2 Turns on each Bolt, then go the next Bolt, 2 Turns, next Bolt and so until you got all three almost tightened. Then bring in the other 3 Bolts, also in a cross Pattern. If you have all setted, tighten all 6 Bolts in cross Pattern. After you reassembled the Clutch, you should be able to see the Pressure Plate moving when the Clutch Lever is pulled, and it should travel back on it's own, when depressing the Lever.
  14. Squeeze
    Hi, first check out what RandyA said. Open the Bleeder-Valve and look what happens. If there is a Lot of Pressure in the Line, it will shoot out while opening the Bleeder, be aware of that and open it carefully with a clear Hose fairly attached to the Bleeder. Once you opened it, try to pull the Lever and see what happens. If the Levers moves easy, keep the Bleeder open and mount the Pressure Plate. Before mounting the Pressure-Plate, try to get the mushroom shaped Pinion pushed over to the left Side. You just might have the right Boring on the bottom of the Mastercylinder clogged. Or ... did you change the Clutch-Lever while working on the Clutch ? There are some Aftermarket-Parts, which do not fit perfectly. If the Lever is out of correct Dimensions, it could happen that the Pinion in the MC isn't released all the Way back. This pumps up the Pressure in the Line and the lower Cylinder. Friend of mine suffered this for 3 Weeks until we found this Catch22.
  15. Squeeze
    Hey, 500 RpM on Idle is too low to produce a fair Ammount of Loading Amps. If everthing on the Bike, as Carbs, Carb-Balancing, Plugs, Spark-Wires, electrical Connectors is well maintaned, you could run it at 500 RpM Idle, but imho, it's too low. I set mine at 900 RpM, that's a fair Value and better to Handle, especially when riding 2-up. Our Engines are not designed to run them as an agricutural Tractor .... While you're holding your Breath, why just not give your DMM a Shot and check the Voltages on your Bike ? Should be around 15 Volts AC at the Output Side of the Stator, measured each two of those 3 Wires against each other. The Value isn't the priority, all threee Measurements should show nearly same Voltages. Resistance from those Wires versus Ground should be infinte. On the DC-Side, there should be at least 12.2 to 12.8 Volts across the Battery-Posts, when the Motors not running. While the Engines runs, there should be at least 12.8 Volts on the Post, the more the better. If there are more than 15 Volts, the R/R is shot. As you're taking the Measurement, check the Connector from Stator to Regulator/Rectifier and clean then properly. If you have some Dielectric Grease by the Hand, it isn't a fault to use it here anyways. Also the Connector from R/R to the Wiring Harness could be cleaned and greased for saving the Contacts Life.
  16. Squeeze
    Hi, new Springs won't help if the Clutch is sticking. The Springs are pressing the Plates together and the Force from the Hydraulic is pushing the Plates against the Force of the Springs to uncompress the Plate-Package. Sticking means, that there is not enough Travel on the Clutchcylinder. Or Air in the Line. I think bleeding the Clutch propely will help you on that Hassle. While doing that, either the standard Way or Upside down, watch the Line for any Bows that go above the lower Level of the Mastercylinder. If you are not able to get those Bows temporarily under the Mastecylinder, you gonna spend Hours and Hours of not gaining any Progress. Pls don't ask how do i know ... :( If you feel some Resitance on the Lever, you could try to pull the Lever against the Handlebar over the Night, using a Tie Strap or a Cable. This will force the Bubbles in the Line upwards to the Reservoir, where they come out of the Line the next Morning while releasing the Lever. It takes some Hours to work out, so over Night works for me. Proceed this several Nights and you will feel it coming better and better. But this won't help if there are Bows above the Level of the Mastercylinder. I actually proceed this every Time after Work on the Brakes or Clutch, so i don't need to bleed the Line, just because i opened a Banjo-Bolt for Seconds.
  17. Squeeze
    Hi, take a Look here, it's from a Vmax-Site, but the Carbs are similiar to the 1Gen ... http://www.vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/cleaning_pilot_jets.htm
  18. Squeeze
    Hi, i'd be definatly interested, if they are still available. Do you have a Paypal-Account ?
  19. Squeeze
    Hi, first off all make sure that there is enough Oil in the Engine. second, check the Connection of the Sensor and measure the Signal it brings up third depending on either the Sensor is stuck somewhere, the SensorContakt isn't relasing or the Floater isn't floating anymore, take the Sensor out and check it out fourth if the Sensor Signal seems to bee good, there's can be a short in the Wires to the Display or the DisplayContacts need to be resoldered
  20. Squeeze
    Hi Steve, i personally don't feel good about Castrol Oils. I know several People which have had to get rid of it early after they put it in. It may be just my baised Mind. As for the second Linkage, yes, there is a second Linkage under/behind the Engine Cover Refer to Yamaha Parts Catalog
  21. Squeeze
    Hi, the shimming of the Lever-Linkage isn't the best Idea. It would be far better to give the Lever a bigger Bore and make a fitting Collar on a Lathe. The Collar could be made of Brass or a T6 Aluminium. I assume you setted all the Levers of the Linkage in a 90 Degree Angle when you worked on the Linkage, if the Levers aren't in such a Position, it is quite common that shifting is hard in one Direction. Either Push or Pull. Next Question, what Oil do you use ? There are some People which have had a Hassle on shifting, after they changed their Oil-Type, there was nothing left of the Hassle.
  22. Squeeze
    That's a good Advice ! I'm just curious, what Dimensions are the Limits on the Tests ? What Kind of Gases are to be Tested ?
  23. Squeeze
    Let me guess ... 'should be' means you're not sure of that Shield ? I'm quite sure that there is nothing to prevent plugging. I'f i where you, i'd do the Test with the second Earplug in some Gas. If there is some Loss of Material on the Earplug, forget about the Plug in your Tank, if not ... Either take your Chances or go the hard Way of get that damned Thing out of the Tank. You could decide that while Testing the second Plug, if it's swimming on the Gas for a while, you probably have a second Chance for a Catch at the Refill of the Tank.
  24. Squeeze
    dream on .... there's no Way that Cement or Concrete can influence the Cells of a Battery .... except..... yes ... there's some Radiation near fresh and not too old Concrete. You can test this with a Radiation-Ticker ... but, as i have seen in my some 20 Years in my Workshop, there no Effect on the Battery ...
  25. Squeeze
    If you use Air-Pressure in the Fork, there should not be that much difference, but if no Airpressure is in the Game, it can happen that the Legs go on block while compressing. As for the dampening Part, it should work. Best would be, if you fill up the Legs to the proper Level.
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