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RedRider

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Everything posted by RedRider

  1. RedRider
    That's the funniest description of the fuel filter location I have heard. It is in a nasty location. Several folks here have just bypasses the OEM filter and added an in-line filter in a location someone with hands bigger than an 8 year old carpet weaver can reach. RR
  2. RedRider
    I've been following your troubles and travails. Glad it is working for you now. RR
  3. RedRider
    I've got the Bub's on my 2000 Red. Look and sound great. RR
  4. RedRider
    At least up till last year, they were great to work with. They are now under new ownership and I have not purchased anything from them yet. I probably will once I get an opportunity to 'voluntarily' change my tires. RR
  5. RedRider
    +1 on the CarbonOne adapter. If you intend to do significant work, get the one with the legs. It allows you to pull the jack out and work on you bike without the jack handle being in the way. VERY stable. You can find it in the Classifies under 2nd Gen Parts and Accessories. You may want to PM Starbog. He sold his 2nd Gen and may have one available (don't know if he had one or if he did, if he already sold it). He is located in Chicago also. RR
  6. RedRider
    Per the Polaris website, it appears the 5 year warranty consists of 1 yr standard factory warranty and an additional 4 years of extended warranty. No mileage limitations, $50 deductable in the extended portion. RR
  7. RedRider
    If you need to lower the bike, assume due to being vertically challenged, you are better off lowering the front end or having the seat reworked to narrow the front (makes it easier to get the legs down). By lowering the rear of the bike, it will make it even less manauverable at low speeds. Not good. RR
  8. RedRider
    Last Friday was the second happiest day in my boating life - I sold the boat (got what I was asking too)!! Now is the time to do some upgrades. One of the things I am looking at is a better seat. A member has a nice Corbin he has upgraded to the Russell (due to a hip problem the Corbin apparently wasn't as comfortable anymore) and he is offering it up for sale. Before making this change, I would like some input as to the relative comfort for these saddles. I ride long distances (Iron Butt runs and ralleys) and the stock (non-pillow-top) seat is limiting. I use an AirHawk and/or sheepskin and it helps, but not enough for really long rides. Had my seat redone by Rick Butler and that also helped, but again, not enough. Ran 4000 miles in 5 1/2 days earlier this spring and the last day or so was pretty brutal. Tailbone pain is the worst. I am looking to do a 5000 mile / 5 day run this year and I know the current seating arrangement won't hold up. Any input would be helpful. Thanks. RR
  9. RedRider
    To be fair to the dealers - most of their techs are trained on the higher volume bikes. With the excetion of the Venture, all new bikes (and sleds and ATVs) sold are fuel injected or single carb (dirt bikes). The younger techs may not be as experienced with carbs as you would expect. As much as we like to think so, the Venture is no longer the flagship of the line. It is an older design that is kept around due to a loyal following and a need to fill the large touring bike segment in their line. If it was the flagship, it wouldn't still have a cassette deck. Ask to talk with the Service Manager (without the salesguy hovering around). Ask specific questions concerning working on bikes with multiple carbs. Ask what tools they use to sync the carbs (the answer should be a multiple readout vacuum gauge of some type). If the Service Manager isn't confident of their ability to work on the multi-carb bikes, move to a different dealer. In my experience, the SM has generally been pretty straight forward. They are not trained on the 'sales' techniques and aren't as good at 'baffling with bull sh*t'. Good luck. Post pics of your new ride when you get it. RR
  10. RedRider
    Steve, I have put the I-Pass in my tank bag (if I am using it) or in the pocket of my tank bib. Works everytime. RR
  11. RedRider
    Ummm...right. I forgot about that part. Thanks for filling in to gaps. RR
  12. RedRider
    To repack the steering head bearings is not an easy job. You have to remove the front fairing, and hence, all the electronics etc. within. I checked mine with about 60k miles and it was still lubed and in good shape. However, you will periodically need to tighten the bearings. This can be done with a long flat blade screwdriver. Just reach it in under the triple tree and give a couple of raps with a hammer. You will see if it is tight or not. RR
  13. RedRider
    Nicely done. I don't usually ride in groups because of the lack of uniform safety awareness. It sounds like your group would change that for me. RR
  14. RedRider
    You're still under warranty. Take it in to the dealer and let them fix it. Good Luck. RR
  15. RedRider
    Success!!! 2 of the 4 low speed jets were completely clogged with gunk. Started working on the Honda at about 10:30 and by 7:00, I took it for a ride. There were a few items that cost some extra time, I expect to do it again would only take 4 hours. Wil, a couple of items I ran into that caused extra time and/or were not in the instructions. 1) There is a shield on the front of the aluminum airbox that holds some hoses. You will need to unmount (but not remove or disconnect any of the main hoses from) the radiator to get to the mounting screws. You don't need to remove the shield, just unscrew it from the airbox. It is helpful to disconnect the overflow tube and move it out of the way. 2) The airbox is the big aluminum box thing - not the plastic box that holds the filter (although you have to remove this too). There are 8 screws in there that will loosen easiest with a #3 phillips. You will need a couple of different screwdrivers to get these all out. A long standard #3 screwdriver is essential. For a couple of the screws I needed to used a 1/4" ratchet with about 2" of extension and a #3 phillips bit. Once you get the aluminum airbox off, the carbs come out easily. 3) There are a couple of small springs in the sync linkage that will likely come out when you remove the carbs. You will need to be patient reinstalling these spring after you reinstall the carbs. You can get to the locations to put them in place, it is just pretty tight. As a hint for the rear linkage spring - put a dab of grease on your right index finger to hold the spring while you lower it into place. You can then manauver the spring into place with your two index fingers and finally get it set in the proper final location with a small flat blad screwdriver. 4) Use a white marker to mark the orientation of the carb boots before you remove them. They are not straight and really only allow the carbs to be properly seated when they are in their proper orientation. (Advice from Kurt) 5) Wear safety glasses when you are shooting the carb cleaner thru the ports on the carbs. It comes out all over the place. 6) The orific in the slow speed jet is really small. To clean it out, I took apart a multistranded 16 gauge wire and used one of the strands. It probably would have better to use a multistranded 22 or 24 gauge wire, but I didn't have any of that handy. 7) Line the inside of the carb boots with a little oil and the carbs slide in much easier (great hint from Kurt) Overall, it was pretty easy to do. It was a great feeling when the bike fired right up once I got it back together. This is a sceaming little bike. When you hit 7000 or 7500 RPM, it hits a power band that really kicks. It is a little small for me, but a fun bike nonetheless. Kurt, thanks again for your help. And you were right, once you see how the things comes off and goes back on, it is pretty easy to do. This bike is a very maintenance friendly machine. Jeff
  16. RedRider
    It's very likely you could get a US drivers license. Just tell them you swam the Rio Grande to get here and they will set you up. (OK, this is a little 'illegal alien' humor - not recommended to try if you are on an honest visa). RR
  17. RedRider
    Are you bringing over your own bike? Or are you renting here? If you are renting, the rental agent will likely have insurance coverage available for you. RR
  18. RedRider
    I used a scratch awl and a hammer. Placed several layers of a rag over the butt end of the awl so the hammer wouldn't make sparks. It is best to do this with a full gas tank. That way there is not a tank full of fumes, which ignite easier than liquid gasoline. RR
  19. RedRider
    FYI to those that have not changed out their clutches - You can do this without draining the oil. Just put it on the side stand and go at it. You will get a couple of drips come out, but that's about it. Easy to do. RR
  20. RedRider
    There are enough serious replies to this question that I was embarassed to leave this tasteless post. Removed. RR
  21. RedRider
    It HAS a mower deck. That would be really cool to mow the lawn with. RR
  22. RedRider
    The backfiring has nothing to do with octane. It is too rich a mixture and/or out of sync carbs. RR
  23. RedRider
    The best I found for waterproof was a fold top crush bag from Cabella's. I'm sure they have them elsewhere also. They aren't pretty, but they will keep everything inside dry in the harshest rain. And they sqeeze down to whatever size is needed. RR
  24. RedRider
    I will take the easy one first. Get a Progressive Pump from your local HD dealer. Believe it or not (at least in the States), it is less expensive with the HD brand label on it. The pump has a guage on it and is a 'zero letoff' pump. In other words, when you remove it, it doesn't release any air. Should cost about $50 (US). As for the ColorTune, google the term and you get pages of places to buy it. You can purchase it from Morgan (folks that make the CarbTune) for a reasonable price. It comes up when you google 'colortune canada'. If you are tuning both mixture and sync, do the mixture first. RR
  25. RedRider
    Based on the RSV design, there is no clutch adjustment to speak of. It sounds like you may need to change the clutch fluid and bleed the system. I suggest getting a SpeedBleeder for the clutch and it will make changing the fluid much easier. RR
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