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darthandy

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  1. darthandy
    ... try this out for size http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=494&highlight=splitting+fairing Andy
  2. darthandy
    Great idea!! I think it would also help to raise our profile (In a positive way) with the shops and dealers. There are certainly some in our area who deserve a pat on the back while others deserve a different "pat",,,a bit lower down on their anatomy using a different part of our anatomy. Andy
  3. darthandy
    When it comes to safeties , a lot depends on the mechanic and how the dealer wants to look at things. A flat spot when turning the bars is enough for most mechanics to refuse a safety...and they may well be right. If it's noticeable now, it could get worse quickly (Think pot hole, raised manho...oops, I mean person hole cover, etc.). Then again, I'd want to be sure there was nothing else causing the "catch" but that's not too likely. I'd say that you were looking at new bearings to pass your safety and as annoying as that may be, it's probably a good idea. Better safe than sorry, as they say.
  4. darthandy
    While putting in a relay is a good idea, you might want to check something else first. I recently had a problem with my passing lights (Supposedly installed by a dealer according to the PO) and I discovered that they had used a "guillotine" type tap to tie into a power wire. That's the blue plastic type of tap with a blade inside where you place both wires and then squeeze it closed to complete the circuit. When I would move the tap around, the lights would go on and off. The fuse was fine. I got some wire and proper connectors and did some soldering to permanently fix the problem. While I was at it, I replaced the glass fuse holder with a weather proof automotive blade type fuse holder and zip tied it to a cable bundle near the headlight adjustment knob after making sure it wouldn't get squashed when turning the bars. Now, if the fuse blows, I can get to it by turning the bars...nothing to remove. I didn't have the time, or urge, to remove the tank and besides, if I had put it under the seat, then I would have to remove that to get to it. And of course, you can still install a relay. Andy
  5. darthandy
    Thanks for the pic. Sure does bring back some memories. It looks quite nice. Very sorry to hear about your brother. As for getting your son interested, see if you can dig up some old HOT ROD magazines from the late 50's or early 60's ... that's what got me going on the older cars and hot rods. Back then, it wasn't just to make them nice...it was also about having inexpensive transportation. As for the bike, if it shook screws loose then it may be something a bit more serious. One thing I didn't notice in the list of things you have tried was a carb synch. You mentioned getting advice but not if it had actually been done. Out of synch carbs can definitely cause a vibration at the best of times and even more when you are lugging the motor. I know what you mean about smooth fours, but normally these engines are quite smooth, other than when being lugged. Try the other suggestions and synching the carbs, if it hasn't already been done. Also, just in case you didn't know, it is possible for the coils to spec out OK when checked cold, but one may be failing once heated up. On my Triumph, a quick and dirty check is to spray some water on the exhaust pipes when the problem occurs and see if one of them doesn't "sizzle". Not too sure how to check that on these engines but it may be something worth looking at. Triumph had a lot of coil problems in the early years due to one of their suppliers. They would run fine cold and start breaking down when heated up. Good luck!! Andy
  6. darthandy
    Pages 35 and 36 of section 7 in the manual, actually. I know because I just had to look up the fuse info for mine. Andy
  7. darthandy
    Ahhh...got it. Thanks Goose. Extra knowledge never hurts! Whoa...just realized something. If that's what happened, wouldn't that also mean his braking efficiency was lowered (Slippery discs)? Wonder what cleaner was used? Andy
  8. darthandy
    Rick is dead on with this. These bikes, as I have discovered, really do not like to lug. Even at 60 mph in fourth, rolling on the throttle will set off some vibration, particularly on a slight upgrade or into a strong wind. 75 mph uphill in 5th? You will definitely get some vibration, especially if you give it a lot of throttle. Don't be afraid to rev it...it won't bother the bike and you'll even (surprisingly!) get better gas mileage. If the vibration worsens as revs go up or you get strong vibrations in lower gears at more elevated revs, then you may have a problem. As Goose suggested, see if you can find another venture, or better yet, an experienced Venture rider with a Venture and see if he'll trade for a short ride. Then you'll have a much better idea of how things should feel and what an experienced rider thinks. By the way...I had a '54 Chevy Belair in high school...a two door hardtop, in fact. Sure wish I had it now..they're actually worth something! Andy
  9. darthandy
    A question...possibly stupid, but... he said that the pulsing went away for 600 miles of riding after he cleaned the rotor. Is it possible that the "pulsing" is being caused by something else and is perhaps not actually a "pulse"? I don't see how cleaning a rotor would eliminate a warped area for a while and then it returns...not that I'm an expert on this, but I am curious. Andy
  10. darthandy
    As far as I know, it's the same set of regs for importing any regular production or modified production bike. I've heard that it's best to go with a used bike. As far as dismantling it first, you would still have to get it registered once reassembled and the original ownership would show that it was a U.S. bike. I'm sure someone with more expertise than I will be along soon to help you out. Andy
  11. darthandy
    Actually, there are four tabs across the top and three across the bottom. As mentioned, they are all going into their slots as far as I can tell. It seems to be in solidly and is somewhat difficult to take back out, so it seems to be in properly. Is there supposed to be a bit of a gap by any chance? Could I somehow have the windshield in wrong? Andy
  12. darthandy
    OK, I've got the fairing almost all put back together, but...that chrome molding I was warned about isn't behaving...I think. When I get it in, the ends and bottom are flush against the fairing, but the top is about an eighth of an inch away from the windshield. Well actually the center is about a sixteenth but the part between the center and the ends is about an eighth away. I've checked as I have installed it and I can see the tabs going into their slots, but the molding still doesn't sit flush against the windshield. Anyone know what I may doing wrong? According to the write up in another thread there should be no gap between the molding and the windshield. If the tabs are going where they should, what is messing up? Anyone? Andy
  13. darthandy
    ...actually, at least here in the Niagara Region, we are, in mid-September, usually still seeing temps in the upper 70's in the daytime and lower 60's at night. Occasionally, it will dip to the upper 60's and lower 70's for highs, but that's rare for that time of year. The colder weather tends not to hit till mid October or a bit later. Now, as for upper Michigan and North Dakota, I couldn't say, but I'm sure some of the residents will chime in soon. Andy
  14. darthandy
    Just a quick update before I head back to the garage to finish up. I split the fairing this afternoon before heading out to the Canalfest days in Port Colborne...lots of food, beer and tall ships! Everything went quite smoothly (Thanks for the hints and tips, everyone) and lo and behold, there was the fuse in perfect condition!?!?! Checked the wiring and found that the person who had installed the lights used one of those "guillotine" type connectors to tap into a power wire .. you know, those blue things with a notched blade in them...you push two wires down into them and then squeeze them closed. Turned on the ignition and the lights were on...played with the connector and the lights went out and back on, etc. So...I pulled the connector off and trashed it and then pulled out my soldering iron some wire and some real connectors. While I was at it, I decided to replace the glass fuse holder with a weather proof holder that uses a blade type auto fuse. Now if I can just make out the rating on the existing glass fuse so that I can put in the right blade type fuse...damn, those things are hard to make out! I added some extra wire to allow the fuse holder to be moved about 4 inches to a point near the headlight adjustment knob. Now if I have to replace that fuse, I'll just have to turn the bars a bit to the right, reach in, snap the top off the holder and change the fuse. Nothing else to remove!! I'm going out to the garage in a few minutes to finish up and of course make sure the fuse holder won't get pinched by anything when moving the bars. I'll then zip tie it in place and then I can put it all back together. Oh yeah...while I was at it, I bought some H7616 halogen lights to replace the existing passing light bulbs. Had to get a replacement for the burned out one anyway, so I figured I might as well upgrade. Thanks again to everyone for the help. Now to order an HID headlight and a new windshield. I've been reading the threads on the subject of windshields and I'm I'm not sure if it's helping or not. Lots of different opinions on the subject...but, that's for a new thread. Off I go! Andy
  15. darthandy
    As you may know, Dunlop is an English company and they ride on the left side of the road in England. The tire architecture is set up for that type of riding so that naturally, when you ride on the other side of the road, the bike will be slightly unbalanced and pull to the left. Now...if you're buying that story, I have some nice ocean front property for sale in the southern part of one of our provinces called Alberta... Andy
  16. darthandy
    Well, I don't own one of their products but I did a web search on the name and came up with two reviews from WeBikeWorld, one of which dates back to around 2001 (They weren't sure of the date. Here's the link to if you want to check it out yourself. It sounds pretty good and I've found the Webikeworld reviews to be quite useful in the past. http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/headlight-modulator/dual-modulator.htm Andy
  17. darthandy
    Thanks again Goose but I'm afraid I made you do a lot of typing unnecessarily. I just did a search of the forum and found a really nice write up by Freebird with pictures (So useful for slow types like me!) and have saved the link to my favorites. One wonders why someone didn't arrange to have the fuse wired up near an easier to get at place...or were they hoping to generate some nice labour charges at a later time? Andy
  18. darthandy
    Thanks , Goose, that sounds a lot more like what I was looking at. Thanks also for the info on the inline fuse. I guess I'll have to pull off the inside of the fairing. I wonder if the instructions for that are as badly screwed up as those for the cowling? Sylvester, I have no idea. I guess I'll find out when I pull apart the fairing.
  19. darthandy
    Replaced a burned out passing lamp on my RSV and now both lamps are not working. Put a voltmeter to the lamp connections and there is nothing so it must be a fuse (I hope!!!). Now the fun part. It looks like a dealer installation, but all other systems (At least those I can check.) are working. I thought it might be connected through the fuse for the accessory terminal under the seat so I tried to check that fuse. And here is where I have a problem. The owner's manual says to remove the upper and lower screws at the front of the right side cowling and "pull outwards" on the bottom to remove the cowling. However...mine seemed stuck and when I looked closely, it seemed that the screw on the housing at the back of the cowling was also holding the cowling. As well, the quick connect fastener on the lower part of the cowling is at the bottom and doesn't look like the push on type. It looks like the type that you have to push or screw in at the center to get it to release. Have I badly misread the instructions or are things not quite as described in the manual?
  20. darthandy
    Well, since no one else said it, I may as well...."Oh deer!!!"
  21. darthandy

    Tires

    darthandy replied to Whistler's topic in Watering Hole

    Oh for Pete's sake, don't even suggest that! It was bad enough when my wife went for the rain suit with hot pink panels front and back! The last thing I need is for her to even think there are pink tires available. I'd have to give up riding! On another note, when I got my RSV at the beginning of the month, it needed a new tire to pass our required safety check and since the rear was already a Dunlop and I don't like to mix brands, I ordered up an E3. I've put about 1,300 km on it so far, including a 16 km ride in a really nasty thunderstorm in the Pennsylvania mountains. As well, I've managed to take a couple of turns at a speed fast enough that I scraped my floorboards and the tires have, so far, stuck to the road quite well, with no ugly noises - other than the floorboard scrapes. I'm quite happy with it so far, but I guess time will tell.
  22. darthandy
    Thanks...appreciate the info.
  23. darthandy
    Have you thought of going to a three wheeler like the Canam Spyder (Preferably the RT - more touring oriented)? Here's a link to a preview test from 2010. http://www.motorcycle.com/manufacturer/2010-canam-spyder-rt-preview-88698.html And here's the BRP Canam website. http://en-ca.spyder.brp.com/home.aspx And they are now talking about putting a "leaning" suspension on it to give it a more "motorcycle" type flavour. The advantage to having the dual wheels in front instead of in back, as with a regular trike, is that you have more traction for those fast turns through the twisties. There is even a Canam made trailer for extra carrying capacity. It might be worth a look. Plus, they have been selling well and are starting to hit the used bike market for those of us without the means to buy new bikes! I hate to see someone have to give up riding and touring. It's way too much fun! Andy
  24. darthandy
    I noticed from Deadshort1's profile that his bike is an '04 Road Star. Since it's a twin, would it not get slightly better mileage than the V-4's? I seem to remember reading somewhere that the twins tend to get better mileage, especially at lower speeds, due to the better low end torque that a twin puts out. By the way, my wife and I recently came back from a trip to Wellsboro, PA on our 2000 RSV. Leaving Wellsboro and riding the two lane roads through the mountains at 80 to 90 kph (About 50 to 55 mph), I filled up in New York state with 232 km showing (About 145 miles) and calculated 52 mpg (Canadian gal. - I converted) which is about 43 mpg per U.S. gal. I thought that was pretty good for two up and fully loaded. Andy
  25. darthandy
    I thought that was only on the first gens. The specs I've seen for the 2nd gen showed both front brakes operating from the handlebar lever and the back brake with the foot pedal...or am I missing something? Andy
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