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jasonm.

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Everything posted by jasonm.

  1. jasonm.
    In old starters. The bare wire one was the ground brush. Don't get you polarity mixed up. That would be a problem...
  2. jasonm.
    FYI- to whom it may concern. The tubular steel on these 1300 trunk mounts is not very strong. THE steel CAN CRACK. Especially should your passanger lounge against the trunk or even from weight bouncing around from being overloaded. Moving the trunk back is same as adding more weight. 1200 goldwings wuold crank these same parts. And my 87VR has cracked the tubular bracket...twice. Once on each side. Now it's been welded and reinfiorced for 10 years now. Stronger than original. If you want a picture I can post it.
  3. jasonm.
    VMAX needles are the same as ours guys. At least the OEM ones are. The float height MUST be done with the carb PERFECTLY LEVEL. Using a level on the top and checking at 2 angles minimum. AND all this should be done in a vise. So you can truly check the fuel height. mark with a scribe the 16mm mark described by others. But on the side of the carb. below the centerline. Which is also on the side. Do NOT use the ceneterline marked on the float bowls. Here's another tidbit. Use at least 3' of clear hose on the drain to check the height. WHY? Because You need to simulate fuel being used. Have most of the hose above the carbs when you start. Then slowly or quickly bring it below the carb. The final fuel level should not vary. I learned this last part the hard way. Checking it once with a short hose is not enough . Also Virago 535s and 1200 Vmaxs use the same floats. As for changing a seat on one of these carbs. Anyone who can do it properly ...is a better man than me.
  4. jasonm.
    I am just going to say this once. The pressure plate bearing has no effect UNLESS you squeeze the clutch lever. So if it's only is loud when it's NOT squeezed. It's not likely the cause of the noise. I had a bad one...changed it. Made no diff. The noise is ALL the clutch plates rocking and the bike's carbs not sync'd and or other carb issues making it idle less than smooth. And with age, the whole basket wobbles a bit.It's a heavy assembly. The bearing is brass in the basket. Not replacable. Get the carbs set properly and live with it.
  5. jasonm.
    that is a very unique relay...as it also has what appears to be 2 capacitors
  6. jasonm.
    6th Gear? you funny...now you want a tranny like the new H-D. These bikes don't need a 6th gear... Unless they made 1st so low it was just for trailer pullers.
  7. jasonm.
    YES, SS lines and HH pads are the deal for sure. BUT,If you delink the brakes on the 1300. Be aware the piston sizes on the 1300 1st gen calipers are NOT the same on both fronts!. And the pads will wear faster on one side vs. the other.
  8. jasonm.
    The fuel filter will NOT catch everything. But the bits of rust it misses are usually too small to clog anything. I suggest you drain the tank completely. Then remove the fuel "sender". And look in the tank. I had a bunch of random rust spots and SAND in the tank. I got 90% of the stuff out. Using WD40 which does break the rust down. ANd clean white rags(Tshirts and socks) on end of a stick. A vaccum I also used ONLY around the strainer. Do all cleaning w/petcock OFF. The little bit of WD40 will not hurt anything when you start it. ALSO how is the petcock strainer? EVAPORUST is a water base product that does a great job on rust. BUT MUST be flushed w/water. Making the job a BIG one.
  9. jasonm.
    I have a guy near me parting out a Virago 535. Which does have the same slides as our 1200s. The bike only has about 22k. I will be checking out the carbs this saturday on 9/4 . Send me a PM or email me, If anyone wants a 1200 slide for far less than new...
  10. jasonm.
    Took the bike out with the new rear commander. Handles good....Say Avons are a #10 in handling , then this is an 8 or 9 handler to me. Because it now does steers a bit slower. Needing more effort on the handlebars. AND Even though this 140/90 tire has a measured width at the tread is ONLY 130mm... RPM vs. speed is the same as before. Thus the tire is same height. But still very ODD. Michelin has not returned my calls. And Emails to them do not go thru. 38# in the tire, & 30 in the rear suspension. There are no "chicken strips" left on it. Wore it edge to edge in the first 30 miles. I could use more edge. I do not know if the available 150/80 - 16 would fit ? At this early stage ...yes it's a good tire. Not a great one. Jason
  11. jasonm.
    Pilot jets plugged usually cause LEAN issues. You are suddenly running rich. You have likely one or more bad float needles,Or floats. But not bad enough to flood the carb. I had one bad needle and bad float and my mileage went down 20%. These needles are rubber. They don't last forever. Especially with ethanol fuels. And SeaFoam is not a cure all...
  12. jasonm.
    When reinstalling the drive shaft and pumpkin to the swingarm. USE the axle to line it up square. Tighten the 4 nuts slowly. And just befor they are full tight, check that the axle should be able to rotate easily at least 90-180 degrees or rotation. If it's tough to turn all the time. Then it's not as best as can be. AKA, not aligned. This procedure is manditory on Old Goldwings. They are / were made very sloppy in this area.
  13. jasonm.
    I just got my rear commander mounted. I noticed 2 things. (1) the tire says it's a 140/90. My other bike(XZ550) has a 120 on the rear, the 120 measures 125 mm across using my caliper and the 140 Commander only measured 130mm across using my caliper. Date code 4709 made in Spain (2)-Michelin claims they use the better Rayon plies in the commander vs. cheaper polyester. Heck, mine clearly states 3 ply polyester and 2 aramid on the sidewall. What's up with that? I called Michelin. They said their info says the Rayon plies have been used for almost 7 years. And would get back to me with an answer. Did I get a fake Michelin commander or do the Spanish measure differently than me? Anyone with 1st hand info, much appreciated.
  14. jasonm.
    I think mine does similar. IF I hit the front brake hard. Tends to track whatever groove there might be in the pavement...sometimes. I put in new wheel bearings...no change.
  15. jasonm.
    I think he is saying ...2nd gear is shot on his '83 and wants to swap engines and not split cases.
  16. jasonm.
    use only MOLY grease. At least once a year. AND wipe off the excess that oozes out
  17. jasonm.
    I have a 1200 slide assy. w/spring. I think I took this almost new slide out 20 years ago before the"wrecker" came. if someone needs a 1200 slide PM me. The slides are different only by the "vent hole".
  18. jasonm.
    sounds like a wheel beariing or possibly but less likely swing-arm bearing. Note: the right bearing is a ball bearing while theleft is a roller type. The roller is less likely to go bad and can be greased.
  19. jasonm.
    I just found a bunch of 1N4004 diodes in my cabinet. These are the same but higher PIV rating. I did note in my "book" 1N4 series is a 1 amp diode. While the stocker looked like the higher rated barrel type ones. Were the numbers readable on the originals...or did you bother too look?
  20. jasonm.
    There are stickers on the bike that tell you the proper pressure in the tires. Under the side covers usually. But my rule is for any bias tire on a bike...front 20% less than max. listed on the sidewall of the tire and rear 10% less than the max. listed when riding solo.
  21. jasonm.
    wow...now my electrically charged brain is working overtime. 1N4001...YOU SAY. I probably have dozens of those. Something for the future... Oh look... I just found a bunch of 1N4004 diodes in my cabinet. These are the same but higher PIV rating.
  22. jasonm.
    Always remove the spark plugs immendiately when this happens. Then look at them and hit the starter...do you have spark? Or quicker, just carry spare plugs and disconnect from old and connect to spare, hold it against the head...is there spark? No spark it's wires caps or other electrical. Spark Yes...it's carbs too rich.
  23. jasonm.
    AS it is, I always remove the pumkin to grease the Ujoint splines at tire changing time. So also greasing the "other end" is not a biggie. Vmax is always an option. But I like the lower RPMs the stock Venture turns. But didn't someone say(sell) here you needed a shim/spacer for the Vmax rear ? Swap just the gears? you make that sound easy. I have torn thru engines. I am not a novice on such things. But rear drive gear swaps require seals and shimmiing. Which I have done before. Just trying for the simplest replacement in very good condition...as close to stock as possible.
  24. jasonm.
    Hey Squeeze. Well, after consulting with a few OLD Yamaha mechanics who went to training for Ventures and FJRs, and using common sense. It was agreed. Your way is not truly the best or the way it's done at the factory. At least regarding the NEW type seal. The seal not only keeps the oil in, it also HOLDS the large end of the shaft in the spline socket at a specific(proper) depth. Determiined by how far you press it in. I found PVC pipe that set this perfectly. If I did it your way, put the shaft in the U-joint 1st, then put the "pumkin" on...you lose the correct depth of engagement of the splines in the pumpkin. Especially with the new type seal. The new seal has a "sharp" edge towards the pumpkin and a rounded edge towards the shaft.The NEW seal after being set on the shaft, is to be pushed into the "socket" approx. 5mm or so in depth from the entry of the spline socket. This can be checked by installing the large washer and snap ring. The washer should be flush or up to 4 mm recessed into the socket. This keeps proper spring tension and depth. "This NEW seal is not to be greased before installation into the "socket" or ever removed unless it fails for some reason". You gain nothing by removing it and the shaft on a 1300. AND If not set deep and "square" enough ...the spring puts pressure on the Ujoint and causes "wobbling and hammering of the drive shaft". This will not cause any failures and likely would not be noticed while driving. BUT, It's not what Yamaha intended. I know you are going to say..."The 1200s have the spring but no seal. What's this wobbling and hammering crap"?... But this is what I was told. And it all made sense to me. Especially when you consider the 1200s had their shaft issues. I thought you should know what multiple Yamaha techs and managers told me...... And now my tire is on order. Thanks.
  25. jasonm.
    If you are using dino oil, then use 20w50. There are many studies that prove in our engines...due to the tranny design. That 20w50 gets cut down to 20w40 in the 1st 800 miles. The next 800 miles it is then 20w30 and so on... While many synthetics get cut down at less than half that rate. Amsoil and Mobil1 to name a few. I use Mobil1 20w50 in both my bikes. Both shift buttery smooth. Also if a motorcycle synthetic makes your clutch slip. Then your clutch was on it's way out anyway. Don't blame the oil. Clutches in the Ventures are good for about 50-60k before serious slippage shows up. 1st signs are 4th and 5th gear power roll ons from 70 or so and when you hit 4500 or 5000(torque peak)...the tach goes up but you don't move as expected. Again , don't blame the oil. Now, if you bought a low mileage 1st gen recently. Maybe that owner was not a touring person and just rode short hops. That will wear the clutch faster than a touring rider. FYI-Some synthetics are crap...a lot of hype and nothing to back up their claims. There are 2 oils out there with a "color" in their name. These were noted in tests a few years ago as simply crap.
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