jasonm.

Since my 87 has gone to the grave yard . I have some shims I can donate. Any particular sizes you need ?

Thank you....I wish someone had recorded it... it was a truly unbelievable thing. Due to trying to avoid "stuff", a stopped car on the interstate highway watching another car that lost its wheel, myself traveling down a moderate hill(many in my area), I simply applied Modified brakes w/FJR 320mm rotors so hard that I did a stoppie . I almost got it stopped but tapped a car that succeeded in completing my acrobatic flip(butt over tea kettle) and twist. It was so slow the car simply moved before I landed. The car did not even have a dent in the bumper at all...the whole incident was slow motion. It would have been worse w/o the extra braking power. Spare parts include NEW cam cover gaskets, many shims, perfect instrument panel, turn signals, unused new windshield and mufflers from parts bike and more. Obviously items I acquired over the last 31 years . Just think of something and email me. jsmthefix@optimum.net I bought a different low miles 1300.....FJR it has ABS

Unfortunately my '87 Royale with 31 years of me in the seat and 114k got totaled . I did not get hurt at all. ATGATT. It was somewhat of a freak accident. I let the insurance company take the bike away because I "might" have had a bend at the steering neck and I did not want to rebuild my 87 because the insurance company gave me enough $$ to go modern with ABS. I say "might" ...it was and low speed with big damages, forks and more and I am too tired/old to put it back together. If I described the accident you would not believe it. The parts I have have been my spares from 86 parts bike for years . I have an almost complete 86 parts bike and carried these items everywhere with me...just in case- ...Ignitors, multiple vacuum advancers, turn signals, carb slides and much more. Let me know what you are looking for, Contact me at jsmthefix@optimum.net ..........If you guys don't need or want,,,,then it's ebay.

I took an early ride. With 1 oz. The imbalance is no better and somewhat worse the more I go past the trigger speed. Previously it would get to a point of too fast to be perceived as bad. In my case this was a dream for my front tire but had to try. I have a spare wheel and will be getting a new tire, NOT DLOP. Maybe I am a minority. I stated this many years ago- I believe the beads act as a damper creating their own force , the imbalance not truly being corrected . With my original wheel, Counteract suggested I use 2oz. because spin balancer said 1.5oz. Now with 2oz. it's poor at Montana , W.Va. speeds . I am likely removing the beads. Cannot ride with a speed governor on the bike.

I have owned the same Venture Royale for more than 30 years. Approx. 28 years ago I did all of this delinking in 1 week. One of the 1st things was delinking the brakes. It's a simple volumetric law. You running 2 calipers instead of One . You must use a larger master for proper feel and power. I got new early 90's FZR1000. Bore is at least 16mm. Plus ON 1300's the left and right calipers are different bores, and I got calipers from and 90 FJ1200 to make things equal. But they needed to be shimmed(washered) for perfect alignment to the rotors. Put in HH pads.The brakes are more powerful & controllable. Lastly I put SS lines on. With all my mods to suspension , brakes , engine and more. I ride with Ducati and other sport riders...they envy me. It's the best 800# sport bike out there. No chicken strips on my tires. Presently have 113k miles on it...dynos at 93hp.

I put in "counteract" beads tonight and removed the weights as recommended. Counteract, which are glass pellets that look significantly smaller than your video or picture you show(cowpuc) . Counteract virtually same as "GlassBeads" for sand blasting. These are extremely tiny, and putting thru the air valve was not difficult....simply tap, tap the rim next to the air valve with a 1/4" id hose , the bottle attached to hose. Yes it took me minutes to do it. When I test in the morning I hope the bike rides better that it has in years. This is the 2nd front tire on this bike to show have this issue. Yes it's the rim that is most of the imbalance. This is proved because the weights end up in the same spot, give or take and inch, every time. The wheel bearings are new. Thus I have eliminated worn replaceable items that might be the cause. Also feeling of imbalance is a thing mostly felt in the front. Rear tire suspension has the ability to soak up imbalance more. FYI- R1 runs on radials tires. Far better made than the bias ply type, I ,we are running on. I will let you know how things go. Thank you.

I have owned the same Venture Royale for more than 30 years. Approx. 28 years ago I did all of this delinking in 1 week. One of the 1st things was delinking the brakes. It's a simple volumetric law. You running 2 calipers instead of One . You must use a larger master for proper feel and power. I got new early 90's FZR1000. Bore is at least 16mm. Plus ON 1300's the left and right calipers are different bores, and I got calipers from and 90 FJ1200 to make things equal. But they needed to be shimmed(washered) for perfect alignment to the rotors. Put in HH pads.The brakes are more powerful & controllable. Lastly I put SS lines on. With all my mods to suspension , brakes , engine and more. I ride with Ducati and other sport riders...they envy me. It's the best 800# sport bike out there. No chicken strips on my tires...

I find this funny that some people don't go " that fast", aka go over the speed limit. Sometimes you need to gas it for whatever reason. A few states have 75mph speed limits or more. So a tire that , especially the front feeling out of balance at 80 is an issue. I just put the counteract beads in tonight due to an 80+mph issue. I will see if it corrects it in the morning. Yes it was spin balanced repeatedly. It's a dunlop, Dunlop won't help because you ain't supposed to go that fast ...even with a tire rated for 130mph. This is my last DLOP. ..........FYI- beads will not correct a lateral weight issue, aka left-right.

you are saying this should work for my needs using only one 1 oz. bag as they say on the site for my 120 front tire ? I bought 2 - 1 oz. bags

My tire has been spun balanced has 1.5oz. on it, but when doing fast highway passing I get an imbalance , aka VIBE at 85mph. This is a Dunlop E3. Yes , the tire is round. Just obviously not perfect in every way. I got Counteract and I am about to install "counteract" in my front tire and remove the weights. Reply if anyone can truly confirm this will counteract the vibes...do you go fast enough to confirm ? FYI- I don't always travel at these speeds, but It's helpful if this "COUNTERACT" is a cure. Their site says only need only 1oz. of their stuff for the 120 front tire.

I have done the wire jumpers. Works great . The pics etc were helpful. But why did you remove the instruments the "hard way" ? Yamaha made this bike easy to service. I got my instruments out in less than 10 minutes. (1) remove windshield, (2) remove headlight, then LOOK there are 2 bolts, 1 left and 1 right of the wiring cluster and instruments. Any size hands can do this. Just need a 1/4" drive 10" extension and 10mm socket and a good light. To reinstall put a nut inside the socket to push the bolt out to catch the threads and possibly use a magnet touching socket to steady things. Cheers

Because I wired my 4 LED driving lights to the head light harness 2- 10w to low(20 watts) beam power wire ,& 2-10w to high(20 watts)... ..I never got headlamp out. Just the warning "headlamp issue red led indicator" + LCD symbol. You say jumper the reed switches. " Eliminate by shorting so they never open ? Reed switches where ever they exist ...wish I knew. I have spare instrument panel. Hope the reed switch is easy to find there?

Got my LED from superbrights. I rewired RLU wires because the load resistor causes a slight pulse at idle and requires 2000 rpm to get full brightness. SAD TO SAY -- bypass of RLU not working for my '87 Royale. FYI- there is no green/white...it's green/red shown stated later post. Did exactly as described. My warning indicator still pop up for headlamp. I have 30+ years working on electronics stuff... I guess- will put it back to stock and use load resistor.

Plus i always have used synthetic gear oil. Usually mobil1 75/140

there is a "dust hub seal" around the splines of the wheel. 1J7-25319-01-00. If this is bad you will lose grease. Every tire change my splines a still greasy. I use Sta-lube synthetic Caliper/brake grease , has moly, graphite and teflon + other friction inhibitors. My splines are good after 30 years and 100k miles. I talked to Bob, he said the "rear drives" run hot. Yes some do and others don't. My original did run hot since day one, enough to scare you when changing the gear oil or possibly burn your hand just touching the drive assy.. ...but at 90k there was slight slop in ring vs. pinion gears. So I got a low mileage replacement. . The replacement does NOT run hot at all .

getting in on this late. You can remove some seat foam yourself if you have the tools. A sanding disc on a cordless drill. The seat cover is just stapled. So you need a good electric stapler to shoot 1/4" depth staples. The driver section is NOT very deep. So maybe the Gel pads you can buy could be used rather that the stock foam. FYI it's a somewhat messy job. Wear a dust mask.

Steal the rubbers from cheap ngk. Mine ran great with ngk till bike got hot and they intenally opened after just 2000 miles

Torque on almost all casing bolts is 87in/lbs. reason the crack ,there is you have thinner than normal casting. Do not over torque bolts.

I have 102k w/original stator. People tell me it's because I ride hiway and backroads, no city, it's a touring bike...bike running cooler and charging more than many other riders. Good luck

Crack in casing....put on side stand, Clean it remove, cover and the inner casing paint...yes your insides are painted. Use acetone, rough up the surface with #40 making the crack obvious. Make sure all it bone dry non-oily. Now your choice... JB Qwik weld or Permatex ultra. I personally like JB Qwik Weld for cracks. Or you can try from the outside

I must give you all my experiences with Yamaha Venture caps for the past 30 years I have owned my 87 VR. 1st My local shop sells NGK for $5 each or less. NGKs are cheap...something you don't want to hear. I have had numerous ones simply go bad. Investigating to find the resistance went infinite, totally OPEN= useless. 2nd your original caps are testable an rebuildable. Use a good straight head screw-driver that fits tightly where the sparkplug(you'll see, get reading glasses)) enters. Unscrew it...And what comes out is a small brass washer, resistor and spring(order stated may not be correct), remember the order in which these items came out. The brass washer IS VERY SMALL gets corroded, Clean it and the spring ends with 1500# or 2000# paper. FYI- The resistor should not be sanded...because the shorter it gets INCREASES resistance. Clean with nothing more than a metal polish. If this does not correct resistance that is too high buy a replacement. Yamaha Standard is 10k + - 1k

I had a travelcade for 20+ years. They changed their name to Saddlemen and now make mostly H-D seats. You must know if you find one of these Travelcades...that have the best foam BUT the seat pan way back on mine was fiberglass because of patent laws and they put a rubber edging to prevent it cutting thru the vinyl . But It was just 4 years before mine had issues with vinyl cuts. But repaired the tears yearly with Chamois cloth. The travelcade foam will fit an original plastic seat pan...the trick is finding a good cover.

FYI- 1st gen the darn base gaskets often come loose if you over oil the filter. K&N sells the gasket #09970 . ~$10. Also you MUST use a sealing grease to seal that gasket to the bottom on the air box. Some of you are probably saying ...."what?" It's a fact this filter never seals completely w/o using K&N sealing grease or hi-temp possibly waterproof grease. I have had my filter for 28 years and 94k miles and had to replace it because I accidentally stepped on it....OOPS. I have also seen filters with low miles and the gasket just comes off. The above is fact. My latest was half off when I got it new last year. K&N was nice and sent me a gasket no charge. When I cleaned the base and installed it. Then I put gasket face down on table sticky up, then filter engaged and a few books on filter for hours to insure is stuck. FYI- cleaning I have used Simple Green 2 times... it's strong stuff for degreasing. Works w/o issue

you have a bike that has been sitting....BAD battery is always the 1st thing to check..... With ignition off. MUST have 12.7 volts. .....ON just under 12 is okay